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Thumposaurus posted:Steel wool, vinegar, and tea will turn wood gray. Yeah I kinda knew about that trick but sadly it will take some time and I'm in a bit of a hurry so I was looking for an alternative. I already got the vinegar underway but boy it isnt a fast process
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Dec 21, 2016 16:37
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skylined! posted:Requesting feedback on my desk I've been working on, and have a few questions. This is all new to me: I'd personally say keep applying coats until you are bored of it. The rule I've always heard with oils is "every day for a week, every week for a month, every month for a year" but that's probably overkill for functional furniture. Maybe do a few more daily coats until it seems like it's really not absorbing after 10 minutes? As far as letting it dry, I believe the Watco can says at least 72 hours before a top finish. I am on a shellac kick so I'd suggest that (just use a coaster under that coffee cup!). If nothing else, it's easy to repair. As far as gloss, you could try sanding your next oil coats 600/800 (the sanded oil slurry will smooth out the surface). But as mentioned earlier, you've really got to buff to get a really high gloss, and something that will film up to produce a smooth top layer like shellac will really help.
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Dec 21, 2016 17:10
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Hubis posted:I'd personally say keep applying coats until you are bored of it. The rule I've always heard with oils is "every day for a week, every week for a month, every month for a year" but that's probably overkill for functional furniture. Maybe do a few more daily coats until it seems like it's really not absorbing after 10 minutes? I think this rule is just for BLO since it isnt really a "finish". Watco Danish oil is a poly/oil mix. There really isnt a reason to be applying more months from now.
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Dec 21, 2016 18:06
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If I wanted to make a small wooden chest (interior dimensions of around 22.5cmx15cmx15cm LxDxH) without using ugly wood screws to secure it, would 6mm diameter dowel suffice to secure the chest faces together (with wood glue) or would it be very structurally weak? I was going to drill 6mm holes into the chest faces and then hammer a dowel inside with glue and hope that it held everything together tightly. I want to make a small wooden chest to give to my friend - who I got as a Secret Santa - and he'll be storing any Dungeons & Dragons related stuff in it, so it won't be required to hold very heavy stuff. Is this a feasible design or would I need to use wood screws?
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Dec 21, 2016 18:08
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Loopoo posted:If I wanted to make a small wooden chest (interior dimensions of around 22.5cmx15cmx15cm LxDxH) without using ugly wood screws to secure it... This sounds like a perfect opportunity to practice box or dovetail joints! 
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Dec 21, 2016 18:15
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Minorkos posted:
There is a very good amateur YouTube video by two middle-aged women showing how to make faux barn board. Not sure if that's what you are looking for. I may have it bookmarked on my desktop when I get there.
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Dec 21, 2016 18:16
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Should be fine, just be careful to drill accurately and watch for splitting. If you cut a rabbet into the ends of the short pieces and fit the corner joints together that way, it'll be a much stronger joint than just butting them together. In fact for a small box you could skip the dowels since the glue joint would be quite sturdy. Or better yet, buy some iron cut-nails for a very classic medieval finish. (Lie Nielsen and Lee Valley both sell them but they're fairly pricey)
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Dec 21, 2016 18:17
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I"m making a pasta drying rack for my wife for Christmas, and I'm not sure what to use for a finish on it. It's made out of red oak. Would it be safe to just put a couple coats of polyurethane over the whole thing, would such as a mineral oil be more appropriate, or something else?
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Dec 21, 2016 19:08
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Thanks for the insight, doods. I decided to try paste wax and am not disappointed. This is the finish I was hoping for! https://imgur.com/gallery/hNmak
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Dec 21, 2016 20:48
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Elder Postsman posted:I"m making a pasta drying rack for my wife for Christmas, and I'm not sure what to use for a finish on it. It's made out of red oak. Would it be safe to just put a couple coats of polyurethane over the whole thing, would such as a mineral oil be more appropriate, or something else? Just rub it with a few coats of olive oil. It'll look nice and stop the pasta from sticking
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Dec 21, 2016 20:50
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Skippy Granola posted:Just rub it with a few coats of olive oil. It'll look nice and stop the pasta from sticking Don't do this. Use mineral oil or another food-safe oil as a finish, yes, but not olive or canola or other cooking oils. They'll never dry properly and eventually go rancid.
