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EightBit posted:The shift light is programmed to save fuel, not keep you from lugging the engine. Cruising at 1400RPM is probably not that great for your engine. It can probably handle a near-zero-load cruise just fine at that RPM, but fuckall for anything else. You'd absolutely need to downshift to do any acceleration at all. GnarlyCharlie4u posted:A buddy of mine just managed to get "some oil" in his power steering fluid reservoir on a 2006 Honda Civic. Has he already started the car since doing this? If not he can probably just suck and/or drain the old fluid from the reservoir and fill it with the right stuff and be fine. If it's run at all since... probably would want to do that a few times until all the fluid in the system is completely fresh. At least it's still oil.
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Jan 7, 2017 00:18
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IOwnCalculus posted:Of course it would be a one-year Chrysler thing. I know right? 95 down don't have it and 97 up don't either. BTW, this along with a few other design decisions makes 96 XJ fuel sending unit assemblies unobtainium in the rustbelt. I wouldn't worry much about "a little" oil in the power steering fluid - power steering fluid is mineral oil base, just with different additives, right? If it was in the brake/clutch systems, being glycol based, I would worry a lot.
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Jan 7, 2017 00:20
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Would cheeping out on rock auto engine mounts be noticeable or a bad idea for a mk5 gti? They're literally 25% of the process of OEM or some Black Forest performance bits. Is this one area where cheeping out leads to bad times?
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Jan 7, 2017 00:35
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No experience with that particular car but I've found that you usually get what you pay for with parts like engine mounts that involve a lot of rubber. I'd stick with OEM unless you're OK with the risk that you might be replacing the cheap ones again in 6 months.
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Jan 7, 2017 01:24
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PabloBOOM posted:Would cheeping out on rock auto engine mounts be noticeable or a bad idea for a mk5 gti? They're literally 25% of the process of OEM or some Black Forest performance bits. Is this one area where cheeping out leads to bad times? whatever you do, do NOT buy "anchor" brand bushings. Absolute loving garbage. I've bought them two or three times either due to not looking or because I assumed I just got a bad set, and only once used them instead of throwing them in the trash, because it was all I had on hand, the stock one was broken in half, and my engine was dangling from a crane in the shop at work 4 hours before the doors opened for business. DEA is usually pretty alright.
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Jan 7, 2017 01:54
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kastein posted:whatever you do, do NOT buy "anchor" brand bushings. Absolute loving garbage. I've bought them two or three times either due to not looking or because I assumed I just got a bad set, and only once used them instead of throwing them in the trash, because it was all I had on hand, the stock one was broken in half, and my engine was dangling from a crane in the shop at work 4 hours before the doors opened for business. Huh, guess that might explain the price. Any experience with beck/arnley? Seem to be more middleground... But should probably at least go OEM.
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Jan 7, 2017 02:06
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:A buddy of mine just managed to get "some oil" in his power steering fluid reservoir on a 2006 Honda Civic. Im not 100% sure, but I think all 8th gen civics (2006-2011) are EPS. So the real question is, where did this oil actually end up?
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Jan 7, 2017 06:53
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'04 mazda 6 3.0 w/ 5 speed auto. Changing my starter means removing the battery and tray, undoing the bracket that the shift linkage runs through for a bit of wiggle room and also undoing a bracket with 3 plugs that control ~things~ in the transmission to get to a bolt. Battery was out of the vehicle for around 48 hours while I hosed around being a stubborn jackass about how to do it. Got it back together today and went for a test drive only to find out it shifts harder than hell. Like the 1-2 shift was chirping the front tires if I was leaning on it. Driving it around for 5-10 minutes in my neighborhood and to and from work (~10 minutes each way including stops), I've noticed its smoothed out a bit, but still has a ways to go to get back where it was. If I put it in manumatic mode, I can get the shifts much better, get it to shift through each gear and 2-3 will be perfect feeling when shifting around 3k. I'm fairly certain I got the plugs back in the correct positions since they wouldn't reach in any other configuration and the only 2 similarly colored ones are different sizes. I also checked that the connections were tight and made sure to reconnect that ground that was on the bracket holding the 3 plugs. Is it just a ridiculously violent relearn procedure, or did I gently caress something up? Is there a vehicle specific relearn procedure I need to try or just drive it? Literally the only time I felt a vehicle shift like this is when the trans in my truck grenaded taking out one gear and damaging the other 3. Edit: no codes, according to a mechanic/coworker I know, the plugs aren't possible to mix up. So I'm down to its relearning or its a broken/pinched wire. Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 20:29 on Jan 7, 2017 |
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Jan 7, 2017 07:09
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Is it ok to use Dry graphite lube on suspension bushings? Specifically this stuff,http://www.jigaloo.ca/lubricant/3-graphite-extreme.html Mostly because thats what home depot has in stock right now. Canadian Tire is out of anything that might be similar. Car is a 2009 Corolla with 156,000 Km and a bunch of squeaky bushings in the front end.
