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Sometimes I forget that Chill la Chill has my favorite TG goods but then he posts poo poo like that and I remember
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Dec 28, 2016 00:12
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I actually wish there was a good Xtreme speed painting guide out there. I think the answer is like prime/basecoat with models primary colour, paint metal, skin tone and one other color, dip, matte varnish but definitely open to ideas.
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Dec 28, 2016 01:16
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Cthulhu Dreams posted:I actually wish there was a good Xtreme speed painting guide out there. I think the answer is like prime/basecoat with models primary colour, paint metal, skin tone and one other color, dip, matte varnish but definitely open to ideas. Nah that's actually the go-to for speed painting a whole batch of models. Prime, basecoat, block out colors, then wash/dip. 
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Dec 28, 2016 01:40
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Wood stainer?  Those results look pretty great, but my experience with stains and woodworking make my cautious. That stuff can be pretty drat thick and stick depending on the type. I do work with stains constaining polyurethane (protective sealant) so that may be why.
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Dec 28, 2016 01:51
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You have to flick the hell out of stained models. signalnoise posted:Sometimes I forget that Chill la Chill has my favorite TG goods but then he posts poo poo like that and I remember 
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Dec 28, 2016 01:55
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Chill la Chill posted:You have to flick the hell out of stained models. Or, as some industrious people like to do: stick the model on the end of a drill bit, put in a hole in a box, and make it spin for a few seconds. Makes it dry quicker and prevents the stain from pooling.
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Dec 28, 2016 02:33
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Slimnoid posted:Or, as some industrious people like to do: stick the model on the end of a drill bit, put in a hole in a box, and make it spin for a few seconds. Makes it dry quicker and prevents the stain from pooling. How are the results vs brushing on stain? What I've been doing.
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Dec 28, 2016 02:38
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Cthulhu Dreams posted:How are the results vs brushing on stain? What I've been doing. It won't pool, for one, so if that's an issue then consider doing what I mentioned. Spinning it also flicks off a lot of the extra so the stain comes out a little lighter. Really, the drill trick is just a faster form of flicking, so if you do a lot of that then the results will be roughly similar.
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Dec 28, 2016 02:52
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Slimnoid posted:Or, as some industrious people like to do: stick the model on the end of a drill bit, put in a hole in a box, and make it spin for a few seconds. Makes it dry quicker and prevents the stain from pooling. For some reason that just sounds absolutely hilarious to me.  I mean I get it works but something about it just makes me laugh amusedly.
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Dec 28, 2016 03:11
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Cooked Auto posted:For some reason that just sounds absolutely hilarious to me. It's because lots of things can go in a hole in a box. And spin. e: 
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Dec 28, 2016 03:13
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Chill la Chill posted:It's because lots of things can go in a hole in a box. And spin. Well done. 
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Dec 28, 2016 03:38
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I dipped for a good long while, mainly because I had a month of unemployment, and I swore to myself to keep me busy, I would have an army painted by the time work started up again. The key, IMO, is to make a color combo that really takes well to the stain. For my Protectorate of Menoth, I primed white, slapped some wine red color on the cloaks, black on the Menofixes, gold and silver in metal parts. Bone on the stone tile, with wine red on some tiles to vary it up. I applied the dip via blister foam. Dull cote on the shebang after. It worked pretty well, and my army isn't going to win awards (except for the time it did, but that's another story,) but it's DONE, and only take minimal effort to upkeep.
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Dec 28, 2016 05:42
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Yeah a big advantage of the mini wax method to date has been that combined with bones figures they've survived very rough handling without chipping (rough enough to break some off the bases they'd been superglued too)
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Dec 28, 2016 06:00
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Chill la Chill posted:See this whole rant is cool and good and filled with good advice. But wrt this portion: OTOH you can just say gently caress it and have all sorts of colors to make the eyes bleed. Ok, but like, the dude who does JoJo actually proves my point. Just because something is garish doesn't mean it can't have on point color theory behind it. He does most things as a variation on Purple/Orange/Purple/Aqua/Neon Green which like the most garish color scheme imaginable, but they compliment each other really really well. And at least in a lot of the colorized stuff he keeps his colors to extreme minimums, stuff like how Stardust Crusaders era JoJo's clothing and hair is basically the same color. Slimnoid posted:Nah that's actually the go-to for speed painting a whole batch of models. Prime, basecoat, block out colors, then wash/dip. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tRzmEtuufTw
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Dec 28, 2016 06:42
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I should probably try making my humanoid models look like Jojos since the drab earthy tones I've been trying are incredibly boring.
