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Deathlove posted:We played with two (and only one character a piece) and it was great. It'll be fine.
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Jan 20, 2017 16:24
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Just a quick Mage Knight lost Legion rules confirmation, I'm not sure I'm reading this the right way. In fights where I fight more than one enemy, or an enemy hits me more than once at a time, those multiple attacks, am I allowed to group them and block them cumukatively or separate. Say two enemies hit me for 4, can I block with a block 6 and 2 sideways cards? If I Hydra hits me 2/2/2, can I block that with Block 6?
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Jan 20, 2017 16:36
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angel opportunity posted:I'm ready for new solo challenges silvergoose posted:No apologies needed! I'm just eagerly awaiting.  I promise I'll get to it next week y'all!Now I'm really thinking I might call in on Tuesday...
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Jan 20, 2017 16:37
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Fat Turkey posted:In fights where I fight more than one enemy, or an enemy hits me more than once at a time, those multiple attacks, am I allowed to group them and block them cumukatively or separate. No. You can group enemy Armor - bringing along all the different resistances for the ride - but you can never group enemy Attacks. Similarly, you also cannot use a single source of Block 4 (e.g. Powered Determination) and split it in half to block 2 Attack 2s - you would need two different sources of Block, one for each attack. Basically, treat them as totally separate battles.
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Jan 20, 2017 16:40
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Johnny Truant posted:
Also my "nooooooooo"'s were mostly half quotes from a comic strip where someone dies, their colleague is on a call, says "yeah they're dead" and the comm officer who's a fanboy can't help himself and says "nooooooooo".
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Jan 20, 2017 16:56
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Megasabin posted:I really enjoy Food Chain Magnate, and would like to consider other Splotter Games/ Games that get bunched in with them as heavy weight. Indonesia was reprinted, which is why you're seeing it again. Antiquity, also by Splotter, should be getting a reprint this year I believe. R&B is a logistics/resource conversion game where you start off with some donkeys, geese, lumber, and stone, and eventually build up a network of roads and production buildings so you can eventually make point items. The real trick of the game though is that you own nothing except your transporters and the items that they're directly holding. Anyone can use anyone else's production buildings or take goods that are just lying around, and you can also build walls that other players can't pass through without knocking down. Much like FCM and other Splotter games, it's essentially zero randomness, and with a level of antagonism not seen in most Euros. The game is somewhat fiddly, as you'll often have multiple stacks of goods on the same hex that need to be differentiated sitting around, but I don't think it's unmanageable. I also like that the game comes with a transparent acrylic sheet that you overlay on the map tiles, which you draw the roads and bridges on with a marker as you build them. Oddly whimsical yet practical.
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Jan 20, 2017 16:57
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T-Bone posted:Ehhh not really that I know of. I have the hockey hall of fame game and it's as bad as it sounds. Strat-O-Matic is generally well regarded but it's pretty bare bones, especially for someone with experience in fantasy hockey. I can't even think of many sports themed games that are good. Baseball Highlights, Thunder Alley, Winner's Circle, maybe Flamme Rougue. This is American football and not hockey but guild ball has been getting great reviews and Techno Bowl comes out this year and looks promising.
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Jan 20, 2017 17:25
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We were talking last night about foam core and Mage Knight, and I actually just finished with a first attempt at it. It turned out to be a lot easier than I was expecting and I got all of the base game and Lost Legion into the box with the lid closing all the way. The primary goal was to go from "Hey I want to play Mage Knight" to having the game completely set up and going in <2 minutes and this definitely gets the job done. I used this set of tutorials: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3hfKaDX2P2k And ended up here:   Lessons learned: the duller your blade gets the more likely you are to start tearing the actual foam between the papers. When that happens just go ahead and break off the blade because your glue won't have anything to stick to and you're wasting your time. I used a full piece of 24x36. I used mostly regular clear Elmer's glue, because we had it lying around, but I did use high-test super glue for spot fixes because sometimes the Elmer's just did not want to form a bond. Mysteries. Another good lesson that comes from my woodworking background is to minimize how often you use a ruler. Measure as much as you can off something else you've already done. Once you get your bottom piece cut, that's the last time you should use your ruler for the rest of that piece. This is a big part of why you have a hard time finding "plans" online for foam core inserts. It's really just a ton of eyeballing, physical spacing, and measuring off what you've already cut. I'm going to live with this setup for a while, but I'm already itching to redo how the cards are stored. Right now the characters are all held in individual sandwich baggies and just laid on top of the cards however they fit in there, but I think I can do the cards laid out on their sides and still have the whole thing be easily set up and torn down. Right now the thumb holes are too narrow and don't go down all the way, so getting the whole stack out to shuffle is more work than I'd like for it to be. Having them all lined up on their sides would still let me pull the cards insert out, still let me "draw" from the top of the deck, and maybe save enough space for a better solution than the character baggies.
