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Weighed it and did an alignment to make sure the new rear trailing arms aren't bent.  Still needs a few more things, race weight will likely be 150-200lbs more with fuel load.
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Jan 8, 2017 16:57
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Crustashio posted:Weighed it and did an alignment to make sure the new rear trailing arms aren't bent. Now I know why my EG sags to the left-front. What wheels are those? I crave them.
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Jan 8, 2017 17:02
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rdb posted:I changed a bunch of fluids in my 2012 Tundra. The trans fluid thing COULD be because you have a transmission that uses toyota WS fluid- I know that the 5 speed auto trans in the 100 series uses WS fluid and gets cranky as gently caress and eats itself with ANYTHING else. In other news: The offroad guys will know what these are for. 
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Jan 9, 2017 14:02
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RillAkBea posted:You probably should be. I had a little accident with some suicide sticks when I was testing them out. Somehow nothing hit anything expensive but the spring put a pretty interesting dent in the floor. Copy this dude... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rnz65M4OYys
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Jan 9, 2017 14:33
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Olympic Mathlete posted:Copy this dude... That's pretty brilliant and simple. Makes for changing struts stupid fast.
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Jan 9, 2017 14:50
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I just hope that he has some way to keep the drat things from slipping out at the bottom.
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Jan 9, 2017 15:51
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The first time I saw that I thought he did. Wouldn't take too much engineering to make it safer though.
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Jan 9, 2017 15:56
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Ferremit posted:The trans fluid thing COULD be because you have a transmission that uses toyota WS fluid- I know that the 5 speed auto trans in the 100 series uses WS fluid and gets cranky as gently caress and eats itself with ANYTHING else. It seemed to have straightened itself out. I have about 2k miles on it after a trip this weekend. After seeing what the WS fluid looked like at 68k I won't be putting that back in. The trans survived the last 40k with valvoline maxlife synthetic and now the amsoil. I think the key is low viscosity with a WS replacement.
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Jan 9, 2017 16:33
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Hawk DTC60s and speed bleeders for the E46
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Jan 10, 2017 01:33
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Now I know why my EG sags to the left-front. All the pre-2000 hondas have lovely L/R distribution, especially when there is a driver in the car. No idea what wheels those are, they were just something my friend has kicking around.
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Jan 10, 2017 03:01
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My own car: long overdue oil change. Change oil message has been showing for over 2000 miles.  Went with cheap Supertech full synthetic oil and a supertech oil filter. Filter looks EXACTLY like the AC Delco filters I've been buying for more than twice the price; google reveals they're both made by Champion. Don't plan to run this oil more than about 6k (I normally get 9k or so before the change oil message comes on), but it's probably a bit better than the ~12k Mobil 1 that was in there. The Supertech filter also came with a new o-ring for the oil filter cap (cartridge filter), while the AC Delco filters don't. I have a decent oil leak from that general area, I'm pretty sure the cap was leaking. I'll know in a couple of days.My mother's car (2003 Toyota Avalon) failed the state safety/emissions inspection for "grinding brakes". But the shop owner was kind enough to offer to replace all the brakes for $300 per axle (so $600 total). She balked. But he did drive her through the parking lot, and jammed on the brakes, which did cause a grinding sound. I thought it was weird, since I did pads on all 4 wheels and rotors on the front about 15k ago, but she does wait until the last second to brake, and 99% of her driving is city driving (she hates highways). And the car has enough miles that a sticking caliper is a real possibility. So I ordered new front pads and front rotors from Advance Auto ($40 off an order of $100+ coupon, hell yeah) and had her pick them up, and I headed over to her place when I got off work, figuring I had enough time to hit up parts stores for anything else I may need. Got there... made the mistake of starting to pull stuff apart before actually driving the car.  