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Finally got some welding done with the 120 amp AC unit I picked up for $40. The 2.5mm electrodes seemed to work better than the 3.2mm ones, even though I was running the former at 90 amps and the latter at 120. I actually got the welder 10 days ago but figured my 5 year old mask would be up to the job. It was not. 7 days of weld flash later and I ponied up for a $140 Lincoln helmet and so far so good. Is there a rule of thumb for the width of the beads you lay on a piece of metal? Something like 3 times the width of the electrode? Mudfly fucked around with this message at 15:21 on Dec 30, 2016 |
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Dec 30, 2016 12:00
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Mudfly posted:Finally got some welding done with the 120 amp AC unit I picked up for $40. The 2.5mm electrodes seemed to work better than the 3.2mm ones, even though I was running the former at 90 amps and the latter at 120. If you are doing a weave, your weave shouldn't be any wider than 3 times the width of the electrode.
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Jan 2, 2017 01:56
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CBJamo posted:Does anyone have a strong opinion about everlast welders? Particularly the POWERTIG 185. I'm looking for a ac tig machine for aluminum, up to 1/4in. I'll need a plasma cutter as well, so the POWERPRO 164SI is also of interest. Is a combined unit like that a good idea/deal? I have the older version of that PowerTIG 185 (doesn't have the buttons on the front) and I've found it to be a great machine. I use it for my own hobbyist work (fabricating and repairing motorcycle parts, mostly), up to and including 1/4" aluminum, and it's great. I also use it fairly heavily a few times a year to weld frames for a high school robotics team that I work with and it's always stood up well. The torch it comes with is air-cooled, and I think it has a 30% duty cycle at max current (185A). 100% duty cycle at 120A or so, which is plenty for most work. It'll get hot in the hand, though. The torch fittings are standard though so you can get a water-cooled model if you want, obviously. The torch it comes with has a pushbutton trigger; the pedal is about $80 IIRC, and you'll want one for miscellaneous work (as opposed to production work) so factor that in. Works great on AC and DC. Variable frequency is super nice for focusing the arc. The machine is a bit noisy, fans come on full whenever it's on, but it's not painfully loud or anything. If you're doing AC the buzz will drown out the fans anyway. One of the old shop guys made fun of me for getting a green welder instead of a blue or red one, but for everything I've been doing it's just as good as a Miller Diversion at like a third of the cost. No experience with the plasma cutter but I'd certainly give their model a shot, based on the quality of the TIG.
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Jan 2, 2017 19:12
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Travers Canada is having a sale right now and I just bought some stub length drill bits, and some carbide insert tooling for my lathe. Didn't really need the insert tooling but it will be useful. I have been wanting stub drills for ages, but just couldn't convince myself to shell out for them. Super happy to finally order a set.
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Jan 3, 2017 20:31
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I've started melting aluminum cans and trying to make small ingots using a few different muffin pans. I made sure they are steelish but my aluminum keeps getting stuck in the pan and when I try to hammer it out the cup just pops out. Is there a better way to use a muffin pan for easy ingot molds?
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Jan 4, 2017 02:23
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knowonecanknow posted:I've started melting aluminum cans and trying to make small ingots using a few different muffin pans. I made sure they are steelish but my aluminum keeps getting stuck in the pan and when I try to hammer it out the cup just pops out. Is there a better way to use a muffin pan for easy ingot molds? I've only casted ingots with precious metals before but my guess is you aren't using a release agent. When I did it my choice was to either choke up on the torch for a few seconds to get a sooty flame or buy and use a spray release agent that did the same thing (a layer of "dirt" on the mold to keep the ingot from sticking to it). I have no idea what is used for larger scale and base metal ingots but it ought to be similar, maybe? Or just coat a muffin pan in regular soot and try it, I take no responsibility for whether or not that would work or is advisable though.
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Jan 4, 2017 05:09
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I have some 50mm x 5mm flat bar and an abrasive chop saw and I'm having issues cutting it. The bar will cut if you place it vertically in the vice like so: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p3kjak2CJF8 But if you place it flat it simply won't cut, you will just make marks on the surface, like so: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b_MlcvV4Mmc Why doesn't the second method work? Is it dangerous to attempt? Something to do with the abrasive particles not being evacuated from the cut? edit: Did a bit more research, found a forum recommending to only do it the first way. Mudfly fucked around with this message at 13:21 on Jan 4, 2017 |
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Jan 4, 2017 08:45
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I think it's more that the metal chips aren't being cleared efficiently and end up gumming the abrasive disc. If you think about the chips or particles or whatever that come off closest to you having to be dragged all the way to the back of the cut before they're free, you can get a feel for what's happening there. A similar thing happens with a toothed blade if the teeth per inch are too low for the length of the cut, or probably more accurately the tooth depth isn't large enough to carry the chip out of the cut.
