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You have to post a picture of the jackets.
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Jul 31, 2016 15:28
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Something very strange just happened in this thread and I'm totally on board for it. I'm a little shocked a 3.0L V6 Jaguar is extreme enough to qualify for Gumball.
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Jul 31, 2016 15:35
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:On the subject of AC, what is this thing in my AC line? It's a can full of desiccant to get the last little bit of moisture out of the AC lines after they are filled. Water turns the oil used in AC systems to acid.
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Jul 31, 2016 15:38
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FatCow posted:It's a can full of desiccant to get the last little bit of moisture out of the AC lines after they are filled. Water turns the oil used in AC systems to acid. An inline drier? What the gently caress, Toyota?! Still, beats the drier in the RX8 which is built into the loving condenser. 88h88 posted:I'm currently really confused as to what exactly is going on in this thread any more. I dont even know any more. Earlier today I looked out of my window at my driveway and tried to piece together the life decisions which led to this moment. Seat Safety Switch posted:I'm a little shocked a 3.0L V6 Jaguar is extreme enough to qualify for Gumball. I'm thinking they must have a 'joke' class or something... either way, it gives the engine racing pedigree, adding "+3 power" at the expense "+5 chance of throwing a rod". http://www.thecannonrun.com/ For £200, including hotels and ferry crossings, that's a pretty sweet deal. Actual content: Pulled the engine today in about 4 hours, the stripped most of the wiring. The car is being collected for scrap this afternoon. No pictures because I busted my rear end getting that drat motor out. You're meant to remove the catalytic converters before lifting but the bolts were on there to stay so I had to pull hard and hope. The AJ30 has no lifting points - you have to buy those separately. All the while, this thing is spewing oil all over the loving place. So yeah, no pictures. Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 03:35 on Aug 1, 2016 |
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Aug 1, 2016 03:32
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Actually it seems I lied, here are a few pictures: Engine out.   Interior stripped of all wiring and electronics. Interior and plastics and crap thrown in the back   Engine leaking oil from the cracked oil pan, all over my garage floor.   Interesting water pump design - it's mounted backwards and run off the serpentine belt. I guess because it's an add-on to allow the Duratec to work in a RWD vehicle. The Duratec motor from the Mondeo has its water pump driven from the rear (flywheel side) of one camshaft (which is odd in it's own way).  Other bits....computers, radiator, etc. Some will be sold, some may be re-used. I'm toying with using the factory ECU (a pain in the rear end to get working), or going aftermarket (££££).   I also went ahead and separated the transmission. I hosed up, thinking there were three torque converter bolts, when there were actually 4. The torque converter stayed on the engine, and the trans cooler pipes then got stuck around one exhaust header, leaving me with a partly-removed transmission and no way to catch the torrent of ATF from the converter.   I've just begun stripping the motor down to the longblock. Once that is done, I will need to buy a CANbus reader and use it to log the CAN information coming from the RX8 ECU before I pull the motor, so I know what information I will need to replicate later. I have no idea how I will do this, I assume a USB device and some software, except I can't find any suitable software which would tell me what CAN data is being transmitted.
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Aug 6, 2016 22:52
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:
here in australia you can get 2gr-fze's in trd aurions/camrys i want one for my sw20
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Aug 8, 2016 03:01
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I have your CANbus sniffing solution: http://skpang.co.uk/catalog/pican2-canbus-board-for-raspberry-pi-23-p-1475.html Here is some practical implementation stuff. http://www.cowfishstudios.com/blog/canned-pi-part1 Wrar fucked around with this message at 14:46 on Aug 8, 2016 |
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Aug 8, 2016 14:39
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Oh that's awesome - thank you so much! I was looking at an Arduino setup with a CAN shield but was getting stuck when looking for suitable software. I have a Raspberry Pi 3 which I'm (barely) using as a HTPC, and can lend it to this project. This looks as though it will be ideal. My plan is to isolate the CAN messages ECU, and see what it is sending and when, so I know what to replicate to keep the car happy. Things we all know would be rpm, speed, oil pressure, coolant temp, CEL status (inc things like oil pressure, coolant level, blah blah). But who knows what other vital information it transmits to the rest of the car. I know that the electric power steering won't function without an ECU present, for example. Maybe it will only function when it sees that there is RPM, maybe it needs a 'I'm here' signal, maybe something else entirely? I need to figure this poo poo out before I pull the motor.
