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Bistromatic posted:You have learned patience when you can leave your almost finished model alone for a week while the gloss coat fully dries and hardens. Took me a while. Jeeeez
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Dec 18, 2016 00:11
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Bistromatic posted:You have learned patience when you can leave your almost finished model alone for a week while the gloss coat fully dries and hardens. Took me a while. What, you mean you shouldn't spray matte 15 minutes after the gloss? 
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Dec 18, 2016 00:40
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Can anyone offer any advice regarding the different Vallejo paint lines? I am finally going to be making the switch from GW paints to Vallejo for a number of reason, but I have been struggling the last two weeks on which line I should use? I do have an air brush and use it regularly, but I primarily paint 40k models with a brush. I make my own washes that I am happy with so I don't need to consider that. I want to buy a large rather complete set of paints and am wondering if I should go model or game and air vs normal.
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Dec 18, 2016 01:24
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JesusIsTehCool posted:I want to buy a large rather complete set of paints and am wondering if I should go model or game and air vs normal. Why do you want to buy a complete set of paints instead of just buying the ones you need?
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Dec 18, 2016 01:31
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signalnoise posted:Why do you want to buy a complete set of paints instead of just buying the ones you need? I have 4 40k armies all with completely different color schemes so I will need a lot of colors. Also the reason I have stuck with GW paints for so long is primarily because I can get them at the store the day I need them. I am not the most organized and will regularly forget something when I order stuff. Since I will need to order the paints online I don't want to have to wait 2 to 5 days for the paint I didn't realize I needed until I sat down to start painting.
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Dec 18, 2016 01:50
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Unless you really want to paint lots of WW2 models, you can definitely afford to be choosy with VMC.
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Dec 18, 2016 01:53
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JesusIsTehCool posted:Can anyone offer any advice regarding the different Vallejo paint lines? I am finally going to be making the switch from GW paints to Vallejo for a number of reason, but I have been struggling the last two weeks on which line I should use? I do have an air brush and use it regularly, but I primarily paint 40k models with a brush. I make my own washes that I am happy with so I don't need to consider that. The Vallejo Game Color range will have closer equivalents to several Citadel paints over the Model Color line, but otherwise they're the same quality paint. Game Color does have a range of paints that are extra opaque and are very good for putting down underpaintings on models, though there aren't anywhere near as many extra opaque colors as there are compared to the base layer range provided by Citadel. If you do not have an airbrush, I would not recommend using the Model or Color Air paints. They're thinned down and don't work too well with paintbrushes in my own experience. Some people get them to work, but I paint models like I do on canvas and use lots of paint and like it thick. Scale Hobbyist has the best deals on Vallejo paint sets. Vallejo Model Color 72 Paint Set Vallejo Game Color 72 Paint Set
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Dec 18, 2016 01:53
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JesusIsTehCool posted:
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Dec 18, 2016 01:57
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VMC has plenty of bright colors, and you could probably paint almost anything you wanted with just VMC. It just also has a lot of WW2 colors. However, I wholeheartedly support picking and choosing among all the main brands (with the possible exception of Citadel).
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Dec 18, 2016 02:02
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Star Man posted:The Vallejo Game Color range will have closer equivalents to several Citadel paints over the Model Color line, but otherwise they're the same quality paint. Game Color does have a range of paints that are extra opaque and are very good for putting down underpaintings on models, though there aren't anywhere near as many extra opaque colors as there are compared to the base layer range provided by Citadel. Thanks this was very helpful. If I thinned VGC will it run well through an airbrush?
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Dec 18, 2016 02:06
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JesusIsTehCool posted:Thanks this was very helpful. Vallejo also makes their own retarder medium which I imagine is designed for this.
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Dec 18, 2016 02:16
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Avenging Dentist posted:VMC has plenty of bright colors, and you could probably paint almost anything you wanted with just VMC. It just also has a lot of WW2 colors. However, I wholeheartedly support picking and choosing among all the main brands (with the possible exception of Citadel). Even with the markup and lovely containers, the technique paints are still a good and unique line worth checking out.
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Dec 18, 2016 02:17
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mango sentinel posted:Vallejo also makes their own retarder medium which I imagine is designed for this. I don't think you know what a retarder is.
