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I'd take em to a different shop and hope they aren't dicks, but drive as if you have tires from the Clinton admin on your car (aka hockey pucks) and buy new ones ASAP. Also, those barely look like snows to me (nowhere near enough siping, looks like most of it was in the tops of the tread blocks and they're worn down past that point) and what's the story with half your studs being missing and the other half not having any carbide sticking out?
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Dec 14, 2016 00:56
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InitialDave posted:Ok, if it's a Land Rover one, then there should be a seal where the pushrod from the servo actuates the master cylinder. So the master cylinder itself is not part of the vacuum seal. I've just been down to the garage to take the master off the servo I have for the Series 3 (it was very stuck on there), and it is like this. Aaah - I was assuming that there was always a seal as part of the servo assembly. I didn't realise that some setups would let the vacuum get into the end of the master cylinder. Working on the servo has made me also wonder if I should put a non-return valve in the vacuum line to the servo. It doesn't seem to have one as stock but I think most cars do now? edit - found the Saab catalogue and there is a brake booster seal as a separate item! (item 26)  So either mine is knackered or I'm a dick and have left it out while swapping the servo/master around over the years and have just been lucky that there was crud blocking that weep hole before now (or the master cyl i had before this one didn't have it) Its not a bad thing for me to swap over to the LR model anyway as it means I am actually using a commonly available and cheap and guaranteed working new part as opposed to an NLA 30 year old one. The adaptor plate that I have just bought looks much better than the one I made myself that is currently fitted too! Tomarse fucked around with this message at 01:17 on Dec 14, 2016 |
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Dec 14, 2016 01:07
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kastein posted:Also, those barely look like snows to me (nowhere near enough siping, looks like most of it was in the tops of the tread blocks and they're worn down past that point) and what's the story with half your studs being missing and the other half not having any carbide sticking out? I don't KNOW, but at a guess - We don't get seriously bad winters here, but we do tend to get one or two good snowfuckings every winter and they're not predictable. Most of the time these are on my car it's not cold enough to warrant them which I know isn't great for their longevity. It wouldn't surprise me if this set was worn enough to retire after this - their sixth - winter. These good snows do tend to love to target the weeks I have to travel, though, so having snow tires at all (and not having to chain up when the hypochondriacs close the passes) is definitely worth it. Last year it went from sunny to snow during the night before I had to drive over the mountains. I'm not risking it.
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Dec 14, 2016 01:09
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When you get new ones, I suggest reassessing whether you need studded tires. It sounds like a resounding no. Edit: And it's not their sixth winter, it's their seventeenth.
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Dec 14, 2016 01:11
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Javid posted:I have poo poo to do and public transport here is essentially nonexistent. Did you check both sides of the tire? Does the info match? Or do you see a longer number? If it does, then yes... those are at least 17 years old. Maybe 27, even. Likely 17. They don't look rotten at all, so they've been stored well, at least. What's the tire brand/model? I'm... kind of an idiot when it comes to getting the most life possible out of something, and I'm also broke, so I'd probably run them and just make sure to keep at least 1 spare with me. But that's on my own personal vehicle. They may be better than whatever all seasons you normally run, and will probably be better than actual summer tires. Replace them as soon as you can, and as Godholio said, it sounds like you really don't need studded anyway. Deceptor101 posted:So the car didn't come with a cigarette lighter, only a plastic thing to block the hole. The only thing we have been able to test is a car charger, but we've tried one that works in my car fine. I have a air compressor I could test too, but I know the more times you blow a fuse the worse things get. I could try looking around for grounds, nothing is aftermarket on this car other than the radio, so that might be a place to look. The negative is unfused, only the positive is fused. If you're looking at connectivity instead of voltage, you're going to see a dead short - you're basically feeding a tiny bit of voltage through whatever else is on that circuit, which passes through those devices and back to the negative connection somehow. Pull the fuse, set the meter to DC voltage, connect one probe to the positive wire (which goes to the center portion of the socket), the other probe to some other negative/ground source. Or try the negative going to the socket. TooMuchAbstraction posted:Noted. I'll want to find the corresponding switch in my car before I order anything, I think. Yup, the switches should be identical on all doors on your car. IIRC it's either a single wire, or a 2 wire plug. Swap the switch with the one from whatever door you use the least, though you can probably expect it to stick in the off position sometimes if that door really didn't get used much.
