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Josh Lyman posted:Seriously considering a 2008 Altima 2.5 S w/158k miles for $3600. Any red flags I should look out for? Any smoke from the exhaust (steam is normal on a cold day), but especially blue smoke. The 2.5 has the catalytic converter mounted directly to the exhaust manifold (a lot of cars do that these days), but it was a poor design that would sometimes break up and get inhaled back into the engine - destroying the rings as a result. They should have had it take care of by 08, but it's something to watch for. Personally, I'd avoid it period. Newer Nissans don't age well at all, and are a serious pain in the rear end to work on. Even my 99 Altima was a complete bitch to do anything on except for spark plugs and (oddly enough) alternator. The 99 aged a hell of a lot better than the later generations (02+), IMO. I see a lot more 2nd gens (98-01) on the road than the 3rd gen (02-06), and don't see that many 4th gens (07-12) compared to most other cars. Cage posted:I only have one key for each of my cars and don't feel like shelling out the $150 to get dealer made copies. Any good locksmith can clone your existing key to a new key. As far as the vehicle is concerned, it's the same key. Cage posted:TBH I'd be fine with just making a dumb key and then taping my PATS key close enough that it registers, if thats possible. And this also works. I had a $5 copy made for my last Honda, with the dire warning from the store that it wouldn't start the car. It worked just fine to start it so long as I held the plastic head of the original key against the plastic around the ignition switch while starting it. The original key had broken after I got that copy made; as long as the plastic remains were on the keychain it would still start. I originally got that copy made to keep in my wallet in case I locked the keys in...
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Jan 9, 2017 09:02
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Sorry for the double post, but... genuine question here. 2006 Saturn Ion with the L61 2.2L Ecotec. Let's assume it's a Chevy Cobalt or Pontiac G5, since, well, it basically is those cars, with a plastic body. Mechanically they're pretty much identical aside from clutch hydraulics. Oil pressure light has me confused. As long as I've owned the car, the oil pressure light comes on for 2 seconds when I first turn on the ignition, but turns off with the other lights that do the key on test (which is all of them except for the high beam and turn signal indicators) - while other lights related to the engine running (alternator, check engine) stay on until the engine is running. And since it has a manual, I've managed to stall it here and there - the oil light never comes on when I've managed to stall it, only the CEL and alternator light. Normal or not? Everything I know about cars screams THIS ISN'T NORMAL at me, but it's the only car I've ever owned that used anything resembling CAN BUS (or in this case, GM LAN?). I've always been good about keeping an eye on the oil level, but it'd be nice to know the idiot light is working the way it's supposed to.
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Jan 9, 2017 10:27
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My 2005 Pontiac g6 just shut off on me on the freeway. I had a battery put in a few weeks ago and haven't had other problems with it. I was able to get it to turn over and filled it with gas just in case. Tried driving again on a backroad, the transmission lost power I think and it shut off on me and now won't turn over, no clicking when I turn the keys. Anything I can check while I wait for the truck?
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Jan 9, 2017 20:12
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GobiasIndustries posted:My 2005 Pontiac g6 just shut off on me on the freeway. I had a battery put in a few weeks ago and haven't had other problems with it. I was able to get it to turn over and filled it with gas just in case. Tried driving again on a backroad, the transmission lost power I think and it shut off on me and now won't turn over, no clicking when I turn the keys. Anything I can check while I wait for the truck? Alternator?
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Jan 9, 2017 20:15
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Sorry for the double post, but... genuine question here. How easy is the oil pressure sensor/sender to access? I'd start by unplugging it and see if the light's behavior changes.
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Jan 9, 2017 20:43
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Michael Scott posted:Alternator? Not a mechanic, but after reading up, it would fit the symptoms. I noticed a vague burning smell on the freeway but I was surrounded by trucks before the rpms started dropping so I didn't think anything of it. The 2nd time the engine started squealing a bit and the car was a bit janky, not really any smells but I was going 20. Also the traction control light went on the first and 2nd times but I don't know if that's a symptom. Sorry for the lack of details, I was literally driving home from a job interview after being unemployed for a few months so I'm a bit shook up by the timing
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Jan 9, 2017 20:46
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I hope you get that job, what industry is it? I was funemployed for a while and that would shake me up, too. A mechanic should be able to diagnose pretty easily once you get it towed in. Hopefully it's just a few hundred dollars. If the estimate is more than that, you're approaching the value of that Saturn.
