|
I'm not really convinced on the fancy break-in oils and just use whatever conventional 10w-30 is cheap.
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2016 21:28
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 14, 2024 05:16 |
|
|
Cross-posting this from the General stupid question thread in case these are more common on this car: Car in question is the gf's 2006 Subaru Impreza. The cigarette lighter blows it's fuse the instant you plug a car charger into it (tried multiple ones). It shares a fuse with the power mirrors, but using those does not blow the fuse. Using a multi-meter and pulling out the socket (so just testing the wires) It's showing that it's connected even with the fuse removed. This means I have a short somewhere in the line right? So since the mirrors work without shorting, it isn't in that part of the circuit. It seems like my options are to either take the dash apart and find the wiring issue OR run a standalone wiring+fuse to the cig lighter and ignore the shorted one. The latter option is much easier, but less "correct". Any other ideas? Completely unrelated but there is a slight squeaking noise when the clutch pedal is fully disengaged. It's dead quiet when you put the slightest pressure on the pedal, is there maybe an adjustment for the pedal or clutch fork? I haven't spent a lot of time under her car yet I admit. Would it be just the clutch fork vibrating against the throw-out bearing?
|
|
#
?
Dec 13, 2016 04:19
|
|
|
Question. At what sort of power level would a 3 inch exhaust be "essential " on a v9 SpeC motor (so v36 turbo) Also basing it all on the fact I'm also using a 36mm intake restrictor and its 98 octane pump fuel (so apparently about 170-180kw....)
|
|
#
?
Dec 13, 2016 07:27
|
|
|
It'll make more. We cut the 2.4" donut out of a car to make it full 3" and it picked up a reasonable amount. I don't remember off the top of my head but i want to say over 15whp. Same dyno, same day. If you don't have a downpipe with a big bell mouth or at least it's own wastegate plumbing (as in not a pipe welded onto a flat flange) that will help too. I don't know how the inlet restriction will affect things though. Less peak gain i guess, but still wider and less drop off up top?
|
|
#
?
Dec 13, 2016 07:41
|
|
|
I think I hosed up on my wheel purchase/tire. I've got a '13 Outback 3.6r and I went up to an 18x8 +48 offset wheel with 245/50R18 tires on it, and I'm getting some weird vibration at speed. The tires/wheels came balanced from Tire Rack. I think it's because the tire is probably rubbing a little up front due to deformation. I only have about a centimeter between the tire and strut body. I'm thinking about getting a 10mm spacer to resolve it. Would i be OK just running spacers up front since the Outback has equal front and rear tracks, or should I get 4? Are there other steps I should take first to make sure that's the issue?
|
|
#
?
Dec 13, 2016 15:42
|
|
|
Wrar posted:I think I hosed up on my wheel purchase/tire. I've got a '13 Outback 3.6r and I went up to an 18x8 +48 offset wheel with 245/50R18 tires on it, and I'm getting some weird vibration at speed. The tires/wheels came balanced from Tire Rack. As someone who just went through something similar, get them rebalanced locally. If you push the wheel further out, you'll probably just magnify the shake that's already there. One front tire was 1/2 oz out of balance and that's all it needed to be a paint shaker at 64+ mph. Also, don't google 'outback shaker', because it's a really common problem and I bet with heavier wheels you just made it worse.
|
|
#
?
Dec 13, 2016 16:14
|
|
|
It's not a bad vibration. It's really subtle but it wasn't there before. Also I went to a ~20lb wheel instead of the 22lb wheel, so i'm guessing the difference is small. Wrar fucked around with this message at 16:54 on Dec 13, 2016 |
|
#
?
Dec 13, 2016 16:49
|
|
|
Agreed, get them roadforce balanced. A hunter machine detected my very slightly bent wheel that all other balancers declared OK.
|
|
#
?
Dec 13, 2016 18:38
|
|
|
If they were rubbing you would probably be able to see marks. 1cm is probably plenty. Balance should probably be re-checked. Could also be something worn in the suspension like a tie rod, ball joint, or bushing.
|
|
#
?
Dec 13, 2016 19:12
|
|
|
Wrar posted:I think I hosed up on my wheel purchase/tire. I've got a '13 Outback 3.6r and I went up to an 18x8 +48 offset wheel with 245/50R18 tires on it, and I'm getting some weird vibration at speed. The tires/wheels came balanced from Tire Rack. 1cm clearence? Plenty. I've run 3mm clearence and had zero rub. I would suggest the tyres / wheels are just simply not 100% balanced.
|
|
#
?
