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Discount Tire won't even mount them on the front if you ask. They have signs up everywhere explaining why.
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Jan 16, 2017 16:49
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I stand corrected, then. I've never had a problem with the rear end hydroplaning on any front-wheel drive car I've ever owned, however.
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Jan 16, 2017 16:54
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Ok, here's an odd one. For a research project I'm looking at, I need a motor that makes at least 60hp, is dry sumped so that it can run in multiple orientations, is fuel injected, and can run on various aircraft fuels like Jet A. The smaller/lighter the better. My first thought was a rotary of course, but one of the caveats is that the motor has to be currently in production, and as far as I know nobody is making a wankel right now. So, do you have any ideas?
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Jan 16, 2017 17:26
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Are you making a giant robot powered by  American Gasoline and need multi-orientation engines for the forearms? Asking for a friend.Are there any mass-produced inverted vee rally-style engines? Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 17:38 on Jan 16, 2017 |
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Jan 16, 2017 17:35
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Deteriorata posted:I stand corrected, then. I've never had a problem with the rear end hydroplaning on any front-wheel drive car I've ever owned, however. Be glad. It's loving terrifying if you're doing it on purpose. I did it at 55 mph and careened into a forested area. Rear tires were bald as gently caress, one new cheap piece of poo poo up front (replacing a tire with the steel cord showing) because I was poor as gently caress and thought the same thing: FWD=good tires up front. Going around a slow bend in wet conditions (usually this was a 70-80 mph area for traffic). The rear end just flew out and I rotated 270* then hit one of those highway markers between the passenger door and the front wheel...a couple of inches further forward it would've hit the tire and probably totaled the car, a couple of inches further back and it would hit the A-pillar and door hinges and possibly totaled it. That sent me spinning counterclockwise through a foot of snow a few dozen yards off the pavement, and I came to a stop about 18" from a huge tree right outside my door. I could barely open it enough to squeeze out. A root sticking up out of the ground punctured the sidewall of the new tire, naturally. I escaped with no injury (but holy poo poo the sight of that tree approaching my door was something else), and the only damage was a front fender and a tire. I was lucky as poo poo that I didn't hit a tree.
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Jan 16, 2017 18:13
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Deteriorata posted:ABS is present on nearly all cars now and should prevent the rear end skidding out. No. No it's not. My car is relatively modern (2006) and doesn't have ABS. GM was one of the first to make it standard equipment on nearly everything they sold.. then made it optional on anything not high end in the early 2000s. They did the same thing with side impact air bags, and often bundled ABS with the side air bags (my car lacks both). Even if you do have ABS, it's not going to do poo poo to keep the rear end end from swinging out. Some cars have really touchy ABS that's pretty great at causing wrecks (google "corvette ice mode" for plenty of examples... some Cadillacs have the same issue).
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Jan 16, 2017 18:37
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Mr. Wiggles posted:Ok, here's an odd one. For a research project I'm looking at, I need a motor that makes at least 60hp, is dry sumped so that it can run in multiple orientations, is fuel injected, and can run on various aircraft fuels like Jet A. The smaller/lighter the better. So, actually I found a small rotary manufacturer in England that makes UAV rotaries that might work. But it would still be cool to have some other options.
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Jan 16, 2017 18:42
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Mr. Wiggles posted:Ok, here's an odd one. For a research project I'm looking at, I need a motor that makes at least 60hp, is dry sumped so that it can run in multiple orientations, is fuel injected, and can run on various aircraft fuels like Jet A. The smaller/lighter the better. Are turbines not allowed?
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Jan 16, 2017 19:17
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A lot of sports bike engines are dry sumped.
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Jan 16, 2017 19:18
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If you're worried about braking performance and ABS while thinking about where to mount new tires, you're missing part of the point. The rear end is gonna slide out in a corner and there's gently caress all you're gonna be able to do about it. If you have a newer vehicle that includes yaw control in its electronic stability programming (not traction control), then it might save your rear end, but it's not something you should be planning for. This video was made by Michelin https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3xzQQfT5O84
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Jan 16, 2017 19:19
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Sweevo posted:A lot of sports bike engines are dry sumped. JP-8 or Jet A won't work in a gasoline engine. You're looking at a diesel or turbine with those fuels.
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Jan 16, 2017 19:19
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EightBit posted:Are turbines not allowed? Yeah, if I could find one small enough that wasn't a zillion dollars. No problem with a a turbine.
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Jan 16, 2017 19:28
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Ram Jet? No moving parts!
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Jan 16, 2017 19:47
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:No. No it's not. My car is relatively modern (2006) and doesn't have ABS. GM was one of the first to make it standard equipment on nearly everything they sold.. then made it optional on anything not high end in the early 2000s. ABS only became mandatory in the US in 2013. 
