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Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010

Der Shovel posted:

E: Seeing recommendations for Agrax Earthshade on the Internet.
Army Painter Strong Tone (in dropper bottles not cans) is pretty much the same thing but cheaper per ml.

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Class Warcraft
Apr 27, 2006


lilljonas posted:

Not really, it's mostly WW2, Napoleonics and 30YW, so either too early or too late.

I picked up a Fallschirmjäger platoon as well, because it was so cheap and they'll be suitable for Sicily and Italy. You basically get a whole platoon, plus some extras so switch around weapon options with, for £18 with free worldwide shipping. So yeah, a very cheap starting point for BA or CoC.

Every year I fail to resist the sprue sale and end up with more plastic mans even though the last thing I need is more minis to paint.

Shaman Tank Spec
Dec 26, 2003

*blep*



Pierzak posted:

Army Painter Strong Tone (in dropper bottles not cans) is pretty much the same thing but cheaper per ml.

The problem with Army Painter's stuff is that it's not readily available where I live :-/ It's Vallejo and GW all the way.

Serotonin
Jul 14, 2001

The history of all hitherto existing society is the history of *blank*
Painted my first 28mm tank. Not sure how I've been gaming so long and never done a 1/56 vehicle before. Weird.

Just the decals ( on order) and the sand dust effects ( AK Interactive Africa Dust Effects) to go.

First time weathering too. Used AK Heavy Chipping Fluid. Amazing stuff.

lilljonas
May 6, 2007

We got crabs? We got crabs!

Serotonin posted:

Painted my first 28mm tank. Not sure how I've been gaming so long and never done a 1/56 vehicle before. Weird.

Just the decals ( on order) and the sand dust effects ( AK Interactive Africa Dust Effects) to go.

First time weathering too. Used AK Heavy Chipping Fluid. Amazing stuff.



High five DAK tank buddy, looks great! The chipping fluid, is it something you use afterwards, or inbetween paint layers?

Serotonin
Jul 14, 2001

The history of all hitherto existing society is the history of *blank*

lilljonas posted:

High five DAK tank buddy, looks great! The chipping fluid, is it something you use afterwards, or inbetween paint layers?

So I primed grey then painted whole tank Vallejo Hull Red. Sealed with Klear then a coat of Chipping Fluid. When that's dry airbrushed my base coat and highlight. Then you get a wet brush and dab it on where you want the chips, let it soak in, then rub the top layer of paint off. It's basically the old hairspray technique.

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


Serotonin posted:

Painted my first 28mm tank. Not sure how I've been gaming so long and never done a 1/56 vehicle before. Weird.

Just the decals ( on order) and the sand dust effects ( AK Interactive Africa Dust Effects) to go.

First time weathering too. Used AK Heavy Chipping Fluid. Amazing stuff.



That's a good looking tank! Bravo!

I'll have to try my hand at that scale, I've only done 1/72 and 1/35.

Cinnamon Bear
Aug 29, 2016

by FactsAreUseless

lilljonas posted:

Oh, and if you have questions about samurai miniatures in general I can help you, as I have a few

hundred.

:P

Cheers. I live/work in Japan and lately I've been touring the castles/museums and seeing tiny scale displays and thinking that sounds fun instead of usual robots/monsters, and also encourages me to brush up on history. I've played Command & Colors a long time ago with Memoir '44, I think. I might look into that, since its a system I roughly know already. DBA also sounds pretty nice, so I might investigate how much that would cost to start up.

Arquinsiel
Jun 1, 2006

"There is no such thing as society. There are individual men and women, and there are families. And no government can do anything except through people, and people must look to themselves first."

God Bless Margaret Thatcher
God Bless England
RIP My Iron Lady
Assuming you go for DBA in 15mm and can find appropriate army packs you'll be up and running for well inside 100 bux, including terrain etc.

lilljonas
May 6, 2007

We got crabs? We got crabs!
If you base infantry 3 to 4 per base, you can get a 28mm DBA for a reasonable cost as well.

Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007



About to paint a platoon of Soviet mans. A lot of them (but not all) have these thick sashes or maybe bags? slung over their shoulders (number 7 on that picture).

