|
A long time ago I had seen a thread about a tool that would let you install windows 7 directly onto the USB and always boot from it into a clean environment. It would basically sterilize itself after every reboot. I think the tool was called deepfreeze or something awful like that. To be clear I'm not talking about a bootable installation I already have a usb flash drive with that. ehh what I'm trying to do is boot a copy of windows from a flash drive. So I can scoot around in my HDD. edit: portable windows 7 enviroment for usb lets burn fucked around with this message at 04:27 on Dec 28, 2016 |
#
?
Dec 28, 2016 04:20
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 05:36 |
|
|
Is there a thread about Servers anywhere? I looked around and don't see one, and don't really think it fits into PC Hardware thread since I'm mostly looking at a pre-built Dell T630 or something, but maybe it's my best option? My (very small) company wants to get a redundant server (currently have a HP ProLiant ML 330 G6) and I'm the defacto IT guy despite being a civil engineer, and a lot of this server poo poo is way over my head. Xaris fucked around with this message at 22:33 on Dec 28, 2016 |
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2016 22:28
|
|
|
Not sure whether this goes in the Windows thread or here. A week or two ago, two nights in a row I had to reset the CMOS. It was spinning up for a few seconds, stopping, repeating automatically until I shut the computer off. I looked it up and that had apparently been a known problem with Windows 10 at one point. I had fallen behind on updates, so I updated, it's been fine since. Except tonight it did the exact same thing. I don't know if that's a coincidence or what. Have people been getting the spin-up loops attempting to load BIOS again? I'm really getting tired of resetting the CMOS. It's not a huge ordeal, but it's a pain in the rear end.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2016 06:38
|
|
|
You shouldn't have to do that for nearly any software issue. Chances are you have an issue that is corrupting your boot files. Replace SATA cables if available/applicable, chase down the error code if the system is throwing one. Check your heat sinks, fans, air flow and give it a dusting. Intermittent issues like this are always a pain.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2016 07:08
|
|
|
Like I said, it was apparently a known issue back in October. Where would I find an error log for something that early? All three times it has started while the computer was sleeping. I'll test and see if it might be related to locking it vs telling it to sleep vs letting it sleep by itself. I don't use the computer that much, just a few times a week. I'll look to see if there are any event logs for around the time I notice it. Maybe that's what you meant to the first place.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2016 09:03
|
|
|
I just bought a Shadow Rock Slim CPU cooler for my machine (http://www.bequiet.com/en/cpucooler/479), and I'm a little confused - there are no directions for installing it on an LGA 1151 socket, but it does have instructions for LGA 1150, 1155, and 1156. Is it compatible with LGA 1151 (despite what the website says) and if so, can I just use the LGA 115x series instructions?
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2016 16:57
|
|
|
LuiCypher posted:I just bought a Shadow Rock Slim CPU cooler for my machine (http://www.bequiet.com/en/cpucooler/479), and I'm a little confused - there are no directions for installing it on an LGA 1151 socket, but it does have instructions for LGA 1150, 1155, and 1156. Is it compatible with LGA 1151 (despite what the website says) and if so, can I just use the LGA 115x series instructions? According to the first question here: https://www.amazon.com/quiet-BK010-SHADOW-Silent-Cooler/dp/B00HPXZF2I Yes! I've got the be quiet Pure Rock on my 3770k and it was a bastard to install, in terms of "I feel like I'm gonna crack my motherboard if I turn this screw one quarter of a turn more!! Help!!". Once on, it's a really good cooler. I can pump my 3770k up to 4.5GHz without it going much above 60 C.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2016 17:23
|
|
|
Xaris posted:My (very small) company wants to get a redundant server (currently have a HP ProLiant ML 330 G6) and I'm the defacto IT guy despite being a civil engineer, and a lot of this server poo poo is way over my head. What does the server do?
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2016 17:26
|
|
|
I installed a new SSD today and I did a clean install of Windows. After it was all set up, I plugged in my old HDDs, one of which still has an installation of Windows on it (i.e. what I was using as my main drive before I got the SSD). Would I be able to switch between booting from the old HDD and new SSD whenever I want to, or would that cause some serious issues?
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2016 01:30
|
|
|
lets burn posted:A long time ago I had seen a thread about a tool that would let you install Deep freeze (.com.au) lets you reset your Windows on reboot, which isn't the same as a portable USB environment. For that, maybe take a look at "Windows To Go"? We have a version of it in my office that has been slightly altered to be forensically sound and lets us run our suite of recovery and analysis tools over a suspect system without altering the source data. If you just want to see what's on your disks from outside of your operating system then any portable OS should suffice so long as it can read your disk format (which is very like yo to be NTFS and fairly universal these days.) You'll only need something Windows-based if you want to run Windows stuff or need to see things in that environment. BartPE is Windows-based, so long as you don't mind it being 32-bit XP.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2016 02:30
|
|
|
Geoj posted:What does the server do?