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Dec 21, 2016 20:59
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Magnus Praeda posted:Don't do this. Use mineral oil or another food-safe oil as a finish, yes, but not olive or canola or other cooking oils. They'll never dry properly and eventually go rancid. Oh dang you're right that's a good point. I also need to refinish a couple of wooden spoons tonight. Thanks for setting me straight
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Dec 21, 2016 21:11
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skylined! posted:Thanks for the insight, doods. I decided to try paste wax and am not disappointed. This is the finish I was hoping for! Looks good. Top and bottom should be finished equally otherwise you risk the less finished side going concave.
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Dec 22, 2016 02:32
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Just tried making one of these puzzle cubes on my bandsaw. It's super-simple and an easy way to use up some thick scrap wood. Though I think my 1/8" bandsaw blade is a bit too big; I can't really get enough tension on it, so it wobbles a bit while cutting and makes a large kerf. Still, for 10 minutes' work I'm pretty happy to have a little wooden doodad I can show my nieces and nephews.
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Dec 22, 2016 02:36
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Magnus Praeda posted:Don't do this. Use mineral oil or another food-safe oil as a finish, yes, but not olive or canola or other cooking oils. They'll never dry properly and eventually go rancid. Mineral oil it is, then. Thanks!
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Dec 22, 2016 05:23
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Elder Postsman posted:Mineral oil it is, then. Thanks! You can get different food safe oils. I use one called orange oil that smells awesome.
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Dec 22, 2016 05:48
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NPR Journalizard posted:You can get different food safe oils. I use one called orange oil that smells awesome. I would imagine you would want something super neutral for a pasta drying rack so that you don't transfer any smell or flavor to the pasta. That is why I like mineral oil for food things.
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Dec 22, 2016 06:14
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I use raw linseed oil since it cures/oxidizes, it smells "linseedy" at first but I have never noticed it rubbing off on food. Sometimes I finish up with a homemade mixture of raw linseed oil, beeswax and a little carnauba wax and polish it out. I've used this on roll pins and cutting boards.
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Dec 22, 2016 08:56
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I recently (month ago or so) invested in some different glue, namely Titebond II, got a small bottle and a gallon jug to refill from and I have to say I think the bottle design is the best one by far that I have used. Finally no more loose bottle caps that get lost, or crappy systems of attachment that gets in the way when applying the glue. I've tried my own glue bottles from old bottles of detergent and soap and even mustard, but even the better designed caps broke off or dried so the caps stopped being tight. This has worked without flaw for longer than any other system I've used. I am pretty sold on TB II now. Not sure if I'll bother with original or ultimate... I like having just one bottle in the shop.
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Dec 22, 2016 09:56
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His Divine Shadow posted:I use raw linseed oil since it cures/oxidizes, it smells "linseedy" at first but I have never noticed it rubbing off on food. Sometimes I finish up with a homemade mixture of raw linseed oil, beeswax and a little carnauba wax and polish it out. I've used this on roll pins and cutting boards. You didn't say this but to point it out: don't use BOILED linseed oil for food products.
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Dec 22, 2016 14:40
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Man, you guys have put a lot of thought into this, so I feel bad not saying something earlier, but you can actually just buy pre-dried pasta nowadays.
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Dec 22, 2016 16:05
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Yeah, you should feel bad.
