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Henrik Zetterberg posted:Any recommendations on an impact wrench and sockets? I just need to swap tires and poo poo, but I like nice tools. If you're just zipping off lug nuts, you can probably save around $100 with a corded driver, otherwise, the rule of thumb is stick to whatever you have battery loyalty for in your kit. If you plan on using it for more than lug nuts, you might want to consider a more compact model. Don't forget a torque wrench to finish off the job.
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Jan 19, 2017 01:23
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Don't forget to at least loosen that poo poo with the car's weight on the wheel, lest you spin the studs out. Ask me how I learned this the hard way, or peruse my posting in this very thread.
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Jan 19, 2017 13:19
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BloodBag posted:Don't forget to at least loosen that poo poo with the car's weight on the wheel, lest you spin the studs out. Ask me how I learned this the hard way, or peruse my posting in this very thread. Solid tip I did not know. Thanks.
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Jan 19, 2017 14:42
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Re: chains and awd. 99.99% of the time they go from chain required on fwd cars to road closed skipping the awd chain stage. Legally, you are supposed to carry them though.
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Jan 19, 2017 16:48
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um excuse me posted:Solid tip I did not know. Thanks. Just break em loose, don't take them off. I hope you know that distinction.
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Jan 19, 2017 18:46
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nm posted:Re: chains and awd. 99.99% of the time they go from chain required on fwd cars to road closed skipping the awd chain stage. Yeah, this is my experience, too. At least in Washington I've never seen an AWD chain-up requirement. It usually goes traction tires required > 2wd chains required > road closed. But you are still required to carry chains with you in your vehicle in wintertime in the mountains, regardless. The whole 2wd chain up thing is a bit dumb and outdated considering how good winter tires are these days, but it has to cater to the lowest common denominator of driver who isn't even aware that their poo poo all-season tires are bald. Not like they are setting up check points and inspecting every vehicle, but you could definitely get hosed on liability if you were to have any sort of incident and were not meeting the letter of the law. I may have skirted the 2wd chain requirement a few times since I've got Blizzaks and chains are awful, but it's definitely making me think pretty hard about AWD in my next vehicle just to be on the right side of the law in the future. Guinness fucked around with this message at 20:07 on Jan 19, 2017 |
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Jan 19, 2017 20:05
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Henrik Zetterberg posted:Any recommendations on an impact wrench and sockets? I just need to swap tires and poo poo, but I like nice tools. I have a smaller Dewalt cordless impact wrench, but really all I do with it is zip the lugnuts off after using a breaker bar to loosen them, and you could just use a speed wrench without much additional effort. When putting the lugnuts back on you should be hand-tightening them first before snugging them with a torque wrench anyway. And on a related note, I'm ready for winter!  The stock tires are basically garbage, I might just get some Michelin Premier A/Ses on the stock rims in Spring.
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Jan 20, 2017 23:38
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Cool, thanks for the tip! What torque should the lugs be put on at?
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Jan 21, 2017 01:01
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Henrik Zetterberg posted:Cool, thanks for the tip! My '17 Forester is 89 ft-lb, my '06 Impreza is about 72 ft-lb (though the manual is really weird about he number, so that's something I arrived at via the internet). So it varies wildly. I'm no mechanic, but I think the important thing (provided you're not way low or way high) is that it's consistent, so you don't put uneven stress on the rotor.
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Jan 21, 2017 02:58
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tetrapyloctomy posted:My '17 Forester is 89 ft-lb, my '06 Impreza is about 72 ft-lb. I usually go with 75-80.
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Jan 21, 2017 03:20
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I have that exact impact with the hog ring instead of the detent. It's total overkill for lugs. DCF890B is more appropriate for the lugs. Check your car's manual for torque specs, but generally around 75-80 ft-lbs.
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Jan 21, 2017 04:22
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Yeah after some research I went with the hog rings instead.