What exactly is that thing? Is it just a bag? I think it's just a bag, but it doesn't look like they've got anything in it, and it doesn't seem to have much room to carry anything in it, or holes to put things in, for that matter. It kinda looks like a tent or sleeping bag, but surely you wouldn't carry that with you into combat.

Models which are carrying a weapon in two hands, with each hand and the weapon being separate pieces, are the bane of my goddamn existence. Gluing those loving things is a exercise in goddamn frustration every time. There's so much superglue smeared on my fingers right now.

I'm still blown away by how much more value historicals are. 40 high-quality multipart plastic Soviet mans with weapon options out the butt for the same as 10 Warmachine guys of a significantly lower quality. And even that is cheaper than Warhammer. And it was almost twice as expensive as the German platoon I bought from the Perrys.

Geisladisk fucked around with this message at 09:34 on Dec 28, 2016

Thundercloud
Mar 28, 2010

To boldly be eaten where no grot has been eaten before!
Playing historicals in 28mm at a platoon level is cheap as hell in plastics. It isn't breaking the bank in metals.

Warlord will release a couple more plastic sets for Bolt Action this year (rumours are Paras is one of them) so it is only going to get better. 500 points in BA is a perfectly viable game size, and 1000 is the standard tournament force.

I'm trading a sprue of ten Mk IV marines for the Japanese Special Landing platoon from Warlord, which with the box of Japanese I already have will give me most of a 1000 point force.

The sprue sale I will use to get some more Japanese infantry and some USMC for them to fight. And some more US airborne to get that force closer to 1000 points.

And then it is just a slippery slope of thinking tankettes are a good idea.

lilljonas
May 6, 2007

We got crabs? We got crabs!

Geisladisk posted:



About to paint a platoon of Soviet mans. A lot of them (but not all) have these thick sashes or maybe bags? slung over their shoulders (number 7 on that picture).

What exactly is that thing? Is it just a bag? I think it's just a bag, but it doesn't look like they've got anything in it, and it doesn't seem to have much room to carry anything in it, or holes to put things in, for that matter. It kinda looks like a tent or sleeping bag, but surely you wouldn't carry that with you into combat.

Models which are carrying a weapon in two hands, with each hand and the weapon being separate pieces, are the bane of my goddamn existence. Gluing those loving things is a exercise in goddamn frustration every time. There's so much superglue smeared on my fingers right now.

I'm still blown away by how much more value historicals are. 40 high-quality multipart plastic Soviet mans with weapon options out the butt for the same as 10 Warmachine guys of a significantly lower quality. And even that is cheaper than Warhammer. And it was almost twice as expensive as the German platoon I bought from the Perrys.

I'm pretty sure that is an ammo bandolier covered in cloth:


https://www.ostfront.com/products/bandolier-for-60-rounds-of-7-62x54

E: no, if it's that bulky and also on the back side, it's probably a rolled up rain cape.

lilljonas fucked around with this message at 12:49 on Dec 28, 2016

Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007

lilljonas posted:

I'm pretty sure that is an ammo bandolier covered in cloth:


https://www.ostfront.com/products/bandolier-for-60-rounds-of-7-62x54

That was one of my guesses, but it's too thick, and goes all the way around the back. An ammo bandolier wouldn't have pouches on the back. They also don't have any openings to access the inside.

According to a reenactment guide I found it's a multipurpose raincoat-tent-thing, which accounts for both the size and thickness, and it does make sense to have it with you in combat.

Geisladisk fucked around with this message at 12:54 on Dec 28, 2016

3 Action Economist
May 22, 2002

Educate. Agitate. Liberate.
Yes, it's a rain-cape/tent-half, called a plasch-pilatka.



Serotonin
Jul 14, 2001

The history of all hitherto existing society is the history of *blank*
I was counting down the minutes till you showed up. 😊

3 Action Economist
May 22, 2002

Educate. Agitate. Liberate.

Serotonin posted:

I was counting down the minutes till you showed up. 😊

I figured!