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Dec 22, 2016 16:07
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Slugworth posted:Man, you guys have put a lot of thought into this, so I feel bad not saying something earlier, but you can actually just buy pre-dried pasta nowadays. Suuuure, and I guess you can buy pre sliced bread and go to the general store in some kind of carriage without horses too 
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Dec 22, 2016 16:10
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Slugworth posted:Man, you guys have put a lot of thought into this, so I feel bad not saying something earlier, but you can actually just buy pre-dried pasta nowadays. Did you guys hear? IKEA sells furniture! 
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Dec 22, 2016 16:14
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Slugworth posted:Man, you guys have put a lot of thought into this, so I feel bad not saying something earlier, but you can actually just buy pre-dried pasta nowadays. Oh yeah future man? So why do I have Rubella?
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Dec 22, 2016 16:18
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Elder Postsman posted:I"m making a pasta drying rack for my wife for Christmas, and I'm not sure what to use for a finish on it. It's made out of red oak. Would it be safe to just put a couple coats of polyurethane over the whole thing, would such as a mineral oil be more appropriate, or something else? I'd never use red oak for anything food related. So you should probably scrap the whole thing, or go with your first bet polyurethane and use it as a sweater drying rack (still not optimal)
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Dec 22, 2016 17:12
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wormil posted:Looks good. Top and bottom should be finished equally otherwise you risk the less finished side going concave. Turns out finishing both sides is not necessary! http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/finish_both_sides_not_necessary
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Dec 22, 2016 17:43
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It brings up a good question, though: is there a good guide to woodworking with food safety in mind? Wood types, finish types, water, heat, and stain resistance, holding up to repeated cleaning, etc.
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Dec 22, 2016 17:48
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swampface posted:Turns out finishing both sides is not necessary! http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/finish_both_sides_not_necessary I was waiting for someone to link this. This is a case where "debunking the myth" becomes the myth. Like when it started going around that the slot in threaded inserts is not for a screwdriver, it is, and those were credible, educated people, spreading that myth. Flexner is basing this on his experience refinishing antiques but he is only seeing pieces that survived, not the thousands of pieces that didn't. Flexner is wrong. It's contrary to my own experience, contrary to what I know about wood movement, and contrary to his own published work. I don't know how many times I've read on woodworking forums that someone is building a table and their top bowed or cupped, soon after they admit they only finished the top or they laid the bare panel atop their saw or workbench cutting off air to one side. I've written quite a bit on it and debunked him point by point, even messaged him about it, but it does no good because the article persists. Maybe one day I will write it up again and publish it on my blog where I can link it but I'm nobody and Flexner has been around a long time so the chances of me convincing people are slim. Best I can say is go through the article point by point and evaluate what he's saying against what you know about moisture and wood movement. If you buy what he's selling then roll the dice. If the table is in a climate controlled space or a mild climate where moisture levels are relatively stable, it will probably will be fine. If the wood is mostly quartersawn, it will probably be fine. If you want to test his claim -- glue up a panel, finish only the top, suspend it over sawhorses and put a heat source or fan blowing on it.
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Dec 22, 2016 20:12
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On that topic, I plan to finish all the bits on my workbench (top and bottom) with 2 coats of a 1:1:1 mix of boiled linseed oil, mineral spirits and oil-based varnish. Can I just leave each coat to cure for a day or should I wipe and sand in between? The thinner indicates to me that I could just slap it on and let God sort it out. Also I have a brick of beeswax - would it be worth scrubbing a coat of that on top as well or would it overly enslicken the surface?
