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Mr E posted:Bandai is going to have a distributor in the states next year I think. Bandai already has a distributor, Bluefin. The problem is Revell has the exclusive license to sell Star Wars models in the United States so Bandai can't send them through Bluefin. Revell cried to Disney, who in turn yelled at Bandai. Bandai has leaned on their distributors and some prominent retailers to stop shipping Star Wars kits to the US.
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Dec 10, 2016 08:11
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They werent too hard to come by on ebay, shipping was a bit steep but cheaper than amazon in most cases. Anyway, Bluefin is importing Bandai Star Wars kits again. You can preorder the Rogue One 1/72 X-Wing on Amazon. Quoting part of their press release: quote:Bluefin will launch the Bandai Hobby Star Wars model line in early December with the 1/72 and 1/144 scale Red Squadron X-Wing Starfighter Special Set, which features the star fighter depicted in Rogue One: A Star Wars Story. The kit will be initially available from Amazon.com in time for the film’s North American wide release in December. http://www.jediinsider.com/index.php?catid=8&itemid=18054
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Dec 10, 2016 09:48
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Neddy Seagoon posted:Bandai's Star Wars kits are amazing, but goddamn hard to import for a decent price now because they're only meant to have a Japanese license and Revell sobbed to Papa Disney about them making far and away better kits or something. I just buy them from Japanese sellers on Amazon UK, they come with free shipping.
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Dec 10, 2016 12:43
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When a 1/32 Star Wars anything is launched, let me know.
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Dec 10, 2016 13:48
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Gewehr 43 posted:When a 1/32 Star Wars anything is launched, let me know. You could always go for DeAgostini's giant studio-scale Millenium Falcon. Only set you back about $1200. http://www.model-space.com/us/build-millennium-falcon.html
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Dec 10, 2016 13:54
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Dragon are supposed to be doing a 1/35 AT-AT, but I can't find any release date (or recent news)
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Dec 10, 2016 19:22
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 Almost finished with my 1/700 Scharnhorst, just have to do rigging and wave effects now.
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Dec 11, 2016 07:25
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I love old battleships that are just mountains of curved greebles on top of a hull.
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Dec 11, 2016 08:23
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Baronjutter posted:I love old battleships that are just mountains of curved greebles on top of a hull. I genuinely want to find a good source of cheap-rear end battleship kits, just to toss into a bag o' kitbash 'n greebs.
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Dec 11, 2016 09:58
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Baronjutter posted:I love old battleships that are just mountains of curved greebles on top of a hull. As opposed to new battleships such are _________.  Edit: is it just me or has swiping on Android gotten a lot worse lately? Blue Footed Booby fucked around with this message at 12:53 on Dec 12, 2016 |
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Dec 11, 2016 14:15
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My entire layout now has TWO (2) trees! 
Baronjutter fucked around with this message at 20:59 on Dec 11, 2016 |
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Dec 11, 2016 20:47
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Baronjutter posted:My entire layout now has TWO (2) trees!
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Dec 11, 2016 21:10
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If I were to live in a city with two trees, I'd hope they looked as nice as yours. Good job!
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Dec 11, 2016 21:40
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So I bought a few Gundam models whilst in Japan in October as I'm a sucker for giant robot things, after building my first one and seeing how crazy different they look with custom paint jobs, I'm thinking of trying my hand at it. I don't have the room to build a nice area for airbrushing and have been looking up all the techniques for paint with acrylics and enamels by brush. It's no something I want to rush, it'll be mostly time spent whilst the wife is working on weekends. AmI barking up a wrong tree with hand painting? I was going to just buy a few cheap models to practice on prior to doing the gundam ones and I'm not going all out with the crazy weathering just yet, just basically flat colors with panel wash.