EdsTeioh
Oct 23, 2004

PRAY FOR DEATH


Alright, after talking over Black Powder at length with a couple of local guys, I *think* we've settled on 15mm. I know basing doesn't technically matter as long as it's uniform, but if anyone has any suggestions, please let me know. We we're thinking is using Flames of War small bases with 6 figures (2 ranks of 3), then 6 bases per unit for a regular sized unit. Thoughts?

tallkidwithglasses
Feb 7, 2006

EdsTeioh posted:

Alright, after talking over Black Powder at length with a couple of local guys, I *think* we've settled on 15mm. I know basing doesn't technically matter as long as it's uniform, but if anyone has any suggestions, please let me know. We we're thinking is using Flames of War small bases with 6 figures (2 ranks of 3), then 6 bases per unit for a regular sized unit. Thoughts?
[/

[quote="EdsTeioh" post="467777566"]
Alright, after talking over Black Powder at length with a couple of local guys, I *think* we've settled on 15mm. I know basing doesn't technically matter as long as it's uniform, but if anyone has any suggestions, please let me know. We we're thinking is using Flames of War small bases with 6 figures (2 ranks of 3), then 6 bases per unit for a regular sized unit. Thoughts?

I use 30mm square bases on my cm-scaled black powder which is a little "off" but ends up being ok since both armies match. I'd consider either 20 or 40mm squares, either 6 or 4 bases per unit. The square bases are great for reforming between columns, attack columns and lines.

Serotonin
Jul 14, 2001

The history of all hitherto existing society is the history of *blank*
Sounds reasonable to me. Remember though you will need to be able to have the units in various formations ( square,,column, attack column etc ). I found smaller square basesngave more flexibility personally.

EdsTeioh
Oct 23, 2004

PRAY FOR DEATH


Oh yeah, I guess square bases would be better. Do you guys have a source to get them, or does everyone just make them from plasticard or whatever?

Also, tallkidwithglasses, do you play at 15mm?

EdsTeioh fucked around with this message at 16:23 on Dec 28, 2016

Serotonin
Jul 14, 2001

The history of all hitherto existing society is the history of *blank*
There's lots of places selling laser cut mdf bases. Go to place in the UK is probably Warbases.co.uk. I'm sure American posters can chip in with local sources.

lilljonas
May 6, 2007

We got crabs? We got crabs!

Serotonin posted:

There's lots of places selling laser cut mdf bases. Go to place in the UK is probably Warbases.co.uk. I'm sure American posters can chip in with local sources.

I used to buy from Litko in the US until cross-Atlantic shipping prices soared through the roof.

EdsTeioh
Oct 23, 2004

PRAY FOR DEATH


Looks like GF9 does a pretty wide variety of bases for pretty cheap. Good to know!

90s Cringe Rock
Nov 29, 2006
:gay:

Serotonin posted:

There's lots of places selling laser cut mdf bases. Go to place in the UK is probably Warbases.co.uk. I'm sure American posters can chip in with local sources.
That's war-bases.co.uk, and they're pretty good. Closed over the holiday, but they've been good to me. Done some custom stuff too.

tallkidwithglasses
Feb 7, 2006

EdsTeioh posted:

Also, tallkidwithglasses, do you play at 15mm?

I play at 6mm, but really the size of the model is immaterial- all that matters is the frontage of your units and how fast things move and how far they shoot.

EdsTeioh
Oct 23, 2004

PRAY FOR DEATH


tallkidwithglasses posted:

I play at 6mm, but really the size of the model is immaterial- all that matters is the frontage of your units and how fast things move and how far they shoot.

Oh, yeah, I got that from reading through; I was just curious what everyone else is doing. Looks like my friends want to do 1812ish Napoleonics but I really wanted to do AWI. Guess the cool thing about smaller scales is that I can buy multiple armies for less. Sorry, wallet.

tallkidwithglasses
Feb 7, 2006
Hahah, yeah, I went 6mm because someday I hope to be an old fat grog playing corps scale battles in my basement.

DiHK
Feb 4, 2013

by Azathoth
What do the BA army books add? There's functional lists in the back of the book so what am I gaining if I pick up the Joe, Jerry, or Imperial Japanese book (also is there a first name reference for Japanese and Italians? Every other major player has one...Tommy/Ivan).