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Aug 8, 2016 20:45
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The RX-8 has electric power steering though? I've been looking into a similar CAN related project for the Outback, because automatic transmissions are meh.
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Aug 8, 2016 22:20
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Wrar posted:The RX-8 has electric power steering though? Right. From what I've read (I've not looked at it in detail on my own car), when you change out the engine and ECU, you lose the power steering. Perhaps the ECU also controls the power steering, or maybe the power steering computer waits for an "I'm running" signal before it will enable. The solution to this is to run a MX5 or RX7 hydraulic rack, using the PS pump from your new engine. But where's the fun in that?
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Aug 8, 2016 22:36
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:Right. From what I've read (I've not looked at it in detail on my own car), when you change out the engine and ECU, you lose the power steering. Perhaps the ECU also controls the power steering, or maybe the power steering computer waits for an "I'm running" signal before it will enable. I've kind of always been fascinated by the electric power steering in the rx8. There's a lot in those cars that adjust to speed from the torque in PS to the radio volume. This dude is has a pretty well documented electric rx8 conversion: http://www.ev-guide.com/rx8-build-blog/. I would hit him up. A brief section on retaining the electric power steering and at least two different sections of the CAN layout. Just getting the electric power steering to turn on doesn't seem too bad, you could even just play around with it until you find a static torque setting in the PS that isn't a bad compromise for low/high speed.
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Aug 15, 2016 16:14
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Thanks for this - I have spent a while looking for others who have attempted to rework the RX8 CAN system, but never came across this. I will have a read through later. My plan is to use an Arduino to replicate the same CAN messages which were produced from the original ECU, so the car will function as normal, without knowing that the stock ECU is missing. If this becomes too tricky (e.g. if the car sends messages to the ECU and awaits reposes, something which would be tough to reverse engineer), then I would retain the stock ECU and instead attempt to spoof the sensor inputs, (crank angle sensor, temp sensors, etc). If I go for an aftermarket ECU, I could go as far as to retain many of the stock RX8 sensors on the Jaguar engine, use a stock RX8 crank trigger wheel, etc, and split the signal between two ECUs (the thought being that aftermarket ECUs generally have great flexibility when it comes to sensor choices). Although having the RX8 ECU present just to deal with the CAN is ugly and wasteful, I feel.
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Aug 15, 2016 20:41
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Update time! I'm still working (job work and house work) almost every day, but I'm getting to the end of the "house" work and will hopefully have some more time to work on my lovely cars. Here's what has happened recently: Put the Jag motor on an engine stand. Planned to sell the Jag automatic transmission (the asking prices for those are more than I paid for the donor car, so if I can sell for around that then, woo, free engine!)    Today I planned to 'just pull the green Soarer onto the drive so I can think about stripping it some more". Ended up pulling both subframes, all of the under-body pipes and lines, the rest of the interior, and all of the wiring looms. Just the glass to remove and this thing can go for scrap! Subframes were removed with the help of an engine hoist and some scrap (the labels fell off  ) roundslings.  Bonus, ingenius methof of lifting the car. Roundsling through the LPG vent hole in the spare wheel well, with a steel pipe placed through it underneath.  The garage is even more full than it was with the car in there - fortunately a day with an impact gun and a set of IKEA shelves will sort this out.   Next up - garage improvements! I need to install lights, fit shelves, tidy up all the junk Soarer bits (and put the larger ones on eBay), paint the walls, and fill in the (broken) windows. All of my other Soarer parts (another 2 cars worth - so double what's in this photo!) will need to fit in here when the arrive next Saturday, while still leaving enough room for tools and working space. Ugh. Not much progress on the RX8 front - I need to get mroe active in the ECU thread and decide how I'm going to control this engine. I was thinking of using a Speeduino for engine control, with a second Arduino to handle the CAN bus and car-related bits (AC request, drive by wire, VVT solenoids, etc).