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Jan 9, 2017 20:52
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Thanks, I actually did! Data analyst, part-time but itd pay the bills until I got something full. Unfortunately it's a 40 minute commute, so...yeah. I was on the phone telling my sister about it when it shut off on the freeway.
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Jan 9, 2017 20:55
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Engine won't crank, prob dead
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Jan 10, 2017 03:21
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Squeezing? Like belt squeal? A seized belt tensioner or thrown belt could cause that noise, and it would no longer be turning your alternator...
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Jan 10, 2017 04:08
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I have no idea, to be honest. They had 3 guys out there working on it, had just put in a new starter, and couldn't get the...driveshaft? to crank. They said it looked like an oil blockage and a malfunctioning..something.. in the electronics system because I didn't have a single warning light on and had driven the car like, less than a thousand miles since my last change. I'm a bit in a daze right now. They said there was nothing at all they could do and didn't charge me for the towing or starter. I'm going to look into getting it towed back to my place tomorrow, I've got a long driveway that I can keep it in to do research on either fixing or selling it.
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Jan 10, 2017 04:51
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How much oil is on the dipstick?
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Jan 10, 2017 05:47
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E: not bone dry, but basically none, like just barely the tip. The oil light wasn't on and the system oil health % thing said 52% when I checked this weekend. I got it changed in early November and don't see any spills in my driveway. E2: When it happened the first time I popped the hood at the gas station to check my battery terminals just in case something had come disconnected. No smoke, no excessive (to my knowledge) heat beyond having been driving for 40 minutes, no weird smells of metal on metal. GobiasIndustries fucked around with this message at 06:29 on Jan 10, 2017 |
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Jan 10, 2017 06:08
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GobiasIndustries posted:E: not bone dry, but basically none, like just barely the tip. The oil light wasn't on and the system oil health % thing said 52% when I checked this weekend. I got it changed in early November and don't see any spills in my driveway. The oil life monitor on a GM is just telling you how long until you need an oil change - it doesn't monitor the oil level. It's on you to check it; it's best to check it anytime you get gas, but even on a brand new car you should be checking it at least once a month. My car uses very little oil between oil changes, and I still check it every time I fill up. What did the little bit of oil look like? Anything like glitter or shiny bits in it? If the starter isn't even clicking, then it sounds like electrical to me. GMs are kinda notorious for the ignition switch wearing to the point that it pisses off the security system, which disables the starter. It's 2 switches in one - there's a second one that the very tip of the key turns, basically telling the engine computer that an actual key is being used to start it (instead of a screwdriver, hotwiring, etc). GM runs only 5 volts through both switches too, so when they get gummed up and dirty over the years, there's just not enough voltage to arc through and make contact. The dash should still light up if it's that second switch, but it won't engage the starter, and it'll either be showing a security message on the display, or a light that looks like a key or padlock will be lit up on the dash (it normally lights up for a couple of seconds when you first turn on the key). If the dash isn't lighting up at all, ignition switch or fuses would be what I'd suspect. Geoj posted:How easy is the oil pressure sensor/sender to access? I'd start by unplugging it and see if the light's behavior changes. Took some googling to figure that out. It's buried between the starter and the bottom of the intake manifold.  I was able to get it unplugged. Light behaves exactly the same. It's a single wire, so I assume the switch grounds when there's no pressure. Sometime during the day (and when it's not so loving windy) I'll see if there's any voltage present on the wire; if there is I'll try grounding it and seeing if the light comes on, with the key on/engine off, key on/engine on, and key on/engine stalled. If it comes on with the engine running, but not after stalling, even when grounded, then I'll chalk it up to GM weirdness. It doesn't look like you can get the sender out without pulling the starter though.  e: there's no fancy stuff like variable valve timing on this engine, so I'm pretty sure it's the only sending unit - the ECU doesn't need to know oil pressure when there's no VVTi/VEETAK/etc. e2: this is how it behaves - it's the red light under the 8k mark on the tach. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:52 on Jan 10, 2017 |
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Jan 10, 2017 08:04
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So as I have been looking for the headlight switch for my 85 200SX, all the ones I've seen for the year have looked like this: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...02006&ppt=C0039 With both headlight and wiper switches on this assembly. The wiper switch on mine works fine, it's the headlight switch that broke. I was wondering if the headlight switch can be replaced by itself, or does it need to be all replaced, with the headlight switch unable to be removed from this assembly? Because I haven't seen just the switch for sale, not on sites that sell them new, anyway. But some salvage places have just the headlight switch.
