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More sanding today but I think I got it more or less now... Mixing up a small portion of dewaxed shellac, 2lbs cut.
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Dec 27, 2016 15:39
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Last night I drilled a bunch of 3/4" dog holes through my 3.25" bench top but it seems that my holdfasts don't seem to bite securely. I'm not sure if my 12/16" auger bit is actually a little bigger than indicated or I'm out of plumb with the holes but it's becoming a real pain.
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Dec 27, 2016 16:30
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Skippy Granola posted:Last night I drilled a bunch of 3/4" dog holes through my 3.25" bench top but it seems that my holdfasts don't seem to bite securely. Poor augury, hmmm. This does not bode well.
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Dec 27, 2016 16:46
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Skippy Granola posted:Last night I drilled a bunch of 3/4" dog holes through my 3.25" bench top but it seems that my holdfasts don't seem to bite securely. Too much thickness can make them not clamp, 3 1/4" is sort of borderline too thick. Sometimes they'll mysteriously work on thicker benchtops but not always. My Gramercy holdfasts didn't work all that well (4 1/4" bench) until I counterbored from the bottom so they were clamping in effectively 2 3/4" Roughing them up with sandpaper around their circumference helps, and exactly 3/4" holes. Also hitting them directly on top.
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Dec 27, 2016 16:48
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Hubis posted:Great, I was looking at those as well. That confirms some of the questions I had about the Narex stuff -- I'd alternatingly heard it was great quality for the price, and that it had a host of issues like not holding a good edge. I have the 8 pc set and use quite a few of them. I see they offer a 12 pc set now. I would have bought that if it was available at the time. I love my narex chisels and have no complaints at all.
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Dec 27, 2016 16:54
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Hypnolobster posted:Too much thickness can make them not clamp, 3 1/4" is sort of borderline too thick. Sometimes they'll mysteriously work on thicker benchtops but not always. My Gramercy holdfasts didn't work all that well (4 1/4" bench) until I counterbored from the bottom so they were clamping in effectively 2 3/4" Son of a fish that makes sense- they worked fine in my old 1" bench. I'll hog out an inch from the bottom and see if that helps
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Dec 27, 2016 16:58
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Hubis posted:
No, you don't need all that many widths, some have a preference for having a ton of chisel sizes but for me they just make a ton of clutter. One reason you'll hear from people advocating for larger sets is they have to stop and sharpen less often, but when they do they have to sharpen a lot more. I feel like this leads to bad habits, stopping to sharpen shouldn't be seen as some huge inconvenience, but just a step you have to take to continue to getting the best performance, and letting a bunch of this game pile up to be sharpened is going to make one avoid it even more. TLDR you only need the 4 and you'll need a mortise chisel well before you need any other speciality chisel.
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Dec 27, 2016 17:37
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3/8 & 3/4 inch I use the most. I need a 1/8 but keep putting off buying one and I would use a 1/16 if they made one. A 1 inch or larger is incredibly useful for parring tenons. 1/4, 5/8 and 1/2 just get used for general purpose stuff like parring dowels or chamfering. So you can get by with 2 or 3 but I like buying sets. I have a set of bevel edge and a partial set of firmers. Never got around to buying mortise chisels but I probably will soon so if anyone has a recommendation on good quality, medium tier mortise chisels.
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Dec 27, 2016 19:07
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I got a small (9") band saw for Christmas and I'm so excited to make some cool stuff for my son. I have a lot of fond memories of my grandfather making me toys when I was little.
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Dec 27, 2016 20:19
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So sell me on your vise setups. I am thinking about doing a leg vise on the bench, but I haven't decided on hardware. It is either what I want and more than I want to spend, or cheap and a compromise. The end is getting a modified wagon vise and the bench is going to be a knockdown moravian based bench that will be on the smaller side. Probably 6'x2' due to limited shop space and the need to move it around and potentially break it down and store it at times. Hopefully will be getting most of the wood this week so I can start on the top. Edit: Some more research led me to this outfit making wood screws. That may be what I am looking for for a leg vise. The rest of it is simple construction that I can make myself and the screw is very reasonably priced. http://www.thetraditionalcarpenter.com/?product=18-vise-screw-basic Atticus_1354 fucked around with this message at 22:41 on Dec 27, 2016 |
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Dec 27, 2016 21:27
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Ray Isles mortise chisels aren't the most expensive, but I probably wouldn't call them mid-tier (on price or quality) That being said I love mine. On leg vises: I have a German made metal screw which I like, but that choice was due to my budget at the time. If I were to build a new bench now I'd definitely go with a leg vise again but I'd have a hard time deciding between bench crafted hardware or a wooden screw from Erie or one of the other suppliers.
