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Pre-96 should be EEC-IV which is super well documented and hosed with thoroughly at this point. zf5 rebuild kits can be had for under 200, use atf in it and not detergent motor oil/gear oils :| Expect usual ford things too. TREs. Ball joints. suspension poo poo. 92+ got better pedalboxes/bulkheads that were less prone to breaking/cracking/flexing/fuckingoff. TTB likes to single sided deathwobble. its funny to watch. Wiring should be fine by that vintage. they cleaned up a lot of the bullshit in 92 with the redesign. (sans the lol abs recall)
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Dec 9, 2016 16:59
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Speak of the devil, a 1996 4wd extended cab, 300ci 5 speed just popped up on local craigslist. (Unfortunately it looks a bit rough)
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Dec 9, 2016 19:26
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Just mentioning "cold a/c" would have sold that truck for double his asking price where I'm at.
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Dec 11, 2016 07:37
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I've been having a dog of a time getting a smooth idle when it's cold out. Anything under, say, 50 degrees, and it's a bear. Plenty of power when running, but when returning to idle, it tends to dip down, then recover. Sometimes it pulses. I know the carburetor has issues, and I've got a solution for that hopefully coming in tomorrow. Still, though, I need to fix the root problem, and that's the lack of intake preheat. Every single website that sells carburetors and intake kits recommends that you don't do a single center progressive on the Type 4, because there are no exhaust setups stock that offer intake preheat tubes. Some people who do center carbs try to fix this by welding their own intake exhaust preheat tubes up, or add "thermal reflectors" (aluminum sheets) over the intake pipes, so block heat is trapped. Others make pipes that go from a shroud around an exhaust header, and run it to a cardboard box built around the air cleaner, and I myself may do something like that. However, the vast majority of people simply live with it, or don't drive in the winter. I'm going to trial something different. I don't know how long it'll survive, or if it'll even work, but for $40 it's worth a shot. First thing, I stripped out the old heater booster fan wires and relay. The way it worked is a switch on the front heater lever grounded pin 86 on a relay, which was powered from the alternator voltage regulator output, to prevent you from draining the battery without the engine running. This relay switched a big honkin' fused lead straight from the battery, to the heater fan. However, being 44 years old and in an engine compartment led to these failing often.      Superior German Engineering  I cut the heater fan wiring loom back until I was past the crispy bits, and wired that into a stock 5-pin automotive relay. Bad pic, ignore the kapton tape (taped up a test light)   I've wired this down to a set of four, 10x200mm, "7.5W" 12V heaters. Currently they only have a small bead of arctic silver [knockoff] compound in a strip on the bottom, and I've kapton-taped them to the intake runners.   So, with the engine running, I can pull the once-unused (used to open the flaps to the exhaust heater boxes) heater lever all the way down, and it clicks over the relay, which turns on the silicone heating strips. Before buttoning everything up, I got the engine running, and tested it. They warmed up right quick, to the point they were nearly too hot to touch. This is hopefully going to be much better than having icy-cold runners. I've honestly seen condensation on them after a freeway run to work. I also smeared a thin coating of copper RTV on top and in the sides of the silicone strips, to give them a little more sticktivity for the next week or so of testing. If everything works out, I'm going to wrap some insulating fiberglass/silicone tape over them, and call it good. I'm aware the best place to put them would be on the bottom of the runners, as that is where gasoline vapor is probably condensing and running down to, but that's a right pain in the dick with everything installed. Plus, as-is, if one burns out, I can rip it up without disassembling anything. I have no idea what kind of lifespan these little (I'm assuming) nichrome-mica heaters have. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 00:49 on Dec 18, 2016 |
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Dec 18, 2016 00:46
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While that's curing, need a flashlight mount. Boom.  And, new dashcam mount designed to be epoxied or silicone'd to the glass. gently caress suction cups forever.  Also, while we put our tree up last weekend, neither of us have been able to find our box of "unique" ornaments. We found all of the baubles, but not the unique, antique, licensed (M&M, etc) ornaments. So, I've spent all the printer downtime the last few days printing out ornaments. Plan is to get some acrylic paints and paint them up as a good weekend project.  Sorry about the bunk photos. I sold the Lumix G5 camera to fund this year's christmas. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 03:08 on Dec 18, 2016 |
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Dec 18, 2016 02:58
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All right, only had time for a ten minute drive, but it seems better, even with this carburetor. Not perfect, but, better. Went back and felt the runners, and they're definitely not nearly as cold as before. Tops were warm, bottoms were chilly, but not frost-inducing, and that's a step forwards. If this works, it's only a hair over 3 amps of current for all four of them. I've save that much, per bulb, moving to LED lights for the running and turn signals, so I can spare to do another heater on each runner if I find out that I need more heating.