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Sep 24, 2016 22:09
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Hey, just a little PSA to you and others. While I'm sure the slings are plenty strong for that job, the configuration can be a recipe for disaster if the angle of the lower parts become too close to horizontal. This Wikipedia article explains the phenomenon from a rock climbing scenario in great detail, but long story short: when doing V or Y configuration in any load bearing situation, keep the angle as small as possible. Assuming the angle in your pic is 120 degrees, the black sling alone is experiencing as much force as the engine hoist is at the chain, even if it's only holding half the load.
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Sep 25, 2016 09:04
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While you have it out of the car, could you measure the track of the rear subframe, Mate is looking at irs-ing his 'coon and soarers have a subframe/same bolt pattern.
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Sep 25, 2016 09:30
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bolind posted:Hey, just a little PSA to you and others. While I'm sure the slings are plenty strong for that job, the configuration can be a recipe for disaster if the angle of the lower parts become too close to horizontal. This Wikipedia article explains the phenomenon from a rock climbing scenario in great detail, but long story short: when doing V or Y configuration in any load bearing situation, keep the angle as small as possible. Assuming the angle in your pic is 120 degrees, the black sling alone is experiencing as much force as the engine hoist is at the chain, even if it's only holding half the load. This is correct, however these are 2000kg slings and I work with such items on a daily basis. The force on them can be calculated with simple trigonometry, and at such an angle, you're correct that it will have multiplied several times, but with a 7x safety factor built in, these slings won't fail until around 14,000kg. Unfortunately, the radiator core support was not strong enough for the job - choking a sling around that was my first choice. The real PSA should have either been about the back wheels jumping the chocks and the whole thing rolling down my driveway, or the potential damage to the slings from passing them over the pinch welds on the underside of the frame rails.
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Sep 25, 2016 09:51
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Big Daddy Keynes posted:While you have it out of the car, could you measure the track of the rear subframe, Mate is looking at irs-ing his 'coon and soarers have a subframe/same bolt pattern. The wheels are off and I'm not in a great position to lift it to replace them. Will a measurement between the two wheel mounting faces be sufficient? You can then calculate the track width using your own wheels (mine are non standard anyway)
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Sep 25, 2016 09:54
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:The wheels are off and I'm not in a great position to lift it to replace them. Will a measurement between the two wheel mounting faces be sufficient? You can then calculate the track width using your own wheels (mine are non standard anyway) that would be fine, its gonna be running cragars anyway and he has to buy them. (also metric would be preferable, i know how you poms are with your bipolar approach to measurements)
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Sep 25, 2016 10:01
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Centre to centre on the front wheels was 152cm, with 225mm tyres on a 7J ET+45 wheel.