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Jan 7, 2017 19:22
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Wife got a CEL on her 2009 Outback 3.0 Thursday and Friday. By the time she told me about it today it was gone. I pulled the codes and it looks like one bank misfired. Should I worry about it or wait until it comes back? Car only has 50k so I'd be surprised if it was a coil pack or something.
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Jan 7, 2017 20:35
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I had it on my 97 outback during a cold start once, but never came back.
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Jan 7, 2017 20:43
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slickmcburney posted:Is it ok to use Dry graphite lube on suspension bushings? My ranger just used lithium grease and Veloster white line had a clear grease
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Jan 7, 2017 20:48
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IOwnCalculus posted:It can probably handle a near-zero-load cruise just fine at that RPM, but fuckall for anything else. You'd absolutely need to downshift to do any acceleration at all. Yeah he had already driven it a bunch of places. I told him, "well it's too late now. just keep driving it until you have a chance to bring it over and have me flush the whole system." PaintVagrant posted:Im not 100% sure, but I think all 8th gen civics (2006-2011) are EPS. So the real question is, where did this oil actually end up? I don't know. Google tells me that there's a PS fluid reservoir near the front on the 2006 so I'd assume it's there. I don't think he would have been able to figure out that it's a power steering fluid reservoir if it weren't labeled as such.
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Jan 7, 2017 23:24
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I have a 2014 Honda Civic (lease). I bought it when I lived in a warm place. Now I live in a cold place. A couple days ago, the overnight temperature dropped to -32F. Past 3 days, we haven't breached 0F. Questions: Is this type of cold damaging to this vehicle? Is there anything I can do to help the car function better in this environment? Also, I know nothing about vehicles, so treat me like a vehicular moron.
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Jan 7, 2017 23:56
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sparkmaster posted:I have a 2014 Honda Civic (lease). I bought it when I lived in a warm place. Now I live in a cold place. A couple days ago, the overnight temperature dropped to -32F. Past 3 days, we haven't breached 0F. What's your budget? If deep double-digit below zero temperatures are common where you are now you may want to invest in having a block heater installed. Most of the wear put on an engine during sub-zero starts comes from the oil being cold and highly viscous in the pan, and not circulating well until the engine warms up. A block heater warms the coolant loop and keeps everything warmer than ambient temperature. They also make battery heaters - deep cold is bad for lead acid cells and installing one will make cold starts easier in addition to extending the life of your battery. In addition unless your car calls for an incredibly low weight oil (like 5w-20 or 0w-20) you could consider having a lighter weight oil changed in during the winter to alleviate how viscous it gets in very low temperatures. At the very least start the car and let it idle until the temperature needle moves off the "cold" side of the gauge.
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Jan 8, 2017 00:07
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A Civic that new already requires 0w20 year round. Best thing to do, oil wise, is to run full synthetic oil - but I'm fairly sure 0w20 is only available in synthetic anyway (might be a couple of semi synthetics by now?). Block heater would be a wise investment like you said, a battery blanket will help it crank a bit better too. I've always been more of a "start it, let it idle a couple of minutes, and drive gently for the first few miles" guy in the winter. Or at least a "start it and let it idle while I scrape all the windows" guy. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:01 on Jan 8, 2017 |
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Jan 8, 2017 02:58
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OK - Stupid question time: I have 30 year old shocks on my 71 mustang and I am lost on what to put on. I don't really want to drop 700 plus on Koni. I just need something that is decent. I see about 50/50 reviews on KYB. I could always go with monroe, but no experience there either. Any thoughts? I don't do any HARD driving, but it does get driven. Car is 99 percent stock still, but I dont care about concours perfect as long as I don't have to cut anything.
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Jan 8, 2017 03:06
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Even monroes will be better than what you have.
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Jan 8, 2017 03:11
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morethanjake32 posted:OK - Stupid question time: I find no difference in length of life from cheap shocks and expensive. KYB is fine.
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Jan 8, 2017 03:52
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This is less of a stupid question and more of a stupid answer or a PSA: remember to put your car in park when you go to change the battery otherwise you will have a pretty hard time figuring out why your car will not turn over! No idea why I left it in gear but it took me a solid 2 hours to notice
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Jan 8, 2017 04:03
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morethanjake32 posted:OK - Stupid question time: All of this is my own opinion, but I think KYB is your best bet. They're the largest OEM supplier for a reason, and they're reasonably priced. Everything I've heard about Monroe suggests they don't last long. I don't see any reason to spend the money on Konis unless you've done other suspension work to warrant it, and even then KYB offers plenty of comparable products. Since you mentioned Monroe, I'm assuming you're running stock ride height.