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Jan 16, 2017 20:19
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2003 Lexus GS430 with 170k miles, the powering steering makes a lot of noise when cold, but goes away once the car is warm. I'm not sure if the PS fluid has ever been changed, but if it was, it was a long time ago. Any chance changing the PS fluid will make the whine go away, or does that mean something in the pump is likely on its way out?
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Jan 16, 2017 21:18
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It has to work harder when the fluid is cold, so it could be either of your suggestions or nothing. Change the fluid anyway, it needs to be done.
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Jan 16, 2017 22:32
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2009 Suzuki SX4 with 111k miles, 5-speed transmission. The shifter has a really hard feel to it, I just dropped it off at the shop today and had them check the fluid level, I was hoping it was just a lack off lubrication, but it turns out it's something more serious. They said it barely had any fluid in it and it had a lot of metal shavings in it. They flushed it and topped it off and they said it didn't improve the shifter feel at all. Tomorrow they're going to check the linkage but obviously beyond that it's going to be an internal (expensive) issue. Just wondering if anybody has experience with these transmissions and if there is a common issue with linkage. I thought I had read online that they don't have external, serviceable shift linkage, and that it was integrated with the transmission internals, but the guy at the shop seemed to think it could be easily investigated. For what it's worth, I'm going to school to be a mechanic and I took transmissions last semester, so complex technical analyses shouldn't be over my head. If anybody can find exploded diagrams of this particular manual transaxle or even provide the model name/code, it would be helpful. So far google searches are fruitless. It isn't the same 5-speed out of a Chevy Tracker, is it?
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Jan 16, 2017 23:55
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drat Bananas posted:I was pretty sure we had them rotated about a year ago as part of one of those seasonal-checkup procedures where they do a big checklist of things for one coupon price. But... evidence seems to contradict that, so I guess not. Aside from the discussion that has already occurred - how did you learn your fronts were bald? Tires are such an easy thing to inspect that it shouldn't be any great surprise that "oh your tires are bald", since they should've hit the wear bars ages ago. How worn are your rear tires? Be realistic here, if they're at 4/32" tread you might as well just replace them at the same time if you aren't absolutely scrounging every last penny right now.
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Jan 16, 2017 23:59
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TheFrailNinja posted:For what it's worth, I'm going to school to be a mechanic and I took transmissions last semester, so complex technical analyses shouldn't be over my head. If anybody can find exploded diagrams of this particular manual transaxle or even provide the model name/code, it would be helpful. So far google searches are fruitless. It isn't the same 5-speed out of a Chevy Tracker, is it? Here, have a factory service manual. It's for a 2008, but should be similar. Table of contents is linked too, so you can click on the section you need. There's exploded diagrams for the manual transmission if you scroll far enough into the manual transmission section. It looks like it has a cable operated shifter, so it's possible the cables may be binding up. I have no idea how much the SX4 would be related to the Tracker mechanically - the Tracker was a rebadged Grand Vitara. Unfortunately a quick glance through that FSM I linked didn't reveal a model # for the gearbox. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 00:23 on Jan 17, 2017 |
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Jan 17, 2017 00:14
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Mr. Wiggles posted:Yeah, if I could find one small enough that wasn't a zillion dollars. No problem with a a turbine. I mean, I can think of some possible ways to hack something together that MAY work, but I highly doubt any are flight certified. If it needs to be in commercial production *BUT* you don't need a NEW/flight rated one, an APU may be your best bet and just source a retired/over hours production one. Otherwise... a Roton RT600EFI-58hp (Gas/AvGas) or RT600HFE-56hp (JP5/JP8/JET A1) This will quickly get into a size/efficiency/cost fight no matter how you look at it.
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Jan 17, 2017 04:02
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Right. No aircraft certification needed. Probably running in a constant rpm situation to power a generator in a series hybrid system. The Abrams runs a rotary secondary APU, but it's only 30hp so that won't work.
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Jan 17, 2017 06:55
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Godholio posted:ABS only became mandatory in the US in 2013. Wow... that really explains a lot. I was sitting here wondering "Why are all those modern cars sliding like they don't have ABS, when my old lovely Carisma from 98 and it didn't lock up even on sheet ice. ".
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Jan 17, 2017 09:32
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IOwnCalculus posted:Aside from the discussion that has already occurred - how did you learn your fronts were bald? Tires are such an easy thing to inspect that it shouldn't be any great surprise that "oh your tires are bald", since they should've hit the wear bars ages ago. I took it in for an oil change and the guy checking me in pointed it out. I'm embarrassed to say I don't really inspect my car too often since it is so new and everything seems to operate fine. It passed safety inspection last summer so not much has crossed my mind other than the oil change sticker in the windshield coming due soon. I don't know how to measure tread but the guy at the tire place didn't seem too concerned with them. I requested they move the back ones to the front and put the new ones on back according to this thread's advice. They also balanced all 4 and apparently I get free rotations for the life of the 2 new tires so I will be more diligent with checking and rotating from now on since it's free.