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Dec 18, 2016 02:18
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JesusIsTehCool posted:Thanks this was very helpful. This is what VGA is for. I buy air over color most of the time, unless I'm totally sure I'm never going to airbrush a paint. I'd prefer to do multiple thin coats of an air than screw about thinning color.
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Dec 18, 2016 02:20
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Star Man posted:I don't think you know what a retarder is. Slows paint drying, I thought people liked this for air brushing to keep it from clogging.
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Dec 18, 2016 02:23
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Star Man posted:If you do not have an airbrush, I would not recommend using the Model or Color Air paints. They're thinned down and don't work too well with paintbrushes in my own experience. Some people get them to work, but I paint models like I do on canvas and use lots of paint and like it thick. Scale Hobbyist has the best deals on Vallejo paint sets. Sorry but can't agree with this, you're thinning the paints down anyway, VMA is perfectly fine to use with a brush and usually recommended over the VMC colour if it's available. If you're painting out of the pot that's uh, not too good. mango sentinel posted:Slows paint drying, I thought people liked this for air brushing to keep it from clogging. You can get combination retarders/thinners but you still need to thin down the paint, retarders are usually a bit more like a medium in consistency. ijyt fucked around with this message at 02:28 on Dec 18, 2016 |
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Dec 18, 2016 02:25
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quote:Don't listen to ijyt 
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Dec 18, 2016 02:28
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Neurolimal posted:Even with the markup and lovely containers, the technique paints are still a good and unique line worth checking out. Honestly, a lot of their technical paints are just pre-mixed versions of stuff you can already get pretty easily. The cracked earth texture paints they have is just crackle medium, Blood for the Blood God is basically just Tamiya Clear Red, Liquid Green Stuff is just an inconveniently-colored liquid putty like Mr. Dissolved Putty, etc. For small amounts, it might make sense to pick some up, but I'd definitely rather grab Vallejo texture paints for bases, since Vallejo's is almost 5 times cheaper. mango sentinel posted:Slows paint drying, I thought people liked this for air brushing to keep it from clogging. Generally you want airbrush thinner for that, which Vallejo also sells.
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Dec 18, 2016 02:31
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Neurolimal posted:Even with the markup and lovely containers, the technique paints are still a good and unique line worth checking out. Though Vallejo has equivalents of some of the technicals now. Specifically the corrosion, oxide, and nurgle's rot paints. They can be found in the Vallejo Special Effects set.
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Dec 18, 2016 02:33
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Thanks for everyone's input, its been helpful. I think I am just going to have to order a bottle of VGA and VGC and see which I like better, sounds like they are both good paints and the difference is somewhat subjective.
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Dec 18, 2016 05:13
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JesusIsTehCool posted:I have 4 40k armies all with completely different color schemes so I will need a lot of colors. Also the reason I have stuck with GW paints for so long is primarily because I can get them at the store the day I need them. I am not the most organized and will regularly forget something when I order stuff. Since I will need to order the paints online I don't want to have to wait 2 to 5 days for the paint I didn't realize I needed until I sat down to start painting. Counterpoint: When ordering a complete set, you will spend $3 extra per bottle and order a pile of paints you aren't going to need. I've got a lot of paint that I've never used because I ordered a complete VGC set when they first came out. Look at the army (yes, army, because if you do more than one at a time, you'll go crazy and won't be able to finish anything) you want to work on, and make a list of the colors you'll need. You can start with the GW colors and look at a conversion chart and order the VGC/VMC equivalents. Toss in a couple of the basics as well, such as black, white, etc. If you realize you're missing a color somewhere along the way, you can always order it and bide your time painting 100+ bolters, or lenses, or whatever. Go back to the missing color when the bottles arrive in the mail. Trust me - having those extra colors you don't really need is nothing more than an expensive way to clutter up your desk. berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 19:24 on Dec 19, 2016 |
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Dec 19, 2016 19:21
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berzerkmonkey posted:Counterpoint: When ordering a complete set, you will spend $3 extra per bottle and order a pile of paints you aren't going to need. I've got a lot of paint that I've never used because I ordered a complete VMC set when they first came out. Wait, what? That may be the first paint set I've heard of where you LOSE money buying a set 
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Dec 19, 2016 19:24
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Neurolimal posted:Wait, what? That may be the first paint set I've heard of where you LOSE money buying a set If you spend $300 on 100 bottles of paint, and only use 45 of them, you've wasted $165.