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Dec 12, 2016 00:42
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You can definitely hand-paint Gunpla (lots of big flat surfaces, though, so be careful with strokes showing), and you can get grunt suit HGs for $10-15 depending on where you look, so they're cheap enough for you to not feel bad about loving up. For techniques specific to painting Gunpla (or plamo in general), you probably want to ask in the Gunpla thread specifically: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3678195
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Dec 12, 2016 00:51
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Pierzak posted:Bullshit, it's the same tree from different angles. There are... TWO trees!  
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Dec 12, 2016 00:53
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Lemon-Lime posted:You can definitely hand-paint Gunpla (lots of big flat surfaces, though, so be careful with strokes showing), and you can get grunt suit HGs for $10-15 depending on where you look, so they're cheap enough for you to not feel bad about loving up. Totally missed that thread, cheers.
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Dec 12, 2016 01:12
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Baronjutter posted:There are... TWO trees! Wait, did I just invent a way to make a forest on a train table look bigger? Has anyone played with mirrors to that effect?
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Dec 12, 2016 01:13
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Puddin posted:So I bought a few Gundam models whilst in Japan in October as I'm a sucker for giant robot things, after building my first one and seeing how crazy different they look with custom paint jobs, I'm thinking of trying my hand at it. Get yourself an HGBF Hi-Mock. It's a nice cheap Gundam kit with big smooth surfaces you can practice painting on.
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Dec 12, 2016 07:51
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On the Millenium Falcon. Revells Rerelease of the Fine Molds 1/72 Falcon is pretty neat and it's steadily getting cheaper. I payed about a 190 Euro for mine. 900+ parts 
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Dec 12, 2016 14:16
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Your post made Google close-ups of that kit, and holy god that's a lot of greeble. In the process, I stumbled on a bunch of guys identifying greeble in a large scale (possibly production?) model. Example:  
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Dec 12, 2016 18:10
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That's a lot more panzers than I thought!
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Dec 12, 2016 18:31
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I love really greebly physical models.
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Dec 12, 2016 18:33
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Baronjutter posted:I love really greebly physical models. I don't.  (There's another sprue and a half of those.)
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Dec 12, 2016 19:18
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Lemon-Lime posted:I don't. Every single one of those will snap as you remove it from the sprue, i guarantee it.
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Dec 12, 2016 19:22
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That's why I like tanks more than cars, working with track links is infinitely preferable to the million greebly bits on the undercarriage.
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Dec 12, 2016 19:49
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Raskolnikov38 posted:Every single one of those will snap as you remove it from the sprue, i guarantee it. You need to saw these off essentially. MiniArt kits have lot of parts like these and even finer. It's no fun.
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Dec 12, 2016 23:27
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Ensign Expendable posted:That's why I like tanks more than cars, working with track links is infinitely preferable to the million greebly bits on the undercarriage. That's from the Bandai Y-Wing.
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Dec 12, 2016 23:47
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Greyhawk posted:You need to saw these off essentially. MiniArt kits have lot of parts like these and even finer. It's no fun. Why not use flush cutters? I used them to cut all the stuff off the sprues when making the Hi-Mock and it makes perfect cuts without any stress on the part. Mine are Xuron, maybe not this exact model, but something close - https://smile.amazon.com/Xuron-410-...n+flush+cutters Like many things in the 'tools' category, I have found that when it comes to cutters, you usually do get what you pay for, and while these are a bit pricey, they do a fantastic job and don't get out of alignment after the first 4 uses. I have about a dozen different Xuron pliers and cutters, and never use the cheap stuff I started out with (Lowes combo pack of some sort) anymore. I think I relegated them to the garage or something actually.