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Jan 10, 2017 18:32
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Salvage yards are probably just mislabeling it. That switch looks like it's a fairly solid single unit that isn't designed to be torn apart and only have components of it replaced / repaired.
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Jan 10, 2017 18:42
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Thanks, that's what I figured. Just wanted to check. Called my mechanic and he said the same.
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Jan 10, 2017 19:01
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Is it awful to way over torque engine mounts? Crappy HF click wrench was stuck or something so I accidentally hulked out waiting for the click. They're one time use bolts so I could just pick up a new set but meh.
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Jan 11, 2017 16:54
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Hi Automotive People. My wife's car is a VW Passat 2006. 137K mileage. Transmission jumps when downshifting. I last posted here a year or so again when I got fleeced on my car repair. Thankfully, I've found a much better shop since then. Got referred to a transmission shop, so guy at least seemed legit. He said it was very likely the Valve Body Assembly. Gave me a quote of $2200 before tax for a repair. My car shop is basically saying it might be new car time. No codes being generated by the car saying there is anything wrong yet. Its my wife and I, no planned family expansions. We just need a reliable car. We try to buy new, then keep it as long as it makes sense to. Thoughts on repair vs replace? If we are replacing, i'm betting we'll lean towards Honda this time (the Passat we got on a good deal used from a coworker years ago).
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Jan 11, 2017 17:04
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Ultimately it comes down to whether you think this repair will give you a car that will last long enough to justify the expense. If it's otherwise reliable, it's probably worth keeping. If it's nickel-and-diming you, maybe not. Too many people make this decision based on how much the book says the car is worth vs the cost of the repair...but what really matters is the cost to replace the vehicle vs the cost of repair(s). If I've got a car worth $1500 and there's a $2k repair that'll likely keep it on the road for another 3+ years (and I don't hate the car) I'll probably do the repair. If I hate the loving thing, or if this is one of several other issues, I'll unload it on craigslist. If his diagnosis is accurate, which it probably is, the quote seems reasonable.
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Jan 11, 2017 17:11
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Godholio posted:Ultimately it comes down to whether you think this repair will give you a car that will last long enough to justify the expense. If it's otherwise reliable, it's probably worth keeping. If it's nickel-and-diming you, maybe not. Too many people make this decision based on how much the book says the car is worth vs the cost of the repair...but what really matters is the cost to replace the vehicle vs the cost of repair(s). If I've got a car worth $1500 and there's a $2k repair that'll likely keep it on the road for another 3+ years (and I don't hate the car) I'll probably do the repair. If I hate the loving thing, or if this is one of several other issues, I'll unload it on craigslist. This is great advice. My wife likes the car. So it isn't a "finally an excuse to replace it." Its more, "at what point do we stop paying for repairs and pull the trigger for a new car?" Certainly, that's probably $18-20k vs a $2200 repair, so the main thing issues can come up? My log of stuff we replaced recently: -we replaced the starter in 2014 -timing belt and water pump in 2013 -we replaced control arm bushings in 2013 So not awful. The car has not had constant problems. Its more "what other big repairs are there down the road?"