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Sep 25, 2016 21:41
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I had Friday off, and a crapload of leftover timber taking up space in my garage. The solution? Shelves! The back wall of the garage is steel sheets screwed into 4"x4" wooden posts, which originally sat on another piece of 4x4 which was inset into concrete. This bottom piece had mostly rotten into soil, so first, that has to come out. I poured concrete into the newly created trench.     One piece of steel in the corner was bent and coming away from the back wall, letting in water. This rotted out the corner post and part of the top piece of wood. I replaced this post with a 4x4 treated fence post, which I bolted into the concrete upright that forms the rear of the side wall. I removed the bent piece of steel and hammered it back into shape. I replaced around a metre of the top piece of wood, and screwed the steel sheeting back into place on these new pieces. I closed the gap at the top by screwing the roof pieces into the concrete sides. Everything got a good amount of silicone sealant to keep the rain out.   I cut up a few bits of 8'x4' 12mm plywood (this and the post were the only things I purchased new!), to create a back new wall for the garage, and to provide a place to mount the shelves. Before mounting these, I used a few tubes of sealant to seal up the gaps at the top of the back wall which are caused by the in the roof.  The sleeves themselves were made entirely of scrap timber - they ended up only costing me around £10 in screws and nails. I started by making these T pieces. and nailing them to some 4.8m pieces of 2x3 which used to be some ugly fake roof beams in my living room.   Once I'd made 4 of these, I added some more pieces of 2x3 for the front legs. The top of the T pieces were bolted to the plywood wall. The whole thing seems strong enough to hold the various car bits that I will use it to store. I went with the T pieces rather than a continuous , as I do not have enough wood to span the full distance at the back, and the local timber merchants couldn't deliver any more over the weekend.    I chopped up some old 18mm chipboard that I had pulled out of the house (and when that ran out, various other bits of chipboard and plywood) and laid those over the structure to form the shelves.  Finally, time to throw some junk on there!  I also sent the green UZZ32 for scrap, but not before removing the roof, which will provide me with a (flat ish) source of sheet metal should I need any in the future.    I've made some progress on the Mazda. I've spent a while trying to decide on the best engine control and CAN transmitter to use (I believe that these choices will have quite a large impact on the direction of the project later on). It turns out that the stock Duratec ECU is so heavily locked down, that you need pretty much a whole Ford/Jaguar wiring harness and several other computers just to get past the immobiliser. I've been toying with many options, some of which involve leaving the RX8 ECU in place and fitting a second trigger wheel, all the way to building a custom setup from scratch. In the meantime, I bought a PiCAN2 (Thanks for the link, Wrar!) and a small screen for my Raspberry Pi. When I'm next home, I'll look at spending some time trying to work out what CAN messages from the ECU need to be replicated in order for the dash, steering, AC, etc to work. 
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Oct 9, 2016 20:29
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It's been a while since my last update, so this is partly to keep the thread out of the archives, and partly because I've made some progress. I've spent the last 3 months in Detroit working on the North American International Auto Show (again). Which was kinda fun and quite rewarding, but meant that car project progress had to stop for the period. I'm heading back there tomorrow for another 2 weeks, and hopefully after that I'll have some time to work on the RX8 some more! Anyway, I made progress! I have decided to go with Speeduino for my ECU. Reasons being that 1) it's cheap 2) it's hands-on, and I don't feel like I'm 'cheating' by buying pre-made 3) the car is already going to be getting one Arduino, might as well make it two! (and current plans are for three!) 4) the creator is a goon Another advantage is that I could just buy a cheap Chinese clone of the Mega 2560 and use it for testing my CAN interface prior to the actual swap. It's important for me to have the CAN solution sorted before removing the engine, as I need to know what data to 'clone' from the RX8 ECU. I have also decided on my CAN interface solution, and have programmed a good chunk of it. See below:  You can see the Mega 2560 at the top, this will be connected to the Speeduino v0.4 board and will be used to run the engine (in reality I may opt for a Genuine Arduino rather than trust the cheapest clone I could find on eBay). Below that (bottom left) is a PJRC Teensy 3.2. The Teensy is a miniature development board, and is fully compatible with the Arduino IDE. This particular Teensy has been programmed to send a virtual 30-1 crank angle sensor into the Speeduino, to trick it into thinking an