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Ensign Expendable posted:Tanks are great. Is that the Tamiya kit? Yeah it's the tamiya kit, And goddamnit. I knew the hatch looked odd.
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Jan 9, 2017 22:13
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I like the lighting in that shot.
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Jan 9, 2017 22:14
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Tankheads of the world unite Tried to get some decent shots of my DAK tanks (Tamiya 1:48), but gently caress me if I can ever get focus. Need to get a decent tripod or something.  Happy 2017 and build tons of tanks, y'all  High Fantasy StuG III: afaik, there was about 7 (!) StuGs in the desert, and they'd be earlier models than this without shürzen.       I tried a ton of new stuff on these: - preshading and highlights with airbrush - chipping with sponge - enamel wash In the end I think they are over-weathered, as you'll bound to do when you try new techniques, but they were hella fun to build and paint. Tamiya 1:48 AFVs are totally my jam now.
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Jan 9, 2017 23:04
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If you've got an "everything one unit currency!" type shop near you then you can usually get cheap camera tripods in there for next to nothing. They do the job for just plopping it down on the same table as the tank or whatever.
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Jan 9, 2017 23:17
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The_Rob posted:This is my first time building a tank and I'm pleased with the results. I still need to weather the tracks and everything, but building a tank is really fun. lilljonas posted:In the end I think they are over-weathered, as you'll bound to do when you try new techniques, but they were hella fun to build and paint. Tamiya 1:48 AFVs are totally my jam now.
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Jan 10, 2017 00:14
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Cartoon posted:Gorgeous result and a really great photo! Thanks man that means a lot to someone like me who is still pretty new to modeling, not to mention this is an early attempt at doing kits other than Gunpla.
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Jan 10, 2017 00:34
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Ensign Expendable posted:Looks amazing! I had this same issue with my Talon when I first got it. I just took my hose and regulator to Lowes and got an adapter from the plumbing section for about $.75 and sealed it with plumbing tape.
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Jan 11, 2017 17:15
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I spent three days looking for one, finally managed to stack two adapters together to get the threading to fit. I naively didn't buy plumber's tape, so naturally the connection is leaky. Going to do that today.
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Jan 11, 2017 17:47
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I initially forgot, too, and couldn't figure out why my PSI was dropping so much. Problem solved.
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Jan 11, 2017 21:04
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Not mine, but... 1:96 scale 8channel RC mustang  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JSgRTPGYEQA ...and it loving flies!  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0QwabcKUTuI
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Jan 11, 2017 21:41
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Thoatse posted:Not mine, but... 1:96 scale 8channel RC mustang 
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Jan 11, 2017 23:21
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I wish to own that little flying plane
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Jan 11, 2017 23:57
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That is insanely good.
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Jan 12, 2017 00:54
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After liberally wrapping my gizmo in plumber's tape, it seems to almost not leak air at all, which means I finally tried out my airbrush today! Holy poo poo, the difference from the Mastercraft one is enormous, literally every function is faster and easier, including cleaning and filling up paint. Thank you everyone again for your help and specifically Bloody Hedgehog for the recommendation.
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Jan 12, 2017 03:11
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No prob, glad to be of help! You'll have so much more fun with your new brush.
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Jan 12, 2017 04:26
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I have some more new pictures of old models if no-one minds me sharing. 1:35 Tamiya Sherman - This was the first ever model I used an airbrush on. Must be about 6 years old now.     1:35 Dragon Panther - I always liked the rear deck     EDIT: And this one: 
big_g fucked around with this message at 08:24 on Jan 13, 2017 |
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Jan 12, 2017 23:37
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Drop dead gorgeous!
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Jan 13, 2017 00:02
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big_g posted:
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Jan 13, 2017 01:33
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Tiger - I
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For any of you that use Tamiya acrylic paint: where do you get it? Amazon has it way too expensive (like $6 not including shipping) and there isn't a physical model shop within, like, 50 miles of where I live that stocks it. I really like how it sprays (it's way nicer to spray than Model Air and way easier to clean out of an airbrush than MM enamels), but it's really hard to find a source that's not insanely expensive.
