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ineptmule posted:I bought some GW Agrellan Badlands to get a cracked desert texture on my army's bases. My first two test bases it's dried just kind of grainy, like sandy paint. I've tried a third and put it on waaaay thicker, and will check on it in the morning, but does anyone have any tips for this stuff? Currently it doesn't look at all how I expected. There appears only to be YouTube vids available for the finer textures (and older) Agrellan Earth, which is much more of a liquid, I'm just struggling to see how this texture of stuff is ever going to dry right. In addition to what's already been said, try putting down a first layer of some slightly darker paint on the base, then a layer of pva glue, then the agrellan on top of the dry glue. Your cracking will become much more dramatic.
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Dec 26, 2016 04:48
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PantsOptional posted:In addition to what's already been said, try putting down a first layer of some slightly darker paint on the base, then a layer of pva glue, then the agrellan on top of the dry glue. Your cracking will become much more dramatic. I'll have to try this. I find if you don't at least prime, your dramatic cracks will just fall off actually.
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Dec 26, 2016 05:00
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I found out the hard way that Acrylic Texture Paste will also make your cracks deeper. Unfortunately, you need to color the texture paste first, otherwise the cracks come out white in the bottom. 
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Dec 26, 2016 05:12
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ineptmule posted:I bought some GW Agrellan Badlands to get a cracked desert texture on my army's bases. My first two test bases it's dried just kind of grainy, like sandy paint. I've tried a third and put it on waaaay thicker, and will check on it in the morning, but does anyone have any tips for this stuff? Currently it doesn't look at all how I expected. There appears only to be YouTube vids available for the finer textures (and older) Agrellan Earth, which is much more of a liquid, I'm just struggling to see how this texture of stuff is ever going to dry right. It's been said already but my experience with that Agrellan Earth has been a real need to absolutely glob it on, not just a thick coat but actually a loaded brush pressed onto the base rather than brushed so you get almost piles of it. These will make the bigger flakes. The other question that springs to mind is that are you leaving it to dry somewhere cold? I use artist paste for my bases to break up the flat surface but as I am banished to paint in the little summer house at the end of the garden I have found that it took about a week to harden. I wonder if the cracking is dependent on a fairly quick drying time and needs to be put somewhere warm.
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Dec 26, 2016 08:21
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Cheers for the feedback on the crackle paint everyone. This is on top of a primed mini's base with two coats of a dark red-brown primer laid down before putting the texture on (as I expected the cracks to reveal what's beneath.) I'll try the PVA layer although three coats before putting on the texture sounds like a huge pain in the arse when I have probably a hundred plus minis, and their movement trays, to base. I'll experiment a little more but if I can't get a consistent crackle I'll just have to accept the dusty/grainy look. It's pretty cool as it is.
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Dec 26, 2016 11:13
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I don't even use a brush with Martian Ironearth, I use an old popsicle stick to just glop it on right out of the can. A sculpting tool with one of those slim dull knife bits is convenient for spreading it into more narrow spots like around boots.
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Dec 26, 2016 11:13
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Might try that too. Just to be clear, this is not Agrellan Earth which appears to be much more of a liquidy kind of paint, but the newer, supposedly larger cracks and thicker Agrellan Badland. The texture out of the pot is just like very sandy paint, very little liquidity to it at all. (Might mean using a spreading tool like you describe even better.) Edit: Update, as I know you will all be  like crazy - the thicker applied stuff has got some definite cracks in it and looks quite like what I hoped for, although the surface of the crackled flakes is still quite rough. Using a spreader might help get the surface smoother before leaving it to dry.
Squibsy fucked around with this message at 11:47 on Dec 26, 2016 |
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Dec 26, 2016 11:22
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These are the results I got from the new Martian Ironcrust with a ~2 mm thick layer (dried to 1mm). Didn't notice any difference between drying it under a lamp and just at room temperature. 
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Dec 26, 2016 11:52
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That looks quite a lot like my latest result. I was hoping for the top surface to be a little smoother and will try spreading it more carefully.
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Dec 26, 2016 11:56
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A quick drybrushing and some wash inside the cracks tends to make them stand out a bit more as well.
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Dec 26, 2016 12:23
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Yeah just a slight drybrush makes the texture on those pop so much better. For the 'rusty Martian outback' look I recommend Troll Slayer Orange. Also, if you have both Martian Ironearth and Martian Ironcrust available, you should try a patchwork of both. First glop big patches of Ironcrust, let that dry, and then dab Ironearth over the non-coated areas. Patches of rough raised earth mixed in with flatter cracked areas. Also somebody mentioned it earlier but you should probably paint the area under Ironearth with a darker brown color, especially if you prime your bases white or gray. Otherwise you'll end up with the white peeking from the cracks.