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Jan 20, 2017 17:27
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Japanese Dating Sim posted:Does Pandemic Legacy suffer if you don't play with a full group of four players? Right now it looks like we'll be playing with three. Me and my wife played just us but with two characters each and it what the best gaming experience we have ever had.
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Jan 20, 2017 18:14
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Huxley posted:Another good lesson that comes from my woodworking background is to minimize how often you use a ruler. If you have a wood shop why are you making board game inserts out of lovely foam? You should have custom wooden boxes for all your games!
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Jan 20, 2017 19:36
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Important addendum to earlier review of Conan: my friend informs me he is bad at teaching and rules-reading and there is in fact a rule giving prices for the respawning of monsters. I therefore withdraw that criticism but remain unimpressed with the lack of prices on characters and gear (maybe he will tell me he missed that part too). My overall grade of the game remains a C, edging more towards C+.
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Jan 20, 2017 19:51
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Is there a match-making thread for online games via boardgamearena or whatever, and if so could someone point me in its direction? I don't think that would fall under the umbrella of a PbP style game, but maybe I'm wrong. Anyway, is anyone interested in playing a turn based game of Food Chain Magnate via boardgamecore? I have never played before and would like to give it a try to see if I want to pick up a copy.
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Jan 20, 2017 20:03
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Stelas posted:No. You can group enemy Armor - bringing along all the different resistances for the ride - but you can never group enemy Attacks. Similarly, you also cannot use a single source of Block 4 (e.g. Powered Determination) and split it in half to block 2 Attack 2s - you would need two different sources of Block, one for each attack. Basically, treat them as totally separate battles. Thanks for confirming. I haven't played MK since the summer and going through the rules I couldn't remember whether I did this right or not. I assume I did, but best to confirm. Huxley posted:We were talking last night about foam core and Mage Knight, and I actually just finished with a first attempt at it. It turned out to be a lot easier than I was expecting and I got all of the base game and Lost Legion into the box with the lid closing all the way. The primary goal was to go from "Hey I want to play Mage Knight" to having the game completely set up and going in <2 minutes and this definitely gets the job done. And this reminds me I need to get on with my own project for building the box. I don't think I'll do the same, but I'll take a look and see if it inspires me of another approach. Yours is looking good though!
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Jan 20, 2017 20:04
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Honestly unless you just have to have Roads and Boats, I'd move on to The Colonists. Same kind of game play but much more strategy.
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Jan 20, 2017 20:22
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Rutibex posted:If you have a wood shop why are you making board game inserts out of lovely foam? You should have custom wooden boxes for all your games!  My dad also owns a giant CNC laser-cutting he bought cheap off that can be used to engrave and cut wood (up to 1/8" thick) and I just pop in a cad or illustrator file and it does its magic. I made a Catan obsessed friend a wooden board that ended up looking like this (but not quite as good cause I painted the titles and the paint job didn't work out as nice).  e: found a WIP of mine before I ruined it, but you can see some uneven burn marks and such but otherwise was fine  Haven't had any inspiration to use it for anything else yet or other games but I'm sure I'll think of something. If anyone has any ideas for something that would be neat to engrave and cut, let me know. Biggest problem is kinda hard to find good (big sheets) of 1/8" wood and the one I used was a little warped so the engraving was a little uneven but it was more of a spur of the moment idea. I'm down to work with you on creating Illustrator/CAD file for design and stuff if it's a game that would benefit from being wood-ized, but I'm actually terrible drawer so I'd mostly just show you how which line-colors designate different depths or full-cut and stuff. Xaris fucked around with this message at 21:15 on Jan 20, 2017 |
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Jan 20, 2017 20:49
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Xaris posted:My dad also owns a giant CNC laser-cutting he bought cheap off that can be used to engrave and cut wood (up to 1/8" thick) and I just pop in a cad or illustrator file and it does its magic. I made a Catan obsessed friend a wooden board that ended up looking like this (but not quite as good cause I painted the titles and the paint job didn't work out as nice). Holy poo poo that's loving awesome.
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Jan 20, 2017 20:58
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That flaming skull for the desert makes me want a Mad Max style wargame in the scope of catan. Edit: will trade sheep for guzzoline.
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Jan 20, 2017 21:36
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Xaris posted:I wish I could totally sperg out and do this. my dream is to get a house with a shed or garage I can just setup to do woodworking. But for now I'm stuck paying $1800 for a small 1br apartment with my gf and dog Friend you do not need a dad or a garage or a CNC machine to make those things! You could make them quite easily with a sharpie, a Dremel, and some patience. You can even do it in a one bedroom apartment, so long as you hate your neighbors  I recently bought this, in the hopes of moving beyond cardboard. It was $50 used at a pawn shop, and with it I should be able to carve my own Meeples and game boards. No longer will only Caverna players have the superior Pumpkin Tokens!  