Stop the loving train. There's plenty of meat left here. What the hell is going on? Okay... let's look at the rear brakes, maybe it's back there. Just reaching through the spokes in the wheel and feeling the pad tells me the pads back there are practically new. She then told me the grinding sound was from the front left. Okay, I pull that apart. The pads were a bit more worn (even on both inner and outer though), but nowhere near metal to metal, so I'm guessing the caliper may be starting to stick a little. There was a little bit more brake dust on that wheel too. The rotor looked fine, and was smooth. Said gently caress it, threw the new pads on (new ones are ceramic, old ones were semi metallic, and the dust from the old ones was driving her crazy... plus well, they were a little over half worn anyway). Drove a couple of miles to bed them in, and rediscovered how much better daily driver oriented ceramic pads can be (seat belts in her car work very well). Got her in the car, braked several times, neither of us heard anything. So I got it up to about 25 in a parking lot and slammed on the brakes, trying to trigger the ABS. The ABS pump goes nuts, and she says THERE IT IS, THAT'S THE GRINDING NOISE! AND IT'S COMING FROM THE LEFT SIDE LIKE HE SAID! The ABS pump sits on the drivers side under the hood, right by the LF wheel. The car doesn't pull at all unless you floor it from a stop (torque steer, maybe? it's a 1MZ-FE in a 3400 pound car, so not exactly a fast car). Cruising, braking, slamming on the brakes, even hitting them hard enough to piss off the ABS... it's all done in a perfectly straight line. All 4 tires have even wear too. gently caress shady shops, I'm really glad she ran this past me (my stepdad "trusts the owner" and approves anything he says is needed; their Yelp rating is 1.5 stars). She's returning the rotors tomorrow and going to get her inspection done at a place that does nothing but inspections (oddly enough, named Inspections Only, what an odd name for a place like that). She's not that knowledgeable about cars, but she always runs anything past me before authorizing any work. I'm really glad she called me on this one. I think combined, everything on both cars was less than an hour and a half, including bedding in the new pads and taking her for a drive to try to figure out the noise. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:40 on Jan 11, 2017 |
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Jan 11, 2017 10:37
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rdb posted:It seemed to have straightened itself out. I have about 2k miles on it after a trip this weekend. Because of its detergent properties, what the WS looks like isn't really an indicator of how it's doing, though. That's why they tell people under normal operation it doesn't need replaced ever. If there's shrapnel in it and/or it smells weird, that's different obviously. I work on used cars at a Toyota store, haven't experienced or heard anything about Tundra transmissions not liking ATF WS, even from dudes who run brodozer wheels/tires and pull their boat to the lake all summer or whatever. The 5.7s sure like to piss oil out of their camshaft housings, though. And I'm somewhat surprised your water pump has lasted 100k.
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Jan 11, 2017 14:46
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Me too about the water pump. I looked closely under and around it when I did the coolant and it looked great. As far as the trans not liking WS, I'm sure it did/does. When I first bought it the trans wasn't slipping or anything but it was shifting a bit harder than I would like. It also seemed to unlock the torque converter and downshift more often on hills. Changing the fluid definitely helped with that. I am just not convinced that WS holds up as well as something full synthetic. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=fLVZSoKbyZ0 The fluid in that video looks almost exactly like what came out of mine. The only thing that pisses me off now is the slight differential whine at about 50ish. rdb fucked around with this message at 15:36 on Jan 11, 2017 |
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Jan 11, 2017 15:33
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And maybe I should check the cam towers closer. I did not know fixing that leak required removing the front cover, timing chain and cams. Seems like a lovely design. It's still under warranty until 125k.
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Jan 11, 2017 16:59
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Tightened up the cap on my OEM oil feed flare fitting (replaced the oil feed with an aftermarket job). As a side note, how long until my cabin stops smelling like burnt oil? 
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Jan 11, 2017 19:10
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rdb posted:And maybe I should check the cam towers closer. I did not know fixing that leak required removing the front cover, timing chain and cams. Seems like a lovely design. It's still under warranty until 125k. Happened to be raising a 13 Tundra with 57k miles on my lift when I saw you replied so I snapped a lovely pic.  I had already douched off the side a bit before raising the truck, but you'll see this one is particularly bad - there's oil all over exhaust manifold heat shield. The tab I circled in red is usually where the first droplets of oil start to form. You can see it through wheel opening with truck on ground most of time. If you made it 100k and they're dry, they will probably stay that way. The ones that leak have been leaking since they left the factory, and flat rate dealership lube techs can't be bothered to look over cars while they're under warranty. Hope this helps.