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Dec 27, 2016 22:18
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GEMorris posted:On leg vises: I have a German made metal screw which I like, but that choice was due to my budget at the time. If I were to build a new bench now I'd definitely go with a leg vise again but I'd have a hard time deciding between bench crafted hardware or a wooden screw from Erie or one of the other suppliers. How wide does your's open and do you ever wish it would go more or for any reason wish the screw was shorter? I am trying to decide on screw length.
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Dec 27, 2016 22:43
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In the process of sanding down a lacquer coat, I accidentally got rid of the grain pattern in the lacquered wood completely. Oops! Is this considered a gently caress-up or a design choice? My box looks like plastic now. I also put way too much lacquer in the last coat so let's hope it doesn't leave runs and sags all over the thing. I felt like I had to put on a lot to get rid of the dim, sprinkly texture during the spray process. The last time I left too little, the finish did end up dim. I'm not quite sure how to stop that from happening without spraying the entire surface wet with lacquer.
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Dec 28, 2016 01:38
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Well, I hope you folks are ready to feel a lot better about yourselves. This is a honestly pretty shameful Roubo in terms of fit and finish. It feels super nice to work on though and I can't shift it even with aggressive planing. Construction is all stud-grade SPF 2x4s variously laminated and mortised and tenoned to each other. The short ends are all glued and drawbored with red oak pegs, while the long ends are just kind of friction fit in there because for the life of me I couldn't get the god damned base out of the top after I test fit it together. C'est la vie.  Big thanks to Hypnolobster for fixing my holdfast problem - back-boring the holes with a forstner bit, while messy, was just what I needed for a firm bite. The lamination is not that great, honestly, but I just kind of mashed 2x4s together and let God sort 'em out. All things considered it's a pretty sturdy hunk of wood and glue. You can see the Roubo-style tenons are not a great through fit, which was mainly a function of trimming and twisting and trying to make it fit. I made the mistake of chopping the mortises in the top before the base was together, which caused a lot of trouble once everything was glued up. Definitely lesson learned. The top itself is planed pretty flat - definitely not perfect but I was working with a Jack and Smoother plane. Not making excuses, mind you - it's still not an attractive bench, nor is it well made.  Kindly ignore the bad spacing on the slats at the bottom. The whole thing really got away from me. The vise is inset flush with the front, and down maybe 1/4" from the top to give me some space to plane down the surface in future. It hasn't bothered me at all with the small amount of work I've done with it. Anyway, I guess the whole thing was a series of rookie mistakes that happened to result in a mild success. I'm not really proud of my work but I'm satisfied that it's sturdy, flat, and holds my work in a versatile way. Thanks again for the guidance and I apologise for disregarding most of it.
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Dec 28, 2016 01:46
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Atticus_1354 posted:How wide does your's open and do you ever wish it would go more or for any reason wish the screw was shorter? I am trying to decide on screw length. Mine opens over a foot iirc (sorry can't go check right this second) and I don't think I've ever used more than a third of that capacity.
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Dec 28, 2016 01:54
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GEMorris posted:Mine opens over a foot iirc (sorry can't go check right this second) and I don't think I've ever used more than a third of that capacity. That's fine. I think I am just going to get the 18" screw. That won't give me the total 18" with jaws and mount, but should give me a lot. The extra length may be annoying when disassembled but otherwise shouldn't matter. Going to call the lumberyard tomorrow and get some board ft prices on walnut, hard maple, and a couple other woods so I can start pricing this out. I was going to use pine, but some Christmas money may allow me to splurge a bit on nicer wood.
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Dec 28, 2016 02:04
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Atticus_1354 posted:I was going to use pine, but some Christmas money may allow me to splurge a bit on nicer wood. I don't really get making a bench out if really nice materials. It's going to get banged upas soon as you start using it, so why spend extra on nice wood? Unless you really need the extra hardness, I guess.
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Dec 28, 2016 02:12
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Used a plane for the first time. Got blisters from planing for the first time, as well.
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Dec 28, 2016 02:16
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Skippy Granola posted:Anyway, I guess the whole thing was a series of rookie mistakes that happened to result in a mild success. I'm not really proud of my work but I'm satisfied that it's sturdy, flat, and holds my work in a versatile way. This rules. Nice work and nice, honest post. Phone posted:Used a plane for the first time. First couple times I managed to get a good wood burn on my hand from dragging the edge of my hand on the wood on every pass. Lucky it wasn't splinters, I guess. What kind of plane did you get?