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Jan 11, 2017 17:24
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Totally different car and problem but I had a similar dilemma. Bought a 99 explorer a few years ago for $1400, found out driving it home that the transmission was hosed and got a quote for $1400 for a transmission rebuild. Truck had 147k at the time so I was worried about the same thing. Engine blowing up, exhaust rusting away etc. I really wanted to just junk it but I ended up going with the rebuild because the engine did seem pretty solid still. Over two years later and Im still on the road at 159k miles with an $80 repair on the exhaust.
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Jan 11, 2017 17:34
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Cage posted:Totally different car and problem but I had a similar dilemma. Bought a 99 explorer a few years ago for $1400, found out driving it home that the transmission was hosed and got a quote for $1400 for a transmission rebuild. Truck had 147k at the time so I was worried about the same thing. Engine blowing up, exhaust rusting away etc. I really wanted to just junk it but I ended up going with the rebuild because the engine did seem pretty solid still. Over two years later and Im still on the road at 159k miles with an $80 repair on the exhaust. Yeah, definitely similar. Appreciate the input. I have her Odometer logged at 119K mileage in Mar 2015. so that's 18K miles in just under 2 years. My car is a 2012 Honda Civic, as of Dec 2016 it has 80K miles on it. So basically, we do drive my car more, its the car we take on road trips, etc. So she definitely is not crushing mileage on a yearly basis. She is averaging 10K miles a year, I am averaging 20K. Her current job (just started last year, should't be changing) is 10 miles away, 23 min drive all non highway. Both cars are paid off. I will say, I like having them paid off. But I told her ultimately, she gets a bigger sway in the decision since its the car she drives. So far, her decision is to repair the car as long as it "isn't a money pit." Edit: money wise we can swing either, but we weren't planning on a new car yet, we were planning on putting money aside over the next year or so for it. Duckman2008 fucked around with this message at 17:48 on Jan 11, 2017 |
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Jan 11, 2017 17:45
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Anyone know if the current and last-gen Forester turbodiesel manuals had a rear lsd? Most of the info out there seems to be for US models. With the 90s cars iirc the non-turbo Foresters or at least some of them got the lsd, whereas nonturbo Imprezas (other than maybe the US model 2.5rs?) got two open diffs and the viscous center diff. But I have no idea if Subaru thought the turbodiseasel was worth an lsd.
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Jan 11, 2017 18:04
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Duckman2008 posted:This is great advice. Honestly, all of that that can all be considered maintenance, except for the starter (sorta). Starters are iffy on when they let go, but they do wear out - they're a brush-style motor - sometimes in 50k, sometimes in 100k, sometimes in 1M miles - they don't last forever, and they do need to be rebuilt/replaced eventually, no matter what they're on. The timing belt/water pump is something that's needed roughly every 100k on every modern car using a timing belt (older cars, and some very recent Kias and GMs, went 60k - and in the case of the Chevy Aveo, the timing belt often broke before 60k). The fact that you replaced bushings puts you miles ahead of 95% of owners. A modern EFI starter sees very little stress compared to one from something from a carb - you very rarely see flooding on an EFI engine, for example, while it was pretty easy to flood a carb vehicle. I'm not a VW fan, but it sounds like the car has been well maintained (I mean, you guys replaced bushings, 99% of owners have no idea what a bushing even is!). Personally, I'd keep it until it needs repairs that exceed the value of the car. And even then I'd be on the fence - you know a significant amount of the service history on the car, whereas buying another car worth roughly the same amount is a huge unknown unless it comes with service records. I have full service records for the past 100k on my own car, and would provide them to the next owner if I sold it private party, but my car is worth slightly more than a shopping cart. You also need to compare how much you're spending on repairs vs a car payment. Most of the time, repairs will be cheaper per year vs a payment, until the car really gets up there in years/miles, or has a massive catastrophic failure that you can't tackle on your own (such as the engine telling you to gently caress off). Set aside whatever you would be spending on a car payment into a savings account, use that account only for car maintenance and repairs. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 18:28 on Jan 11, 2017 |
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Jan 11, 2017 18:19
