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NPR Journalizard posted:You could if you wanted to, but im pretty sure you would need a crane to lift it when you are done. ilkhan fucked around with this message at 08:28 on Jan 19, 2017 |
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Jan 19, 2017 08:15
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Skippy Granola posted:Popular Mechanics last issue had some reviews of planers and they really liked the one by Ridgid. I'd grab one myself if I had any space for I was tempted by a ridgid planer once but read some nightmare stories about the repairs in Canada. Apparently the parts are tough to come by and repair shops few and far between? At least here on the west coast
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Jan 19, 2017 14:01
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Yeah, I think you have to ship them back to the manufacturer and do a whole rigamarole. But that's true of any of these consumer brands, basically - it's a $220 planer and therefore disposable.
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Jan 19, 2017 16:06
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The DeWalt 735 is pretty much the standard "best answer" to the "what lunchbox planer should I buy" question. The other two options I'd consider are the Ridgid and the Makita. I skipped the Ridgid due to the aforementioned repair horror stories.
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Jan 19, 2017 16:23
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I've been using the DeWalt 735 for 2 years now and love it. Absolutely zero complaints.
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Jan 19, 2017 18:05
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Thanks! Looks pretty good; I'll put it on my watchlist for now, my next couple projects won't need it but I'm definitely going to need one soon.
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Jan 19, 2017 19:38
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Can anyone identify this tree? Some kind of evergreen, tree's about 25' tall, presumably a somewhat shallow root structure, and it's leaning on my fence so I'm gonna have to get it taken down. There's about 4-5' of reasonably straight trunk that might be fun to try to make something out of if the wood's at all suitable to woodworking.
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Jan 19, 2017 22:56
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Starting up the cyclone project again, got a saw for the occasion. It cut the sheet metal like butter, it's leagues beyond the crappy Black & Decker I bought 2nd hand for 10 bucks. Initial forming of the cone, 0.8mm thick sheet metal. Not galvanized, they did not have any in the size I required and I didn't want to go back empty handed, I suppose I can paint it or clear coat it, it's not going to be outside. 
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Jan 19, 2017 23:07
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Can anyone identify this tree? Some sort of Thuja/arborvitae I think.
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Jan 19, 2017 23:51
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People were asking about wood youtubers they like. This guy isn't a hand-tools dude, but I enjoy his production and he makes stuff that simultaneously seems very nice and yet is approachable to me as a novice: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RWJJpAcMcAE
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Jan 20, 2017 02:38
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Hubis posted:People were asking about wood youtubers they like. This guy isn't a hand-tools dude, but I enjoy his production and he makes stuff that simultaneously seems very nice and yet is approachable to me as a novice: I did not know Dave Grohl was a woodworker.
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Jan 20, 2017 03:59
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Flattened Spoon posted:Some sort of Thuja/arborvitae I think. I'd agree that it's an arborvitae. Does the sap smell piney/fruity?
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Jan 20, 2017 19:09
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I purchased some DMT continuous diamond plates and the leather strop and green compound that someone in here recommended to me. Now, my question is which side of the leather + compound do I use: the rough side or the smooth side. I had planned on just gluing it down to a piece of scrap.
