|
hackbunny posted:I'm considering buying a "toy" car. Requisites are European market, four or five seats, basic amenities (AC at a minimum), power under 180 kW (for tax reasons), 20+ years old and of historical significance (for insurance reasons), and under 10000€. Two cars that look perfect are the Nissan Sunny GTI-R and the Ford Escort RS Cosworth: they're just old enough to be considered historical, they're WRC homologation specials so I could easily register them as collector's cars (flat insurance rate, no emission controls), just under 180 kW and they're both 4WD and so I guess not as immediately deadly as, say, a Renault 5 Turbo (not that you can find any at a sane price) How much of a difference in tax and w/e? If you factor in maintenance costs of a 20+ year old car, the cost of ownership might be a lot higher than just buying a car for 3k~5k and putting the other half of the money towards taxes, insurance and maintenance.
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2017 20:25
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 25, 2024 17:55 |
|
|
hackbunny posted:I'm considering buying a "toy" car. Requisites are European market, four or five seats, basic amenities (AC at a minimum), power under 180 kW (for tax reasons), 20+ years old and of historical significance (for insurance reasons), and under 10000€. Two cars that look perfect are the Nissan Sunny GTI-R and the Ford Escort RS Cosworth: they're just old enough to be considered historical, they're WRC homologation specials so I could easily register them as collector's cars (flat insurance rate, no emission controls), just under 180 kW and they're both 4WD and so I guess not as immediately deadly as, say, a Renault 5 Turbo (not that you can find any at a sane price) I recall from a TV programme that the cosworth uses some unique bits, that makes getting spares difficult. You might want to check that before getting something that it is impossible to keep running.
|
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2017 21:16
|
|
|
astrollinthepork posted:I don't think it's a van or freestyle as it appears to me that there are only two rows of seats. That back glass looks like it leaves enough room for a small cargo area behind the rear seats. The ceiling vents for the Ford freestyle look very similar to the one in the picture however, so it may just be another type of Ford. They usually fold down.
|
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2017 21:56
|
|
|
hackbunny posted:I'm considering buying a "toy" car. Requisites are European market, four or five seats, basic amenities (AC at a minimum), power under 180 kW (for tax reasons), 20+ years old and of historical significance (for insurance reasons), and under 10000€. Two cars that look perfect are the Nissan Sunny GTI-R and the Ford Escort RS Cosworth: they're just old enough to be considered historical, they're WRC homologation specials so I could easily register them as collector's cars (flat insurance rate, no emission controls), just under 180 kW and they're both 4WD and so I guess not as immediately deadly as, say, a Renault 5 Turbo (not that you can find any at a sane price) You can't buy an Escort Cosworth for under €10k. At least not one that doesn't have serious problems and/or a shady history because it's been stolen multiple times.
|
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2017 23:29
|
|
|
spankmeister posted:How much of a difference in tax and w/e? If you factor in maintenance costs of a 20+ year old car, the cost of ownership might be a lot higher than just buying a car for 3k~5k and putting the other half of the money towards taxes, insurance and maintenance. Alright, you made me look up the exact figures. In Italy, yearly dues include a tax and mandatory insurance. 20+ year old vehicles used to be exempt from the tax, but (ah-ha!) not anymore since last year, they now have to be 30+ regardless of historical significance. Collectors are screaming bloody murder about it but I'm afraid the tax is here to stay. Bummer. So I took a license plate number from a photo of an Escort Cosworth I found online, punched it in the tax calculator, and it comes out to 559.70€/year. Jesus. A modern car with roughly the same engine displacement, power and pollution category is the VW Golf GTI Performance, and the yearly tax for a random car found on the internet comes out to 577.94€, which is in the ballpark (I think the higher amount is due to the different region it's registered in). So, not any cheaper anymore, sadly On the insurance front, it's impossible to get a straight answer. Ballpark figures are 700-900€/year, risk adjusted, for a regular car vs 100-200€/year, flat, for a historic car. You have to add around 100€/year for historic cars for the subscription to a recognized collector's club. The car obviously has to be mostly unmolested, and it has to pass inspection, but some used cars for sale are already in the historic car registry so it's one fewer hassle Oh right, I almost forgot, the mandatory inspections. I just checked, and inspections are mandatory every two years for cars older than 4, so I won't count them in the total figure So it comes out to about 1300-1500€/year for a regular car vs 800-1000€. Could be better, but not too shabby I think. Yeah, car ownership in Italy is pretty expensive! If you were wondering about the 180 kW limit, for every kW above the limit, you pay an extra 20€/year tax. It gets ridiculous quickly. Like, for an Alfa Romeo 147 GTA (184 kW/247 hp) it's "just" an extra 80€/year, but a Golf R (221 kW/296 hp) is a whopping 820€/year, on top of the over 500€ you'd pay for the 2L displacement. 30+ cars are exempt from the "supertax" as well, though, not that I could afford any, anyway  Sweevo posted:You can't buy an Escort Cosworth for under €10k. At least not one that doesn't have serious problems and/or a shady history because it's been stolen multiple times. I usually find them around €6-8k. If they cost more, they're usually full of modifications that make me extremely nervous. It's not just that I seriously doubt that aftermarket parts increase the value of a relatively rare car, I don't want to risk getting the car impounded because it doesn't match the registration anymore hackbunny fucked around with this message at 00:23 on Jan 2, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2017 00:13
|
|
|
gently caress italy with a rusty rake, then.
