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Shadin posted:Yeah I did a test run of their ultra matte primer (no paint) and it worked awesome. Cheap and fast base coating colors are enticing since I don't have an airbrush and don't want to pay the price for GW sprays. I haven't, I don't tend to strio things once I paint them. I doubt they'd be any easier to strip than any other primer though.
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Dec 11, 2016 21:43
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PantsOptional posted:Man, three models into an Iron Warriors 30k army is a bad time to discover that you don't particularly enjoy doing hazard stripes. I'm sure that they'll be like second nature eventually but oh boy. It didn't help that I started off on a Contemptor and realized that my plan of having stripes on the shoulders looked too garish. I ended up painting them black to be more like the infantry pauldrons but it was a bit of a morale killer. If you like throwing money at problems, this site apparently has nice stencils acc. to mini goons. They also come in normal painting stencils and adhesive ones for airbrushing.
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Dec 11, 2016 21:49
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PantsOptional posted:Man, three models into an Iron Warriors 30k army is a bad time to discover that you don't particularly enjoy doing hazard stripes. I'm sure that they'll be like second nature eventually but oh boy. It didn't help that I started off on a Contemptor and realized that my plan of having stripes on the shoulders looked too garish. I ended up painting them black to be more like the infantry pauldrons but it was a bit of a morale killer. As a tip from someone who has painted a lot of hazard stripes: prime/paint with a solid yellow (I use Averland Sunset), hit it with matte varnish, then draw (yes, DRAW) the lines on using a micron pen. Preferably .005 but an .01 will work too. Fill in the lines with black paint, faint highlight of grey along one edge of each line, then wash it with brown, sepia, or flesh wash (your choice). It's quick and easy and looks good, particularly if you go that extra mile and add some rust effects or chipping/battle damage. You can, if you want, add additional layers of yellow, but this isn't strictly necessary.
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Dec 11, 2016 22:21
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X-Post from the 30k thread:ijyt posted:Finished up my first squad, so have a dump! Though I'm pretty mad the varnishes ruined the base rims. e: fixed links ijyt fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Dec 11, 2016 |
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Dec 11, 2016 22:23
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So I decided to paint the face to the side because the front of the ship unfortunately has a giant semicircle which makes it look like a smiling anime face if I were to put it dead center. I will probably need to use some pale skin color to make the mouth stand out more. Also gaze at my phallic dew bottles and rudimentary bunny. Freehanding was never my strong suit and I preferred to do simple curvy patterns (squiggly lines) on capes or other larger surface areas to cover that deficiency.    I need to paint the cockpit green. How could I forget? 
Chill la Chill fucked around with this message at 23:29 on Dec 11, 2016 |
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Dec 11, 2016 23:15
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Slimnoid posted:As a tip from someone who has painted a lot of hazard stripes: prime/paint with a solid yellow (I use Averland Sunset), hit it with matte varnish, then draw (yes, DRAW) the lines on using a micron pen. Preferably .005 but an .01 will work too. Fill in the lines with black paint, faint highlight of grey along one edge of each line, then wash it with brown, sepia, or flesh wash (your choice). It's quick and easy and looks good, particularly if you go that extra mile and add some rust effects or chipping/battle damage. You can, if you want, add additional layers of yellow, but this isn't strictly necessary. This is more or less my exact process (using pencil, not micron pen). It's just a long process is all, especially for dozens of space barbies.
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Dec 11, 2016 23:37
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Chill la Chill posted:So I decided to paint the face to the side because the front of the ship unfortunately has a giant semicircle which makes it look like a smiling anime face if I were to put it dead center. I will probably need to use some pale skin color to make the mouth stand out more. Also gaze at my phallic dew bottles and rudimentary bunny. Freehanding was never my strong suit and I preferred to do simple curvy patterns (squiggly lines) on capes or other larger surface areas to cover that deficiency. I'm loving D.Va ship, keep it up!
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Dec 11, 2016 23:46
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Anyone have some guides / recommendations on how to green stuff fur? My next D&D character is riding a dog for a mount but the closest model I could find is a dwarf riding a bear. Want to green stuff the ears to be more perky, and a long tail instead of a little bear stub. But I absolutely suck at everything green stuff. I was thinking maybe I'd just roll a noodle shape out for the general shape of the tail, then drape more, smaller noodles over it for the fur? One of my biggest problems with this sort of thing is simply how do you store it while it hardens so that one side doesnt get flattened or otherwise misshapen.
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Dec 12, 2016 14:35
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Xposting from historicals, mainly to support Pink Power. Sorry for the fuzzy pic. 
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Dec 12, 2016 16:04
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Hell yeah, now get a bunch of flags and do the stug 3!