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Jan 17, 2017 18:59
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Battery/alternator question: I don't drive my car a whole lot but I want to make sure that when I do, I'm giving the alternator enough time to recharge the battery. What voltages should I be looking for to make sure that it's getting enough charge? I have Torque and watch both voltages (battery and alternator) but I don't know what I should be looking for.
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Jan 17, 2017 21:46
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drat Bananas posted:I don't know how to measure tread but the guy at the tire place didn't seem too concerned with them. I requested they move the back ones to the front and put the new ones on back according to this thread's advice. They also balanced all 4 and apparently I get free rotations for the life of the 2 new tires so I will be more diligent with checking and rotating from now on since it's free. All you need to do is look at them:  You can use a coin for a point of reference but you can ballpark it enough using those wear bars. These bars are raised 2/32 (which is considered fully worn, but would still not look "bald") off of the bottom of the grooves in the tire, and now you've got a new set on the rear to see just how deep they are when new. If there's still a lot of tread above the wear bars, you're fine, but if the wear bars are almost as tall as everything around them, you're ready for new tires soon.
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Jan 17, 2017 22:05
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If anyone was curious, Discount Tire took care of the valve stem replacement for free 
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Jan 17, 2017 22:53
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two_beer_bishes posted:Battery/alternator question: I don't drive my car a whole lot but I want to make sure that when I do, I'm giving the alternator enough time to recharge the battery. What voltages should I be looking for to make sure that it's getting enough charge? I have Torque and watch both voltages (battery and alternator) but I don't know what I should be looking for. Two voltages you need to worry about - 13.8 (+/- a few tenths depending on load) with the engine on, and above 12 within 30 minutes of turning the engine off.
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Jan 17, 2017 23:48
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IOwnCalculus posted:All you need to do is look at them: Belts aren't even showing, come on...
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Jan 18, 2017 01:36
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GobiasIndustries posted:If anyone was curious, Discount Tire took care of the valve stem replacement for free Discount has awesome customer service, and despite my issues with the CEO's politics, it's the only place I go for tires.
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Jan 18, 2017 01:55
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Geoj posted:Two voltages you need to worry about - 13.8 (+/- a few tenths depending on load) with the engine on, and above 12 within 30 minutes of turning the engine off. Thanks!
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Jan 18, 2017 04:44
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So I'm looking to get some 100k service done on my 2004 Corolla. I'm seeing Engine coolant replacement, spark plugs, cabin air filter, air filter, timing belt. What else should I look at that I probably missed on the way to 100k? Some hoses or some such other doodads I suppose.
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Jan 19, 2017 06:38
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See if you can get them to look at wear items in your suspension.
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Jan 19, 2017 06:45
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Is spraying starter fluid to find vacuum leaks as bad an idea as it sounds? I have mental images of me and/or the engine bay in flames. Is there a good trick to it otherwise?
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Jan 19, 2017 18:54
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A slow stream of gas out of a propane torch run along vacuum lines is safer.
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Jan 19, 2017 18:55
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Or make a crack pipe...Err smoke tester https://youtu.be/FFlyAqiYMro
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Jan 19, 2017 19:59
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Christobevii3 posted:Or make a crack pipe...Err smoke tester This is actually loving genius. Idk about AC lines but vacuum lines should be fine to have charcoal dust in them right?
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Jan 19, 2017 23:04
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My truck has ~237k miles on it and it's been about 12k since I last changed the oil... I'm thinking change it and run something cheap for about a thousand miles, then change and run my regular oil (10w30 Castrol high mileage) just to get any possible gunk out. Should I do anything else? I usually change it at 5,000, fwiw.
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Jan 19, 2017 23:26
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:This is actually loving genius. It's easier 1) to put two lines going through the lid, rather than drilling glass, 2)to just plug a crappy cigarillo with a plastic tip into the tube inside the jar (The free end of the rubber tube with the cigarillo on one end gets plugged into the intake) and 3) to just blow air from your lungs through the (other) tube. e: or if you're a smoker, just take one tube, plug one end into the intake and blow smoke into the other end. joat mon fucked around with this message at 23:50 on Jan 19, 2017 |
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Jan 19, 2017 23:47
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QuarkMartial posted:My truck has ~237k miles on it and it's been about 12k since I last changed the oil... Just go back to changing every 5k
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Jan 20, 2017 00:47
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 Anyone know what wheels these are from, or if they're aftermarket? The car is a 2011 CTS with the 3.0, but they don't match any of the wheels offered that year. They look real similar to Cadillac's wheels of the era, but I haven't found anything that matches them yet.  That's what was offered (not counting the CTS-V options).
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Jan 20, 2017 05:40
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