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Jan 11, 2017 20:13
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eighty-four merc posted:These wagons had self-leveling hydraulic rear suspension and mine is pretty tired. I think if I resealed the valve it'd go a long way but my plan is to just replace the hydraulic stuff with some bilsteins because everything associated with self leveling costs stupid money, including engines themselves because the pump is driven off engine and mounted to front of head. Bah, don't go and convert it. It's such a nice system when it's all working properly, the parts for it are surprisingly cheap. The most expensive (common failure) bits are the accumulators, which you can find for around $75 each online if you wait. You can rebuild the level valve for $20 in o-rings. The rear shocks are like $300 each, but almost never fail, they're just hydraulic pistons. The only thing that really kills them is failed accumulators. All the hydraulic lines use quick rebuildable fittings, so you just need to source hose for them and you're set. I don't (but probably should) run the ridiculously expensive febi suspension fluid, I think I have iso 46 hydraulic fluid in it right now. Now that I have all the leaks fixed I should "invest" in the proper fluid. I don't drive it in the winter/snow, though (gently caress rust), so I don't have the cold weather issues with it so much. I have an 84 wagon I fought with and learned on, and after coming out the other side, it's a fantastic system. The first time you put a lot of poo poo in the trunk and fire up the engine, you'll be addicted to the stupid thing. If you have any questions, give me an ask. EDIT: I also swore and yelled a lot at vacuum leaks, transmission problems, power door locks, and auto climate control. All that stuff working properly in fantastic. Fix it, it's worth it. chrisgt fucked around with this message at 00:47 on Jan 12, 2017 |
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Jan 12, 2017 00:44
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chrisgt posted:Bah, don't go and convert it. It's such a nice system when it's all working properly, the parts for it are surprisingly cheap. The most expensive (common failure) bits are the accumulators, which you can find for around $75 each online if you wait. You can rebuild the level valve for $20 in o-rings. Yeah man, these cars are well sorted from factory. They're Mercedes. But I am doing rear springs regardless. Would rather pony up the extra $100 or whatever for HD Bilsteins and be done with it. Much better bang for the buck in terms of quality of life improvement. For cost of one rear SLS shock, I could rebuild a junkyard locker out of a 190e. Or be a quarter of the way to having a Dieselmeken 7.5mm element IP. Or halfway to new 3.90 gears. Or have an entire manual swap from junkyard. Maintaining SLS is just not very attractive to me. e: would be pretty cool to try and run a hydraulic winch off SLS pump though eighty-four merc fucked around with this message at 02:16 on Jan 12, 2017 |
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Jan 12, 2017 02:10
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The pump doesn't produce very much flow, you aren't going to run anything too useful off it. The SLS pistons rarely fail, pretty much the only thing that harms them is running for a long time on bad accumulators beating the poo poo out of the seals. If you rebuild the level valve you might be surprised how it turns out. The trunk on these cars hangs so far over the back axle it doesn't take much weight to really sag the rear end.
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Jan 12, 2017 04:13
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We'll see. I was really planning on deleting it, but I'm seeing I can get the accumulators locally for ~150 and the o ring kit and try that out with some 116 or early 126 springs.
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Jan 12, 2017 04:53
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eighty-four merc posted:Happened to be raising a 13 Tundra with 57k miles on my lift when I saw you replied so I snapped a lovely pic. Results: drivers side, dry. Passenger side, leaking.  Can't say I'm surprised given 108k of dealership 0-20w oil changes.
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Jan 12, 2017 22:09
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The TDI seemed to be getting louder to me over the past month or so but I wasn't sure until today when it seemed way louder and I saw a cloud of smoke come out from under the car when I started it. I think I found the problem... Can't say I'm surprised it was a Wisconsin car until 2010 and 180k miles, 105k later and this happens. May try to temporary fix it for a while or just run it to a exhaust shop and have them fix it. I can drive it as is but I'm sure the cat hanging like that isn't good for things.
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Jan 12, 2017 23:56
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MalleusDei posted:Tightened up the cap on my OEM oil feed flare fitting (replaced the oil feed with an aftermarket job). As a side note, how long until my cabin stops smelling like burnt oil? My sbubaru constantly drips on its manifold heat shield, I've found scrubbing bubbles of some variety followed by a quick spritz with the hose usually lasts a good while.
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Jan 13, 2017 00:42
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Bedded in some pads at night. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OysFVms1KD0
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Jan 13, 2017 04:39
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rdb posted:Results: drivers side, dry. Passenger side, leaking. Dealership lube techs are the worst. Whatever bean counting pencil neck thought it was a good idea to make entry level positions flat rate is the worst. Is there any on heat shield? If it's still under the cerified used warranty just go in saying it smells like burning oil when you drive, please advise. And don't let them send it to lube rack.
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Jan 13, 2017 05:03
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Had a little 20th birthday party for the Prelude. Gave it a full wash and interior detail even though it's the middle of winter here (hence the steelies).  
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Jan 13, 2017 21:46
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I really like the look of Preludes, you hardly see them anymore. I even like the steelies.
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Jan 13, 2017 21:52
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That is one nice prelude. In other news, I changed the spark plugs in my Tundra. Not a hard job except my gorilla hands broke a wire in a connector for a camshaft position sensor. I was rushing because I have to drive to south GA this weekend, and I was trying to get it done while my 14mo old son was napping. Cue the rest of the day blowing lots of money on a new scan tool and frustration trying to figure out what I did. I had been using HPtuners to scan vehicles but the hard drive in my MBP died and I lost the windows partition. And my garage is such a mess I couldn't find my crimpers or butane torch so I had to buy that as well. I did temporarily hack it back together with some superglue and bits of wire, and ordered a new connector off eBay. Of course it's one you can't repin. At least the truck seems to run good with new plugs.
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Jan 14, 2017 14:30
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rdb posted:In other news, I changed the spark plugs in my Tundra. Not a hard job except my gorilla hands broke a wire in a connector for a camshaft position sensor. Have you killed any coils yet? I averaged one every 18 months or so.
