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vulturesrow posted:So who are the"go to" woodworking guys on YouTube? What do you want to build? Hand or power tools? Experience level? The last several videos I watched were by the wood whisperer, wood by wright, David Barron, and Homestead Heritage School of Woodworking.
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Jan 14, 2017 07:43
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The tote on my #5 has always been broken, with the plastic handle cracked around the bottom screw from over-tightening. After getting my walnut I finally had some nice material to make a new one which matched the dovetail daw I made a few weeks ago. I used the Lee Valley plans which were excellent, though I wish I had have made it a bit bigger rather than following the plans to the letter. Maybe I'll do that for some of my other planes... (images are broken till I install an SSL cert on my site, whoops. ) http://graniteoctopus.com/media/images/IMG_4338.original.jpg Holes are bored and rough outline done on the bandsaw http://graniteoctopus.com/media/images/IMG_4341.original.jpg Shaping done with some rasps, files and sandpaper, and first coat of shellac http://graniteoctopus.com/media/images/IMG_4345.original.jpg Mounted! A lot more secure than the whole handle. Not bad for an afternoon! It's a really great project for someone new to carving I think, and I wouldn't hesitate to suggest it as a project for any experience level woodworker. Hardest part was probably boring the main hole since it has to be perfectly straight, and you have to come at it from both sizes. I spent more time than usual in stock preparation to make sure both top and bottom edges were perfectly square and co-planaer. I had to borrow a friends drill press as well since I wasn't confident doing this with a hand drill.
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Jan 14, 2017 09:28
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On YouTube: I really like Ishitani Furniture if I just want to chill and watch something woodworking related. It's a lot more power tool centric than my shop, and there is no talking, but the production values are high and their work is really top notch. I don't want to be a hater or unkind to woodworking YouTubers, especially since I want to make some videos myself, but Wormil is right about YouTube having a real lack of "fine woodworking" type contributors. The folks who can do high production value and high skill work are all still doing DVDs as the viewer base for this type of video is way too small to make it worthwhile based on YouTube ad revenue. The videos that appeal to a wide enough audience to make YouTube worthwhile are mostly DIY/Maker focused if they have high production values (e.g. Laura Kampf) or "making shop focused" where the production values are much lower. Of all of the "making shop" type videos I probably like Stumpy Nubs the best, but I generally don't spend a lot of time on these types of channels. It seems like the high production value YouTubers use it as a means of marketing their own work/shop, to drive new business, rather than making their living from YouTube ad revenue.
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Jan 14, 2017 15:54
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Spazz posted:The bearings all need to be broken out, cleaned up, and repacked with fresh grease. A few of them won't even spin freely since they are so clogged with sawdust. I was going to repack with general purpose grease unless someone else has a recommendation on a specific brand. Consider replacing the open bearings with shielded versions of the same spec. Hopefully there are some numbers you can google to look up the exact size/load/rpm specs and you can find a replacement from an easy vendor like Mcmaster, Zoro or MSC. Otherwise, scroll through a Timkin catalog and find a distributor. Also, replacing the bearings opens up the destructive removal option and you can use an abrasive cutoff disk to cut through the races and peel them from shaft.
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Jan 14, 2017 16:32
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wormil posted:It always seemed a bit much to have 2 words for what amounts to the same thing but I suppose it's handy if you are giving instructions to an apprentice ... maybe? A rabbet is a rabbet regardless of grain orientation. Yeah this is what I was thinking, I didn't even consider he was using 2 words for the same thing.
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Jan 14, 2017 16:37
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Mr. Mambold posted:Yeah this is what I was thinking, I didn't even consider he was using 2 words for the same thing. He's not from what I read. A rabbet is a non housed relief joint located at the edge of a board irrespective of grain direction. Why our woodworking ancestors decided they needed separate words for cross grain and with the grain housed joints, I.e. dado and groove, is lost to history. But the convention remains. A more interesting argument to me: at what size does a mortise become a stopped-dado or stopped-groove?