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Dec 28, 2016 07:25
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Dipping is a mug's game. There are better products to achieve better results without the mess or risk of wanking about with dips and woodstains. Citadel shades, Vallejo washes etc.
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Dec 28, 2016 08:45
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Lovely Joe Stalin posted:Dipping is a mug's game. There are better products to achieve better results without the mess or risk of wanking about with dips and woodstains. To be fair, if you're looking to make wood look like wood/earth tones (i.e those dwarves) it makes sense to go with wood stain. Just, that mess....it really sucks getting a little transfered to your hands through a rag, let alone holding and flicking a model.
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Dec 28, 2016 09:04
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I finished the squad. There are plenty of mistakes but I'm satisfied and moving on to the next project. Each one I do, the line highlights get better as I learn to be more consistent with my paint and brushing. I took this photo at night with my phone. Sorry if it's lovely.
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Dec 28, 2016 09:50
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goons posted:flicking
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Dec 28, 2016 12:05
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Four more vikings and a wraith from the oath thread. I still have to live with the green rims, but I think the flowers helps separate the base from model.
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Dec 28, 2016 12:34
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I've just bought 3 bottles of Vallejo Surface primer, U.K. Bronze Grey, U.S. Olive Drab and Ger. Dark Yellow. I've been told before that these aren't "real" primers, but they say the exact same as my white and black Vallejo Surface primer. Have i been misled? because i'd love to skip the step of priming black!
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Dec 28, 2016 17:48
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Frobbe posted:I've just bought 3 bottles of Vallejo Surface primer, U.K. Bronze Grey, U.S. Olive Drab and Ger. Dark Yellow. I've been told before that these aren't "real" primers, but they say the exact same as my white and black Vallejo Surface primer. Check the label to see if it contains the word "polyurethane". If it does, then it's actual primer that you can use instead of the black primer.
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Dec 28, 2016 17:59
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signalnoise posted:Check the label to see if it contains the word "polyurethane". If it does, then it's actual primer that you can use instead of the black primer. That's indeed what it says! guess i've got no excuse to not prime the poo poo out of all my FoW tanks now.
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Dec 28, 2016 18:10
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Frobbe posted:I've just bought 3 bottles of Vallejo Surface primer, U.K. Bronze Grey, U.S. Olive Drab and Ger. Dark Yellow. I've been told before that these aren't "real" primers, but they say the exact same as my white and black Vallejo Surface primer. When people say it isn't real primer they mean it's not an etching primer that eats into the substrate like automotive primers do. It will work just fine for minis.
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Dec 28, 2016 18:23
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JoshTheStampede posted:When people say it isn't real primer they mean it's not an etching primer that eats into the substrate like automotive primers do. It will work just fine for minis.
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Dec 28, 2016 18:25
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There are vmc colours with primer in the name, but the actual primer branded ones do come in colours
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Dec 28, 2016 18:29
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Pierzak posted:No, Vallejo also has actual paints called Primer that aren't primers, just matched to their color or something. Specifically, they are regular paints meant to match the colors of primers used on historical vehicles. e: Although I don't see any paints named "primer" that aren't primers. Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 18:35 on Dec 28, 2016 |
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Dec 28, 2016 18:30
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Pierzak posted:Who the gently caress dips minis in this day and age? Just use a big soft brush and blob it on, then come back and pull off any forming pools with the same brush. Same effect, not that much effort, no stained floors walls and ceilings. Yep. I came to post that exact thing. It's not like you absolutely soak the model in stain - you just brush it on, like you would with any other ink or wash, and soak up the excess a minute later. You're done. It's not difficult and the effect is fine for a tabletop quality army or horde. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LMOTmOchKyQ
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Dec 28, 2016 21:28
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berzerkmonkey posted:It's not like you absolutely soak the model
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Dec 28, 2016 21:47
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El Estrago Bonito posted:Don't use too many colors: This is all excellent advice, and a very helpful post. Counterpoint: You could also be like me and just go nuts with the eye-searing because "gently caress it, it's Chaos"  
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Dec 28, 2016 22:02
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Don't let a limited palette keep you from experimenting though; you can do some awesome stuff with uncommon highlights, and a nice purple + green accenting can make rust patches pop really nice.