engine is running. This will cause it to produce a RPM signal, which is needed to test my CAN interface. I't's currently switching between 2000rpm and 4000rpm every 2 seconds, because I am too lazy to search for a (and program) a potentiometer to let me change it. In the bottom centre is another Teensy (mounted to a breakout board to access the inner row of I/O). This has been attached to a CAN transceiver will is being used to provide the various CAN devices in the RX8 with the messages that they need to operate (of particular importance is the power steering computer, the gauge cluster, and the AC computer). I have currently programmed this Teensy to: 1) Read and interpret the PWM signal from the Speeduino tach output 2) Read wheel speed from the 4 ABS sensors (via CAN bus from the ABS computer) and average them to find road speed (currently untested) 3) Take oil pressure and coolant level inputs from the sensors directly, and convert them into CAN messages for the warning lights. Still to do is: 1) Read the AC request from the CAN bus (once I find out what message that is), and provide power the the AC compressor clutch. 2) Take the "fan on, please" signal from the Speeduino, take the refrigerant pressure readings from the pressure switch, and with that information, along with the AC request status, control the engine fans as a appropriate. There are 3 fan settings - ONE FAN FULL, BOTH FANS HALF, BOTH FANS FULL, and I'll need to find out what the car does with them in various situations, so I can replicate those. 3) Other things I've forgotten (edit: charge light!) 4) Create a PCB for the Teensy, the transceiver, and all associated components, to create a nice, boxed 'ECU' type object. The second teensy, I plan to use to read throttle pedal position, and drive the RX8 electric throttle (which I plan to re-use). This is complicated as it requires reading the TPS position and adjusting to suit (closed loop), as well as taking the idle stepper motor signals from the Speeduino to run idle control. I will also need to make sure I'm OK to split the TPS signal to two receivers without affecting the reading. (If I'm unable to, then I would need to pas TPS into the second Teensy, then output it to the Speeduino, which would add a delay. As for why I'm using three separate devices - I want to keep the Speeduino dedicated for engine control. I also don't want to 'mess with' the firmware, especially if later firmware versions 'break' my programming. The two Teensys could be conbined into one, but that will mean learning a lot more about Interrupts than I currently know now - I'm sure that towards the end of this project I'll be able to make a decision to do this or not. I pulled the gauge cluster from the RX8 - which was easier than I thought as someone had ham-fisted the thing out in the past, breaking all of the screw mounts in the process, and broken (literally) it open so that they coudl cover the CEL and Oil Pressure lights with black tape. Fortunately, new clusters are £15 on eBay, and the one I bought has almost the same odometer reading as mine (I can bring this forward on the bench in the future). With the cluster powered up, we're greeted with this view:  With the whole setup connected, it springs into life  . This was the 'first start' - I programmed all this blind based on CAN information found online. I'm amazed that it all worked first time! (thanks, internet) With TunerStudio running to help me find the correct rpm-pulse-to-CAN ratio:  The RX8 itself hasn't been touched in a while... 
Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 21:04 on Dec 31, 2016 |
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Dec 31, 2016 20:43
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Reverse engineering poo poo like this is ridiculously cool, it's pretty amazing what you can do with arudinos and little arm based things these days
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Jan 1, 2017 01:13
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You're a clever bugger I'll give you that..
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Jan 1, 2017 01:24
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rscott posted:Reverse engineering poo poo like this is ridiculously cool, it's pretty amazing what you can do with arudinos and little arm based things these days A few months ago I was still in the "Arduinos are cool toys, good for kids to learn programming on, but probably have no real world uses". And now I'm looking at running a car from them! These little things are genius and the price of them is now low enough (seriously, you can buy one for £3!) to make it a viable choice for many applications. I'm now dreaming up crazy Arduino-based home automation systems. But first things first... cakesmith handyman posted:You're a clever bugger I'll give you that.. Nice username :p. And I'm glad I'm not the only one browsing SA 15 minutes into the new year
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Jan 1, 2017 03:12
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Pomp and Circumcized posted:
I can understand wanting to cover the CEL, but why on earth would anybody want to cover the oil pressure light? Trying to foist it off onto some poor sod?