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Dec 22, 2016 21:07
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wormil posted:I was waiting for someone to link this. This is a case where "debunking the myth" becomes the myth. Like when it started going around that the slot in threaded inserts is not for a screwdriver, it is, and those were credible, educated people, spreading that myth. Flexner is basing this on his experience refinishing antiques but he is only seeing pieces that survived, not the thousands of pieces that didn't. Flexner is wrong. It's contrary to my own experience, contrary to what I know about wood movement, and contrary to his own published work. I don't know how many times I've read on woodworking forums that someone is building a table and their top bowed or cupped, soon after they admit they only finished the top or they laid the bare panel atop their saw or workbench cutting off air to one side. I've written quite a bit on it and debunked him point by point, even messaged him about it, but it does no good because the article persists. Maybe one day I will write it up again and publish it on my blog where I can link it but I'm nobody and Flexner has been around a long time so the chances of me convincing people are slim. Best I can say is go through the article point by point and evaluate what he's saying against what you know about moisture and wood movement. If you buy what he's selling then roll the dice. If the table is in a climate controlled space or a mild climate where moisture levels are relatively stable, it will probably will be fine. If the wood is mostly quartersawn, it will probably be fine. If you want to test his claim -- glue up a panel, finish only the top, suspend it over sawhorses and put a heat source or fan blowing on it. What parts exactly are you debunking? I can't parse where you're saying he's wrong. You make your thesis and the next time I run into Bob, I'll tell him about it.
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Dec 22, 2016 21:47
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Mr. Mambold posted:What parts exactly are you debunking? I can't parse where you're saying he's wrong. You make your thesis and the next time I run into Bob, I'll tell him about it. The thesis is presumably the contrary to what the article claimed, viz. that only finishing one side doesn't cause the wood to warp. I admit I'm skeptical of the article too, just from a theoretical standpoint. Sure a damaged finish will be more water-permeable than an undamaged finish, but it's still going to be a lot less water-permeable to unfinished wood. So, all else being equal, wood that is only finished on one side is going to absorb more water on the other side, leading to warping. The fact that you may be wiping down the finished surface with water frequently (in the case of a table, say) doesn't really change that equation; it's just a separate potential source of warping damage.
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Dec 22, 2016 21:53
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Well if the experts don't agree with me then the "so-called experts" are wrong. Just make a video of you doing exactly what you suggest others do if you want to debunk him Wormil. GEMorris fucked around with this message at 22:23 on Dec 22, 2016 |
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Dec 22, 2016 22:20
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If you want your wooden tabletops to stay true, make offerings of beer and herb potage to the tree spirits who live in the grain. It's simple
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Dec 22, 2016 22:24
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Well the child size roubo project is nearing something looking like a bench, tomorrow I will hopefully be done with all the legs and I can glue on the front slats and complete the angled "mortise", then start the job of, planing, sanding and finishing it (not sure what I will use).
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Dec 22, 2016 22:25
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His Divine Shadow posted:Well the child size roubo project is nearing something looking like a bench, tomorrow I will hopefully be done with all the legs and I can glue on the front slats and complete the angled "mortise", then start the job of, planing, sanding and finishing it (not sure what I will use). I wish any of my nephews or niece were at all interested in woodworking because I would totally do something like this. My eldest nephew looked at me like I had three heads when I gifted my old tool belt to him.
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Dec 22, 2016 23:11
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His Divine Shadow posted:Well the child size roubo project is nearing something looking like a bench, tomorrow I will hopefully be done with all the legs and I can glue on the front slats and complete the angled "mortise", then start the job of, planing, sanding and finishing it (not sure what I will use). This is super cool and I hope you keep posting about this. My nephews are only 2 but they love tools and I want to do woodworking with them when they are old enough. Last time I babysat one of them we watched youtube woodworking videos for an hour. I think he mostly likes the saw and tool noises, but that is enough at his age.
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Dec 22, 2016 23:47
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Mr. Mambold posted:I'd never use red oak for anything food related. So you should probably scrap the whole thing, or go with your first bet polyurethane and use it as a sweater drying rack (still not optimal) Hmm. Any particular reason why?
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Dec 22, 2016 23:53
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Elder Postsman posted:Hmm. Any particular reason why? Open pores.
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Dec 22, 2016 23:56
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Mr. Mambold posted:Open pores. Oh. Ooooh. Welp, I'll give it to her and secretly re-make it out of something else before she has a chance to use it.
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Dec 23, 2016 00:23
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