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Dec 14, 2016 07:33
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Some doorjamb switches are unique left vs right and some are unique front vs rear, and I've also seen driver door be unique from all others, but most are the same. It does look like the 03 Civic uses the same switch for all 4 though.
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Dec 14, 2016 17:55
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So speaking of studded snow tires, the ones I bought are babby's first ever snow tires. If I drive 75mph on dry pavement with them, how bad is that for the metal studs? My commute is 35 miles each way and the highways are usually pretty clear but the local roads are usually covered in ice.
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Dec 14, 2016 20:00
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It's probably not at all great for them, though they should be replaceable? Though it might be a  situation too, using studs on dry roads.
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Dec 14, 2016 20:05
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As long as you do it between November and April, in most US states that's legal. Double check yours though. Do your studs have carbide cores? Mine do, and have no problem with exactly what you said, I do 180 miles a day for work at speeds from 65 to 85mph depending on the speed of traffic and all that happens is my car sounds like a TIE fighter. They bite fine on ice and snow every morning going up the dirt road to civilization even so. You can tell if yours have carbide cores or not (most modern studs do) - if they have a little center tip that sticks out further than the metal cladding or the rubber around it, they're carbide. Doing a burnout or sliding around a corner will definitely break the carbide off, but it'll be exposed again within a few hundred to a few thousand miles when the metal cladding and rubber wears down around it.
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Dec 14, 2016 20:12
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kastein posted:Doing a burnout or sliding around a corner will definitely break the carbide off 
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Dec 14, 2016 20:23
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kastein posted:As long as you do it between November and April, in most US states that's legal. Double check yours though. https://rma.org/tire-safety/seasonal-driving-tips/studded-snow-tire-regulations My experience with studs is that they're really noisy and obnoxious on dry roads. They're useful if you absolutely have to drive at speed on actual ice for extended periods. I've learned to get along without them, as I didn't think they were worth it.
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Dec 14, 2016 20:48
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I live a ways down a hilly rutted single-lane dirt road in the woods. The town doesn't plow my road, that's on me. I have two choices, either park in the middle of the road in front of my neighbor's house, or park in the driveway and buy studded snow tires to put on my AWD/4wd vehicles, or there's a good chance I won't make it up the hill and get to work.InitialDave posted:Fit titanium ones if you're going to do this. I contacted a few chinese tire stud makers on alibaba a while ago and requested a quote on tire studs made with ferrocerium cores instead of carbide and all it got me was those fuckers deluging me with questions about how many carbide studs I wanted and how much I was willing to pay. Did they read my email? Apparently not. I still want my flint-cored tire studs 
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Dec 14, 2016 22:47
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How the heck do I size and pick out a truck topper/camper shell? I see used ones but I can't imagine that they're all interchangeable.
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Dec 15, 2016 05:49
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Keeping me up at night: how do you rotate tires on an AMG 6x6?
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Dec 15, 2016 07:40
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blk posted:Keeping me up at night: how do you rotate tires on an AMG 6x6? You buy all new ones because you're rich as gently caress and they probably dry rot before they wear enough to be an issue.
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Dec 15, 2016 07:46
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Just watching a Regular Car Reviews video on the Fox Body Mustang, and he's talking about Windsor 302 engines splitting down the middle, and bracing them to prevent that. Does anyone have any good quality high res pictures of either or both of those things happening?