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Dec 18, 2016 09:26
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Didn't you spec them at 7.5W each? That's quite a disparity, especially considering you're overdriving the voltage a little bit by running them on automotive "12V" (14.5V).
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Dec 18, 2016 10:36
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7.5 watts at 12v should be 625mA each, which is 2.5 amps all four. I measured 3.0x amps with a meter, but that was at startup at 13.5ish volts, and I don't know if it changes as they warm up. Hence the quotation marks around the "7.5" earlier. Never trust weird, purchased-for-cheap-but-usually-expensive Chinese products. As an aside, about the "14.5V". I haven't actually seen that on my built-in meter since I installed it, which was after I switched everything to LED. These heaters are hooked up to the voltage regulator output, which also needs to be coupled to an incandescent light bulb (in ACVW's, the "alternator" light on the dashboard) to energize the alternator coils, to allow it to output usable voltage. Ever since I have had a built-in meter, I've only seen north of 14.1, tops, running. That's fine for charging all of my batteries, so I stuck with the reading. At first, the bus wouldn't charge after switching the dash lights to LED, so I had to put a 5W resistor in line with the alternator light to get the voltage regulator/alternator to start outputting a charging voltage. However, when I turn these heating elements on, the output voltage jumps up to exactly 14.5 volts. I think my resistor on the dash light wasn't enough, I guess. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 10:46 on Dec 18, 2016 |
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Dec 18, 2016 10:43
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Ah, ok. I was assuming a higher voltage so ~2A, so a 50% deviation seemed like a lot. But I guess it's not, really. I guess it doesn't matter at all for what you're doing, since you just want to get in the ballpark anyway. Nevermind!
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Dec 18, 2016 10:59
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Even semi modern cars run into issues when you swap warning lights for LEDs. It's kinda surprising how many cars still run the alternator's field through the dash warning light. My 99 Altima didn't like having the alternator warning light swapped for an LED. It would charge, but if it was a warm start, you'd have to blip the throttle to get it to charge and get rid of the light, and the light would start flickering if you thought about lugging it. A cold start would have it start working pretty much instantly, since cold start meant it would jump up past 2k briefly once it fired. Incandescent bulb? It would charge with no issue even if you lugged the poo poo out of the engine. That car used a plain old 194 bulb for the alternator warning light, which seems... excessive. I guess more for the power draw than anything. My 95 Civic would keep the CEL dimly lit when swapped for LED. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 12:46 on Dec 18, 2016 |
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Dec 18, 2016 12:44
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Yeah, kind of weird that turning on a big resistive load actually increases the charging voltage, but old cars/engineering, I guess. Funny that aftermarket stuff, like 1 wire alternators, just do everything internally and magically, like it should be. And even if one did a one-wire conversion, you could still rig up the warning light, just one side to battery and other side, through a diode, to alternator output. But no, we need to energize the windings through a resistive load, bah. Today, hopefully, I have (yet another) new carburetor coming in. And by "new" I mean "Amazon Warehouse, Used - Like New," so hopefully a simple returned item and not something somebody has hosed with. It's what the Lumix camera gave up its life for. The carburetor I got from <man, really bad time with names> here about a year ago was much better than the dual empi carbs by a mile, but it has a lot of wear on the primary venturi due to a spring rubbing, so it can't really idle worth a drat unless you crank it up due to the air leak at the butterfly. Also, the adjustment screws are towards the front of the bus, against the firewall. On a set-and-forget carb in good tune, this wouldn't be anything more than a minor annoyance, but on this I'm having some issues. I discovered that the DFEV, what I have now, is simply a mirror of the DGEV (DFV/DGV - the "E" stands for "Electronic choke", the "A" in "DGAV" stands for "Aqua/water choke"). The throttle linkage is still on the driver's side, and in the correct direction, but all of the adjustment screws are flipped around. A few vintage aftermarket Jeep manifolds I guess used the Weber 32/36 DGV, as well as the stock Suzuki Samurai for a few years. Other than that, most aftermarket kits used the DFV, including aftermarket VW kits. But I see no reason why I can't used the DGV myself, so I ordered it. From what I can read and gather, the Weber 32/36 progressive is all over the place, but a lumpy and difficult-to-set idle is the norm for them, unless they're new and set up properly in the first place. I also gather that it's nearly 100% down to linkage adjustment, which is what I've been fighting, and what damaged this carburetor. Despite the bad idle, though, it's still a great-performing carb, and I got 17.5 mpg on the last few fill-ups with it, so it can't be all bad. Weber also makes a "38 dual" or, more commonly titled, "38x38" carburetor, which is the same body as the 32x36, but the two barrels are linked by a gear to open at the same time. Easier to adjust, but much worse economy. Here's the progressive linkage:  Here's the 38x38 linkage: 