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2017 00:20
|
|
|
Yeah it's eye-opening. This research is curing me of my cravings
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2017 00:27
|
|
|
Deceptor101 posted:
That definitely sounds like the throw out bearing. At the Subaru dealer I watched many a new guy up sell a belt for this exact reason and now tightening would never fix it. Just order a clutch kit and have the flywheel resurfaced.
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2017 03:04
|
|
|
I've been working on my brother's '88 Dodge Shadow (and all K-cars should be pretty similar). He whacked a wall pretty hard on an icy morning about a month ago, so I replaced a control arm and got it aligned. However, it shakes/rattles really hard at idle/low RPM. At first I thought it was a wiring/grounding issue, and I found some grounds that were not connected right, but fixing those didn't solve the problem. I noticed that the motor flops around pretty significantly when shifting from neutral to drive, so I just replaced the engine mounts. However, they weren't bad enough to be metal on metal, and after replacement it's still rough. Tomorrow when it's light I'm gonna make sure the exhaust isn't touching anything it shouldn't. If I can rule that out, what else can it be? I hope it's not a broken flexplate or something like that. I'm just about out of ideas if it's not one of those things.
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2017 06:18
|
|
|
I doubt that would have damaged the flexplate, though anything is possible I don't know how intelligent that ECU is, but have you tried pulling power for a couple of minutes to reset it? Also, did you replace ALL of the mounts? The rear one is always the biggest bitch on a FWD, but it's the one that takes the most abuse. Also, you've already made sure the front subframe wasn't damaged, right?
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2017 10:57
|
|
|
Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:I doubt that would have damaged the flexplate, though anything is possible I only recommend the flywheel resurface because it's right there easy to do and if it's like other Subarus I have seen will be hott spotted like a mofo and need a general once over for a smooth finish.
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2017 21:02
|
|
|
.
sincx fucked around with this message at 06:29 on Mar 23, 2021 |
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2017 21:31
|
|
|
Time to buy a Chevy SSR my friend.
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2017 21:36
|
|
|
sincx posted:What pickup trucks are/were manufactured with two bucket seats in a regular cab, and no other seats? Jeep comanches and single cab ford rangers.
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2017 22:03
|
|
|
Some single cab s-10s have them as well. My dad's 2002 s-10 has 'em and they aren't bad.
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2017 22:55
|
|
|
sincx posted:What pickup trucks are/were manufactured with two bucket seats in a regular cab, and no other seats? Comedy option: Holden ute. Even comedy-er option: Holden Sandman ute.
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2017 23:24
|
|
|
My dad's 80s Hilux had just two bucket seats. Spent a lot of time as a kid with my little brother and sister riding doubled up in the passenger seat and me riding up on the console.
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2017 00:42
|
|
|
sincx posted:What pickup trucks are/were manufactured with two bucket seats in a regular cab, and no other seats? I'm pretty sure almost every model of Chevy half ton truck since the 1960's has been available with a regular cab. Most will have a bench, but the GMT400 came with buckets in most years. poo poo, you can still buy a GMC Sierra with a regular cab, but it's got a folding console in the center.
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2017 00:53
|
|
|
Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:I doubt that would have damaged the flexplate, though anything is possible I have reset the computer, yes. It doesn't have a rear mount, it has a passenger side mount (comes out of the timing belt cover) and a front mount (side of block to lower radiator support). There is also a transmission mount on the driver side, which I didn't replace (because I didn't think to buy a replacement ahead of time), but it looked fine. As far as I can tell, nothing structural has moved from where it should be. It looks like the LCA took most of the damage, although the impact also pushed around the fender and grille a bit. Plus, it aligned fine. Is there something else I should have checked?
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2017 01:47
|
|
|
I got nothin, except I'm surprised about the lack of rear motor mount on a FWD.
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2017 03:16
|
|
|
Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:I got nothin, except I'm surprised about the lack of rear motor mount on a FWD. It's got the exhaust down the back, probably would interfere with that.
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2017 04:57
|
|
|
I live in Washington, and the 2011 ranger I just got does not have a front license plate bracket. I can jury rig it with steel zip ties like I did the last one, or I can get an OEM one and install it without drilling the bumper? This looks like it should need drilling but... I can't tell for sure. https://www.autopartscheaper.com/2008-2011-Ford-Ranger-Genuine-Front-License-Plate-p/8l5z-17a385-a.htm
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2017 03:08
|
|
|
Anyone have a suggestion for a big auto salvage company that sells their parts online? New replacement headlight switches for my 200SX are expensive, so I'm hoping some place with enough volume might have what I need.