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2016 16:57
|
|
|
My brother installed Windows, then his mouse stopped working. Then he changed either Legacy USB or PS/2 emulation in the BIOS, and the keyboard stopped working too, so he can't even get into the BIOS. He tried swapping ports, that didn't work. Any ideas before I tell him to reset the CMOS?
22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 00:06 on Jan 1, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2017 00:04
|
|
|
22 Eargesplitten posted:My brother installed Windows, then his mouse stopped working. Then he changed either Legacy USB or PS/2 emulation in the BIOS, and the keyboard stopped working too, so he can't even get into the BIOS. He tried swapping ports, that didn't work. Any ideas before I tell him to reset the CMOS? Use a PS/2 keyboard maybe. But really, just reset it. Then tell him to try to log in to Windows with just his keyboard and see if it'll pick up on the mouse/install its drivers after login.
|
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2017 01:03
|
|
|
Reset it, now the mouse is working in BIOS, but not in Windows. Turn off PS/2 emulation, nothing works in Windows. Legacy USB is enabled. This is the kind of situation where it would be really nice if I were there and could just throw poo poo at a wall until something sticks.
|
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2017 01:47
|
|
|
Have him try another mouse if available or have him try to unplug and re-plug the mouse after logging on. I have a computer where the mouse sometimes pulls the same poo poo and actually being logged on before plugging it in again is the only way to get it to work again.
|
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2017 02:16
|
|
|
22 Eargesplitten posted:Reset it, now the mouse is working in BIOS, but not in Windows. Turn off PS/2 emulation, nothing works in Windows. Legacy USB is enabled. Make sure he's using USB 2.0 ports on the back (if there are any) or the topmost ones if the motherboard is vertical. Sometimes the BIOS only likes devices hooked up to those ports specifically. His devices could also have bad cables that only work sometimes if this is a sudden problem, though.
|
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2017 02:19
|
|
|
Geemer posted:Have him try another mouse if available or have him try to unplug and re-plug the mouse after logging on. That's a weird one. He ended up giving up and going out for the night, then today he could install the drivers for the motherboard and it's working. At least for now. E: No USB 2.0 ports, I'll keep the top 2 thing in mind if this comes up again. I guess I've always unintentionally dodged a bullet there. That's where I put them without even knowing that it mattered.
|
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2017 22:50
|
|
|
I've been playing Overwatch, and it crashes about once every hour or two. I have the latest drivers for my old-rear end GeForce GTX 660, and Memtest86 reports no errors. I'm guessing something is wrong with my video card; is there some sort of diagnostic that I can run on it to see if the RAM is fucky, or if it's overheating or something?
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2017 07:07
|
|
|
You could run GPU-Z and set the logging on in the sensor tab to monitor temperatures.
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2017 00:52
|
|
|
I have an Asrock H97m Pro 4 motherboard. It has 2 CPU fan headers, one 3 pin and one 4 pin. I got a big CPU cooler that has two fans on it, which are both 3 pin. When I plug one fan into the 3 pin and one into the 4 pin, the bios reports the speeds as 500rpm and 1200rpm respectively. Is this ok? Should I get a y adapter and plug them both into the 3 pin instead?
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2017 04:26
|
|
|
FCKGW posted:I have an Asrock H97m Pro 4 motherboard. It has 2 CPU fan headers, one 3 pin and one 4 pin. I got a big CPU cooler that has two fans on it, which are both 3 pin. When I plug one fan into the 3 pin and one into the 4 pin, the bios reports the speeds as 500rpm and 1200rpm respectively. Is this ok? Should I get a y adapter and plug them both into the 3 pin instead?
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2017 05:10
|
|
|
The blowing a fan at the gpu trick appears to work. I tried a few different temp monitoring programs and none of them showed it getting very hot, 60 degrees at the max without blowing a fan on it. The fan on the gpu works, I set it to 100% thru afterburner but it still shuts off. A few times after it turned off, it would turn back on and then turn off right away again. guess I'll uninstall the gpu and see if it makes a difference edit: shut down without the graphics card installed. EwokEntourage fucked around with this message at 06:53 on Jan 3, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2017 06:13
|
|
|
Alereon posted:What cooler? Maybe the fans are meant to spin at those speeds. It's the Thermaltake NiC C4 that I got for free. The fans were way too loud so I replaced them with some Corsair SP120 performance fans and used the 7v step down resister that comes in the box. I'm using a pair of them so I think them running at different speeds isn't what's supposed to happen. The original fans had a Y cable built in. I'm running an i7 4770. I don't plan on overclocking, this is for a Plex/IP Camera server so cool and quiet is what I'm after.
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2017 07:10
|
|
|
The one that's spinning at 500rpm, does it work as expected if not plugged into the 7V adapter? Does the other one still spin at 1200rpm if you swap adapters? Try to isolate the anomaly to a specific fan, adapter or header.
Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 16:39 on Jan 3, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2017 16:34
|
|
|
Is there an arduino thread anywhere? Failing that is there a reason to buy an arduino zero over a MKRZero? The micro touts that is has the same pins, and it's about half the price. Is it just a more modern (smaller) upgrade?