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Honestly, all of that that can all be considered maintenance, except for the starter (maybe). Starters are iffy on when they let go, but they do wear out - sometimes in 50k, sometimes in 100k, sometimes in 1M miles - they don't last forever, and they do need to be rebuilt/replaced eventually, no matter what they're on. The timing belt/water pump is something that's needed roughly every 100k on every modern car using a timing belt (older cars, and some very recent Kias and GMs, went 60k - and in the case of the Chevy Aveo, the timing belt often broke before 60k). The fact that you replaced bushings puts you miles ahead of 95% of owners. Well, I have no idea what a bushing is, I posted it 50% assuming someone would be like "that's not a car part, i think you mean this." We used to take her car by an actual VW dealership, so it was a legit VW corp repair. To be clear, with my not great abilities with cars, any new car would be new off the lot. I def agree that buying a lower mileage used car, for me, wouldn't be the best idea. Honestly, I'm giving it another few hours, but we are pretty close to calling the guy back and ordering the part. The car trade in $1300 on KBB, so it is a repair worth more than the car. But if it keeps the car rolling even 2 more years, that gives us time to sock more money aside to put towards new car. Only caveat is the car has to work well.
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Jan 11, 2017 18:27
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I was planning on going up to the mountains this weekend, and as I'm still relatively new to California, I had no idea "California Air Resources Board has made it illegal to sell winter, non-freezing windshield washer solution." I don't want my lines to freeze, what is the best way of keeping my fluid from freezing without spending $$$ importing the good stuff? Does rubbing alcohol really work?
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Jan 11, 2017 18:33
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Don't look at trade. Look at private party value. Trade is always hilariously low, retail is always high. Private party gives you a reasonable idea, but depending where you are, it may wind up being worth a lot more (or less) than private party value. It just depends how desirable your car is, and how valuable people consider the options on it. Where I'm at, if the air conditioning doesn't work, that's basically knocking $1-2k off of the value. A bushing is a very common part on cars - it's basically a bit of rubber that keeps a moving metal piece from flopping around like a fish out of water. Generally, it's used for suspension parts. I'd say less than 5% of car owners replace them, as a guess. If you were to buy used, if you're as car-ignorant as you seem to think you are, a CPO (certified pre-owned) car may be a good idea for your next vehicle. They're generally low mileage, someone has already taken the initial depreciation hit, and they get a manufacturer warranty that's often equal to, or better, than the factory warranty. You definitely will pay a lot more for a CPO vs a random used car, but not as much as a brand new car. It also depends on how much/little you drive - in some cases, a lease may make more sense, so long as you go into it knowing that you'll never own the car, you're basically renting it. You would really need to talk to your bank or credit union about this though - many banks and CUs offer car buying services. Particularly smaller banks and local CUs. Any good dealer should let you take a potential car to an independent mechanic to get a pre purchase inspection done. A PPI should be $100ish or less. If you're hellbent on a brand new car, you need to expect to take a massive depreciation hit before you even get the keys. I'd really suggest CPO, as they're generally 1-3 years old and have been checked out (and some reconditioning done) by factory-trained folks. There's also a lot of banking laws about what APR can be charged on a car that's only a couple of years old, so if your credit is poo poo, you can probably get a similar APR on CPO vs brand new. FogHelmut posted:I was planning on going up to the mountains this weekend, and as I'm still relatively new to California, I had no idea "California Air Resources Board has made it illegal to sell winter, non-freezing windshield washer solution." If you use the higher percentage alcohol, yes. The cheap poo poo (which is like 80/20 alcohol/water) will freeze easily. Get some 97%+ rubbing alcohol. Plan to wash and wax your car, it may eat through any wax. But a lot of "won't freeze until 0F!!!!" stuff is full of a form of alcohol anyway. You don't want to drink it - your kidneys and eyes will tell you to gently caress off - but it's still a form of alcohol. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 18:50 on Jan 11, 2017 |
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Jan 11, 2017 18:42