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Jan 4, 2017 14:52
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Turbinosamente posted:I've only casted ingots with precious metals before but my guess is you aren't using a release agent. When I did it my choice was to either choke up on the torch for a few seconds to get a sooty flame or buy and use a spray release agent that did the same thing (a layer of "dirt" on the mold to keep the ingot from sticking to it). I have no idea what is used for larger scale and base metal ingots but it ought to be similar, maybe? Or just coat a muffin pan in regular soot and try it, I take no responsibility for whether or not that would work or is advisable though. Thanks, I'll give this a whirl.
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Jan 4, 2017 15:33
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Brekelefuw posted:Travers Canada is having a sale right now and I just bought some stub length drill bits, and some carbide insert tooling for my lathe. jobber drills are all good and well for general-purpose work but for every metalworking occasion I've had to actually make full use of their length there have probably been 10 times when I got frustrated at their lack of rigidity and eagerness to walk way the hell off the meticulously-centerpunched target
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Jan 4, 2017 16:53
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Abrasive saw chat:. I've pretty much determined that abrasive chop saws are loving worthless for things over 1", it takes way too long and draws way too much current. Portable band saws are the Lord God and I shall be their prophet.
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Jan 4, 2017 21:38
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knowonecanknow posted:the cup just pops out. Eh? Are you using something other than the pressed steel/teflon coated trays? I use dollar tree cake trays and never had this problem. You can turn the ingot out after a couple of minutes - in fact it's easier this way as any connecting material can be tapped with something to separate any ingots that have stuck together. I have since made a brick shaped ingot mold from mild steel and it's never stuck to that either, they just fall out when tipped over. TBH melting down tins isn't worth the effort. They have a plastic liner and paint and leave a lot of crap that has to be skimmed off, almost more than the amount of aluminium you harvest when I tried it. Go to a scrap yead and get some cast car parts. Rapulum_Dei fucked around with this message at 22:10 on Jan 4, 2017 |
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Jan 4, 2017 22:05
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I made a joke post in my HS reunion facebook page about my business making and selling custom sex furniture. (I don't.) And I've gotten a lot of private messages. I think this is how my gently caress furniture business starts. Threat title will be kept in mind.
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Jan 5, 2017 20:00
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I'd totally make gear like that if someone ever asked me to. No one has ever asked me to 
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Jan 5, 2017 21:03
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weird niche goods are absolutely the work-smarter-not-harder way to make this poo poo viable. i know a toronto smith who made himself a bed with a headboard of forged roses and snakes and he brought the headboard alone to a booth he was working at a big craft fair just to show off and, altho he didnt sell anything he intended to sell, someone approached him about the bed with a low-five-figure offer because it turns out she was a pro domme wanting to stock her lair
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Jan 5, 2017 21:06
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Speaking of weird niche goods, does anybody actually want cast aluminum Dickbutts / Fury Road skull shifters badly enough to pay? And or did I just violate some rule by asking that? (I need to fix a bunch of little things before I get back to that though)
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Jan 5, 2017 21:07
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mekilljoydammit posted:Speaking of weird niche goods, does anybody actually want cast aluminum Dickbutts / Fury Road skull shifters badly enough to pay? YES
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Jan 5, 2017 21:09
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I guess that's my cue to get my rear end back in gear then.
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Jan 5, 2017 21:10
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Did none of you see the dildomancy thread earlier this year? The first thing I would do with your aluminum dickbutt is recast it in medical grade silicone and sell them by the dozen.
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Jan 5, 2017 21:36
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 Wanted to forge "something, anything" + an excuse to gently caress around with twists so I made myself a titanium cocktail spoon. tiny stuff is so fiddly, I think this is 3/16" stock? lighting is trash, as per usual, so it obliterates the anodization colours which are mottled real nice across a lot of the crook n twists. the sheperd's crook is way too small for the rest of it but it's what my round-nose pliers give me, I should make a quick jig or two for bigger round bends.
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Jan 5, 2017 21:48
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Nice miniature spanking ladle.
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Jan 5, 2017 22:56
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cakesmith handyman posted:Nice urethral sounding rod.
