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Lungboy posted:Also, can anyone recommend some good industrial bases for a Stealer Cult? I have some sheets of plastic textured to look like steel but I don't fancy cutting out a full army's worth. The sector imperialis bases might suit you: 
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Jan 11, 2017 17:04
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glitchkrieg posted:Do you slather it over like a wash, and then let surface tension take over? I apply it more delicately in the areas you want it to "pool"? There are two ways to use it that I've found effective, both of which you should varnish for. 1- Slather over like a wash for an entire contiguous area that is surrounded or filled with recesses. Forgive the shoddy painting otherwise, but this is an example I did.  This guy I basically covered with the stuff wherever there was a dip (like over the fingers and on the chain) or surrounding crevice (armor plates). Contrast with the rest of the figures in the below picture which are the same paint job except I haven't touched them with ink, excepting the chain net.  You can see it's especially good on pitted metallics. 2- If there's a very well-defined recess, you can fill a wash brush up with it and just touch the recess and let capillary action take over. Below is the type I'm talking about.  If the surface has been varnished (these weren't but should have been) then you can just wipe away the excess with a paper towel or cotton swab. Note that I don't actually have an example of this done with Didi's, and the above was done by slathering it with nuln oil. It would have been better if I had done what I said, as that kind of recess is exemplary of the application it's good for.
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Jan 11, 2017 17:18
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Trying to start this hobby again, and was wondering if anybody has a cheap alternative to Flex-i-file flexpads? https://www.amazon.com/Flex-I-File-0525-Flex-Pad-Intro-Set/dp/B00AQMCMYY They are really good but also really expensive. Have anyone tried somtehing like this as an alternative: http://tinyurl.com/z36a5zb ?
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Jan 11, 2017 19:35
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HardCoil posted:Trying to start this hobby again, and was wondering if anybody has a cheap alternative to Flex-i-file flexpads? https://www.amazon.com/Flex-I-File-0525-Flex-Pad-Intro-Set/dp/B00AQMCMYY Ordering direct seems to be slightly cheaper (not sure of the shipping cost, though. EDIT - Shipping is expensive.) The alternatives you listed probably aren't flexible, and are likely to be larger than the Flex-i-files. Unfortunately, I think this is a pretty niche product, so you're not going to find a lot of alternatives.
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Jan 11, 2017 19:48
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So how should I differentiate my frigates visually? Cruisers have the colour flash near the prow, but because of the frigate design it's a little more difficult to handle:
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Jan 11, 2017 20:08
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HardCoil posted:Trying to start this hobby again, and was wondering if anybody has a cheap alternative to Flex-i-file flexpads? https://www.amazon.com/Flex-I-File-0525-Flex-Pad-Intro-Set/dp/B00AQMCMYY I use the ones made by Squadron, they work
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Jan 11, 2017 20:24
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Cross posting this lady: 
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Jan 11, 2017 20:37
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GuardianOfAsgaard posted:The sector imperialis bases might suit you: I'll take a look, thanks.
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Jan 11, 2017 21:40
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Lungboy posted:I'll take a look, thanks. FYI, the detail on these bases is kind of muddy. Take a look at the reviews that have been posted online and see if it will make a difference to you.
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Jan 11, 2017 22:07
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GuardianOfAsgaard posted:Cross posting this lady: Nice! But now I've just found out gw has finally made a mini I need 
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Jan 11, 2017 22:17
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signalnoise posted:There are two ways to use it that I've found effective, both of which you should varnish for. Holy poo poo mofugga buy some goddamn matte.
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Jan 12, 2017 00:16
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Anybody got any strong feelings about the Gold GW spray? Retributor Armour or something like that? Does it go down like a primer or does it need a layer underneath it? Is it any good?
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Jan 12, 2017 00:22
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It goes on like a primer, though naturally it does come out a shade lighter because of that. I've used it on my Custodes and some Celestial Lions I did for a lark. It's not bad, though like the Leadbelcher it seems a slight more sensitive to climate/temperature than typical primers for whatever reason
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Jan 12, 2017 00:30
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Cheers. I usually spray indoors so climate and humidity shouldn't be too much of an issue. Would it come out too thick if I put it over a black layer do you think?