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Jan 14, 2017 17:09
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GEMorris posted:He's not from what I read. A rabbet is a non housed relief joint located at the edge of a board irrespective of grain direction. Right. Hadn't had my  yet. To me a dado is not an edge cut, it's across the face of a board. But w/e 
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Jan 14, 2017 17:32
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bred posted:Consider replacing the open bearings with shielded versions of the same spec. Hopefully there are some numbers you can google to look up the exact size/load/rpm specs and you can find a replacement from an easy vendor like Mcmaster, Zoro or MSC. Otherwise, scroll through a Timkin catalog and find a distributor. I've had really good luck buying bearings on eBay. I know it sounds sketchy but I've gotten good deals on high quality American, Japanese, etc., bearings that are NOS or overstock.
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Jan 14, 2017 18:55
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GEMorris posted:That's the same one I built, there is a set of plans floating around that is both that sawbench and a smaller bench that nests inside/under it when not in use. That's what I built and I find them invaluable. The one criticism you'll hear of that style is the difficulty of performing long rips on them as the sawblade can run into the canted legs. I don't generally rip with a handsaw so it has never been an issue for me. I think the split top ones solve this issue, but are imo quite ugly. I found a set of plans here: https://blog.lostartpress.com/2008/02/17/free-construction-drawings-for-the-2008-sawbench/ that look buildable at my current skill level, so I am going to try and adjust these drawings a bit to be able to pick up 1 or 2 2x10's at Lowes and cut them down to make it work. I really need to find a hardwood / lumber yard around here, but the lack of transport makes things tough unless I need to purchase enough lumber to rent a U-haul for a few hours. vulturesrow posted:So who are the"go to" woodworking guys on YouTube? I like watching some of Matt Cremona's videos, he does an Q&A series where he has hit a lot of basic topics that I think some other Youtubers assume knowledge of.
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Jan 14, 2017 19:47
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If you're lucky, your lumber yard may do crosscuts for free. I bought wood this morning and had them cut the 12' boards down to 2x6' which fits fine in my hatch back. There's another lumber yard in the twin cities that is aimed more at contractors and charges for crosscuts.
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Jan 14, 2017 20:10
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Mr. Mambold posted:Right. Hadn't had my Umm, we agree. A rabbet is at the edge regardless of grain direction, a dado is not at the edge (but is also cross grained) and a groove is not at the edge (but is with the grain). I was using "housed" to convey the "not at the edge part". Sorry for all the semantics, part of my day job is debating the meaning of words.
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Jan 14, 2017 20:39
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Am I correct that there is no distinction between a dado or groove in plywood/cabinetry?
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Jan 14, 2017 21:50
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MetaJew posted:Am I correct that there is no distinction between a dado or groove in plywood/cabinetry? https://www.wwgoa.com/video/learn-the-difference-between-dados-and-grooves-008507/
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Jan 14, 2017 21:54
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GEMorris posted:Umm, we agree. A rabbet is at the edge regardless of grain direction, a dado is not at the edge (but is also cross grained) and a groove is not at the edge (but is with the grain). Eh it's ok, I'm not antisemantic.
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Jan 15, 2017 02:01
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Spent the evening at a work shop renting a bench. They charge a flat $6/hr rate, seems reasonable. Lots of power tools, it is loud in there. When it's less busy, I may pull one of the shop managers over and ask them to show me the ropes on each machine. I'm building Schwartz's Dutch tool chest, as I'm currently carting my tools to the shop in a cardboard box. Kind of annoyed with myself because I wasted an hour and a half trying to flatten 6' boards instead of just cutting it to length and flattening a bunch of 2-3' boards. Oh well, I'm learning...
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Jan 15, 2017 02:01
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ColdPie posted:I'm building Schwartz's Dutch tool chest, as I'm currently carting my tools to the shop in a cardboard box. Post pictures. I am currently getting together the stuff for mine. I just bought some fancy hinges and cut nails for it. Atticus_1354 fucked around with this message at 02:19 on Jan 15, 2017 |
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Jan 15, 2017 02:02
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One thing I recommend on the dutch tool chests is to decide if you care about "security", e.g. I don't have a lock on mine cause if someone is in a position where they can swipe a tool out of my chest then they could also just swipe the whole drat chest. If you decide you don't, then I recommend doing the door of the bottom compartment as a sliding dovetail panel rather than a fall front with the "locks" accessed from inside the top compartment. It worked for me and saved both space and effort. I really need to finish up the saw mounting for the underside of my lid so I can post pics.