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Jan 20, 2017 22:52
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SmellOfPetroleum posted:That flaming skull for the desert makes me want a Mad Max style wargame in the scope of catan. Username and post combo check out. Really cool looking board though, nice work on it. Got my first playthrough of Scythe in last night. I got stomped by my GF who nearly doubled my money. I accidentally did everything and nothing worked. I was Saxony and she was Rusviet and instead of me being militant and aggressive I just played passively and let her steamroll me. In addition I can think of a few other things I did wrong but in general I really liked it and more importantly, she loved it, so it's going to be going on the 10x10 as far as I can tell. The components are gorgeous and the turns play really quickly, which is a plus. There's also this incredible sense of pleasure from using your oil to upgrade an action and not only make a top row action better but a bottom one too, complete with actual visual/tactile representation of the upgrade. And even though I didn't use them I like the hidden power-dial business when getting into fights. To clarify, I get a combat card for each mech and character I'm using in a fight, correct? And since there is no limit to the number of units I can have in a space I could theoretically be throwing down five combat cards for a single skirmish? I thought it was a bit scummy though to open the game and have the manual explicitly state that I shouldn't pay attention to some extra symbols because those are for
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Jan 20, 2017 23:00
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FulsomFrank posted:I thought it was a bit scummy though to open the game and have the manual explicitly state that I shouldn't pay attention to some extra symbols because those are for lol thanks for telling me about this so I can never buy the game.
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Jan 20, 2017 23:02
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FulsomFrank posted:And even though I didn't use them I like the hidden power-dial business when getting into fights. To clarify, I get a combat card for each mech and character I'm using in a fight, correct? And since there is no limit to the number of units I can have in a space I could theoretically be throwing down five combat cards for a single skirmish? Re: the combat cards, yes that's right. Also just a reminder that how many cards you HAVE is public info (just like how much power you have) but just like how much power you spend, how many cards you commit to the fight (from 0 to your max) is secret until the reveal. I got the board extension for the back to make the game huge-r but I never use it. It makes it too big for my table even though I like the bigger size. Frankly the "normal" size is not lacking in any way whatsoever.
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Jan 20, 2017 23:26
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FulsomFrank posted:To clarify, I get a combat card for each mech and character I'm using in a fight, correct? And since there is no limit to the number of units I can have in a space I could theoretically be throwing down five combat cards for a single skirmish? Yes and theoretically yes. If you somehow managed to shove all four of your mechs and your character into an opponent's space before the end of your turn (not sure how you'd accomplish this with movement rules) or if your opponent decided to attack a single space where you had stacked every single one of your combat units, you'd get to play five cards.
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Jan 20, 2017 23:29
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FulsomFrank posted:I thought it was a bit scummy though to open the game and have the manual explicitly state that I shouldn't pay attention to some extra symbols because those are for This isn't at all like scummy zero-day DLC. Those extra components would drive the price of the base game up significantly (10 minis, 62 wooden tokens, 4 double-thick player mats, 6 more Automa cards, and a small sheet of counters). I don't have the giant-size board extension and have never felt the need for it. Would it be less "scummy" to have the back of the board be solid black and sell an entirely different board separately?
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Jan 20, 2017 23:34
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FulsomFrank posted:I thought it was a bit scummy though to open the game and have the manual explicitly state that I shouldn't pay attention to some extra symbols because those are for The green and purple starting areas do have an effect even without the expansion, though, as one of the Crimean player's mechs allows them to move to the home base of any nonactive player, and Togawa and Albion's bases aren't separated from the Factory by a river. The arrangement of the tiles in Albion's starting area is also important to the Nordic player since he can swim his workers over there from the very beginning of the game.
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Jan 20, 2017 23:40
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The expansion races don't feel essential, to be honest. They play vastly different to the base races, but not in a way that favours first time players. Trimming them out to bring down the price was a smart move.
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Jan 20, 2017 23:44
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The expansion factions weren't even fully developed for the initial release it was more, ok we want to do an expansion at some point so let's design two extra logos and place them in these positions.
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Jan 20, 2017 23:47
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Scythe's expansion makes sense to me because the base game was already $130 something. And as a player with a dedicated group of 4 I don't want to pay even $20 more for content that'll rarely be used. Now let me tell you about High Frontier! The "expanded game" rules are built into the rulebook mixed together with the "basic game" with literally half the map leading off into space unknown. It was sold for like $10 in a ziploc bag and was just the other half of the board with maybe 9 cards. I don't know why it was sold separate considering it was written in a way that you'd want to play it by default. It would be like buying Through the Ages and only getting Age A!