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Jan 12, 2017 00:38
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I've done it a few times with the other colour primers, shouldn't be a problem if you're careful.
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Jan 12, 2017 00:42
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Don't buy GW sprays, they're extremely overpriced. You can buy better quality acrylic spray paint for significantly less. Just go get a can on Montana Gold and save twenty bucks.
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Jan 12, 2017 00:48
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El Estrago Bonito posted:Don't buy GW sprays, they're extremely overpriced. You can buy better quality acrylic spray paint for significantly less. Just go get a can on Montana Gold and save twenty bucks. If you're a nerd like me and care about 100% color match they're worth it in specific instances. The Macragge Blue spray has been a godsend for me and my 3000something points of Ultramarines. I wouldn't buy black or white from them or anything like that, but for specific cases like that it's totally worth it. If I was doing a Custodes or Sigmarine army in the typical gold I'd def grab a can of the gold. It's probably more sensitive because of the metallic flakes in it.
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Jan 12, 2017 02:38
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SRM posted:If you're a nerd like me and care about 100% color match they're worth it in specific instances. The Macragge Blue spray has been a godsend for me and my 3000something points of Ultramarines. I wouldn't buy black or white from them or anything like that, but for specific cases like that it's totally worth it. If I was doing a Custodes or Sigmarine army in the typical gold I'd def grab a can of the gold. It's probably more sensitive because of the metallic flakes in it. Actually it's just really poo poo gold spray paint that's been marked up. You'll get better coverage and a much finer flake on a Montana can then you will the GW. Also IDK what you're talking about because I've never seen one of their sprays that was an exact color match for their non-spray paint.
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Jan 12, 2017 02:44
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Seconding Montana Gold, it's really good and comes in a huge range of colors.
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Jan 12, 2017 02:54
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What's my best bet for an airbrush compressor in the 250 dollar range? I'm a little wary of the Master stuff, since every review I've read mentions getting a free replacement unit in short order.
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Jan 12, 2017 03:16
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grassy gnoll posted:What's my best bet for an airbrush compressor in the 250 dollar range? I'm a little wary of the Master stuff, since every review I've read mentions getting a free replacement unit in short order. I got the Iwata Sprint for 30% off on Amazon and I've had zero problems with it. I've only had it for about a month and I'm a total beginner when it comes to airbrushing, so take that with a grain of salt.
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Jan 12, 2017 04:02
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El Estrago Bonito posted:Actually it's just really poo poo gold spray paint that's been marked up. You'll get better coverage and a much finer flake on a Montana can then you will the GW. Also IDK what you're talking about because I've never seen one of their sprays that was an exact color match for their non-spray paint. Both my cans of Macragge Blue have been perfect matches so  Montana Gold is good stuff though.
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Jan 12, 2017 06:25
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El Estrago Bonito posted:Holy poo poo mofugga buy some goddamn matte. It was a long time ago but yes I've learned. Those were just the best examples of this specific product I had on hand.
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Jan 12, 2017 06:41
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grassy gnoll posted:What's my best bet for an airbrush compressor in the 250 dollar range? I'm a little wary of the Master stuff, since every review I've read mentions getting a free replacement unit in short order. I really like my Paasche D3000R and it's only $130 on Amazon. You will need to tape it up to get it air tight, but that only takes like 20 minutes. and mine came with tape.
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Jan 12, 2017 06:46
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What brands of varnish do you guys like to use for sealing minis? Brush or spray? Does Simple Green strip varnish if I decide I don't like it?
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Jan 12, 2017 07:18
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ineptmule posted:Cheers. I usually spray indoors so climate and humidity shouldn't be too much of an issue. Would it come out too thick if I put it over a black layer do you think? If it goes on like primer then you shouldn't need a black coat. Black Gloss is important for thinner metallic/gem/candy paints to help create depth as the black shines through, if its not thin then it really just helps with getting full coverage and avoiding missing areas during application.