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Dec 12, 2016 16:08
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Sab669 posted:Anyone have some guides / recommendations on how to green stuff fur? I'm not a good sculptor by any means but to get a fur texture you typically will get the shape then pull down small sections of it to get a fur texture, like this (image from Google)  There are a lot of tutorials out there for sculpting fur, on Youtube and elsewhere. As for storage, you can put a pin in it and keep it separate while it's drying and then assemble it later?
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Dec 12, 2016 16:31
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To sculpt a tail, I would first put in a pin where I want the tail to go, shaped to be a a little smaller than the eventual tail you'd want. Then, I'd sculpt a very rough core of the tail. There's no detail here, just the bulk volume you want for the tail. Let this harden. Then, cover this with greenstuff again and sculpt the fur onto the core. Without a solid core, you'd start deforming the shape of the tail as you're adding detail.
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Dec 12, 2016 16:43
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Yea, if you are building up an entire piece, you definitely need to do it in stages. Make the general shape, let it cure, bulk it out, let it cure, detail, let if cure. Otherwise it is a nightmare and you will gently caress it up. You can also use other materials for the core this way - when I am sculpting something from scratch I usually use a wire armature, and then use tinfoil to bulk out the shape. So only the top layer is really greenstuff.
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Dec 12, 2016 16:46
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goodness posted:Where were you when I posted pictures about them multiple times asking for advice : I've found that Krylon is just fine, but it requires spending a lot of time shaking it before putting it on. I'm incredibly finicky about maintaining details and the Krylon primer has been good to me, but its worth the 10-15 minutes of solid shaking before putting it on. Then do short, quick bursts so you don't put too much on at once (against what it says on the can). Your arm will hurt, but your wallet wont.
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Dec 13, 2016 00:42
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Frobbe posted:
crossposting some Dropfleet Scourge
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Dec 13, 2016 08:33
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ExtraNoise posted:I've found that Krylon is just fine, but it requires spending a lot of time shaking it before putting it on. I'm incredibly finicky about maintaining details and the Krylon primer has been good to me, but its worth the 10-15 minutes of solid shaking before putting it on. Then do short, quick bursts so you don't put too much on at once (against what it says on the can). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96wlk9t9ZdE
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Dec 13, 2016 13:59
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PantsOptional posted:Also I don't know if this exists yet, but there needs to be a word for when you've made (or in this case painted) something that seems fine to everyone else but you're not satisfied with it. It is often referred to as the curse of the artist. You make a thing to the best of your ability. In the process you get better. So now the thing you did isn't your best. Its a never ending cycle.
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Dec 13, 2016 16:04
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I have seen a real product like this that attaches to a Sawzall. I will buy one if i ever buy a Sawzall.
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Dec 13, 2016 16:12
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PantsOptional posted:Also I don't know if this exists yet, but there needs to be a word for when you've made (or in this case painted) something that seems fine to everyone else but you're not satisfied with it. It should exist if it doesn't. This is the pain every artist feels
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Dec 13, 2016 17:09
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Are we sure there isn't a German compound noun for it?
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Dec 13, 2016 17:16
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dexefiend posted:I have seen a real product like this that attaches to a Sawzall. http://mixkwik.com/ I have this it is fantastic
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Dec 13, 2016 17:43
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signalnoise posted:http://mixkwik.com/ Oh my god, they made an attachment for shaking Vallejo sized bottles?! <rev up my sawzall at 1130pm to shake some paint waking up 2 kids under the age of 4 and one enraged wife>
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Dec 13, 2016 18:07
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Any Goons know how well Dettol reacts with FW resin? Got a couple of pieces I want to scrub clean but I'm scared of damaging the models as they're the limited edition 30k characters.
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Dec 13, 2016 19:28
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SteelMentor posted:Any Goons know how well Dettol reacts with FW resin? Got a couple of pieces I want to scrub clean but I'm scared of damaging the models as they're the limited edition 30k characters. I've not heard of any horror stories, but pop in some off-cuts and see what happens to them after a few days. Safest way to be sure.
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Dec 13, 2016 19:38
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Finished up a Manticore. Man oh man is this a cool model.    
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Dec 13, 2016 23:36
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My lgs put all their SWM hobby stuff on clearance so I just bought 38 jars of their weathering pigments for a dollar apiece. 
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Dec 14, 2016 00:13
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Weird round of batch painting this month had me painting 10 Ironsides Handgunners, an Empire Engineer, and a Warrior Priest. Glad they all had a fairly similar color palette! Not happy with the faces on the Ironsides though; the helmets and the angles, plus my brush crapping out really made the faces look pretty poor. I really like how the priest came out though. Anyway, here's my hams:      The Engineer:     They call him Two Hammers Mcree, on account of his two hammers:    
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Dec 14, 2016 01:54
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So I just got a fantasy/sci-fi mantic crazy box in and now have a big selection of skeletons/demons/lizardmen, etc. From a modeling perspective, is there anything I could do to tie all of these together for some sort of a starter army 'of the damned' for kings of war? I'm thinking skeletons and demons seem pretty straight forward but Is there anything I could do with the lizards to make them more demony? For that matter, anyone know anything about kings of war to tell me if I'm barking up the wrong tree?