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Don't look at trade. Look at private party value. Trade is always hilariously low, retail is always high. Private party gives you a reasonable idea, but depending where you are, it may wind up being worth a lot more (or less) than private party value. It just depends how desirable your car is, and how valuable people consider the options on it. Where I'm at, if the air conditioning doesn't work, that's basically knocking $1-2k off of the value. Appreciate the input. CPO versus "normal used" would def be a better idea if I am buying used, I agree with that. Both are credit scores are great, no crazy amount of bills, so no concerns on qualifying or being in over our heads (that I know of). I def know that the car depreciates as soon as a new car is off the lot. If I got a new car, the goal is 10 years, so that by itself isn't a big deal. We def don't need a new car just to have a new car. Def wouldn't do a lease, I just can't see that making sense for us. Honestly, we are def leaning towards the repair. I was told by the mechanic that the $2200 was replacing the Valve Body Assembly, not the whole transmission, and that while he can't guarantee it, with Passats once that part is fixed they don't come back. He said the whole transmission would have been $4000-4400. So for me, as long as it's A. Just the Valve Body, B. The rest of the transmission runs a few more years, and C. No other issues, I'm good. So I'm inclined to tell him to order the part, and unless he opens up the car and it's worse than expected, be done with it. If it was $4000 I would be much more hesitant just in the "money pit" part of it.
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Jan 11, 2017 18:57
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Just wasn't sure if it was unsafe for the pumps/lines. 32 oz of 91% isopropyl per gallon of water will take me down to just below 15 F. It shouldn't be getting below 20 degrees at night in these mountains, so I should be okay. http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/ethanol-water-d_989.html
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Jan 11, 2017 19:10
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Yikes. Yeah, $4k is very much at the point where I'd be weighing my options. Even $2k would have me weighing options. If you have good enough credit to qualify for 0% for the first few years, and plan to drive the wheels off of it (and it sounds like you plan to if you want to keep it for 10+ years), then go for it. You generally won't find 0% or any factory incentives on used. If it were my car, I'd be looking for a junkyard transmission instead. The labor will be a bit more, but most junkyards offer at least a 7-14 day warranty if the part is installed by an ASE certified mechanic (some go as high as 90 days if the yard and mechanic have a good relationship). It'll certainly be less than $4k, and likely less than $2k.
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Jan 11, 2017 19:18
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:If you use the higher percentage alcohol, yes. The cheap poo poo (which is like 80/20 alcohol/water) will freeze easily. Get some 97%+ rubbing alcohol. Ethanol-based washer fluids are the most common where I live, though I believe isopropanol is also in use. Diluted down to 1/3 alcohol and 2/3 water they're good down to at least 0F or -18C. Also there's a bit of detergent added, some perfume, some dye and that's pretty much it.
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Jan 11, 2017 19:19
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E15. Opinions? The label on the pump says it's good for anything that's at least a 2003 model year that takes gasoline. That's E15, not E85. It tends to run 20c/gal cheaper, and has a very slightly higher octane rating than regular (88 vs 87). I've been running it off and on for the past month, and my MPG seems to be significantly higher with E15 vs our normal E10 winter blend. My car is NOT flex fuel, but the first time I tried E15, it seemed to hiccup slightly for the first mile, then run fine. I get the same hiccup if I switch back to regular gasoline, for the same amount of time. Butt dyno suggests a slight increase in power on E15, which is the opposite of what I expected. E15 is nearly impossible to find here; I lucked across it at the Walmart across the street. The price difference is very, very nice, and I got a new fuel pump (paid for by GM) a couple of years ago. I have no idea what it's doing to the inside of the lines though. Invalido posted:Ethanol-based washer fluids are the most common where I live, though I believe isopropanol is also in use. Diluted down to 1/3 alcohol and 2/3 water they're good down to at least 0F or -18C. Also there's a bit of detergent added, some perfume, some dye and that's pretty much it. They're common even down here in Texas. They basically smell like Windex with rubbing alcohol mixed in. Though the "Good to 0F!" poo poo I had in my car froze around 15F. So far it doesn't seem like any damage happened. FogHelmut posted:Just wasn't sure if it was unsafe for the pumps/lines. You're fine. The majority of washer fluids have a decent bit of ethanol. Even if it does hurt the lines, they're easy enough to replace on most cars. If anything, I'd expect it to clean out the nozzles a bit.