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Dec 28, 2016 22:07
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Don't highlight bubblegum purple with ryza rust, they said. I'LL SHOW THEM
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Dec 28, 2016 22:16
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Lovely Joe Stalin posted:Dipping is a mug's game. There are better products to achieve better results without the mess or risk of wanking about with dips and woodstains. This is actually not true, they are all very different products with extremely different attributes. Because of the way dips work with surface tension they are extremely hard to gently caress up in the way that inks and washes are. Low surface tension inks (IE "magic" ink/wash) are also in a similar state. Knowing exactly how much paint to use and how to spread it is extremely important for using washes, especially the citadel ones, because the large amount of matte medium and varnish in the wash can make a surface look extremely dirty if you over do it. Matte washes and matte ink (like vallejo ink, not like hand made ink or old school GW ink) also have a tendency to spread small amounts of pigment clumps across a surface if you don't know how to think them or if you don't have stellar brush control. Using a poly based stain or a product like army painter (which is way too expensive, but for it's faults is a poly based stain that color matches devlan mud which is not a commercially available product at home depot) will produce results with a more consistent distribution and blend between your high points and low points. Citadel washes are really great, but they honestly need decent brush control for good results and the difference between slopping on agrax and slopping on minwax (followed by a matte varnish) is pretty extreme. For basic utility painting I exclude anything that is predicated on decent brush control, paint thinning and the ability to figure out how to place shadows.
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Dec 28, 2016 22:28
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General Olloth posted:I finished the squad. There are plenty of mistakes but I'm satisfied and moving on to the next project. Each one I do, the line highlights get better as I learn to be more consistent with my paint and brushing. Just wanted to take a minute to compliment these deathmarks. Nice robuts! The only issue I have is that the color scheme on the base itself is a little too similar to the guys for my taste, but the spotty crackle paint is a nice touch.
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Dec 28, 2016 23:43
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If you're using washes as a cheat mode, then I highly, highly recommend Nuln and Agrax Gloss variations. In 1 step it's almost like you've glossed to seal the model, added liquitex or flow improver, and it's the perfect consistency. Doesn't stain open surfaces, runs into crevasses, works absolutely beautifully. Then airbrush some vallejo matt varnish over it, ta-da. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GC7gVFCsN0&t=786s /\ apologies if you can't stand his voice, but it's an excellent example of what the gloss washes can do. Yeast fucked around with this message at 00:35 on Dec 29, 2016 |
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Dec 29, 2016 00:30
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Here's some pictures. I've been working on both a Drider and a Space Marine.   I kinda gave out on the torso for the drider since I need to work more on shading skin, and figure out what the gently caress to do with faces. The space marine could use a little bit more cleanup on his detail. I'm especially happy with the how the spider abdomen came out with the wash and edge highlight.  Here's the drider next to a human(?) spider cleric, which is the second model I tried to paint. I also need to clean it up some and figure out how some base detail, and also figure out how I want to base my Blood angels, which will probably just be some grass flock.
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Dec 29, 2016 00:33
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Avenging Dentist posted:Specifically, they are regular paints meant to match the colors of primers used on historical vehicles. I believe they've changed the names of most of them to avoid that sort of confusion. Grey Primer has been renamed to Base Grey, for example. Track Primer remains as an example, however.
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Dec 29, 2016 01:37
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Dr. Gargunza posted:Just wanted to take a minute to compliment these deathmarks. Nice robuts! The only issue I have is that the color scheme on the base itself is a little too similar to the guys for my taste, but the spotty crackle paint is a nice touch. Thanks man! I intentionally chose my bases to be 'busier' than most people would. I see a lot of really badass painted guys standing on black/grey drybrushed rubble or bright sunny grass fields or plain dirt and it puts me off. I thought to myself, I want these guys standing on a tomb world that is cracking apart with necron energy and pools of green and crystals. I know some people like 'less is more' for the bases but I'm all about the 'more is more, this is 40k damnit' (I see you are too, nice chaos man)
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Dec 29, 2016 04:34
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That's usually so the bases can blend in with more tables, but you are right that it's pretty dull.
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Dec 29, 2016 04:36
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I think making your bases a bit 3D really helps (e.g static grass or shell casings or moss or whatever)
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Dec 29, 2016 04:36
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