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Jan 12, 2017 07:26
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mango sentinel posted:What brands of varnish do you guys like to use for sealing minis? Brush or spray? Testors Dullcote and gloss coat are what I use. One coat of gloss, two of dullcote is customary for all my metals. One of dullcote for anything in plastic/resin with transfers, which is pretty much everything I paint these days.
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Jan 12, 2017 07:57
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Where do you guys in US like to buy Vallejo paints? My FLGS is done stocking them and I'm getting kind of soured on warstore lately. 4 bricks and 1 completely missing from packing in the last two orders. I know he makes stuff right but I don't want to wait a week for paint and then sit down to do a basecoat and it's a brick and then I have to wait another week. Amazon has spotty listings, often for $6 instead of $3-4 EDIT: I might just order through my FLGS even though they seem to have pared down/ gotten rid of the shelf but other ideas are wanted.
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Jan 12, 2017 08:29
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I decided I wanted to paint an alligator.  Part of the McTavish set for Malifaux. Just need to paint up McTavish himself and get them based. I might also re-do the rust on there. The final metal drybrush obliterated a lot of it.
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Jan 12, 2017 09:02
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signalnoise posted:There are two ways to use it that I've found effective, both of which you should varnish for. Thanks for the advice, it'll come in handy once I start painting again this year.
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Jan 12, 2017 11:49
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How similar are neophyte parts to IG parts? Wondering if they'd be compatible with FW stuff. e: wrong thread ijyt fucked around with this message at 13:37 on Jan 12, 2017 |
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Jan 12, 2017 13:32
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They're pretty drat flexible. Seen them fit on Skitarii, Fire Warriors, 3rd party stuff. Basically any standard humanoid.
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Jan 12, 2017 13:37
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JackMann posted:I decided I wanted to paint an alligator. Det dere be an awesum gatah, son.
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Jan 12, 2017 13:49
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berzerkmonkey posted:FYI, the detail on these bases is kind of muddy. Take a look at the reviews that have been posted online and see if it will make a difference to you. Oh right,.doesn't sound marvellous. I'll have a read. E: bit of a mixed bag of reviews. I'll probably get a box of the smallest to have a look. Lungboy fucked around with this message at 14:01 on Jan 12, 2017 |
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Jan 12, 2017 13:52
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SteelMentor posted:They're pretty drat flexible. Seen them fit on Skitarii, Fire Warriors, 3rd party stuff. Basically any standard humanoid. Neat, thank you. Those padded legs would look good with the FW Renegade torsos I think.
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Jan 12, 2017 14:39
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GuardianOfAsgaard posted:Cross posting this lady:   If GW made more miniatures based on John Blanche artwork I might actually give them money.
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Jan 12, 2017 14:40
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Are there any tricks to static grass placement? Like where and how much on a base?
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Jan 12, 2017 15:31
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Phi230 posted:Are there any tricks to static grass placement? Like where and how much on a base? Depends on how you want it to look. Personally, I like patches or tufts, rather than an entire base. In that case: I'll put some gravel on the base and paint as usual. Then, I'll put a small blob of a tacky glue down where I want the patch. I'll then use a pair of tweezers and pick up a clump of grass and put the clump onto the tacky glue spot(s). Finally, I turn the mini over and lightly tap the bottom of the base, knocking the loose grass off (make sure you put down a piece of paper to collect the grass that falls off - no sense in wasting it.) Let it dry. Depending on the color of the grass, you may want to touch it up with a little drybrush.
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Jan 12, 2017 15:52
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Crossposting from the 40k Thread. Here's the 3 Skitarii Rangers I've finished so far. Thing's I've learned for the next model and unit: fill in gap lines, seal miniatures so the paint won't chip, don't forget to undercoat the base before applying the texture.  
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Jan 12, 2017 16:41
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berzerkmonkey posted:Ordering direct seems to be slightly cheaper (not sure of the shipping cost, though. EDIT - Shipping is expensive.) The alternatives you listed probably aren't flexible, and are likely to be larger than the Flex-i-files. Thanks. I found these, which may be a good compromise: http://www.antenocitisworkshop.com/sanding-files-coarse-20mm/a-1853/ Going to order some and see how they compare. The squadron ones seem as expensive as flex-i-file.
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Jan 12, 2017 19:47
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