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Jan 11, 2017 19:27
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:E15. Opinions? The label on the pump says it's good for anything that's at least a 2003 model year that takes gasoline. That's E15, not E85. Jumping on this...a Sheetz near where I work recently changed all of their pumps to dispense the usual regular/mid/premium unleaded as well as an E15 and near E85 (pump says it contains between 70-83% ethanol) handle and I'm also curious. I've been considering filling up with E-15 for a few tanks and see how my mileage changes - I track every tank I pump so I have a good baseline set up for regular unleaded over the past year.
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Jan 11, 2017 20:10
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I use Fuelly to track my mileage. For some bizarre reason, E15 seems to give better mileage, even though it technically contains less energy density. I'm averaging 27-28 mpg on E15, 23-25 on regular.
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Jan 11, 2017 20:46
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Btw, my wife and I weighed everything, decided to go with the repair. Talked to the mechanic, and just made it clear if we need the whole transmission replaced, he knows to call us and we'll then just look at new cars. Guy seems pretty legit, obviously a little trust needed, but he reads fine to me and was referred by my mechanic. So we'll roll the dice and try to get the car to go for another 2ish years. Thanks for your help everyone. If it completely fucks up, you know because I'll be posting here again.
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Jan 11, 2017 21:09
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I've learned that the community college auto shop here will do relatively cheap work. In particular, it was posted in someone else's "recommend me a mechanic plz" facebook thread that they work for "$25 + parts" (which I assume is per hour) under the supervision of an instructor. Pending further details, would it be a godawful idea to go to them for stuff?
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Jan 12, 2017 02:33
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Javid posted:I've learned that the community college auto shop here will do relatively cheap work. In particular, it was posted in someone else's "recommend me a mechanic plz" facebook thread that they work for "$25 + parts" (which I assume is per hour) under the supervision of an instructor. Pending further details, would it be a godawful idea to go to them for stuff? It probably depends on how particular you are about things. I know that when I was going to the JC, taking auto classes, it was because I didn't really know a whole lot about poo poo. Also, some of my classmates really weren't too careful/thoughtful. So I'd expect them to mess up some, maybe leave tool marks on things that a skilled mechanic wouldn't, but I'd also expect them to get the job done. I was responsible for slightly bending the hood of someone's car because it had a manual prop, and all the cars I had worked on just had springs so I just reflexively pulled down on it.  poo poo like that might happen. If it's just a commute appliance for you, and the little details don't bother you too much, it's probably fine and I'd expect nothing terribly bad to happen.
Raluek fucked around with this message at 02:41 on Jan 12, 2017 |
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Jan 12, 2017 02:39
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Raluek posted:It probably depends on how particular you are about things. I know that when I was going to the JC, taking auto classes, it was because I didn't really know a whole lot about poo poo. Also, some of my classmates really weren't too careful/thoughtful. So I'd expect them to mess up some, maybe leave tool marks on things that a skilled mechanic wouldn't, but I'd also expect them to get the job done. I was responsible for slightly bending the hood of someone's car because it had a manual prop, and all the cars I had worked on just had springs so I just reflexively pulled down on it. Were you able to bend the hood back, did you guys let the customer know? Interesting details, thank you.
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Jan 12, 2017 03:12
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For a 10+ year old commuter or beater pickup I would be down. If a rwd manual hell yeah. Most mechanics want $90-110 an hour. My friend in Tulsa charges $75 an hour and thought he is nuts. $25 an hour? gently caress it. If not rebuilding a tranny that is great even if they take twice as long.
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Jan 12, 2017 03:23
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