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Dec 26, 2016 12:53
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Yeah a bright orange drybrush really helps, but that tip about using the other texture paint to fill in seems like a protip, will have to try that later.
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Dec 26, 2016 17:53
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Are there any quick cheat ways to paint black armour for space marines?
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Dec 26, 2016 17:59
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Gyro Zeppeli posted:Are there any quick cheat ways to paint black armour for space marines? Super cheap block-painting way: prime black, drybrush dark grey on edges, then medium grey, then light grey. Use black wash over area, possibly twice if you want a really dark look to it. The fancier method to above uses edge highlighting, which isn't quick but it looks better.
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Dec 26, 2016 18:08
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If you want a quick pure black look that still lets detail show, a flat black prime followed by a metallic silver drybrush is my lazy go-to for weapons.
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Dec 26, 2016 18:11
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Prime black, base coat black, fine edge highlight vmc black grey, wash black wash.
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Dec 26, 2016 18:43
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AFAIK if you're using the new crackle texture paint uniformly it's gonna be pretty smooth. Vary it with a few thicker bits and those should produce more cracks.
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Dec 26, 2016 20:35
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Succumb to the superiority of Vallejo textures.
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Dec 27, 2016 01:10
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Yeah, they are incredibly cheaper. You don't get a crackle texture from Vallejo (that I know of) but it's easy to go to a Michael's and buy some Liquitex. About the only time I'd recommend the GW versions would be if you only need a little bit of it.
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Dec 27, 2016 01:26
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Slimnoid posted:Super cheap block-painting way: prime black, drybrush dark grey on edges, then medium grey, then light grey. Use black wash over area, possibly twice if you want a really dark look to it. Thanks! I'm probably just gonna do the drybrush/wash twice technique. I'm going to be using gold for most of the details anyway, I'm painting Black Legion chaos marines, but just drybrushing something like this should be enough to just pick out the highlights. Edge highlighting probably would look better, but I'm really bad at super fine brushwork like that.
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Dec 27, 2016 01:30
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Vallejo Black Lava 
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Dec 27, 2016 01:30
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I bought some deep discount Sigmarines from a local comic shop liquidating their Warham stock. I want to paint them like ancient stone statues. What are some things I could do as a novice to simulate weathering on stone and to make painted parts look faded and washed away? Any good product for making them look mossy?
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Dec 27, 2016 01:47
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mango sentinel posted:I bought some deep discount Sigmarines from a local comic shop liquidating their Warham stock. I want to paint them like ancient stone statues. What are some things I could do as a novice to simulate weathering on stone and to make painted parts look faded and washed away? Any good product for making them look mossy? For the porous stone texture you can simply sand the surfaces with a gritty sandpaper (don't go overboard), which will show up well after a wash. For moss you can get green flock material from any hobby store, put glue on the area you want to moss, and apply. I'm not sure on fade and eashed but I imagine some muted/grey washes could help.
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Dec 27, 2016 02:08
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mango sentinel posted:I bought some deep discount Sigmarines from a local comic shop liquidating their Warham stock. I want to paint them like ancient stone statues. What are some things I could do as a novice to simulate weathering on stone and to make painted parts look faded and washed away? Any good product for making them look mossy? I'm not an expert but model railway guides will have stuff on how to paint realistic looking weathered stone. As for Moss, they sell hobby moss which you stick on with some white hobby glue. I think it's usually actual moss so it has a very realistic look out of the box. My one tip would be to use it sparingly!
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Dec 27, 2016 02:15
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Also, two easier questions: For any of you guys using base inserts, where do you like to go? I'm looking for some cobblestone streets. Second, where do you like to go for head bits? I'm looking for knight helmets for those sigmarines, though skulls may be nice too.