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Jan 20, 2017 20:20
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Quick clamp and saw questions - I spun through the home depot this morning on my way in to work and they had 3 or 4 panel saws, 15 or 20 inches and about 8 TPI. I'd like to get a cheap induction-hardened saw just to get started while I save for a real panel saw, is there any noticeable difference between the home depot / lowes items? And is the added cost of buying parallel clamps like this: https://www.amazon.com/Bessey-KRJR18-18-Inch-Parallel-Clamp/dp/B0057PWI8A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484940198&sr=8-1&keywords=k+body+revo+jr worth it over something like these? : https://www.amazon.com/Bessey-GSCC2...pf_rd_i=desktop
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Jan 20, 2017 20:23
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MetaJew posted:I purchased some DMT continuous diamond plates and the leather strop and green compound that someone in here recommended to me. Now, my question is which side of the leather + compound do I use: the rough side or the smooth side. I had planned on just gluing it down to a piece of scrap. I used the rough side up for some reason I can't remember now and glued it to a piece of scrap wood. It seems to work fine aside from chunks of compound coming up occasionally. Zhent posted:Quick clamp and saw questions - I spun through the home depot this morning on my way in to work and they had 3 or 4 panel saws, 15 or 20 inches and about 8 TPI. I'd like to get a cheap induction-hardened saw just to get started while I save for a real panel saw, is there any noticeable difference between the home depot / lowes items? And is the added cost of buying parallel clamps like this: https://www.amazon.com/Bessey-KRJR18-18-Inch-Parallel-Clamp/dp/B0057PWI8A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484940198&sr=8-1&keywords=k+body+revo+jr worth it over something like these? : https://www.amazon.com/Bessey-GSCC2...pf_rd_i=desktop I'm sure all the big box saws are made in the same factory in China. Real panel saws don't have to be expensive. I've picked up far too many at estate sales for less than :tenbux:. Fixing them up and sharpening is really a lot easier than you might think. An 8 or 10" single cut mill file and a saw file is all you need. Just make sure the plate is reasonably straight without kinks, none of the teeth are missing and the handle isn't cracked. Paul Sellers has good videos on saw sharpening, and he put out a interesting new technique recently using a mini hacksaw to cut a small slot in the gullets, making it easier to sharpen and making the file last longer. Parallel clamps are the nicest, but obviously quite expensive. I use bar clamps from 6" up to 24". Bigger than that and I feel like they have too much flex in the steel bar and not enough clamping force. I have a set of four 48" parallel clamps that I got a good deal on but if I was starting over or needed more clamps over 24" I'd go for the aluminum style Paul Sellers with his modifications: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AyKiGmRq3wY
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Jan 20, 2017 20:53
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Strongly agreed on the saws. I got a Disston D-7 for $26 and a D-8 for $33 shipped. Saw files are less than ten bucks each. There's no need to save up. I use the smooth side on my strop. My research at the time had no solid conclusion, which is synonymous with it makes no difference.
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Jan 20, 2017 21:20
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MetaJew posted:I purchased some DMT continuous diamond plates and the leather strop and green compound that someone in here recommended to me. Now, my question is which side of the leather + compound do I use: the rough side or the smooth side. I had planned on just gluing it down to a piece of scrap. Cpt.Wacky posted:I used the rough side up for some reason I can't remember now and glued it to a piece of scrap wood. It seems to work fine aside from chunks of compound coming up occasionally. The only leather I had laying about when I made a strop was suede and it seems to be working fine. Just glued to a chunk of 1x4 that was laying about at the time. Would probably be a good idea to make sure the board is flat, I sure hope I did that.
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Jan 20, 2017 21:22
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Going on the record to say there is nothing inherently wrong with induction hardened saws when you are getting started. There doesn't seem to be a big quality difference until you get into the $40 saws from Bahco, but at that point you may want to get an already restored Disston off of eBay.
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Jan 20, 2017 22:21
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Hardware store saws are why many woodworkers hate hand tools. They are really good for cutting laminate flooring.
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Jan 20, 2017 22:34
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An induction-hardened handsaw will do the job adequately. My only problem is I feel really wasteful recycling an otherwise serviceable tool. Or shipping it to the manufacturer for resharpening. Plus it is easy to sharpen a saw and it feels really satisfying to know I can maintain my equipment without relying on anyone
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Jan 20, 2017 22:46
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A Paul Sellers recommendation for an inexpensive panel saw that is sharpenable is https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0043YN9CK/ref=pe_385721_148671991_TE_item
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Jan 20, 2017 23:57
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Suggestions on getting lumber that isn't at home depot? I might need some longer pieces of s4s 2x2 oak (or maple). HD has 3' but I need about 5'.
ilkhan fucked around with this message at 00:27 on Jan 21, 2017 |
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Jan 21, 2017 00:23
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ilkhan posted:Suggestions on getting lumber that isn't at home depot? I might need some longer pieces of s4s 2x2 oak (or maple). HD has 3' but I need about 5'. Try a local sawmill or hardwood dealer and see if they'll mill it for you. It'll be a lot cheaper than from HD too.
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Jan 21, 2017 00:33
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Any recommendations for specific brands or manufacturers of japanese handsaws? I really love my little z-saw Dozuki, which is basically my favorite saw right now, and I'm thinking I'll just keep on the JP bandwagon for now.