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Dec 18, 2016 22:08
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Welp, the forums ate a big reply I typed last night, I guess. Oh well. Recap of the post: new carb came in, installed, could not get to idle. Discovered old carb had a size 80 idle jet, new carb has size 55. The primary idle jets are literally the only parts of the two carbs that are not compatible - the jet on the new one is larger, because some version of the DGV had a solenoid shutoff valve for OEM installations (Suzuki Samurai, etc). Most installs online by people say they use a 50, 60, or even 70, but not an 80. It could be a weird massive vacuum leak I have, or it could just be the setup, but I've had an 80 this entire time, and it's been used by both me and the forum member here that I got the carburetor from on their 2l, AND I passed emissions with it on an idle setup, so I'm not going to dwell on it too much. I could also get the bus to idle, badly, by slightly unscrewing the idle jet, allowing fuel to bypass it, confirming my hunch. That was yesterday. Today, I drove around to carburetor shops, trying to find new idle jets. Turns out that Weber is like the redheaded stepchild of carburetors or something, because nobody other than VW shops carry parts or jets for them. Holley, Mikuni, Keihin, Solex, Edelbrock, and even Rochester. But not Weber. And, the largest idle jet size any of the VW shops carried was 55. I saw that I could order them from ebay for $10 apiece (I'd order a 70 and 80), but I really wanted to get it done today. Today is also my scheduled "adjust valves on beetle" day, but I had been driving the beetle all over town to search for these jets, so I needed to let the engine cool. In that time, I pulled the size 55 idle jet, and drilled it out a tiny bit, first with a few wires pulled from a throttle cable, and then with a paperclip, with three sides filed down into a triangular cross-section, like a reamer. During my searches last night/this morning online, I had found a reference by somebody that said the size of the side holes on the jet is approximately a "90" or "100" in jet size. I found a paper clip that fit a tiny bit loosely inside the side hole of the jet, and used that as my final reamer/drill bit, to get something hopefully approaching an "80" in size. Here's a picture of the jet for reference  I had to go back and forth drilling it out with steel wire, testing it on the bus, and coming back inside to drill out some more before I got up to the paperclip size. I know I have the "proper" jets coming in, but this will hopefully give me a backup second vehicle until they do. Put the drilled idle jet back in, started it up, spent a few minutes loving around with the screws, and I think it's good enough for today. Pictures!   The linkage I made up. Drilled and tapped the hole that was for the accelerator pump arm on the other carburetor, then had to add a weak spring to pull the throttle back down. Wasn't reliably returning all the time, and the intake hose clamp lines up perfectly. Hope that's not bad practice.  And here's what those heaters look like after smearing with some silicone. I think they're working out beautifully. The bottoms of the pipes still chill out, but the top half is easily warm. By the time the engine really gets air flowing through it that would ice the pipes up, like on the freeway, there's already enough heat coming from the heads up the pipes to mitigate most cooling. The silicone heaters are more like warm insulators at that point, which is enough. Base of the carburetor still freezes, though. 
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Dec 19, 2016 22:10
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I think I sent you some carb parts but I don't even remember 100% either anymore. If it was me glad it worked out for a while anyway, haha. I also still have a bunch of acvw stuff that I probably won't ever need. I should just send it all to you.
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Dec 19, 2016 22:27
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I think I bought it from a dude with a wrestler avatar? I don't know, my memory is shot. I also got other carb parts for the beetle from people from time to time. I think everybody has a small pile of ACVW parts in their garage somewhere - when I sold/traded the motorcycle to the guy with the scooter, he straight-up gave me a carburetor (a Weber DGV like I bought, but 20 years old and clapped out, unusable due to wear). The guy I went to trade the beetle to, who's wife cancelled the trade ( ), had a bunch of parts in his garage, including a smallblock.Just finished adjusting valves on the beetle. Passenger side, all a tiny bit tight, but equally so (.004 instead of .006 like I adjust to). Driver's side: intake valves .006, exhaust valves tight, .003 or thereabouts. Adjusted exhaust back to .006, left the intakes as-is. Also snapped some photos of the heads next to the valves. I knew the heads were aftermarket, but never bothered actually looking them up.  