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Dec 15, 2016 10:11
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No pics, but I remember it very much being an issue when you got past 300 HP and took it to high RPMs. IIRC, some people swore girdle braces fixed the issue, while others said there was no way to keep it from happening without going with a Mexico block (one of the later ones made in Mexico - larger bearings) or an aftermarket block. I've seen one that split with relatively mild power, it was just spun to the moon for an old school V8. It had the girdle. It's also been a good 15 years since I saw it, so I really don't remember much except it was a 91 or 92 5.0 with typical I/H/E, cam, some head work, and a different intake manifold (I want to say it was a Cobra IM?). This thread has some decent discussion on the topic, though one of the main posters in it is someone who makes aftermarket 302 blocks. He doesn't seem to be trying to sell anything, just trying to give info, in the few pages I read.
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Dec 15, 2016 10:43
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Deteriorata posted:https://rma.org/tire-safety/seasonal-driving-tips/studded-snow-tire-regulations Geographically  Having lived long stretches in WI and IL, I assumed tire studs were illegal in the US and possibly legal in the Fabled Canadas. Why the west Great Lakes bloc agreed on this is beyond me.
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Dec 15, 2016 15:28
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CharlieWhiskey posted:Geographically I'm totally in the same boat as you. I didn't realize studs were cool in that many states. Those poor bastards in the west side of the MI mitten could probably do with some with all the lake-effect bullshit they get. MN and northern WI is no joke either. Seeing that everything is illegal in IL and the roads are already mostly destroyed, seeing it gray doesn't really raise my eyebrows.
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Dec 15, 2016 15:35
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kastein posted:As long as you do it between November and April, in most US states that's legal. Double check yours though. In Indiana they're legal between Oct 1 and May 1. I'm glad I had them today. 4° out. snowed a few inches overnight, drove in it like it was nothing. Not sure what kind of studs I have though. They're silver though. They're these. CornHolio fucked around with this message at 15:45 on Dec 15, 2016 |
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Dec 15, 2016 15:42
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Why the gently caress does florida even have a law on wheel studs? I've never even seen an option to buy studded tires down here.
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Dec 16, 2016 07:00
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Cop Porn Popper posted:Why the gently caress does florida even have a law on wheel studs? I've never even seen an option to buy studded tires down here. Snowbirds.
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Dec 16, 2016 07:04
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:This thread has some decent discussion on the topic, though one of the main posters in it is someone who makes aftermarket 302 blocks. He doesn't seem to be trying to sell anything, just trying to give info, in the few pages I read. That was a neat read, thanks. Some bro-engineering dudes in there but the OP and another dude who seemed to know his poo poo were informative. Literally the problem was "not enough iron".
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Dec 16, 2016 07:35
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So, an interesting problem with my '04 Mazda 6 sportwagon. When temps are sub 60°f (so basicly while driving home from work at night), the car vibrates for the first couple minutes I'm actively driving it. It seems to be suspension/wheel related. Suspension was checked shortly after issue started and was in good condition with nothing loose or with excessive play. Wheel bearings were also found to be good. I originally suspected that I unbalanced the wheels heavily while painting them, but the issue doesn't exist during the day when its warmer or once everything comes up to temp. Sensation reminds me of driving on flatspotted tires just after getting my truck back up and running. Particularly a sensation of being on a boat rolling slightly in light waves. Has anyone else ever experienced something like this? The tires are 4 year old bfg all seasons that have plenty of tread left, but are starting crack where the sidewall joins the outer tread block. I plan on replacing them in a couple months anyways, buy I'd like to confirm whats going on if possible.
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Dec 16, 2016 09:17
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*removed*
astrollinthepork fucked around with this message at 19:07 on Dec 16, 2016 |
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Dec 16, 2016 11:23
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A general country (or continent) of origin for the picture would probably help narrow it down. Edit: Its a small hatchback of some sort, which is why narrowing it down would be handy. Of the top my head in the US alone since 2000, you have the iM, prius, matrix/vibe, xb, xa, yaris, focus, fiesta, spark, aveo, versa note, mazda 3, golf, civic, mini, 1 series and c30. Probably missing a few in there. Add in europe you add fiats, skodas, seats, dacias, etc and the versions of stuff not available in the us. That dome light is pretty distinctive and will be your key to finding it. Rear seats from the toyota family look pretty close, but the dome light is way off, so I'm out of idea for the night. Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 12:52 on Dec 16, 2016 |
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Dec 16, 2016 11:50
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Do you have a higher‐res version where you can see what’s written on the pillar with the seat belt anchor?