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Jan 21, 2017 01:04
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Recent storms got one of the trees on my property leaning against the fence, so I got the tree taken down and rescued some of the wood to play with.  The tree's apparently a Leyland Cypress, not a tree I'd heard of before. The wood is probably pretty lovely wood honestly, but dammit it grew on my property and I want to make something from it.  Some short straight branches to practice on. The shortest of these is 2' long and about 5" in diameter.  Cool end grain from a piece of crotch wood. I have no idea what I would do with this.  Trying my hand at milling on my 14" bandsaw, with the aforementioned 2'-long branch. I freehanded a reasonably straight line to create a mostly-flat face, then ran it through again at 90 degrees to that face to give me a straight reference face. Then I cut a 2" slab and a 1.5" board.  I mean, the "slab" is only 4" wide. But they look pretty decent. I tried again with one of the longer branches, but it twisted a bit while making the first cut, so those boards aren't as nice (their faces aren't quite parallel).  This is the trunk. 5' long, 12" diameter. I'm really not sure how I'm going to mill that on my dinky bandsaw with a max 7" resaw depth, but I'm going to try! Step 1 will be figuring out a jig I can use to run a probably 100+-pound hunk of wood through the bandsaw without losing control of it.I think that means a sled is called for. And maybe some kind of straps or something.
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Jan 21, 2017 02:40
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Cpt.Wacky posted:I'm sure all the big box saws are made in the same factory in China. Real panel saws don't have to be expensive. I've picked up far too many at estate sales for less than :tenbux:. Fixing them up and sharpening is really a lot easier than you might think. An 8 or 10" single cut mill file and a saw file is all you need. Just make sure the plate is reasonably straight without kinks, none of the teeth are missing and the handle isn't cracked. Paul Sellers has good videos on saw sharpening, and he put out a interesting new technique recently using a mini hacksaw to cut a small slot in the gullets, making it easier to sharpen and making the file last longer. wormil posted:Hardware store saws are why many woodworkers hate hand tools. They are really good for cutting laminate flooring. Skippy Granola posted:An induction-hardened handsaw will do the job adequately. My only problem is I feel really wasteful recycling an otherwise serviceable tool. Or shipping it to the manufacturer for resharpening. Thanks everyone - it's definitely my plan to pick up some older saws on eBay and clean them up / learn how to sharpen them, but starting from nothing there is a substantial learning / restoring curve and I've come to the conclusion that if I try and buy old everything and restore it all, it'll be another year before I'm doing anything productive. I'm currently trolling eBay for older Stanley chisels and sharpening / cleaning those up, after which I'll probably move to saws. Plus it looks like you need a vice to hold the saw while you sharpen it.
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Jan 21, 2017 03:23
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ColdPie posted:As practice for my toolchest build, I did my first ever dovetails tonight with some poorly-squared scrap wood. Turned out all right! Not too difficult. I had to pare down the tails a little to get them to fit onto the pins; I think I put the saw kerf on the wrong side of my pin marking lines. I also wasn't very happy with how the chisel cut out the waste. The end grain between the pins split quite a lot and the surface didn't end up anywhere near square. Going to do some research on that. Otherwise, just some gaps from imperfectly cut lines, nothing practice won't fix. I think those look pretty fantastic for a first attempt. I'll be quite happy the first time I try it if they look like that.
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Jan 21, 2017 04:12
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Zhent posted:Thanks everyone - it's definitely my plan to pick up some older saws on eBay and clean them up / learn how to sharpen them, but starting from nothing there is a substantial learning / restoring curve and I've come to the conclusion that if I try and buy old everything and restore it all, it'll be another year before I'm doing anything productive. I'm currently trolling eBay for older Stanley chisels and sharpening / cleaning those up, after which I'll probably move to saws. Plus it looks like you need a vice to hold the saw while you sharpen it. That's a perfectly reasonable position. I was coming at it more as first buying a cheapo disposable saw and then later restore a cheap Disston, versus saving up hundreds of dollars for a premium new saw. The saw vise isn't necessary, assuming you have a bench vise of some sort already. Make what's called a chock. Drill a hole in a 2x2 and then rip down to it from one end. The hole keeps it from splitting the rest of the way. Stick your saw in the kerf and then clamp that in your bench vise. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E06aewpmSyQ
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Jan 21, 2017 04:17
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I bought some rough cut ash, how dry does it have to get before I can start working it? The meter I've got reads 11% and all the acclimatized wood I've got reads as 6%, which is as low as the meter goes.