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Jan 8, 2017 09:34
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rscott posted:This is less of a stupid question and more of a stupid answer or a PSA: remember to put your car in park when you go to change the battery otherwise you will have a pretty hard time figuring out why your car will not turn over! No idea why I left it in gear but it took me a solid 2 hours to notice I still do this sometimes, just because I drive autos and manuals regularly and am in the habit of leaving the manuals in gear when parked.
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Jan 8, 2017 18:21
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Seriously considering a 2008 Altima 2.5 S w/158k miles for $3600. Any red flags I should look out for?
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Jan 8, 2017 22:37
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Josh Lyman posted:Seriously considering a 2008 Altima 2.5 S w/158k miles for $3600. Any red flags I should look out for? Coolant smells like oil
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Jan 8, 2017 22:41
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Josh Lyman posted:Seriously considering a 2008 Altima 2.5 S w/158k miles for $3600. Any red flags I should look out for? If it looks like oil is cooked in under the oil cap. The 2.5 is an oil eater if oil changes weren't kept up.
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Jan 8, 2017 22:52
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Edit
Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 23:07 on Jan 8, 2017 |
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Jan 8, 2017 23:00
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Anyone ever use Forscan before? Its basically an ELM327 tool/reader like Torque, with one of the added benefits being able to totally reprogram new PATS keys for Ford, Mazda, Lincoln and Mercury. I only have one key for each of my cars and don't feel like shelling out the $150 to get dealer made copies.
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Jan 8, 2017 23:16
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Josh Lyman posted:Seriously considering a 2008 Altima 2.5 S w/158k miles for $3600. Any red flags I should look out for? Another zero on that price.
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Jan 8, 2017 23:20
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Godholio posted:Another zero on that price. I'll probably just get this 2009 Prius (http://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/cto/5942240680.html) since people keep insisting they're my safest bet.
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Jan 8, 2017 23:46
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Altimas are terrible car stuff. And the drivers are terrible. Worse than most Prius drivers on average.
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Jan 8, 2017 23:46
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Cage posted:Anyone ever use Forscan before? Why not just go to ace? For your Ford's it's 60$ a key. And as long as it's done by a greybeard wizard you'll be ok.
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Jan 8, 2017 23:50
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Josh Lyman posted:I'm not entirely sure what this means but I assume you mean someone scamming me on the price. One of the greatest AI threads was about a guy paying an insane amount of money for an Altima. I wish I had it bookmarked.
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Jan 9, 2017 00:44
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Josh Lyman posted:I'm not entirely sure what this means but I assume you mean someone scamming me on the price. Get the prius, my sister has the same year Altima and it's a giant piece of worthless poo poo. gently caress Nissans.
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Jan 9, 2017 01:18
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Godholio posted:One of the greatest AI threads was about a guy paying an insane amount of money for an Altima. I wish I had it bookmarked. Here you go, I was just looking at it the other day. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2873673 $16k down payment on a $40k lease he could have paid for in cash.
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Jan 9, 2017 01:22
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Josh Lyman posted:I'm not entirely sure what this means but I assume you mean someone scamming me on the price. How many children do you think you'll be able to fit in there?
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Jan 9, 2017 01:45
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clam ache posted:Why not just go to ace? For your Ford's it's 60$ a key. And as long as it's done by a greybeard wizard you'll be ok. Also like I said I have two cars with one key. So that $120. TBH I'd be fine with just making a dumb key and then taping my PATS key close enough that it registers, if thats possible. Cage fucked around with this message at 01:50 on Jan 9, 2017 |
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Jan 9, 2017 01:48
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:All of this is my own opinion, but I think KYB is your best bet. They're the largest OEM supplier for a reason, and they're reasonably priced. Everything I've heard about Monroe suggests they don't last long. KYB is it then. Thanks guys, just wanted a heat check.
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Jan 9, 2017 02:08
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puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 03:54 on Jan 4, 2020 |
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Jan 9, 2017 02:09
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Last March the wife and I bought our first new car, a 2016 WRX. The dealer submitted the paperwork for our state to get plates. The dealer is MAD, we are in VA. Today I got my county form for the state's annual car tax (we pay the county for the fee as well as the state's) and I have a 10% late fee for not telling the county I bought a car last year. Should I be hounding the dealer for not notifying the county of my purchase? I don't want to pay $57 if I don't have to. The plates and paperwork from the state were taken care of by the dealer, no idea why not the county paperwork also. All the previous cars I have bought have been private sales, and I assume this notification occured when I did the paperwork for plates at the DMV. Did I gently caress up or the dealer?
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Jan 9, 2017 02:12
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FCKGW posted:Here you go, I was just looking at it the other day. I wish the scans had been rehosted. Man that was fun.
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Jan 9, 2017 02:17
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