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Jan 13, 2017 01:57
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Triggerhappypilot posted:For any of you that use Tamiya acrylic paint: where do you get it? Amazon has it way too expensive (like $6 not including shipping) and there isn't a physical model shop within, like, 50 miles of where I live that stocks it. I really like how it sprays (it's way nicer to spray than Model Air and way easier to clean out of an airbrush than MM enamels), but it's really hard to find a source that's not insanely expensive. I haven't used Tamiya paints, but I have ordered a lot of other paint and supplies from Sprue Brothers and they have always been great to work with and the shipping is fast. http://store.spruebrothers.com/category_s/1985.htm Speaking of MM enamels, I wanted a variety of enamels so I ordered about 12 bottles of MM. I thought that all model master paints were enamels, but it turns out that there is also MM lacquer. The labels are clearly different, I just didn't pay attention  Does anybody have any good recommendations for lacquer or enamel primary bright colors for airbrushing? I have tons of earthy greens, browns, and grays, but very little in yellows, oranges, and zero purples or pinks.
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Jan 13, 2017 02:21
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SkunkDuster posted:Speaking of MM enamels, I wanted a variety of enamels so I ordered about 12 bottles of MM. I thought that all model master paints were enamels, but it turns out that there is also MM lacquer. The labels are clearly different, I just didn't pay attention The testors enamels are essentially the same thing as model master enamel, and they've got a billion colors. The quality on a few of the colors is meh, but they're dirt cheap and last a long time- I'm still spraying stuff I bought ~15 years ago.
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Jan 13, 2017 02:52
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Who likes FW-190? Who likes weathering gone overboard? Tons of things went wrong but on a whole it looks pretty rad.  More of the excitement! http://imgur.com/a/Uol3o The kit is the Eduard 8175 with a canopy mask and small PE fret mostly for the cockpit. The underside is done with blackbasing, although it doesn't show up very well in the pictures. The streaking is done with oil and the colors used are the new Vallejo RLM 74,75 and 76 (71.257, 71.258, 71.259). The dark gray RLM 75 is a bit too dark so it makes it difficult to tell from the green, but it looks better in reality under a good light. The kit is pretty good but if you build it closed the top panels will have problems fitting with the fuselage. But on the other hand the engine lacks a lot of detail so you'd probably want a resin one or the PE fret for it. I just added some wire and painted some detail on it.
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Jan 14, 2017 11:31
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makka-setan posted:Who likes FW-190? Who likes weathering gone overboard? Count me in on both. Love me some WWII aeroplanes. Looks good, man. Nailed the engine and I think you did well with the weathering. Maybe a bit much with the chipping. Keeping it to angled surfaces and only the edges of panels creates a better look, imo. Mister Dog fucked around with this message at 22:44 on Jan 14, 2017 |
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Jan 14, 2017 22:40
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One of the modeling sites I subscribe to on my facebook feed posted a video of creating cargo packs and stuff for tanks out of modeling clay. It was two guys in the video and one guy was kind of the host and the other guy was creating the gear. This was a few weeks ago and now I can't find the video. Does anybody know which one I am talking about? Also, I made some more Star Wars metal kits. These things are pretty fun!
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Jan 15, 2017 15:58
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SkunkDuster posted:
The tin snips make a great pair of sprue cutters, and the needle nose pliers are good. Cheaper than paying 10-12 just for the sprue cutters through Micromark.
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Jan 15, 2017 17:31
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Those Metal Earth kits are great, shame their tanks bear only a vague resemblance to the original.
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Jan 15, 2017 20:39
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Boomer The Cannon posted:The tin snips make a great pair of sprue cutters, and the needle nose pliers are good. Cheaper than paying 10-12 just for the sprue cutters through Micromark. I use these Hakko CHP cutters. For the cheap price, they are surprisingly good. This mini pliers set has worked pretty well for me so far. I only use the two on the left. The cutters are garbage and I haven't found any use for the rounded pliers. A small pin punch (1/16" or so) is my tool of choice for bending the tabs over. I try to avoid twisting them whenever possible as it makes for a weak joint. Drill bits are great for forming rounded pieces. If you don't have the right size bit, you can use a bit that is a bit undersized and wrap tape around it to bring it to the right diameter. I also cheat and use epoxy as a strengthener on questionable joints like the arms of the Tie Fighter, the legs and feet of the AT-AT and the rear fins and guns of the snowspeeder. I don't have anything for tapered rounds. I've been kicking around the idea of finding somebody with a lathe to make me some steel rods with various tapers, then I start to wonder if that might be a little on the obsessive/crazy side.