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Jan 1, 2017 03:52
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I have no idea. The engine runs fine so perhaps it has a faulty sensor? I'll install my replacement (permenant) cluster next week and will see if it has any errors at all. Not that I'm overly worried as the engine is being removed but I'm certainly curious. The DSC (skidding car) light was also taped over. I'm hoping there aren't any electrical or CAN bus issues with this car! 
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Jan 1, 2017 04:18
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Pomp and Circumcized posted:Nice username :p. And I'm glad I'm not the only one browsing SA 15 minutes into the new year Between fireworks and people calling/texting to say happy new year there's no point trying to go to sleep straight away. I think I'll order an arduino starter kit to play with as well, the possibilities are literally limited by imagination at this point. And did you say the rx8 engine is in working condition?
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Jan 1, 2017 11:48
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It sure is! It has one bad ignition coil (common on these...£40 for a complete new (probably Chinese) set) which causes an occasional misfire at either warm or cold or something. It took a few tries to start once when hot (potential signs of low compression), but otherwise has started fine. At some point I'll pull it and stick it on eBay. I was going to keep the throttle body, but these are only £10 to buy, and the engine is probably worth more complete/running. If you're considering buying it, I suggest reatding up on their reliability first! Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 12:59 on Jan 1, 2017 |
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Jan 1, 2017 12:57
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Haha the other day I went to a friend's place and he had ROMS playing on a Raspberry pi which I thought was clever and there you are hacking one to run a loving car. Top marks.
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Jan 4, 2017 20:07
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Just a short update this time. I've recently started a full-time job (my first ever real job!), which doesn't give me so much time to work on the car. On the upside, the job gives me access to a full machine shop, complete with a laser cutter, waterjet, CAD suite, TIG and MIG stations, etc, which I can "stay behind after work and use", and will greatly help with the fabrication of parts for this build. This weekend I hooked up the Pi to the RX8s CAN, and spent a while logging various actions (throttle, AC request, etc) so that I can replicate those messages later.   Once that was done, it's engine out time! The engine bay was pleasant to work in - I had it down to this in around 40 minutes:  This wasn't a good sign - the upper radiator hose was bone dry and looks like it has been for some time. The "low coolant" light was on in the dash, but the LED had been taped over. Lovely.  The work underneath the car was not so pleasant. It looks as though the PO went hooning in a field before selling me the car - the underside was caked in mud. Most of the bolts didn't give up too much of a fight, but it was a rather unpleasant experience. I decided to leave the transmission in the car for now, rather than mess with the powerplant frame and risk scratching the carbon driveshaft. I still needed to remove 3 crossmembers and the mid exhaust section to allow me to lower the trans far enough to access the wiring on top, and the top bellhousing bolts. I measured the vertical distance from the transmission to a nearby crossmember, at several points, to ensure I keep the transmission level when fabricating motor mounts in the future.  The engine side of things went well, and from start to finish I had it out in around 4 hours, including the 30 minutes wasted trying to remove the undertray (not happening unless I drill out the bolts that hold it to the unibody).    I'm now creating the (long) list of things needed to do and purchase to fit the replacement engine. I also cleaned up the RX8 throttle body and am starting to plan how to use it with a third Arduino to provide drive-by-wire. Fortunately, it's a common Denso unit which appears in many Japanese cars from that era, and making a controller for it isn't all that daunting.