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Dec 19, 2016 19:25
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berzerkmonkey posted:If you spend $300 on 100 bottles of paint, and only use 45 of them, you've wasted $165. I guess that's just a matter of perspective; to me that's not $165 that has disappeared, but $165 of paint that I have prepared if I decide on a project that needs them. Though, with how well GW pots seal I can see why one might say thats $165 wasted 
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Dec 19, 2016 19:31
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berzerkmonkey posted:If you spend $300 on 100 bottles of paint, and only use 45 of them, you've wasted $165. Your point stands The Vallejo sets are 72 paints for $200.
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Dec 19, 2016 19:34
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mango sentinel posted:Who is selling a set of paints that costs per the same as retail? Seriously? Fine, I'll redo my example for you: Vallejo paints are $3 per bottle at the Warstore. If you purchase the 72 in that set individually, and use them all, you're paying $216, and overpaying by $16. If you purchase that complete 72 bottle set for $200 and use less than 66 of those paints, you've wasted money versus purchasing separately ($198.) What I'm saying is that if you're painting Ultramarines, bottles like Screaming Pink and Flaming Orange are probably going to be wasted. Yeah, you might use them in the future, but you might not. But if it floats your boat to buy stuff you aren't going to use, just to have a complete set, go for it. Neurolimal posted:Though, with how well GW pots seal I can see why one might say thats $165 wasted berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 20:07 on Dec 19, 2016 |
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Dec 19, 2016 20:05
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Fidel Castronaut posted:I painted my first miniatures! I followed Sorastro's guide for the Stormtroopers and I'm hooked. I see a lot of room for improvement (I think my paint is too thick and the brushwork is slapdash) but I don't hate my results. One nice thing about Star Wars is the "used space" aesthetic allows for some messiness but I would like to make more consistent looking figures. Not looking to become a pro but if I'm level 1 and some of you all are level 100, I'd like to be level 20 or 30. I'm open to suggestions about how to improve based on what you see here. These are really loving good for first miniatures
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Dec 19, 2016 21:41
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berzerkmonkey posted:Seriously? Fine, I'll redo my example for you: This is a lot of words for someone who agrees with you and was just pointing out the part of your post people were taking issue with.
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Dec 19, 2016 21:44
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mango sentinel posted:This is a lot of words for someone who agrees with you and was just pointing out the part of your post people were taking issue with. Sorry - it didn't read like you agreed.
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Dec 19, 2016 22:17
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berzerkmonkey posted:Vallejo isn't spectacular either, as their paints appear to break down or get goopy after a few years (though they do last longer than GW, of course.) I wish GW would return to the old flip-top jars. I've got paints and inks from 1988 that are still good... I believe Scale Creep Miniatures still sells the Coat D'Arms range in the U.S., i've got a bunch and while a few are a little thinner than the hexagon pots from back in the day, they're for the most part just as good as back when they were making paints for GW.
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Dec 20, 2016 02:56
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berzerkmonkey posted:Counterpoint: When ordering a complete set, you will spend $3 extra per bottle and order a pile of paints you aren't going to need. I've got a lot of paint that I've never used because I ordered a complete VGC set when they first came out. I have been painting my armies at the same time for a while, it doesn't bother me and I am at the point with 3 of my armies that I have pretty sizable painted forces and don't feel like I need to get any group of models done. My armies are Dark Angels (greens, whites, and blacks/greys) Tyranids (flesh, reds, oranges, yellows), Necrons (purples, pink, metallics), and just started a Harlequin/Eldar/Dark Eldar army (blues, reds. yellows. purples) I agree there will likely be some paints I don't use, but I doubt it will be more than 10%. There is a lot of value added for me knowing that I will never be without a color I need. It might not be the most rational concern but it will make me feel less anxiety about the switch.
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Dec 20, 2016 03:11
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Das_Ubermike posted:I believe Scale Creep Miniatures still sells the Coat D'Arms range in the U.S., i've got a bunch and while a few are a little thinner than the hexagon pots from back in the day, they're for the most part just as good as back when they were making paints for GW. Yup, they do. In fact, because the exchange rate is more favorable to the US now, Coat d'Arms paints are cheaper now than several years ago. EDIT: As for the consistency of the paints, it varies a lot which is a problem with CdA. I have two pots of Goblin Green: one is super thin, and one is the consistency you would expect for a fresh pot of paint.