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Dec 28, 2016 02:22
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I don't really get making a bench out if really nice materials. It's going to get banged upas soon as you start using it, so why spend extra on nice wood? Unless you really need the extra hardness, I guess. The walnut and oak will be for supporting the end vise and making the leg vise and small parts like wedges. So that isn't much wood and will make a stronger product and look nice as accents. The top and leg material will be determined by price since it is the bulk of the material, but the extra hardness is a big pro in my opinion. Ash is another option that may better balance the price/hardness dilemma. But I don't know what the local availability is. Plus this bench will have a tool tray so it isn't as much material as a lot of other benches like a roubo so the price difference won't be as dramatic. I plan to do 12" wide on the front edge (also allows me to run it through our planer if I want) and about 4" on the back edge of the tool tray instead of a single board. Just for a little extra support with wider projects or if I clamp to the back. The bottom of the tool tray will probably be plywood just for simplicity and price. 
Atticus_1354 fucked around with this message at 02:51 on Dec 28, 2016 |
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Dec 28, 2016 02:24
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ColdPie posted:First couple times I managed to get a good wood burn on my hand from dragging the edge of my hand on the wood on every pass. Lucky it wasn't splinters, I guess. What kind of plane did you get? I got one for each hand. Both blisters are in meaty parts, but on opposite sides. Can't pop them either, ughhhh. Stanley No. 6 from GEMorris. I got some boards pretty flat with it, so I can't complain too much for getting a flat-ish side on a 2x12x6.
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Dec 28, 2016 03:13
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So I ended up with a extra day off right before the holidays and decided at the last minute to make some cutting boards. I stopped at our local hardwood supplier and bent over. I mean purchased the fine selection of wood pictured below. I've never made cutting boards before, but I figured it wouldn't be too bad. It took ~14 hours from rough lumber to finished boards. The finish is 3oz Mineral Oil and 2oz Bees wax. I gave them out to family members and everyone seemed to love them. Next time, I will make thinner boards if I do this style. If I can find the time, I want to try a few end-grain boards with the remaining wood. This was the first time I've been able to use the wood shop for actual wood working, not just packaging/shipping in months.     the spyder fucked around with this message at 06:52 on Jan 3, 2017 |
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Dec 28, 2016 03:22
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Minorkos posted:In the process of sanding down a lacquer coat, I accidentally got rid of the grain pattern in the lacquered wood completely. Oops! Is this considered a gently caress-up or a design choice? My box looks like plastic now. Actually, a follow up on this. the last coat has dried. anyone know the reason why it turned out like this?  It looks like the lower part of the box has gone "dim" when reflecting light, but the top side hasn't. It doesn't look any different when not reflecting light, though. I had some problems with the finish on the lower part so I had to sand and recoat it a lot, so maybe that has something to do with it. Or maybe I just sprayed the last lacquer coat wrong somehow. also yeah I'm pretty sure I put on way too much lacquer so now it looks kinda goofy. but it was all for practice anyway
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Dec 28, 2016 05:12
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These planes have been sitting unused for years back at my parents' house. So I brought them home and figure I'll find a use for them one day. The Craftsman (no idea what the model it is) was apparently my grandfather's. The Stanley block plane was purchased by my brother when he was messing around with a DIY guitar kit years and years ago. So, my questions are, what is my best option for sharpening the blades and honing the plane soles? I've never done this before, so I've only got a few minutes of youtube videos and searching under my belt. Will I have to splurge on a Veritas MKII and diamond stones to idiot-proof this, or can I get by with a cheaper guide and some sand paper stuck to some ceramic tiles I have left over?    
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Dec 28, 2016 06:41
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MetaJew posted:So, my questions are, what is my best option for sharpening the blades and honing the plane soles? I've never done this before, so I've only got a few minutes of youtube videos and searching under my belt. Will I have to splurge on a Veritas MKII and diamond stones to idiot-proof this, or can I get by with a cheaper guide and some sand paper stuck to some ceramic tiles I have left over? Ceramic tile, sandpaper and one of the cheap Robert Larson honing guides (with about an hour worth of modification with a file) is a great and inexpensive way to go. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QBHd7x6ySSQ I used a Veritas MKII for a good while with waterstones (and always meant to get diamond stones so I didn't have to soak them), but they're too irritating for me in a shop situation without a dedicated sink/sharpening station. I eventually moved to a Worksharp WS3000 and I can't recommend it enough. It's fast, always setup and doesn't involve water or oil. It's what I should have done from the beginning instead of getting the Veritas guide. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 07:12 on Dec 28, 2016 |
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Dec 28, 2016 06:56
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Hypnolobster posted:Ceramic tile, sandpaper and one of the cheap Robert Larson honing guides (with about an hour worth of modification with a file) is a great and inexpensive way to go. Okay, that's good to know. I have poo poo for work space in my garage at the moment. It's still a mess from me slowly renovating my house and installing trim. However, I did inherit a knockdown- of sorts work bench that if I clean it off I might have enough room to work on these planes. What sort of sand paper should I be using for this-- Grits, adhesive type, etc and where do you guys mostly buy this stuff?