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Dec 16, 2016 11:52
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No higher res is available unfortunately. It is a US based vehicle.
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Dec 16, 2016 13:34
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Platystemon posted:Do you have a higher‐res version where you can see what’s written on the pillar with the seat belt anchor? I will almost guarantee that text says 'AIRBAG'. Unfortunately, that pic really doesn't give us much.
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Dec 16, 2016 15:06
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The dome light and the seat belt anchor are the most distinctive things in there. They both look vaguely Ford‐ish to me, but I didn’t find any exact matches so maybe I’m wrong.
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Dec 16, 2016 15:56
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Platystemon posted:The dome light and the seat belt anchor are the most distinctive things in there. GIS "ford focus rear dome light" is the closest thing i've found. rear seat could match as well.
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Dec 16, 2016 16:01
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The squared-off, upright windows say "truck/SUV/crossover" to me. Which means either the trunk is so small as to be unusable, like a Wrangler (it's not a Wrangler, the roof isn't removable) or that's a third-row seat in the background. But almost everything I've looked at has the 2nd row seat belts tuck directly under the pillar trim, not out through whatever that pivoting thing is called. I didn't see a single vehicle that had a match for that piece.
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Dec 16, 2016 18:36
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From Ford's site, the seat belt trim, dome light and rear headrests all look like a Focus. Rear glass in the target car doesn't widen at the top like in that photo, which is a hatch, so I'm gonna go with sedan, which has that mostly-squared look to it.  So yeah I'm calling late-model Focus sedan.
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Dec 16, 2016 18:42
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Rear seat headrests match, rear middle seatbelt matches, seat belt trim on the B-pillar matches. I don't think the rear windshield does, though. It's heavily canted on a Focus. Doesn't look like a C-Max quite matches either, though it shares that same seat. Edit: B-Max? Edit2: No. Godholio fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Dec 16, 2016 |
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Dec 16, 2016 18:46
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I got lucky and found the vehicle I'm looking for. It's a late model Ford Escape.
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Dec 16, 2016 19:08
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I'm going to try to replace the serpentine belt in our 06 Odyssey this weekend, which I've never done it before. Do I just need the belt and a breaker bar to loosen the tensioner? Should I also replace the tensioner? As far as I know, neither of these have ever been replaced since it was purchased in 09. Anything I should know before doing this? I have only somewhat basic car maintenance knowledge (oil, etc). Is it as "easy" as loosening the tensioner, taking the belt off, replacing tensioner, put new belt on? Henrik Zetterberg fucked around with this message at 19:23 on Dec 16, 2016 |
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Dec 16, 2016 19:12
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astrollinthepork posted:I got lucky and found the vehicle I'm looking for. It's a late model Ford Escape. I was JUST going to say that, drat IT. Matched it to the seat belt thing.
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Dec 16, 2016 19:12
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Henrik Zetterberg posted:serpentine belt in our 06 Odyssey https://youtu.be/KoYMPoDb3qo (I'm sure there's a better video somewhere but this is the first one I saw and I'm phoneposting 
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Dec 16, 2016 20:15
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astrollinthepork posted:I got lucky and found the vehicle I'm looking for. It's a late model Ford Escape. I know you can't say what the case was about, but can you reassure me that it wasn't some horrible crime involving a young person and a ditch?
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Dec 17, 2016 02:40
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Invalido posted:There are Youtubes of almost any routine car procedure which is very helpful. The belt isn't hard, but you need to work a little to get access, jacking up the car, removing the wheel and some plastic fender liner and then it seems perfectly straightforward Thanks! We get the battery light and loss of power steering when it rains really hard. Makes sense that it's the serpentine. I used a turkey baster and sprayed some water on the belt just now and saw the power steering pulley slip once, so I think that's it. Although the belt doesn't look super old. The belt doesn't seem loose either when the car is off, so I don't think I'm going to replace the tensioner.
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Dec 17, 2016 06:02
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