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Jan 15, 2017 20:54
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SkunkDuster posted:One of the modeling sites I subscribe to on my facebook feed posted a video of creating cargo packs and stuff for tanks out of modeling clay. It was two guys in the video and one guy was kind of the host and the other guy was creating the gear. This was a few weeks ago and now I can't find the video. Does anybody know which one I am talking about? I found the video I was looking for. I don't do tanks, but it is still a good watch: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WckO9qShoRA
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Jan 17, 2017 06:03
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Decided to paint the 1:16 brass Stuka after all. There'd be way to much evidence of filing and sanding otherwise.
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Jan 17, 2017 19:33
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What's the modeling line for WW1 plane rigging etc. called? The slightly stretchy one that stays taut after attaching? VVV: Thanks! Pierzak fucked around with this message at 19:58 on Jan 17, 2017 |
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Jan 17, 2017 19:40
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EZ Line
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Jan 17, 2017 19:52
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I finished my giant t-rex robot kit. It was 1,400 pieces so it took me a couple hundred hours and a year to build. It is massive, well balanced, and highly flexible and poseable. I don't have a photobox, unfortunately, and the box it came in was unsuitable to serve as a backdrop.  Did I mention it's big? I kept a water bottle in there for scale. In that leaning forward pose, it measures 25" from nose to tail. The tail by itself is 16".
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Jan 17, 2017 23:32
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Kibner posted:I finished my giant t-rex robot kit. It was 1,400 pieces so it took me a couple hundred hours and a year to build. It is massive, well balanced, and highly flexible and poseable. I don't have a photobox, unfortunately, and the box it came in was unsuitable to serve as a backdrop. The Kotobukiya Gojulas is an amazing kit from top to bottom. Nevermind the price .Now get the Gojulas Ogre's standalone cannon pack and upgrade the sucker  .
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Jan 18, 2017 00:27
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I picked up a cheapo air brush cleaning kit on Amazon for $20 and holy poo poo, it made a world of difference. I've got a Bandai A-Wing I'm working on, here's some WIP. Once my MIG order arrives I'll finish it up.  
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Jan 18, 2017 01:04
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Kibner posted:I finished my giant t-rex robot kit. It was 1,400 pieces so it took me a couple hundred hours and a year to build. It is massive, well balanced, and highly flexible and poseable. I don't have a photobox, unfortunately, and the box it came in was unsuitable to serve as a backdrop. I remember when you bought that. An amazing kit.
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Jan 18, 2017 01:26
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Yooper posted:I've got a Bandai A-Wing I'm working on, I'm not sure if it was mentioned yet, but Bandai just announed their AT AT in 1/144 will be available in March. http://www.taghobby.com/?p=160735
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Jan 18, 2017 01:30
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Greyhawk posted:I'm not sure if it was mentioned yet, but Bandai just announed their AT AT in 1/144 will be available in March. Excellent! Though I wish it was in 1/48 to match the AT/ST.
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Jan 18, 2017 02:04
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Cool I'd love to build one with hatches and panels open like this.
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Jan 18, 2017 02:39
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Neddy Seagoon posted:The Kotobukiya Gojulas is an amazing kit from top to bottom. Nevermind the price I'm just ready to move on to something else now, tbh. Greyhawk posted:I remember when you bought that. An amazing kit. The only real quibble I have with the kit is that the silver and gold parts get real dark when I shave them down. They seem to be made of a different material than the blue, gray, and dark gray parts. It is real noticeable because it's like 10 shades darker, no matter how careful I was. Painting those pieces would be the easiest quality improvement for the kit. My next kit is probably going to be the giant robot scorpion (Death Stinger). Same scale as this Gojulas, but like a third of the parts.
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Jan 18, 2017 04:31
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Greyhawk posted:I'm not sure if it was mentioned yet, but Bandai just announed their AT AT in 1/144 will be available in March. wow i'm reading a thread about it on another forum and people are super unhappy with it being in 1/144. I'm excited. I've been hesitant about the Zvezda Star Destroyer mainly because of size. Please though, Bandai. 1/72 B-wing.
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Jan 18, 2017 10:19
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