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Dec 28, 2016 07:09
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MetaJew posted:Okay, that's good to know. I have poo poo for work space in my garage at the moment. It's still a mess from me slowly renovating my house and installing trim. However, I did inherit a knockdown- of sorts work bench that if I clean it off I might have enough room to work on these planes. The lower the grit number, the more abrasive. It would depend on how flat they already are as to where you would need to start. Once you have knocked the rust off, get a sharpie and scribble on the sole of the plane, then run it over some 80 or 120 grit paper. Use spray adhesive to stick the paper to something flat, like an offcut of granite kitchen bench, or some thick float glass or a cast iron table. That will tell you where and how much you will need to work on. You can get spray adhesive and sand paper from a hardware store. You will probably need 80, 120 and 240. After that, it will depend on how shiny you want the end result to be. Each time you step up a grit level, all you are trying to do is remove the marks left from the last grit level.
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Dec 28, 2016 07:29
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MetaJew posted:What sort of sand paper should I be using for this-- Grits, adhesive type, etc and where do you guys mostly buy this stuff? https://amazon.com/dp/B000CQ49X6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_FR1yyb0XA7K0P Finish with stropping with leather glued to a piece of MDF or similarly flat wood, rubbed with cheap green compound like this and you can get a nice polish. https://amazon.com/dp/B0000DD35C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_LV1yybMHS43QH https://amazon.com/dp/B0154F7FKS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_SV1yybCJS95F8 Handplanes also need to be flat, and that can happen with the same sandpaper setup. There are millions of videos and articles about this, but this is a decent one to get you started. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RlYDipD_5s4 Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 07:41 on Dec 28, 2016 |
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Dec 28, 2016 07:35
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Thanks for the tips, guys. This doesn't seem too difficult, once I have a guide I'll pick up some sandpaper and see if I can clean these up. I've got a tree slabbed up and drying in my shed that will hopefully, one day, become a dining table. I'm currently working on making a somewhat inexpensive barn door for my master bath since the in-swing door that was there previously was a mess and took up a bunch of space in the bathroom. It's not fine wood working, but I think it looks pretty nice so far. This is just some cabinet grade 3/4" plywood. If it were solid wood I think it would look really nice stained, but I'll just be painting it white and moving on to the next project.  
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Dec 28, 2016 07:54
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Picked up a couple books from Lost Art Press - the Essential Woodworker and The Anarchist's Design Book and I basically devoured the second in a night. Big fan of it so far in terms of readability and explanation. Now I just need to finish unpacking my new workspace and finish that bench.
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Dec 28, 2016 10:33
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Falcon2001 posted:Picked up a couple books from Lost Art Press - the Essential Woodworker and The Anarchist's Design Book and I basically devoured the second in a night. Big fan of it so far in terms of readability and explanation. I know im going to trigger the poo poo out of some folk by saying this but I think Anarchists Design Book is the most important book about woodworking that's been published in the last 20-ish years. As for sharpening I use the PSA backed 3M sandpaper sold here mounted to a granite tile, and I hold my tools with a Veritas MK2 jig. I really like this setup as it doesn't take up nearly as much space as stones did, and is thus less intrusive, and thus makes it not a pain every time I need to stop and re-hone an edge.
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Dec 28, 2016 14:07
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GEMorris posted:I know im going to trigger the poo poo out of some folk by saying this but I think Anarchists Design Book is the most important book about woodworking that's been published in the last 20-ish years. How come? To both - why most important, and why is it going to set people off?
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Dec 28, 2016 21:14
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Magres posted:How come? To both - why most important, and why is it going to set people off? Why is it the most important book in my mind? Because it dives into the "why" to build furniture in a modern context that includes class considerations in a way I've not seen anyone else ever tackle (he does tackle consumer capitalism as well but I feel I've also seen other authors do that). That the "how" includes so much about design rather than just construction technique. And that the "what" is simple, beautiful, functional, and so proudly proletarian. Raney said it much better than I can. Why might it trigger folks? Well trigger was maybe hyperbole, but Schwarz is seen as having an outsized influence / amount of respect / fanbase to some in this thread, and I've been accused of being an unabashed Schwarz, fanboi who can't think for himself.