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Dec 27, 2016 07:15
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mango sentinel posted:Also, two easier questions: I used to use Secret Weapon Miniatures stuff. I still like them, and I still have a bunch to use, but I found something much less expensive. https://www.deathraydesigns.com is a laser-cut mdf terrain outfit, but they also do acrylic. A stroke of genius imo was to make base inserts out of laser-cut acrylic, as they are incredibly inexpensive. I was even able to ask over email for them to cut the base inserts slightly large to accommodate mdf disc bases, and to cut me up some mdf to fit, so I'd have perfectly round bases instead of just base inserts. And they did it pretty cheap, too. Here's an example of mine:  And here's an example off the store:  For a pricing example, those curved flagstone bases? 15 dollars gets you 48x 30mm base inserts 15x 40mm base inserts 10x 50mm base inserts Resin base inserts are minimum like 60 cents EACH
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Dec 27, 2016 07:44
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Wow, everything on that site looks brilliant. Thanks.
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Dec 27, 2016 11:04
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 Practicing with NMM. I was using the Vallejo NMM kit. Clearly, I still need a hell of a lot of practice.
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Dec 27, 2016 12:08
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I think your NMM looks pretty good there dude
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Dec 27, 2016 13:27
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Not bad, man. Practice is going to be useful anyway, but you at least have the basics down. I will say it looks like you should probably thin your paints a little, as at least the kneepads look a bit chunky, and you could definitely work on smoothing out the transitions. However, I could tell what you were trying to do even before I scrolled down to see that you were practicing, so mission accomplished?
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Dec 27, 2016 21:06
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After being afraid to paint some stuff for a long time I've buckled down and am refusing to let perfect be the enemy of good. It is very difficult.
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Dec 27, 2016 21:34
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mango sentinel posted:After being afraid to paint some stuff for a long time I've buckled down and am refusing to let perfect be the enemy of good. It is very difficult. Better than my problem letting sloppy be the enemy of table ready
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Dec 27, 2016 21:36
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mango sentinel posted:After being afraid to paint some stuff for a long time I've buckled down and am refusing to let perfect be the enemy of good. It is very difficult. I have a similar problem when I paint. Learning to compromise between a finished model done as well as I can manage, and a finished army I can look at in the cabinet or on the table and be happy with isn't as easy as it sounds.
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Dec 27, 2016 21:49
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JackMann posted:
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Dec 27, 2016 22:05
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mango sentinel posted:After being afraid to paint some stuff for a long time I've buckled down and am refusing to let perfect be the enemy of good. It is very difficult. Never let this hold you back, especially when you're only paint with acrylic. All the layers of acrylic and oil paint in the world can still be stripped without damaging the model. Have you made any progress on your blue tau dudes? I loved the shade you picked and think they would look amazing with some drybrush highlighting.
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Dec 27, 2016 22:17
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Lovely Joe Stalin posted:I have a similar problem when I paint. Learning to compromise between a finished model done as well as I can manage, and a finished army I can look at in the cabinet or on the table and be happy with isn't as easy as it sounds. I've started painting my infinity guys and I'm also doing them one by one. I'm actually amazed at how many people paint their infinity teams like uniform warhammer armies since they're all individual operatives at the top of their fields.
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Dec 27, 2016 22:24
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Everytime this comes up I end up writing some form of this rant, I think the last time was in the death thread or the botw thread: GW and most other mainstream miniatures companies have greatly poisoned the idea of painting miniatures by going about teaching people the wrong ways. If you want good, TTQ miniatures then the kind of ultra technique focused high end tutorials pimped by basically every minis company that sells paints is the exact opposite of what you want. It's like deciding you want to paint a mural of Mickey Mouse in your kids bedroom and starting by taking a high level art class about impressionist water color technique. It's not just putting a cart before the horse, it's putting the entire NYC subway system, plus like three roadblocks and a police checkpoint. You want to learn how to paint TTQ well, here's the important poo poo: Brush Control: Honestly this isn't as important as you may imagine, there's a lot of ways to get around sloppy paint applications but it helps a ton. Color choice, tone and coherency: Ok this is honestly the single most important thing ever when it comes to painting and the fact that NO ONE EVER MENTIONS IT RELATING TO MINIATURES is loving stupid and dumb. For this example we're going to use two great paintings that will serve our purposes well: Rembrant's The Night Watch and Rockwell's Southern Justice. Both of these are great works and share a really important element that helps carry over to miniatures: they have a very unified tone. All the colors in most of them shade to the same color (dark brown in each) . The Rockwell is more dramatic and the Rembrandt is more subdued but they both do this. This creates a very subtle but vastly important element within all the figures in the paintings: it makes them look like they belong near each other. Even though the figures in the Night Watch are wearing very different colors of clothing (black, brown, cream, blue, etc) they still maintain a subtle level of cohesion and fit together because the overall effect of shading everything to the same dark brown makes things look like they are lit by the same light source (which is dramatically played in the Rockwell as well). The other thing it does is draw your eyes to the bright elements of the painting that differ from the established tone. In the Night Watch it's the leader of the party, the man in cream who almost seems to be lit by an angelic glow emphasizing his importance. We don't need any context to know that he is without a doubt the leader of this party. In the Rockwell the element is the blood, which is itself drawn in a completely different almost startlingly realistic art style, making the painting itself look like blood has been splashed onto it, stretching the fourth wall between the subjects of the art and the people viewing it. This comes around when painting miniatures because so many times I see people who are competent painters choose color selections that clash horribly with each other and shade to not just completely different colors but completely different areas of the color wheel. You can generally assume you can get away with one color per mini that doesn't fit into your color theme, but you have to remember that whatever becomes that color is now the focal point or at least will draw attention. If you painted a figure in, lets say: ochre pants, a red shirt, black shoes, and accessories and belts in a darker brown leather then you'd be shading everything to a deep brown (or using a wash to get the same effect). You could then paint the feather in his hat, or his armband, or something of that nature a bright blue or green, which will add a nice pop of color. Don't use too many colors: I don't care if it's not realistic for all of your figures leather gear to be the same color, limited color choice reduces the amount of business your figure will have and how busy your figure can be is directly related to how good of a painter your are and if you're taking my advice you aren't there yet. But seriously, limit your colors, and make sure they go together, color wheels are your friend (but you can totally shade blue and green with dark brown, that's a thing!). Washes, inks, dips, etc: Like, seriously, this is how you should paint, the results are killer, especially if you choose your colors right. The only thing you have to do every time is make sure to USE MATTE VARNISH. Dipping without Matte looks like rear end, dipping with it looks amazing. Same with inks, same with washes, they all save time and will help you a lot. The most important part of these, honestly, is that they will help establish a division between the different parts of your mini, if you're not good at lining (IE leaving small amounts of darker color between larger areas of color) this will help break up big color swaths on your minis. But in all seriousness if you choose colors well and apply them decently, base coat -> dip -> base coat -> matte varnish will carry you far.
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Dec 27, 2016 23:22
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Neurolimal posted:Never let this hold you back, especially when you're only paint with acrylic. All the layers of acrylic and oil paint in the world can still be stripped without damaging the model. I got the darker ones stripped and basic armor painted but burned out because I found assembly line painting boring, then started assembling Malifaux stuff, and stopped painting for a few weeks. Currently I'm working on a single Space Marine from the kill team box and a Reaper drider. I'm really happy with how the spider bit came out but the torso is not so great and I'm a little messy on the Spess Marine. Once I finish those two I'll go back and finish up the Tau. I'm real scared of dry brushing because every time I try instead of bringing it edges it just hits an entire surface. Dunno if it's brush selection or what I'm doing wrong.
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Dec 27, 2016 23:36
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mango sentinel posted:I got the darker ones stripped and basic armor painted but burned out because I found assembly line painting boring, then started assembling Malifaux stuff, and stopped painting for a few weeks. Currently I'm working on a single Space Marine from the kill team box and a Reaper drider. I'm really happy with how the spider bit came out but the torso is not so great and I'm a little messy on the Spess Marine. Once I finish those two I'll go back and finish up the Tau. Yeah, assembly painting is super efficient for coherent armies, but I feel like it wipes out any character from the models and turns it into a slog. When I have identical pieces to work on I'l prime and basecoat them together, but beyond that I'l take my time on individuals. Are you making sure to get all the paint off the brush? Ideally you use a flat brush, load the brush with paint (dont use any thinner in the paint), spend a minute or two with a dry tissue wiping off as much paint as you can (at the end you should have what just looks like a tinted brush), then you just keep flicking it over edges and corners so that specks of embedded paint catch on them. The mini should also be dry, and if any gets somewhere you dont like don't be afraid to wipe it off; without any thinner it shouldn't leave much streaking after a few wipes.
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Dec 27, 2016 23:42
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El Estrago Bonito posted:This comes around when painting miniatures because so many times I see people who are competent painters choose color selections that clash horribly with each other and shade to not just completely different colors but completely different areas of the color wheel. You can generally assume you can get away with one color per mini that doesn't fit into your color theme, but you have to remember that whatever becomes that color is now the focal point or at least will draw attention. These are my latest ships on my custom X wing mat.  Older ship, but imagine I took a pic with this monstrosity included for more raw eye searing action. 
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Dec 28, 2016 00:02
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