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Dec 14, 2016 03:36
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Airbrush goons help! I've read all the info in the OP and dug all around the internet about airbrush things but I'm still spinning in circles trying to figure out what the right compressor is for the under $200 (preferably ~$150) range. Anyone have a recommendation? Quiet is important and compact is a big plus. Probably looking at an hour or so of use a couple days a week. Thanks! Edit: That warrior priest looks rad btw.
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Dec 14, 2016 03:44
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El_Pato posted:Airbrush goons help! I've read all the info in the OP and dug all around the internet about airbrush things but I'm still spinning in circles trying to figure out what the right compressor is for the under $200 (preferably ~$150) range. If you are patient and hunt eBay enough you might be able to do what I did and score a silentaire 20-A for $200 with an airbrush. Used, but seriously I can use it and the air brush will make more noise than the compressor. Just be prepared for an oily mess because they do not travel very well if you get one.
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Dec 14, 2016 04:39
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w00tmonger posted:So I just got a fantasy/sci-fi mantic crazy box in and now have a big selection of skeletons/demons/lizardmen, etc. Use extra demon/skeleton parts to mod the lizard dudes?
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Dec 14, 2016 04:49
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Coherent colors can go a long way. Definitely add extra undead bits to the shields and stuff, but if your minis have a consistent color scheme they'll naturally look good together.
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Dec 14, 2016 04:52
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Ezekiel_980 posted:If you are patient and hunt eBay enough you might be able to do what I did and score a silentaire 20-A for $200 with an airbrush. Used, but seriously I can use it and the air brush will make more noise than the compressor. Just be prepared for an oily mess because they do not travel very well if you get one. Well, found just that! Looks like an older model though? Box shape all around instead of the tapered top like the new ones. Anything to be concerned about or should I just pull the trigger? Edit: Did it. Hope this is an awesome deal as it sounds. Trusting you goons! Very excited to start spraying all the things though El_Pato fucked around with this message at 06:17 on Dec 14, 2016 |
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Dec 14, 2016 05:01
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El_Pato posted:Well, found just that! Looks like an older model though? Box shape all around instead of the tapered top like the new ones. Anything to be concerned about or should I just pull the trigger? I'd do it. Lucky I saw the post I was looking at the same one. I need an excuse not to spend the $ now
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Dec 14, 2016 05:13
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El_Pato posted:Well, found just that! Looks like an older model though? Box shape all around instead of the tapered top like the new ones. Anything to be concerned about or should I just pull the trigger? Bitchin! The white part is just a cover the internals, inside are all the same. when it arrives  DO NOT START IT! Go to the hardware store and get synthetic compressor oil(the synthetic is important regular will kill the compressor), some orange goo be gone spray and one of those trays you keep boots in during the winter. fill up the oil (it will likely take the entire container) and use the goo be gone to clean up the oil that is likely all over the outside from shipping.*edit* If when it arrives you need pictures let me know
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Dec 14, 2016 13:25
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I am a miniature painting beginner. Friend who does warhammer type stuff (not warhammer but mechs? dunno what it's called) gave me a few lessons and I'm into it, though not a mech guy. I have Mansions of Madness and Imperial Assault with some expansions. My paints are coming via mail in probably a week. Would it be okay to prime all my figures in the meantime? Is there anything bad about leaving them primed but not painted for weeks? (Even when I get the paints I'm not going to finish painting all of them for quite some time.) I'm just wondering if dust would accumulate and mess up the painting. Sorry if this is a dumb beginner question!
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Dec 14, 2016 14:10
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Fidel Castronaut posted:I am a miniature painting beginner. Friend who does warhammer type stuff (not warhammer but mechs? dunno what it's called) gave me a few lessons and I'm into it, though not a mech guy. I have Mansions of Madness and Imperial Assault with some expansions. My paints are coming via mail in probably a week. Would it be okay to prime all my figures in the meantime? Is there anything bad about leaving them primed but not painted for weeks? (Even when I get the paints I'm not going to finish painting all of them for quite some time.) I'm just wondering if dust would accumulate and mess up the painting. Sorry if this is a dumb beginner question!
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Dec 14, 2016 14:22
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Besides, you're not a proper mini painter until you have a pile of primed models that you swear you're going to get around to any day now.
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Dec 14, 2016 14:26
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Just don't be a dummy and prime a bunch with spraypaint and think "that looks dry to me surely" before placing them back foam only to find you have what looks like boogers stuck to inconvenient places all over your models
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Dec 14, 2016 14:28
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Fidel Castronaut posted:I'm just wondering if dust would accumulate and mess up the painting. Dust can totally accumulate if you leave your little guys out, but you can remove it with a can of compressed air. Better to just have some storage for them though.
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Dec 14, 2016 19:57
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