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Dec 13, 2016 06:24
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Symetrique posted:They werent too hard to come by on ebay, shipping was a bit steep but cheaper than amazon in most cases. Oh nice, wanna get that A-wing built at some point: 
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Dec 13, 2016 06:36
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Cross-posting from the Historicals thread. I'm doing my first "proper" airbrushed vehicles, all of them 1/48 Tamiya model kits that will be used for wargaming DAK vs various allied forces in North Africa. I'm still struggling with the airbrush, but the results are so worth it compared to painting with a brush. This time I well all in, and airbrushed black shadows after priming, then white highlights. Once dried I gave them first a darker dunkelgelb and then a lighter highlight version of dunkelgelb. I like how they turned out this far, so I gave them a coat of Tamiya spray can gloss varnish, and then decals. Next step would be another coat of gloss varnish, and then go on with the weathering, right?  ...well, not all of them from Tamiya, maybe. 
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Dec 15, 2016 22:02
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Yup, decals should be coated with gloss varnish before you do washes and weathering.
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Dec 15, 2016 22:05
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I was gifted these from an in-law: But the in-law did not know I have already built these three models.  The perils of keeping our hobby secret, I suppose. Does anyone want to trade for these? There are a few Metal Earth kits I'd like and I figure if someone wants these they can purchase the others for me and I'll mail you these (or the one or two you want, as it happens). The ones I'd like are the t-rex, the triceratops, and the Hubble space telescope. (The Hubble in particular is a deal since it's 7 bucks, while the Black Pearl and Enterprise go for at least $13 most places.)
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Dec 17, 2016 02:26
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Tiny train progress, about 10% of the layout is now over 50% done! Testing out how it looks to use a grass mat as the base. Pretty satisfied with the results. Stuff is pinned down for now, need more trees, and some new rails before I glue everything in place. Also need to repaint the cliff face to look more rock-y.   Click for big. Castle is burned out because I lost the roof.
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Dec 17, 2016 13:16
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N17R4M posted:Castle is burned out because I lost the roof. It's a nice touch, actually.
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Dec 18, 2016 00:31
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I got inspired by the pictures in this thread and picked up a Lambda Shuttle from Star Wars. Had one frustrating bit where part of the cockpit broke, then when I was trying to solder it, it broke in another spot. I was able to use masking tape to hold it in shape and then epoxy it together, so everything turned out fine. Also, soldering this stuff did not work at all. Maybe silver solder and a torch might work, but neither regular electrical solder nor solder paste would stick at all. Before I built it, I figured it would be loose and rattle around, but it is actually very solid with the only rattly bits being the two front body mounted laser cannons.
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Dec 18, 2016 17:17
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Looks pretty good! I never had much patience for those metal puzzle things; I managed to make a biplane that looked good, but then I tried the AT-AT and getting the legs into the body, building the feet, and folding all the tiny metal tabs was just an exercise in frustration.
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Dec 18, 2016 17:37
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Just for the heck of it, I tried some Tamiya panel line accent on that shuttle. It flowed well enough, but really killed the accents of the model. The reflections on the panel lines really bring out the details and using that black accent killed all the reflections. I did paint the windshield black, but other than that, the natural metal finish looked the best for everything else.
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Dec 18, 2016 19:33
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 Made this sand trooper as a present for a friend. I already built a death star trooper for myself a while back. Unlike that one, this didn't want to keep ahold of it's gun.  "Why? Why did this happen?" Had to glue it. Unrelated: I'm modifying a Nerf Maverick. Have some alclad gunmetal on the way. I've seen people say they use Tamiya spray gloss black for the undercoat. Also some people say they got good results with Tamiya acrylic black, which I actually have on hand. I'm sure this has been discussed before but I can't seem to find it, so please forgive me for re-asking: will using an acrylic undercoat compromise durability enough that it's worth buying some lacquer black? Keeping in mind that this won't just be sitting on a shelf. Blue Footed Booby fucked around with this message at 02:44 on Dec 20, 2016 |
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Dec 20, 2016 02:40
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The lacquer would definitely be tougher. If fragility is a concern though, I'd be more worried about the Aclad. The finish of Alclad is delicate as gently caress. I don't really know anything about painting Nerf guns, but if I was doing it I'd probably go with a rattle-can metallic color, and then a tough topcoat.
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Dec 20, 2016 04:50
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