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2017 14:35
|
|
|
gonadic io posted:Is there an arduino thread anywhere? Failing that is there a reason to buy an arduino zero over a MKRZero? The micro touts that is has the same pins, and it's about half the price. Is it just a more modern (smaller) upgrade? Arduino Thread Generally there's clones that cost as little as 10% of the arduino, but they cut corners and can sometimes behave unexpectedly. They're often fine, but if they're not it can be frustrating to waste time on a project because the board isn't quite right. I'm not familiar with the MKRZero specifically, this is just generic advice about arduino knock-offs.
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2017 18:30
|
|
|
I think I might need to replace or otherwise fix the power button on my PC case. My computer is randomly shutting down and turning back on for me. It shuts down like as if I held the case power button down until the screen goes black. And instantly turns itself back on right after that. Before that I thought the PC was overheating, even made a thread for it: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3804027 But nothing seems out of the ordinary with temps. And considering the PC parts are just turning a year old but the case itself is 6 years old I think it's likely that the power button is the one breaking. But I don't know what I'm supposed to do to fix it or replace it. Preliminary google search shows something like this that I can buy, I guess to replace the cable that goes from the Mobo to the power switch: https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Power-Button-Computer-Switch/dp/B009CWY8PA Not sure what to do, and could use some advice. Thanks guys.
|
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2017 04:30
|
|
|
Ularg posted:I think I might need to replace or otherwise fix the power button on my PC case. My computer is randomly shutting down and turning back on for me. It shuts down like as if I held the case power button down until the screen goes black. And instantly turns itself back on right after that.
|
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2017 05:09
|
|
|
Thank you, I'll try that out tonight once I have more energy.
|
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2017 05:39
|
|
|
If your case has a reboot button you can always connect it in place of the power button where they plug into the motherboard.
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2017 01:14
|
|
|
Okay, so I have a 980ti that draws 275W, A mini-itx computer with a 500w PSU, and that computer is hooked up to a 600W UPS (battery backup.) So if I replace the PSU with a 700W, does that mean I need to replace the 600W UPS?
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2017 01:20
|
|
|
Mutant Standard posted:Okay, so I have a 980ti that draws 275W, A mini-itx computer with a 500w PSU, and that computer is hooked up to a 600W UPS (battery backup.)
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2017 01:25
|
|
|
Alereon posted:No, but what kind of UPS? Check the actual watt rating (not the VA rating) and make sure it does true sine wave output. If it's simulated/approximated sine wave your power supply won't like it and will overload the UPS at more than trivial load. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000QZ3UG0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2017 01:57
|
|
|
Mutant Standard posted:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000QZ3UG0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2017 02:02
|
|
|
Alereon posted:That is not an Active PFC-compatible model, you need one with true sine wave output. It would probably shutdown in overload if it switched to battery while your system was under load. The issue is that the power supply looks at the shape of the waveform, and the waveform from cheap UPSes is totally mangled so the power supply ends up drawing brief pulses of high current, which overload the UPS. is this a 700W on a 600W UPC thing or just for computers using a UPS in general?
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2017 02:04
|
|
|
Mutant Standard posted:is this a 700W on a 600W UPC thing or just for computers using a UPS in general? In general, I'm afraid. Supposedly you can get around it by having a UPS with way high rating, but I honestly don't know.
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2017 02:06
|
|
|
Mutant Standard posted:is this a 700W on a 600W UPC thing or just for computers using a UPS in general?
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2017 02:08
|
|
|
Alright, so what's the good alternative?
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2017 02:24
|
|
|
Get one that claims a sine wave or "pure" (not simulated) sine wave output. I use this one. Notice how it says 1000VA/600W; this is because power supplies without Active PFC (as well as some other appliances, I think laser printers are infamous for this) will draw more power from the lines than they actually consume, so the VA measurement indicates how much power can be drawn and the W measurement is how much can be consumed. With Active PFC, you don't really have to care about that because the numbers are within 1% or so of each other. Also, realize that getting a higher-wattage power supply is not going to increase the power draw of your computer unless you're moving from a high-efficiency supply to a lower efficiency one. The DC power draw will be determined by the load - that is, what components you're using - and the AC power draw from the wall or UPS will be equal to that plus some small proportion for conversion inefficiency. Most supplies worth having these days are at least 80% efficient, so the AC power drawn from your UPS will be at most 125% of the DC drawn from the power supply by the PC. Exceptional ones are 90+%. Also, efficiency tends to peak in the middle and drop off for loads near the PSU's limit or very small loads. For that reason, you'll get better efficiency under load from a power supply that has capacity to spare as long as you don't go nuts and get an 850W supply for your HTPC or something like that. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 03:31 on Jan 15, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2017 03:25
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 05:36 |
|
|
Do USB 2.0 ports on a desktop PC provide a standard amperage? I've got 2 small devices that need ~200mA to run, I was wondering if I could power them off the ports of my desktop, it's a Phenom II X4 processor, not sure the exact motherboard right now.
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2017 21:19
|
|