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Dec 20, 2016 17:41
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Moola posted:These are really loving good for first miniatures Thanks! I feel pretty good about these probe droids except that I wish the eye was more bulb-like and less derpy-like.  Thought I would try to make the elite units look different from the regular units beyond just a red band on the base but um...it's a bit too garish.  I'm pretty happy with my AT-ST, though I'm still finding the medium between goop and inconsistent layers of thinned paint.   Overall, even if my results aren't where I want them, I see the allure of this hobby. It's meditative when you're in the zone.
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Dec 21, 2016 06:57
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Yep. It's a p chill BYOB (the forum) hobby. I've been asked if I do paint commissions from time to time. I always decline since I only do the hobby as a meditative one opposite to my more violent hobbies. Don't worry too much about inconsistency with paint. It happens in the higher levels too. Blending is really all about finding the right paint consistency so it doesn't cause tide marks when you move the paint around.
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Dec 21, 2016 08:51
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Fidel Castronaut posted:Thanks! These are absolutely wonderful considering they're some of your first miniatures. Even if you'd been painting for years, they'd be solid tabletop quality models. The weathering on the AT-ST in particular is really good. My one constructive criticism is that it looks like you need to thin your paint a bit more and do additional layers. On large flat surfaces like the AT-ST, I usually do up to five thin layers of the base color to get it smooth.  I'm painting this shameful overengineered fascistbox in my first foray into historicals. I messed up a little bit - the brown is GW Ushanti Bone, with a Devlan Mud wash over the zimmerit (the texture on some of the panels) to bring out the texture. But of course, then the textured panels were much darker than the flat ones, so I had to wash them as well, and they turned out splotchy.  It's a lot less red IRL (it's under direct light from my desk lamp), and I'm happy with the color, just not the blotchiness. It might turn out alright once I've applied the green in the camo, though. This is the scheme I'm going for:  Is Stirland Mud (the GW technical mud paint-thing) good for making the tracks a little bit muddy, or will it look like poo poo? I'm a bit nervous about giving it a go, since I can't just paint over it if it turns out bad. Geisladisk fucked around with this message at 09:47 on Dec 21, 2016 |
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Dec 21, 2016 09:42
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For the elite ones in future use a shoulder flash or something like the stromtrooper commanders wore in ANH.
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Dec 21, 2016 12:40
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Geisladisk posted:Is Stirland Mud (the GW technical mud paint-thing) good for making the tracks a little bit muddy, or will it look like poo poo? I'm a bit nervous about giving it a go, since I can't just paint over it if it turns out bad. Get the newer one, Stirland Battlemire. Grit in it is finer so you can build up more believable layers of mud and muck on the treads.
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Dec 21, 2016 12:51
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Cross-posting from the Historicals thread... I finally finished my prototype Perry DAK trooper. Mostly I'm just testing colors and whether the MinWax method is acceptable for these guys:    On the whole I'm pretty happy with it (I like the way the whit-and-black DAK stripe on the arm turned out), but I've gotta say I'm not a big fan of the MinWax shading over the green on his pants. I think it would look better if that were shaded/highlighted using more traditional methods. Given that some of the platoon will also have green jackets, I need to figure out something that looks good but that is also fast/easy, as I have almost two whole platoons of these jerks to paint. Thoughts?
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Dec 21, 2016 13:13
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Looks good, nice and effective! I agree a black or green wash would have worked better for the lower half.
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Dec 21, 2016 15:36
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Fidel Castronaut posted:Thought I would try to make the elite units look different from the regular units beyond just a red band on the base but um...it's a bit too garish. There's a lot of different ways you could go about it, so it's really up to you to figure out exactly how you want to deal with elite units, commanders, etc. 's all part of what makes your army yours. Not bad, in any case. As for tips and techniques, Ghool's Painting Tips, while more aimed at Warmahordes stuff, is definitely good for picking up techniques, both for painting and hobbying (is hobbying a word? it should be). Warhammer TV, while obviously trying to shill GW/Citadel paints and brushes, are actually pretty good too. Might have to swap out and find some alternate paints if you don't happen to be on the GW train, which there just so happens to be a spreadsheet for.
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Dec 21, 2016 19:42
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