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Dec 28, 2016 21:27
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Does anyone happen to have the URLs for the Fine Woodworking freebie plans for the last few days in their browser history? I got yesterday's and today's, but I was out of town for Christmas and missed the first few.
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Dec 28, 2016 21:41
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I sure can't see how anyone would make a living building furniture. I mean I'd like to, in an ideal world and with more skill than I possess. But from a cost/return standpoint I can understand why most regular folks would just buy disposable ikea trash.
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Dec 28, 2016 21:49
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Skippy Granola posted:I sure can't see how anyone would make a living building furniture. Reputation is everything. Word of mouth will get you a lot of business and several of the guys I have met who do furniture also do cabinetry to fill the gaps in their schedule.
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Dec 28, 2016 21:53
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As someone who has tried to make a serious go of it making things, I can't see why someone would take on the struggles of making quality craft for a living unless they had no other alternative. I had the option to lateral to the software world and did so once it was clear I would be struggling for the rest of my life as a maker. I do understand why people buy IKEA, for the same reason I understand why people buy plastic crap they know will break. In that I understand how marketing and its agent fashion conspire to perform aggravated assault on the psyche of the modern human. What I don't understand is why the people who recognize the corrosive role of marketing in our society don't make the decision to save and buy fewer higher quality pieces that will last them their whole lives. This type of furniture is still manufactured and if you sit down and do the math on how many times you'll re-buy the same crappy disposable furniture, it's not hard to see the value in buying quality from the start. I realize there are a lot of class considerations here, and many people do not have the financial means, but I see the disposable furniture trend within my own priveldged peer group and it baffles me.
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Dec 28, 2016 21:58
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Atticus_1354 posted:Reputation is everything. Word of mouth will get you a lot of business and several of the guys I have met who do furniture also do cabinetry to fill the gaps in their schedule. Pretty much this. You'd be surprised at how much some folks are willing to spend to get the right piece(s) and if you get one person at the country club to brag about her new live-edge table with matching chairs and sideboard to her friends after tennis, you'll get more jobs from them and so on.
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Dec 28, 2016 22:03
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GEMorris posted:As someone who has tried to make a serious go of it making things, I can't see why someone would take on the struggles of making quality craft for a living unless they had no other alternative. I had the option to lateral to the software world and did so once it was clear I would be struggling for the rest of my life as a maker. I recently needed a new stereo/TV cabinet. I had previously had an open stereo tower with glass shelves and that's just not a good idea with a baby. So, my criteria for a new media stand was that it had to be low enough to not be a climbing hazard, large enough to support a TV on top and a stereo receiver, phonograph, CD player, and bluray player on the shelves with adequate ventilation. Preferably also having an enclosed bottom section to a) keep physical media in and b) keep the electronics at least a foot off the floor. Looking around, there was IKEA style flatpack junk which didn't really meet my needs and quality solid wood furniture which cost more than the TV and stereo combined. I teach middle school science and have a baby, I am not in the market for quality handcrafted hardwood furniture. I would like to be, but it ain't happening. Thanks to some crafting on the side a couple years back, I was able to outfit a modest basement workshop so my solution was to get some pine boards and make what I wanted instead of buying something I didn't really like. Most people do not have that option. Saving has nothing to do with it, as far as most people are concerned there is no step between flatpack MDF junk and unrealistically expensive.
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Dec 28, 2016 22:18
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Stultus Maximus posted:I recently needed a new stereo/TV cabinet. I had previously had an open stereo tower with glass shelves and that's just not a good idea with a baby. So, my criteria for a new media stand was that it had to be low enough to not be a climbing hazard, large enough to support a TV on top and a stereo receiver, phonograph, CD player, and bluray player on the shelves with adequate ventilation. Preferably also having an enclosed bottom section to a) keep physical media in and b) keep the electronics at least a foot off the floor. As a schoolteacher you are criminally underpaid for one. I don't think you are the target market for handcrafted furniture, but quality built manufactured non-flat-pack furniture should be an option for you (I'm placing that should on our economy and culture, not you, btw). "Unrealistically expensive" is really loaded as globalization and the continued externalization of environmental costs and human rights abuses has skewed our perception, as a society, of what something "should" cost.
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Dec 28, 2016 22:31
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