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Dec 19, 2016 23:09
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Suggestion: Find some rubber hose that has an inside diameter that's close to the outside diameter of the intake runners and either slip it on or slit it and fasten with metal cable ties. Maybe some of that crinkly gently caress wire loom would work.
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Dec 20, 2016 09:19
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Vanagoon posted:Suggestion: I think maybe that split foam insulation for water pipes might work pretty good. Don't know how flammable it is or isn't, though.
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Dec 20, 2016 09:42
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I'm constantly amazed by how much you have to mess with stuff on these cars to keep them going. Keep on keeping on, you crazy bastard.
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Dec 20, 2016 15:24
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The question is, will the foam hold in the heat, or exclude the block radiant heat and hold in the "cold" from the carburetor?
Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 17:10 on Dec 20, 2016 |
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Dec 20, 2016 16:23
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Still no buyer for the beetle. And we're about to test how resilient my "engineering" on the bus is
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Jan 1, 2017 09:15
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Buyer for the bug! $3k on Saturday. Of course, 3 hours after agreeing to the 3k, an old fart offers his pristine 1967 F250 in trade  E: bug Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 00:23 on Jan 6, 2017 |
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Jan 5, 2017 21:42
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:pristine 1967 F250 in trade Go on.
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Jan 5, 2017 21:45
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Still no buyer for the beetle. Metal Geir Skogul posted:Buyer for the bus! $3k on Saturday. Keeping the Beetle now?
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Jan 5, 2017 22:16
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IOwnCalculus posted:Keeping the Beetle now? I was going to say. After all that work to make the bus a home away from home?
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Jan 5, 2017 22:22
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Goodbye dragonbus. 
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Jan 6, 2017 00:02
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I can't believe you are going to sell the bus after all you went through to get it here and get it fixed up. Hope that was a typo.
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Jan 6, 2017 00:14
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I meant beetle! Bug! Bug!
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Jan 6, 2017 00:22
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cursedshitbox posted:Go on. He just wanted to chat about the beetle but apparently it's a big v8 of some sort he did a full engine and transmission restore on a few years ago. He bought it new and has had it garaged since. His winter driver, I guess, since forever. Only stays in Phoenix 4 months a year.
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Jan 6, 2017 00:26
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Beetle is gone, I've got 3 grand. Now to pay off a credit card or two.
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Jan 7, 2017 18:33
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Grats on the sale, although does this mean you don't have any backup transportation for the bus now?
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Jan 7, 2017 18:37
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Nope 
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Jan 7, 2017 18:43
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Tease. What did you do/buy?
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Jan 8, 2017 00:49
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No, I mean nope, I don't have backup transportation. Though I do have a non-vehicle secret to unveil in March, maybe.
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Jan 8, 2017 02:29
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JUst FYI but Enterprise has a pretty killer 9.99 weekend rate I can get a car for Friday-Monday for $33 total. Comes in handy
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Jan 8, 2017 04:06
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Cheaper than Ubers to work!
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Jan 8, 2017 05:58
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Cheaper than Ubers to work! Seriously I just got my wife a new car but with this deal if her and the kids need to go out of town for the weekend why not? Of course take into account t I have really good insurance with back up credit card covers the difference if something happens.
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Jan 8, 2017 06:26
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Okay did not expect this much regret in selling the beetle. Only had it 3 years. And, it was starting to play knock-knock jokes on startup, and was generally unsafe. But, I regret it a little. This is the first car I've sold off and not scrapped or lunched. Weird.
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Jan 9, 2017 09:28
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Just remember, now you only have one ACVW to bugger around with while you save up pennies for this: http://phoenix.craigslist.org/wvl/cto/5943437478.html E: Or this: http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/5951563544.html Or this: http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/5951552577.html Fermented Tinal fucked around with this message at 14:21 on Jan 9, 2017 |
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Jan 9, 2017 14:16
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That f150  That Jeep battery cable 
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Jan 9, 2017 19:58
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Today, I learned two things. One: When you think it's a carburetor problem, it's electrical. When you think it's electrical problem, it's the carburetor. Two: Points gap and dwell may need to be adjusted 500 miles or so after installation, because the pad on the points may compress and cause the points to not open all the way (or for long enough, too long of a dwell angle) intermittently, causing worsening stumbling and backfiring over a short time period.
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Jan 13, 2017 09:02
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| # ? May 13, 2024 22:24 |
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(in short I thought the day after I sold the beetle I was having bad electrical issues but turns out it was just the points cam pad compressing) Big updates soon, hopefully.
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Jan 15, 2017 05:55
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