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Jan 5, 2017 23:02
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Money will make people do some weird stuff. And build things for weird stuff! The frame itself seems pretty easy. Gussets are easy enough to draw up and cut on the plasma table. Stainless steel chain, shackles, 3/4T hoist, should be good. Then, uh.... about the actual swing and cuffs. I ain't got no clue. But it looks like some people want me to make cuck furniture for them.  E: I'm not an engineer who figures out what to build out of, I just build and cut out what's on the plans, but 1/8" wall tube should be plenty strong with 1/4" gussets, right? What's the worst this thing could see, a 350lb person in a swing rocking back and forth? E2: I mean, that's gotta be way, way overkill, right? Rotten Cookies fucked around with this message at 23:35 on Jan 5, 2017 |
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Jan 5, 2017 23:25
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Somewhat related, who was it in here that forged the sweet, leafy shackles? Slungblade? Ambrose?
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Jan 5, 2017 23:34
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Rotten Cookies posted:Somewhat related, who was it in here that forged the sweet, leafy shackles? Slungblade? Ambrose? That was Ambrose, iirc. Maybe leper? Wasn't me in any case. E:. Eeeehhhh, plan for bigger people honestly. Build it strong, like a squat cage, for rapid impacts repeated over short intervals. Slung Blade fucked around with this message at 23:46 on Jan 5, 2017 |
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Jan 5, 2017 23:42
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yeah that was me. i never ended up trying to sell em cause i'm fond of em, plus i still have the jigs i made so i could prolly make another set toot sweet  
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Jan 5, 2017 23:48
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machining: the final frontier http://i.imgur.com/BNsdHfg.mp4
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Jan 5, 2017 23:53
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Ambrose Burnside posted:machining: the final frontier I prefer the traditional bonesmithing  Seriously though, holy poo poo.
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Jan 5, 2017 23:57
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I can't tell why they THREAD THE BONE in two steps. The first tap has a smooth section, maybe it guarantees the thread starts straight and even for the second tap to finish? also lol @ using what's basically those expanding bolts you buy to hang shelves in drywall to lock everything in place, i dunno why i expected something fancier
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Jan 6, 2017 00:08
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Ambrose Burnside posted:machining: the final frontier wife had this done, works way better than a bridge
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Jan 6, 2017 00:21
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Ambrose Burnside posted:I can't tell why they THREAD THE BONE in two steps. The first tap has a smooth section, maybe it guarantees the thread starts straight and even for the second tap to finish? Certain types of threads, like ACME, need a rougher tap to go through first. But roughers look nothing like that tool they use in the gif. They are chamfered at the end, and the threads gradually become more prominent down the length of the flute.  So either they're only making a general approximation of what the actual tools look like, or that rougher is something they engineered specifically for that application. I've never seen anything like it, and it looks like it's not something anyone would use for anything, so my vote is for the former.
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Jan 6, 2017 00:33
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it follows that modern machining gets better results than old-school wirework, yes e:^^^^^^^^^^^^ yeah that makes sense. i wonder if "living bone" has its own special thread standards or the just pulled something for soft materials off the shelf that does the job well enough Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 00:37 on Jan 6, 2017 |
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Jan 6, 2017 00:34
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Anyone have a feed rate chart for bone tissue?
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Jan 6, 2017 00:54
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Slung Blade posted:Anyone have a feed rate chart for bone tissue? evidently you need coolant. 
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Jan 6, 2017 01:17
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If you're not careful going into the bone, the body may provide its own coolant. And gently caress, I can't imagine what that expanding bolt feels like, opening up inside your lip.
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Jan 6, 2017 01:48
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That is really loving cool. It looks like that first tap has a turned end to maybe line it up with the existing hole, so yea like a starting tap I guess.
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Jan 6, 2017 02:20
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Brings new meaning to the term face mill. (I'll see myself out)
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Jan 6, 2017 04:09
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who's ready to pucker even more? The standard thread form for this is M2x0.4 PLEASE DON'T EDM A TAP OUT OF MY SKULL.
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Jan 6, 2017 04:27
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shame on an IGA posted:who's ready to pucker even more? The standard thread form for this is M2x0.4 I'd bet this is a lot of the reason for that cylindrical guide, that's going to be more reliable for starting the tap than a tapered start. Of course, I'd still prefer it if they find figure out how to form tap bone, cut taps suck.
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Jan 6, 2017 06:30
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Rotten Cookies posted:Money will make people do some weird stuff. And build things for weird stuff! The frame itself seems pretty easy. Gussets are easy enough to draw up and cut on the plasma table. Stainless steel chain, shackles, 3/4T hoist, should be good. Then, uh.... about the actual swing and cuffs. I ain't got no clue. But it looks like some people want me to make cuck furniture for them. 2"x2"x1/8" should be plenty strong for this application. Possibly overkill. Is the idea that you weld a steel box that they move themselves? That's a pretty massive piece.
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Jan 6, 2017 06:49
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