Dec 13, 2016 21:01
|
|
|
Tire Rack does Road Force. I could have them checked, and then it's suspension bullshit if everything is good. I made sure all lugs were torqued correctly after ~30 miles of driving, so I'll have to plunk some coin to run this down. Dang. Thanks for the help guys. Wrar fucked around with this message at 22:02 on Dec 13, 2016 |
|
#
?
Dec 13, 2016 21:47
|
|
|
jamal posted:It'll make more. We cut the 2.4" donut out of a car to make it full 3" and it picked up a reasonable amount. I don't remember off the top of my head but i want to say over 15whp. Same dyno, same day. If you don't have a downpipe with a big bell mouth or at least it's own wastegate plumbing (as in not a pipe welded onto a flat flange) that will help too. Full PBMS/prodrive copy exhaust with one extremely serious blended Bellmouth! With a restrictor the turbo hits a certain flow level and it just stays there. With a 33 mm restrictor boost drops to 7 psi at 6200rpm. The dirty flat power curve and 620nm of Torque do make up for it a bit... Kaptainballistik fucked around with this message at 22:20 on Dec 13, 2016 |
|
#
?
Dec 13, 2016 22:17
|
|
|
Pics of bellmouth? (wait, that sounds dirty if you think of British slang) I just think of it like, the bigger the delta-P across the turbine the better, especially given the pressure ratios across the compressor. Too bad there's not a trivial way to put a GT28 style compressor in. The GTX2860R seems like it would be pretty suited to a 36mm restrictor.
|
|
#
?
Dec 13, 2016 22:30
|
|
|
Blouch's 16g-xtr is basically that in oem fitment: http://www.bptstore.com/Subaru-WRXSTi-16G-XT-R-Turbocharger-_p_131.html Or is this a twin scroll car? I assume there is something out there that is similar for TS stuff but those never came to the us. jamal fucked around with this message at 23:26 on Dec 13, 2016 |
|
#
?
Dec 13, 2016 23:22
|
|
|
It is a 2006 STi SPEC C RA after all... It's got all the REALLY dumb things fitted. So yes, twinscroll. Did you know the S204 and RA-R had spherical joints on the Front inner arms? I didn't till I got sent a set when the guy didn't know what they were and sent me "STI arms"
|
|
#
?
Dec 14, 2016 00:49
|
|
|
jamal posted:Blouch's 16g-xtr is basically that in oem fitment: I don't really trust Blouch's secret squirrel compressors. Plus I doubt it'll be good up to a 4.5 PR like the Garrett
|
|
#
?
Dec 14, 2016 01:29
|
|
|
Yeah, I guess making a new impeller is easier than a new compressor cover casting. They have worked well for me in the past but I don't get good pricing on them through my distributor so I haven't really kept up. Plus if I was in aus I wouldn't buy a turbo from the us. Someone like GCG or AVO could probably come up with something. I'm not seeing a TS, stock location GTX2860 but I would assume one of them could cobble one together, or something similar.
|
|
#
?
Dec 14, 2016 02:16
|
|
|
As someone who grew up in the 90's Gran Turismo era, I swore that one day I would have twin turbos. This is not quite what I had in mind but I'll take it!  The forester is stock. The WRX has STI Brembos in the front, Tomei titanium exhaust, and some misc cosmetic stuff. They are both very fun cars and I love them.
|
|
#
?
Dec 14, 2016 05:35
|
|
|
I really thought that was a minivan. Jesus.
|
|
#
?
Dec 14, 2016 06:55
|
|
|
Wrar posted:Tire Rack does Road Force. I could have them checked, and then it's suspension bullshit if everything is good. An easy way to check balance is to swap fronts to rears to see if the vibration gets better or worse. I know exactly what you're talking about, and it was a bad balance job. Likely exacerbated by almost 9 year old suspension components. It's a subtle vibration that will just kinda come and go depending on the road and sometimes made worse by a slight curve on the freeway. I'd say the steps from cheapest to most expensive in tracking this down are: - Just live with it - Make sure the hubcentric rings they sent along are the right ones. - swap tires fronts to back - balance check/rebalance - check alignment - check tie rods/ball joints - check brake rotors for warping - check wheel bearings e: -full whiteline rebush 
|
|
#
?
Dec 14, 2016 13:22
|
|
|
iwentdoodie posted:I really thought that was a minivan. Jesus. The forester has grown fat l.
|
|
#
?
Dec 14, 2016 13:55
|
|
|
It grew fat a long time ago.
|
|
#
?
Dec 14, 2016 13:59
|
|
|
Geology posted:As someone who grew up in the 90's Gran Turismo era, I swore that one day I would have twin turbos. This is not quite what I had in mind but I'll take it! How's the CVT in the FXT? I have an '07 FSXT with a stick that I bought new. I was disappointed to learn that the new XTs don't get a manual, should I need to replace my car in the next few years. I drove my parents' CVT-equipped '12 Outback and it didn't seem like it would be much fun with the turbo motor, but maybe the newer ones are improved.
|
|
#
?