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Jan 14, 2017 15:11
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these are going on my sw20 today yeah boi
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Jan 14, 2017 16:36
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angryrobots posted:You must have a vvti tundra? I don't recall the cam sensor or wiring being in the way on my '00. No, all 8 coils are still good. And yeah, the 5.7 is vvti and has cam sensors that aren't really in the way but I must have broke the wire trying to push the harness out of the way to get a coil out.
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Jan 14, 2017 19:21
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Making progress on getting the M3 back on the road after the diff bolt broke. Waiting on a new bolt and a bottoming tap in the mail, then it will just be putting it back together.  
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Jan 14, 2017 21:54
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New wiper blades, oil and filter for the '07 Fit 5MT I bought yesterday to commute in / to make sure my wife has a vehicle to drive regardless of where I am:
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Jan 14, 2017 22:53
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 Did tie rods, drag link, steering stabilizer, front sway bar bushings and upper control arms on the grocery getter at work today, then waited to get it aligned by another guy in the shop while I worked on stuff that actually pays. There's an older guy in the shop who always parks his Tundra in same spot and gets salty when it's not open. He had knee surgery and has been gone a couple months. He comes back Monday so I threw that sign together and put it in front of the spot to gently caress with him since I've been parking there in his absence. I will also continue to park there because I like to plug my block heater in on colder days. The black snow is from my exhaust. Raise hell, praise Dale.
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Jan 15, 2017 02:02
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Had a little 20th birthday party for the Prelude. Gave it a full wash and interior detail even though it's the middle of winter here (hence the steelies). Favorite generation and color Prelude right there. Looks like you've taken good care of it; Honda paint wasn't the greatest back then, even on silver. Friend used to have an 01 SH that he'd let me drive whenever I wanted. Unfortunately his engine died an early death (started burning oil really bad, couldn't smog it and kept fouling plugs), and he wound up giving the car to his dad.  I tried to buy it several times.
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Jan 15, 2017 05:02
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Favorite generation and color Prelude right there. Looks like you've taken good care of it; Honda paint wasn't the greatest back then, even on silver. I bought this from the original owner's daughter almost a year ago when her dad died. He kept it in a garage all its life and didn't really drive it in winter. It just turned 95k miles a couple of weeks ago and is 100% stock. All original as well except for tires, brakes, battery and timing belt stuff. I replaced the original battery in early December. It's also a Type SH, and has none of the typical H22 oil burning issues. In the spring it will get new plugs and wires just as a matter of course. The weird thing about the paint is how not-silver it is in the light. It's got some purples and greens in it as well. It's called Nordic Mist Metallic and it changes every time I look at it. It has small little dings in the front from 20 years of light use but it shows well. I've always been a Honda nerd and I was in high school when this generation Prelude came out. I couldn't afford the $27k to buy one back then and finally got to own an as-close-to-pristine-as-possible one all these decades later. It feels like a two or three year old car to drive.   
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Jan 15, 2017 13:35
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Changed to winter tyres and moved the Watt-link to its higher position. Parked outside while working on the daily 156: new steering rack balljoints on one side and a new front upper wishbone for the other side.
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Jan 15, 2017 14:17
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You make me jealous every time you post that car. How does it handle winter and cold temperatures? Only a few more years then I'll get one...
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Jan 15, 2017 19:45
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It is not very good in freezing conditions because the heated air can only be directed trough two circular outlets on top of and/or below the dashboard. The air vents at the both ends of the dashboard are only for cold air and they are directly connected to the fresh air inlet in front of the windshield. There are these plastic flaps that can close the vents, but they always leak and there is no way to direct heated air to them. So it takes really long time to melt left and right edges of the windshield and the side windows. They also tend freeze again while driving if passengers speak or breath too much.  In my car there is no heat or noise insulation either, which makes it a bit worse.It is possible to make warm and eliminate above the issues, but I haven't got around to it because it requires removal of the dashboard (not that difficult): - Clean the heater core from possible debris - Check that the flaps that direct the air flow close and seal well - Block the direct cold air flow to the nozzles at the ends of the dashboard and install flex-hoses inside the dash that direct warm air from the heater plenum to the nozzles. Windshield wiper motor and washer pump are also on weak side at least in my car and the wipers only operate at one speed. Originally they had three (intermittent, low, high). Starting in cold weather is a not a problem. Limited slip diff and studded tyres help a lot on snow and ice.
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Jan 15, 2017 20:55
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New plug wires on the 99 4Runner. It had started stalling in traffic. Two of the three wires had nasty corrosion on them. New NGK wires were $27 from RockAuto and it's running like a top.
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Jan 16, 2017 02:40
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