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Jan 21, 2017 00:17
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al-azad posted:Scythe's expansion makes sense to me because the base game was already $130 something. Huh? It was like $60 at CSI.
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Jan 21, 2017 00:19
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Chomp8645 posted:lol thanks for telling me about this so I can never buy the game. It's not an issue. Scythe is complete in itself; the expansion material was included in the base game for future proofing. And as others have said, the expanded board is nice but not strictly necessary - we've only once had a problem with an overflowing hex and that was using the upgraded resource tokens. Putting two-thirds of it on the back of the regular board makes the extension cheaper.
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Jan 21, 2017 00:28
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Bottom Liner posted:Huh? It was like $60 at CSI. They are probably referring to one of the collector editions you could kickstart
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Jan 21, 2017 00:45
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Which would certainly not be the base game. The base pledge was $59 and even included extrasquote:Pledge $59 or more Hell even the premium one with metal coins and upgraded resource bits was only $79
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Jan 21, 2017 00:47
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If you think of board game expansions as the kind of DLC where the game's not really complete without it, I guess I can see feeling like you're being strung along if an expansion was being developed along with the base game. But Scythe really is complete as a game without it, you're not missing out on anything having those symbols there instead of blank semi-hexes. Printing the back of the board with part of the 150% bigger map instead of making it black like normal I think is efficient and clever savings, but I guess you could also see it as "well I'm not getting my money's worth because I only have 2/3 of a thing on the back side; I'm missing stuff" 
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Jan 21, 2017 00:49
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al-azad posted:Scythe's expansion makes sense to me because the base game was already $130 something. And as a player with a dedicated group of 4 I don't want to pay even $20 more for content that'll rarely be used. High Frontier seemed more like a case where the full game was absurdly complex so they clumsily chopped it in half to avoid scaring newbies.
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Jan 21, 2017 01:00
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Bottom Liner posted:Huh? It was like $60 at CSI. It was $60 for a hot second before selling out completely. MSRP is $80 and I think they made the right decision not breaking $100 when their target audience is probably 4-5 anyways.
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Jan 21, 2017 01:07
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Mister Sinewave posted:Printing the back of the board with part of the 150% bigger map instead of making it black like normal I think is efficient and clever savings, but I guess you could also see it as "well I'm not getting my money's worth because I only have 2/3 of a thing on the back side; I'm missing stuff" If you're a monumental prick.
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Jan 21, 2017 01:31
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al-azad posted:It was $60 for a hot second before selling out completely. MSRP is $80 and I think they made the right decision not breaking $100 when their target audience is probably 4-5 anyways. But where did you get your $130 base cost figure from? The game never cost that much unless you bought from a reseller and got gipped.
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Jan 21, 2017 01:58
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Foamcore chat! I'm playing Argent today so I get to break out this guy. After unpacking all of everything into the excellent dungeon lords anniversary box I'm feeling to the need to pimp some more inserts, even though this one took me the better part of a day's work all up  you can see what happens with blunt knives along one side of the pawn bin, big sloppy drag and tears instead of clean cuts. More aggressive blade swapping next time Ayn Randi fucked around with this message at 02:04 on Jan 21, 2017 |
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Jan 21, 2017 02:01
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Bottom Liner posted:But where did you get your $130 base cost figure from? The game never cost that much unless you bought from a reseller and got gipped. Legit stores were selling it for that much when it came out. It's like how Food Chain Magnate would never go for MSRP for the first or second print runs even when stores were getting real copies. You can basically expect to get ripped off on a hyped board game even through real channels until CSI/MM/Funagain get their hands on a copy and drive the price down momentarily. al-azad fucked around with this message at 02:26 on Jan 21, 2017 |
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Jan 21, 2017 02:22
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Lorini posted:Honestly unless you just have to have Roads and Boats, I'd move on to The Colonists. Same kind of game play but much more strategy. Is this the thread consensus? I was quite excited to find a copy of Roads & Boats at a local shop, but if a new game is an improvement I won't bother with it.
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Jan 21, 2017 03:47
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al-azad posted:Legit stores were selling it for that much when it came out. It's like how Food Chain Magnate would never go for MSRP for the first or second print runs even when stores were getting real copies. Right, but you were saying that as if it was the cost of the game as set by the publisher, which was absolutely false. All legit buying channels had a price of $59, not more than double that. So saying the price of the game was so high you were glad they cut features is silly when the price you quote is $130 and not the actual $59. And you can expect to get ripped off for anything if you're dumb enough to pay scalper prices instead of either pre-ordering or waiting.
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Jan 21, 2017 03:49
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