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Jan 15, 2017 03:27
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GEMorris posted:He's not from what I read. A rabbet is a non housed relief joint located at the edge of a board irrespective of grain direction. The one thing that comes to mind to me is that they have different implications for joint strength due to grain directions. A dado would be gluing side-to-end grain along the length of the cut, wheras a groove would be gluing side-to-side grain (and so should be much stronger) right?
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Jan 15, 2017 03:43
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Atticus_1354 posted:Post pictures. I am currently getting together the stuff for mine. I just bought some fancy hinges and cut nails for it. We probably bought the same stuff. My lumber yard didn't have any wide boards, so currently I'm just doing a bunch of dimensioning and edge gluing.
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Jan 15, 2017 03:57
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GEMorris posted:One thing I recommend on the dutch tool chests is to decide if you care about "security", e.g. I don't have a lock on mine cause if someone is in a position where they can swipe a tool out of my chest then they could also just swipe the whole drat chest. Thanks for the thoughts, any other tips are appreciated. I don't understand what you mean by using a sliding dovetail. Where do you put the groove (dado?  )? I thought the "lock" was more about keeping the panel from accidentally falling out during transit than being secure. How does the sliding dovetail prevent the door falling off?
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Jan 15, 2017 04:02
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GEMorris posted:One thing I recommend on the dutch tool chests is to decide if you care about "security", e.g. I don't have a lock on mine cause if someone is in a position where they can swipe a tool out of my chest then they could also just swipe the whole drat chest. I considered changing up the front panel like you mention, but I will be doing some traveling with my case and a lock is a nice way to keep peoples paws off your tools in a shared space. And my tools will be mostly spending their time at my families property. I don't think my brother in laws would steal anything, but they would dull up my chisels. ColdPie posted:We probably bought the same stuff. I ended up with a hasp and handles off ebay since with shipping they were a cheaper choice. Nails and hinges are from lee valley since I was getting some other things also.
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Jan 15, 2017 04:04
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Is $3.25 a good board foot price for white oak?
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Jan 15, 2017 04:27
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Tres Burritos posted:Is $3.25 a good board foot price for white oak? It would be around me. Just checked my local list and it is $4.10 for 4/4 rough.
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Jan 15, 2017 04:29
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ColdPie posted:Thanks for the thoughts, any other tips are appreciated. Like this:  Sounds like Atticus has some good reasons for going with the locking option. GEMorris fucked around with this message at 04:40 on Jan 15, 2017 |
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Jan 15, 2017 04:36
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GEMorris posted:Like this: That looks good too. I considered toggle locks to keep it in place, but put that aside when I decided I for sure wanted it to lock.
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Jan 15, 2017 04:56
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So, we lost one of our Walnuts. It's a hybrid white/black (thick sap wood, black heart). I'm going to attempt milling it, but it's going to have to sit unit the ground firms back up in the spring. Any reocmmendations for cheap end seal?
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Jan 15, 2017 23:38
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the spyder posted:So, we lost one of our Walnuts. It's a hybrid white/black (thick sap wood, black heart). I'm going to attempt milling it, but it's going to have to sit unit the ground firms back up in the spring. Any reocmmendations for cheap end seal? Plain old exterior grade paint works fine, the big difference between it and anchorseal is the paint will need 2-3 coats to really work. The really important thing to do is to get it up off the ground a few inches.
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Jan 16, 2017 00:12
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Hurm, I bet some of the $25/5gal recycled house paint our local waste-center makes would work fine then. I was just talking with my brother about finding some rail road ties to put the pieces onto. It's going to be a wet few months until we can pull it off the hill.
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Jan 16, 2017 00:51
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I have a can of 25 year old oil base latex for sealing turning blanks. I glob on two thick layers and that works well.