Dec 14, 2016 14:49
|
|
|
Jesus - I wish I was half as smart as most of you in this thread. Serious post.
|
|
#
?
Dec 14, 2016 14:54
|
|
|
Konrad posted:How's the CVT in the FXT? Well it's not awful. My wife drives it in "I" mode which is boring mode. In I-mode it does the basic CVT routine of holding about 3000 RPM and ramping the gear ratio. It's fine for non-sporty driving. Then there's S and S# modes. I have never used S but I put it in S# manual mode when I drive it alone so I can pretend I'm a racecar driver. In S# it simulates an 8-speed conventional automatic. You can toggle between them with the paddles and as far as I can tell, it lets you rev to redline. I assume it works the same as the CVT WRXs, but mine is a manual. 8 speed is kinda silly bc the ratios are so close to each other you end up skipping gears a lot. There's a little bit of lag in the shifting but it doesn't bother me. The only other CVT I've driven to compare it to is my mom's Sentra, and the Forester's is much much better.
|
|
#
?
Dec 14, 2016 15:56
|
|
|
jamal posted:Yeah, I guess making a new impeller is easier than a new compressor cover casting. They have worked well for me in the past but I don't get good pricing on them through my distributor so I haven't really kept up. Well, let me be clear that it's not like I'm bashing that hard on Blouch - I pretty much know their compressors aren't going to be as efficient as Garrett, BW, MHI or IHI but for most people's uses that doesn't matter. I mean, 70 vs 75% efficiency at the meat of the map is going to be a difference of what, 20-30 degrees outlet temp, maybe 10 degrees after the intercooler? For street guys, having a turbo about the right flow on the cold and hot side is going to matter vastly more than little bits of efficiency you'd gain. poo poo, I'd wager Precision's big swinging dick drag turbos aren't that efficient either compared to the big companies, but big deal. Flowing through a restrictor though is going to be more demanding though - and the GTX2860R map ends up looking a lot like the restrictor optimized TR30R turbos. (gosh, it's easy to recommend people buy expensive things)
|
|
#
?
Dec 14, 2016 16:20
|
|
|
Wrar posted:Tire Rack does Road Force. I could have them checked, and then it's suspension bullshit if everything is good. What year outback? The rear control arm bushings tend to wear out on the newer ones. Take a look at those.
|
|
#
?
Dec 14, 2016 19:07
|
|
|
2013. And the vibration seems to be from the back at 40ish.
|
|
#
?
Dec 14, 2016 20:31
|
|
|
Geology posted:Then there's S and S# modes. I have never used S but I put it in S# manual mode when I drive it alone so I can pretend I'm a racecar driver. In S# it simulates an 8-speed conventional automatic. You can toggle between them with the paddles and as far as I can tell, it lets you rev to redline. I assume it works the same as the CVT WRXs, but mine is a manual. 8 speed is kinda silly bc the ratios are so close to each other you end up skipping gears a lot. There's a little bit of lag in the shifting but it doesn't bother me. The only other CVT I've driven to compare it to is my mom's Sentra, and the Forester's is much much better. Yep, that's how it works on the WRX, except i mode is still a simulated 6 speed, just super lazy and infuriating. i/S/S# also impacts idle; off the top of my head, I want to say I sit at ~1500/2500/3500. Redline on the tach still shows 7500, but it will force the shift before it hits 7k when you're in manual mode. I use the paddles pretty much continuously, so I usually stay in S, since trying to manage 8 gears is annoying. Shifting is lightning quick, I rarely need to wait for it to sync. Hands-off S# is great for charging up a twisty hill though. CVT wasn't my first choice, but my wife can't drive stick (preemptive "no, she wouldn't be able to learn; yes, I know it's easy and anyone can do it, you can feel free to have that conversation with your wife when it comes up.") Once you learn how to take advantage of the weird linear acceleration and figure out how to avoid the rubber banding (the answer to both is controlled throttle), it's pretty fun. I'd say the key to enjoying it is to not compare it to a manual; between the different AWD system and adjusted front/rear split, it's got a very different character. CrzyDTpBoy fucked around with this message at 02:50 on Dec 15, 2016 |
|
#
?
Dec 15, 2016 02:45
|
|
|
So I took the wife's 2010 Outback 2.5i with 100k miles on it in because it was stalling at stop lights. Turns out the torque converter is bad and it's a known issue with that model year. There's a service bulletin on it describing how the torque converter has been redesigned so the issue stops happening (16-90-13R). The dealership wants $2200 to replace the torque converter. I know it's out of warranty, but it still seems a little hosed to make me pay to fix a known design flaw. I called Subaru of America and they said they would look into it. I guess my question is what are the odds I get any kind of relief from Subaru on this?
|
|
#
?