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Jan 29, 2017 20:07
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I managed to get some things done after work today. My intention was to work out how to fabricate a lifting bracket for the V6, as they do not come with one (instead you buy it separately as a service tool), but my heads don't seem to have threaded mounting holes in the correct place, so I will need to rethink this (for now I will probably throw a roundsling under the whole drat engine). I did my first ever welding! I've owned a MIG welder for about a year but this was the first time I'd powered it on. After a few ugly attempts to weld on some old exhaust pipe, I thought 'gently caress it' and went straight for a broken exhaust stud. I managed to weld a nut on, and to my amazement, it didn't look like poo poo AND didn't break off as I removed the stud.   I took measurements of the 13B rotary engine and the AJ30 V6, it's amazing how similar they are in size. The V6 is 1cm longer than the 13B, the same width at the bottom (4cm wider than the 13B at the top), and the height from the centre of the pilot bearing to the top of the motor is only 6cm more on the V6. This is mostly due to the plethora of intake manifold on the 13B, not an issue on the V6 as the manifold can be kept within the limiting engine dimensions (there is plenty of room on top at the front). I measure the clutch disc, pressure plate and flywheel on the 13B, and the flexplate on the V6.  The RX8 transmission has a 23 spline input shaft with a minor diameter of 23mm and major diameter of 27mm. The clutch disc is 235mm in diameter. The pressure plate is 295mm in diameter. The flywheel is 320mm in diameter including the ring gear. The V6 engine's flexplate is only 300mm in diameter, including the ring gear. This is a pain, as it means I may not be able to use a stock RX8 clutch disc on a different kind of flywheel. I'm currently on the hunt for any flywheel which will fit on the V6 (8 bolt, each hole 11mm in diameter, PCD looks like 78mm), and be either 320mm in diameter with 125 teeth, or 300mm in diameter with 117 teeth. I have a choice of starter motor - I can mount one on the engine (for the smaller flywheel) or the transmission (for the larger flywheel) . I'd rather mount one on the transmission, to give extra clearance for the exhaust, but then I have to worry about the larger flywheel fitting within a bellhouse adapter.  But first I need to find a flywheel which fits. Modifications to an existing model aren't out of the question - I may need to add a spacer anyway - but I'm struggling to find a big master webpage of every known flywheel and its dimensions. Edit: A 54mm socket would be handy as well. I laid the engine wiring harness over the V6 engine, and marked up which connector goes where, in preparation for stripping it down. I will also do this with the RX8 loom as I will want some connectors from it (I'm keeping the Denso DBW throttle and TPSs from the Mazda, for example).  I also opened the Jaguar PCM to find out what sort of power transistors it uses for the ignition outputs - so I can either desolder and use them, or find similar models. The transistors are Motorola 5501DM models, and nowhere online can I even find out what kind of transistors they are (likely to be either IGBTs or darlington bipolars). I'll likely end up using either the BU941 or BU323Z darlingtons (in pairs driven by a TIP125 or BC377) for the ignition outputs, but it would be nice to know the spec of the OEM units. 
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Feb 2, 2017 00:52
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Pomp and Circumcized posted:I also opened the Jaguar PCM to find out what sort of power transistors it uses for the ignition outputs - so I can either desolder and use them, or find similar models. The transistors are Motorola 5501DM models, and nowhere online can I even find out what kind of transistors they are (likely to be either IGBTs or darlington bipolars). I'll likely end up using either the BU941 or BU323Z darlingtons (in pairs driven by a TIP125 or BC377) for the ignition outputs, but it would be nice to know the spec of the OEM units. Well I'm glad someone knows what the crystals in the magic box are for.