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Jan 16, 2017 01:38
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Anyone built any of the Paulk benches? I need something along lines as I have very limited space and they seem like a really good solution.
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Jan 16, 2017 03:03
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I'm putting the top of my workbench together slowly, and I'm finding some places where my glue-ups are not as tight as they probably should be. I remember seeing someone use an epoxy to fill gaps and holes in a slab of wood, but I can't remember the video - is there a specific epoxy that should be used for something like this, or can I just pretty much grab any 2-part epoxy at home depot and use it to fill the holes I've left?
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Jan 16, 2017 05:33
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I dunno about epoxy, but one common trick is to mix some glue with sawdust and then fill the gaps with that. It'll do a good job of color-matching...not that that's a huge issue on a workbench.
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Jan 16, 2017 06:03
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vulturesrow posted:Anyone built any of the Paulk benches? I need something along lines as I have very limited space and they seem like a really good solution. I built a small hybrid Jay Bates/Paulk work bench. It does not break down for transport, I use it as an assembly table/table saw outfeed/storage. Works great, I really like that you can store a bunch of stuff in it without cluttering the top.
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Jan 16, 2017 09:49
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A question about using reclaimed wooden pallets. I want to build my wife a chef's table (a DIY'ed wooden table to go in the centre of our kitchen for food prep). I was thinking of using some reclaimed wood pallets since nearby businesses are usually giving them away for free. Is there any way of knowing/determining if the wooden pallets contain harmful treatment chemicals that will kill us all if there aren't any visible stamps or markings on them? I probably won't risk it if there's no definite way of knowing, but I was just curious of any other ways to ID wood pallet safeness.
melon cat fucked around with this message at 20:11 on Jan 16, 2017 |
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Jan 16, 2017 20:06
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melon cat posted:A question about using reclaimed wooden pallets. I want to build my wife a chef's table (a DIY'ed wooden table to go in the centre of our kitchen for food prep). I was thinking of using some reclaimed wood pallets since nearby businesses are usually giving them away for free. Is there any way of knowing/determining if the wooden pallets contain harmful treatment chemicals that will kill us all if there aren't any visible stamps or markings on them? If it's painted, don't use it. If you can't find markings, don't use it. Also, be mindful of where you get the pallet from. Sometimes the pallet itself will be fine, but it may have been used to transport chemicals which could have spilled on the pallet that wouldn't be good to use. Honestly, I've never had any problems finding marked pallets for use in woodworking projects.
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Jan 16, 2017 20:17
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n0tqu1tesane posted:If it's painted, don't use it. If you can't find markings, don't use it. Sometimes they've been used outside of hospital morgues. But, hey
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Jan 16, 2017 20:51
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They can also be used to transport food and some 10% tested positive for E. coli by the NCL in 2010. I personally wouldn't do it. Just wear a respirator and goggles when sanding/cutting.
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Jan 16, 2017 20:59
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Man, waxing my plane is like the craziest thing. I have a solid hunk of beeswax that I just rub on and suddenly that thing flies across the wood. It doesn't even look like it leaves any residue, but there you go. Handy tip for anyone that uses hand tools I guess. On the plus side, we're moved in and my workbench is setup, so I've started finishing up my workbench. I'm somewhat glad I made some pretty big errors because I'm learning from them, but to recap:
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Jan 17, 2017 09:47
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Falcon2001 posted:Man, waxing my plane is like the craziest thing. I have a solid hunk of beeswax that I just rub on and suddenly that thing flies across the wood. It doesn't even look like it leaves any residue, but there you go. Handy tip for anyone that uses hand tools I guess. Curious to here about the difficulties you've had building it. I didn't consider it because I didn't like the big aprons, but it *seemed* simple enough at a glance. And yeah I was never selective enough about the quality of my timber. You can't spend too much time looking over pieces before you buy them.
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Jan 17, 2017 12:36
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My girlfriend wants to buy a new bed and mattress, upgrading our Queen to a King I don't really want to buy a new bed and box-spring and have been tossing around the idea of making my own simple wooden platform How realistic is it for me to create a large, bread-board/ butcher's block style wooden platform similar to this? 
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Jan 17, 2017 12:57
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