Dec 15, 2016 03:29
|
|
|
Close to zero.
|
|
#
?
Dec 15, 2016 03:53
|
|
|
Out of warranty = dont care any more. The dealers are scumfuck bastards in America, do research on good local shops and take your car there instead. It will be much cheaper + they actually have to worry about customers coming back and their reputation so they will have much better service and will care about you a lot more than a service writer seeing dollar signs will.
|
|
#
?
Dec 15, 2016 03:56
|
|
|
Any issues with 2010 Imprezzas? I found a sweet looking Outback Sport MT with 95k on it for 9 grand. It checks all my needs but I really don't want to deal with head gaskets if that's still an issue.
|
|
#
?
Dec 15, 2016 07:59
|
|
|
I loved my 07 outback sport and am sad I sold it. Drove for 100k with nothing but oil changes. Head gaskets on a 2010 shouldn't be a problem like they were a couple gen earlier I don't think. At 100k make sure timing belt is done (assuming they haven't moved to a chain). For an 07 it was usual recommended to do the water pump at the same time preemptively, someone else is probably more knowledgeable than me for the 2010 wherever that was still A Thing.
|
|
#
?
Dec 15, 2016 16:28
|
|
|
Just musing on this... I like the Killer Bee Spoolinator setup, but I'm sitting here wondering why someone doesn't just have an EWG uppipe that ends in a V-band flange to do the same thing minus the extra Subaru flange bits. Something for me to make, I guess.
|
|
#
?
Dec 15, 2016 17:17
|
|
|
Applebees Appetizer posted:Any issues with 2010 Imprezzas? Hmm, the OP says this. Read words: If you have a 99-09 n/a Subaru it also has crappy headgaskets, and if you go to the dealership for gaskets they will install those same crappy ones. Thankfully there is a solution to this problem- 04-06 STi headgaskets. The are the same thickness, have all the holes in the same places, but are a multi layer steel (MLS) design, compared to the junk single layer coated gaskets. Part number is 11044AA642. For 2010 the n/a subarus finally got a MLS gasket which is pn 11044AA770, or the same gasket in the 2008+ STi. The only difference between this gasket and the -642 are the holes for the cooling passages in the head.
|
|
#
?
Dec 15, 2016 19:08
|
|
|
I have heard reports of 2010+ EJs still occasionally having headgaskets leak but it should be way less common. Or maybe it wasn't a hard change for 2010 and it was more of a transition year.mekilljoydammit posted:Just musing on this... I like the Killer Bee Spoolinator setup, but I'm sitting here wondering why someone doesn't just have an EWG uppipe that ends in a V-band flange to do the same thing minus the extra Subaru flange bits. Something for me to make, I guess. ETS will make a kit with v-bands everywhere and all their stuff is really nice.
|
|
#
?
Dec 15, 2016 20:22
|
|
|
I have a 2011 Impreza that had leaking head gaskets. Dealership told me to "keep an eye on it". They never mentioned how bad of a problem it was or that it was covered under my warranty. I got it fixed asap as soon as I learned what is was. Also wrecked a new 2016 impreza they gave me as a loaner when a moose ran out in front of me. A+ would subaru again.
|
|
#
?
Dec 15, 2016 23:49
|
|
|
Txiuct posted:I have a 2011 Impreza that had leaking head gaskets. Dealership told me to "keep an eye on it". They never mentioned how bad of a problem it was or that it was covered under my warranty. I got it fixed asap as soon as I learned what is was. Also wrecked a new 2016 impreza they gave me as a loaner when a moose ran out in front of me. A+ would subaru again. You clocked a moose in a 2016 Impreza and survived? A family friend just rolled her '15 XV multiple times to the point where the cops thought there was no way she could have survived (she escaped with a bruised knee), but the moose hit is somehow more impressive to me.
|
|
#
?
Dec 15, 2016 23:50
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 14, 2024 05:16 |
|
|
ch3cooh posted:So I took the wife's 2010 Outback 2.5i with 100k miles on it in because it was stalling at stop lights. Turns out the torque converter is bad and it's a known issue with that model year. There's a service bulletin on it describing how the torque converter has been redesigned so the issue stops happening (16-90-13R). The dealership wants $2200 to replace the torque converter. I know it's out of warranty, but it still seems a little hosed to make me pay to fix a known design flaw. Update: Subaru of America is covering the repair
|
|
#
?
Dec 16, 2016 00:04
|
|