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Feb 2, 2017 15:45
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Pomp and Circumcized posted:But first I need to find a flywheel which fits The Mercury (Ford) Cougar and the Ford Contour (Mondeo) both had a 2.5L Duratec V6 and manual transmission available. Would one of those work? Left Ventricle fucked around with this message at 01:17 on Feb 3, 2017 |
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Feb 3, 2017 01:15
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Left Ventricle posted:The Mercury (Ford) Cougar and the Ford Contour (Mondeo) both had a 2.5L Duratec V6 and manual transmission available. Would one of those work? Apparently only the ST200 flywheel fits the bolt pattern, but the ring gear is too small. Even though it's a Duratec block, the hole pattern is supposedly different on the AJ30. Then I still need to find a 23 spine 1" clutch, and add a spacer. I'm leaning towards making a spacer for the RX8 flywheel and then having an 8 bolt pattern drilled into it. I could then add the Jag flexplate if I wanted to retain the Jag starter (I'm not sure if an RX8 starter is powerful enough to spin a V6), or just run the RX8 starter (which is in a better location). Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 01:40 on Feb 3, 2017 |
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Feb 3, 2017 01:38
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This is a super interesting thread, thanks for posting! I'd love to find something like this to play with, but it seems like the US market always seems to get stripped down trims, and never gets the cool poo poo other markets get. Anyway, according to this website it seems like the Toyota 15B uses an 8 bolt, 300mm, 117 tooth flywheel, although this might be hard to track down depending on where you are located (I know you posted it, but I forgot already) 
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Feb 3, 2017 01:43
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Thank you! I love how that site actually lists some info about the flywheel instead of just saying "flywheel for x car". Although (lmao), it turns out that the 15B engine was used in a line of Toyota single-decker buses, and only sold in Asia/Aus. I do enjoy a challenge, however! I'm in the UK Edit: A bit more digging and it looks like the Toyota 1HZ diesel engine (much more common!) also has a 300mm, 117 teeth, 8 bolt flywheel. I could do with knowing the PCD. Although, thinking about this, I will be adding a 15-20mm spacer to the bellhousing, so will need to do the same to the flywheel, at which point I'll be looking at using the original flexplate to provide the ring gear, so I guess PCD and diameter are all that matter. Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 00:32 on Feb 4, 2017 |
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Feb 4, 2017 00:10
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This evening I'm looking at ignition drivers. I've spent way too long looking for a suitable driver circuit to run a basic (dumb) ignition coil (a la the ones found on any Duratec around the year 2000). I've settled on a darlington-pair bipolar transistor arrangement, rather than an IGBT, and I'm still not sure why. It seems half of the examples I find online use darlingtons, and the rest use IGBTs. The Speeduino has only 4 ignition outputs, requiring me to pair the drivers in a wasted spark configuration. A common PNP transistor can handle this. The problem is, I'm at a loss as to what 'extra stuff' I need to add. I created an example to show what I'll likely end up building:  Some components, such as the 1k (R8 in this picture) pull-down resistor seem logical. The rest must have a purpose, but their purpose escapes me. Edit: And after a long discussion with members of the Speeduino forum, it turns out that my ideas are sound, but my component choices are making my solution far more complicated than it needs to be. In reality, I can get away with:  Using IGBTs designed specifically for automotive ignition systems. Between them and the Speeduino, all the 'extra' components are covered. Hooray! Progress! Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 01:40 on Feb 5, 2017 |
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Feb 5, 2017 00:21
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I was about to drop in and point out that there are purpose-built ignition coil IGBTs  (those motorola units inside the stock ECU are likely a custom-part-number-for-the-ECU-OEM ignition IGBT that'll be pretty much identical on the inside)Might be worth doublechecking that the coils will work when run in wasted spark as your effective RPM (from the coil's perspective) is doubled; you wouldn't want to run out of coil power / dwell time
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Feb 5, 2017 01:46
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literally a fish posted:Might be worth doublechecking that the coils will work when run in wasted spark as your effective RPM (from the coil's perspective) is doubled; you wouldn't want to run out of coil power / dwell time Good point. No idea how I'd do that! I do know that the ignition in the Jag was not wasted spark. I guess the issues would be a weaker spark due to decreased dwell time, and potential misfiring at high RPM (which I'll be using quite often due to the 4.4:1 final drive. Next up, watch me program a Teensy to interpret the camshaft position sensor to alternate/multiply the ignition outputs!  Edit: Thinking about this, how does wasted spark work on a V6 - where no two pistons are ever at TDC at the same time? Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 02:09 on Feb 5, 2017 |
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Feb 5, 2017 02:07
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It looks like it doesn't need to be at TDC, just in an exhaust stroke.
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Feb 5, 2017 03:19
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