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2017 07:20
|
|
|
Lots of them list parts like that on ebay.
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2017 07:22
|
|
|
Detective Thompson posted:Anyone have a suggestion for a big auto salvage company that sells their parts online? New replacement headlight switches for my 200SX are expensive, so I'm hoping some place with enough volume might have what I need. In addition to ebay, check car-part.com. They index a lot of smaller shops. Plus, check row52.com and see if there is an applicable donor at a self-serve yard around you. Several 90s 200SXs near me.
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2017 07:25
|
|
|
I like turtles posted:I live in Washington, and the 2011 ranger I just got does not have a front license plate bracket. I can jury rig it with steel zip ties like I did the last one, or I can get an OEM one and install it without drilling the bumper? This looks like it should need drilling but... I can't tell for sure. https://www.autopartscheaper.com/2008-2011-Ford-Ranger-Genuine-Front-License-Plate-p/8l5z-17a385-a.htm Does your front bumper have the little bezel you remove for the tow hook? They make several different plate brackets that screw into those. I've also seen one or two brackets that are L-shaped. They mount to the frame under the bumper. Some of those are model specific though.
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2017 17:31
|
|
|
My moms bf accidentally put a bit of tap water and windex into the coolant instead of the windscreen wash bottle. How bad would this be? I advised her to get a coolant flush done but her bf is a stingy autist and doesn't think there is a problem with it and he's refusing. (They co-own the car.) The car uses the red coolant (g12 iirc), gasoline engine.
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2017 17:41
|
|
|
I would flush it unless it was some 60 degree GM eating coolant through the intake manifold gasket
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2017 18:02
|
|
|
Has it been driven? I'd at least replace what's in the bottle. "What can happen" will depend on chemistry. Probably one of three things: 1-nothing 2-a chemical reaction that will precipitate silicate (sand) out of the coolant mixture, which will clog and ruin the heater core and radiator. I just spent about a grand to repair this kind of work on my own vehicle. Shop quotes were in the neighborhood of $3k for repairs. 3-a chemical reaction that will eat away at gaskets or even metal. Godholio fucked around with this message at 18:05 on Jan 4, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2017 18:03
|
|
|
Godholio posted:Has it been driven? I'd at least replace what's in the bottle. Yes it has. It's been well circulated by this point i'm sure.
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2017 18:04
|
|
|
spankmeister posted:Yes it has. It's been well circulated by this point i'm sure. The tap water won't hurt anything. The Windex probably won't given how much it will be diluted (if it's only "a bit") since it's mostly water anyway. Don't worry about it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2017 18:10
|
|
|
spankmeister posted:My moms bf accidentally put a bit of tap water and windex into the coolant instead of the windscreen wash bottle I don't understand this part. Instead of the washer fluid?
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2017 18:29
|
|
|
I have a 05 Accord, but I'm assuming this problem is not specific to any make or model: I've noticed that the gas gauge needle has shifted towards the Full position over the past couple of years. So when the gas tank is full it's past the F, and when the reserve light comes on the needle hasn't yet gotten to the red zone above the E. I don't really know how the gas tank float is connected to the needle, I'm guessing through electronics, but is this likely to be a change in the float, or how the rheostat reads float height or a change somewhere behind the dashboard?
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2017 18:45
|
|
|
Michael Scott posted:I don't understand this part. Instead of the washer fluid? Yes, washer fluid. The English word had escaped me.
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2017 20:14
|
|
|
spankmeister posted:Yes, washer fluid. The English word had escaped me. Am I crazy? I understood you meant washer fluid, but it's okay to pour washer fluid instead of coolant?
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2017 20:16
|
|
|
Michael Scott posted:Am I crazy? I understood you meant washer fluid, but it's okay to pour washer fluid instead of coolant? He wanted to put the mix of windex and water into the washer fluid reservoir. Instead, it got poured into the coolant reservoir.
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2017 20:19
|
|
|
Oh!!!! Sorry, my coffee has ran out. Thank you.
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2017 20:21
|
|
|
Booley posted:He wanted to put the mix of windex and water into the washer fluid reservoir. Instead, it got poured into the coolant reservoir. My moms bf did yeah, I'm not that stupid. 
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2017 20:57
|
|
|
2002 Lexus IS300, sedan ~135k miles Engine light came on, had my mechanic check the code. Bank 1 Sensor 2 - O2 sensor. This one: http://a.co/5P1yoUJ I go to replace it today and the connectors are different! The sensor looks the exact same in every way except for the connector. I searched all over for Bank 1 Sensor 2 and that's the sensor it said to get. The threads fit, the sensor fits, it's just the connector that's different. So did I get the wrong sensor or do I need to do some soldering and splice the old connector onto the new sensor? Here's a pic, new connector left, old connector right. You can see that even the plastic connector housings are shaped different. 
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2017 23:48
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 25, 2024 17:55 |
|
|
Any advice on small engine repair/maintenance? I have a chipper/shredder that I want to get running but it's been outside for 5 years or thereabout.
|
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2017 00:37
|
|