EdsTeioh
Oct 23, 2004

PRAY FOR DEATH


DiHK posted:

What do the BA army books add? There's functional lists in the back of the book so what am I gaining if I pick up the Joe, Jerry, or Imperial Japanese book (also is there a first name reference for Japanese and Italians? Every other major player has one...Tommy/Ivan).

Pretty sure that Tojo and Guido were the pejoratives for the Japanese and Italians. Basically, the BA army books add alternate organizations for the armies. From what I can tell, with some research you can build most any force with the rulebook as long as you don't mind filling in some blanks here and there. The armybooks tend to fill everything out, so will say "OK, here's how you build 101st Airborne for late war" or whatever. They even tell you straight up that you can run the reenforced platoons from the main rule book and reprint them in the armybooks.

Enentol
Jul 16, 2005
Middle Class Gangster

DiHK posted:

What do the BA army books add? There's functional lists in the back of the book so what am I gaining...

EdsTeioh posted:

Basically, the BA army books add alternate organizations for the armies. From what I can tell, with some research you can build most any force with the rulebook as long as you don't mind filling in some blanks here and there.

Besides specific selectors for theatre, etc., the books have a ton more units compared to the ones in the rulebook.

For example, the 2nd Ed rulebook has 3 tanks for the UK (5 if you count the Stuart and Sherman) whereas there's 25 in the Armies of GB book (30 if you count the US tanks too). Granted, many of those are variants of the same chassis, but the point is still relevant. There's whole classes of weapons and units that aren't even provided as options in the rulebook.

Furthermore, each Armies of... book has more national rules for each country.

They're by no means necessary, but the amount of extra rules and options that they give an army is staggering. Instead of one "generic" army from the rulebook, there's a ton of thematic variants now available to you.

Dirt Worshipper
Apr 2, 2007

Paralithodes Californiensis
http://boltaction.easyarmy.com/

spectralent
Oct 1, 2014

Me and the boys poppin' down to the shops
Anyone got much of an opinion on Volksarmee? From the previews I've seen it looks kinda rushed.

EdsTeioh
Oct 23, 2004

PRAY FOR DEATH


I'm all dead set to spend money on proper metal soldiers for Black Powder, then a friend of mine offers me 4 6 point warbands for SAGA+rulebooks and dice for $300. I'm gonna go so broke.

lilljonas
May 6, 2007

We got crabs? We got crabs!

EdsTeioh posted:

I'm all dead set to spend money on proper metal soldiers for Black Powder, then a friend of mine offers me 4 6 point warbands for SAGA+rulebooks and dice for $300. I'm gonna go so broke.

Which period for Black Powder?

EdsTeioh
Oct 23, 2004

PRAY FOR DEATH


lilljonas posted:

Which period for Black Powder?

Not sure if I talked about specifics upthread or not, but basically I'm wanting to do AWI while the guys I'll be gaming with want to do 1812-15 Napoleonics. I'll probably end up doing both eventually. I'm in the middle of selling off some rare rear end boardgames and Heavy Gear minis at the moment to fund all of this.

lenoon
Jan 7, 2010

So with the bolt action books, can I just get the 2nd edition rule book and have enough lists to run British 8th army stuff, or should I just bite the bullet as it were and get the North Africa book right away? Or even the Brit book - which one has the right material in?

long-ass nips Diane
Dec 13, 2010

Breathe.

Just get the core book and use Easy Army

Class Warcraft
Apr 27, 2006


The BA rulebook has basic lists for all armies. The army books have expanded special rules, additional units, and 'theater selectors' which are basically rules for building a list to reenact certain battles/campaigns which I always use because I like to sperg about the kinda stuff. The different front books are mainly scenarios for different parts of the war which are cool but you probably only need those if you're running a campaign or something

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3 Action Economist
May 22, 2002

Educate. Agitate. Liberate.
I don't think you "need" the army books, but I think they're useful, and I also think you're going to buy at least one, because you're an historical gamer, and it's what we do.

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