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Jan 21, 2017 04:25
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:... but dammit it grew on my property and I want to make something from it. I can respect that. I saved some of every tree I've taken down even though most of them aren't very interesting.
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Jan 21, 2017 04:55
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After using the Paul Sellers bench for a while I think I'm going to officially say that I don't like it. His system of using clamps probably works great for him but I find myself wanting holdfasts and stuff like this constantly. C- would not make bench again.
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Jan 22, 2017 02:09
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Tres Burritos posted:After using the Paul Sellers bench for a while I think I'm going to officially say that I don't like it. His system of using clamps probably works great for him but I find myself wanting holdfasts and stuff like this constantly. C- would not make bench again. Tried to warn folks repeatedly, got shouted down. Sellers has a habit of tripling down on mistakes. He sees one shortcut and saves an hour and then pays for it every day for the rest of the life of the bench. I haven't used my tail vise for anything significant in over a year. Planing stop, does feet, and holdfasts solve all holding problems for me on the top of the bench, and the leg vise, sliding deadman, and holdfasts solve all the issues at the front of the bench. If you make an English bench you'll have an apron rather than a deadman but everything else will be the same. GEMorris fucked around with this message at 03:13 on Jan 22, 2017 |
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Jan 22, 2017 03:10
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The quick release vise is cool though.
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Jan 22, 2017 03:15
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Tres Burritos posted:The quick release vise is cool though. Yeah, leg vise is just my personal preference, and if you build an English style bench using a quick release vise in the face position would require a good bit of work, but on any slab-top bench like a Roubo the quick release vises work just fine (as long as they are flush mounted dear lord Jesus in heaven).
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Jan 22, 2017 03:21
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Tres Burritos posted:After using the Paul Sellers bench for a while I think I'm going to officially say that I don't like it. His system of using clamps probably works great for him but I find myself wanting holdfasts and stuff like this constantly. C- would not make bench again. Can't you drill holes and still use a hold fast? If your bench is too thin, can you glue a board onto the bottom. It's basically the same as all these British/Nicholson benches that are in style now.
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Jan 22, 2017 04:00
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After looking at the sizes of various holdfasts and reading this I've come to the conclusion that the well-board going down the middle of the bench makes retrofitting holes probably a lovely idea. They'd all be too close to the edge, or on the other side of the bench.
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Jan 22, 2017 04:31
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Why not make best use of what you have? Until you make a replacement top or whatever the plan is. In the meantime you can use hold fasts and learn where you would like them to be.
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Jan 22, 2017 05:24
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Well my dad just told me he has a bunch of 1x6 oak boards I didn't know about that he got for free. I think that has made the decision on some of my wood choice for my workbench build. He also has some Pecan slabs that I can cut up to make my tool chest. I may finally be getting organized and have a functional workflow. I can't wait until I head out to the ranch on Tues so I can start laying this all out.
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Jan 22, 2017 05:41
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Tres Burritos posted:After using the Paul Sellers bench for a while I think I'm going to officially say that I don't like it. His system of using clamps probably works great for him but I find myself wanting holdfasts and stuff like this constantly. C- would not make bench again. Building one myself and I'm already planning on drilling holdfast holes. I think I can retrofit them in just fine. A wagon vise would be pretty nice though, and I am missing that because I'm pretty sure I couldn't retrofit it in super nicely. In the end I'll use this for a while and then build a new one and uh...do something with this. Tear it apart for pieces?
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Jan 22, 2017 07:02
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I love having a twin screw vice that runs the width of my bench as an end vice. It serves double duty though, I use it for end vice things, and also for dovetailing. I've got 18" between screws so it works great. Shop time has been slow lately, but I'm very close to being finished a dresser and bookshelf, one more coat of finish and some wax. After those are out of the shop I have 3 staked pieces of furniture I will be building. A coffee table, a corner table and a stool, I'm looking forward to be able to try out my tapered reamer and tapered tenon cutter. It's surprising how little wood staked furniture needs, the entire corner table will be from a single board. Meow Meow Meow fucked around with this message at 13:50 on Jan 22, 2017 |
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Jan 22, 2017 13:43
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