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Jan 21, 2017 10:06
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jamal posted:And they have basically the same hubs, wheels, wheel studs and lug nuts. Anyone here grease their lug studs and undertorque? That seems to be a popular alternative.
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Jan 21, 2017 13:36
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So because the manual changed you're gonna add a step and undertorque it? Why? Don't try to hack the matrix, just change the wheels and use the correct number.
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Jan 21, 2017 15:06
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Pryor on Fire posted:So because the manual changed you're gonna add a step and undertorque it? Why? Don't try to hack the matrix, just change the wheels and use the correct number. No, mine are torqued to spec. I asked if anyone here was a fan of one of the alternative methods of tightening lug nuts. Some folks like it because it provides the correct stretching force at less applied torque, makes it easier to remove the lug nuts later, blah blah blah. I torque per the manual and deal with the occasional snapped stud at removal.
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Jan 21, 2017 20:01
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Correct me if I'm wrong but greasing lug studs sounds like a terrible idea 
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Jan 21, 2017 22:35
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literally a fish posted:Correct me if I'm wrong but greasing lug studs sounds like a terrible idea That was my gut response when I first heard about it, but the torque we measure when we use a torque wrench is a surrogate marker for what holds the nut on, the normal force between the stud and the nut. The most accurate measurement would be to measure the stretch of the stud, which is what you do in critical places like nuclear reactor heads. Greasing the lug stus decreases friction at the surface interface but not the noral firxe, so you actually need LESS torque to stretch the stud and hold the wheel on. If you greased the stud and torqued to spec you'd way over-torque and potentially break the stud. Counterintuitive but them's the breaks.
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Jan 21, 2017 23:29
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So I got my airbag done. A lot of people seem to e worried about creaks appearing. I was not because I have 150k on a subaru with a stiff suspension and bushing. So everything that could rattle did. I actually have way fewer rattles. Like almost quiet. Good job dealer service guy!
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Jan 22, 2017 00:15
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The benefit to some sort of thread lube or anti-seize is that the tightness will be more consistent compared to dry. And also there is the whole not seizing thing. Depends on what you are using but 25% less is a good starting point from what I can gather. So if you had anti-seize on all the lug nuts, I think in the 55-60 lb/ft would still be an acceptable amount, would possibly work out to closer to 80 dry. And then with rod bolts for example it is good to use a bolt stretch gauge. I suppose with head studs you could measure stretch too.
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Jan 22, 2017 01:53
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nm posted:So I got my airbag done. Subaru sent me a big card bitching that I haven't had mine done yet. I guess I need to do that, do they give out loaners? I kinda need this scrapheap to get around, Houston's a car city.
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Jan 22, 2017 02:03
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BloodBag posted:Subaru sent me a big card bitching that I haven't had mine done yet. I guess I need to do that, do they give out loaners? I kinda need this scrapheap to get around, Houston's a car city. I don't think it takes that long -- the techs at this point have probably done it a million times. Maybe call the dealer and schedule a saturday or something when you just hang our. or you culd ask for a loaner, you might get lucky?
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Jan 22, 2017 02:15
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Well, it's happening! I started the buying process today on a first wave bugeye WRX . Probably be another 2-3 weeks before I see it, but I'm looking forward to it. It's everything my girlfriend told me not to buy. 
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Jan 23, 2017 13:48
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So I was in here earlier asking about parts for a Forester head gasket job. I got everything together and tore the motor down, heads look slightly warped based on a straightedge check and the factory head gaskets were poo poo. I obviously need to get the heads machined, but I've never dealt with this before. How far do I have to strip the heads down before they can be resurfaced at a machine shop? This is a newer EJ253 so it has all the variable cam timing pieces on the gear train that look like a real pain in the rear end to remove. Can this be done intact or do I need to break them down?
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Jan 23, 2017 18:39
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I brought the whole head assembly in when I did a gasket job on a 98 outback. They told me they took the apart and washed it out before machining. I also asked them to do the exhaust studs because they were rusted to poo poo. My shop did it all for about $300. I found said shop by going to the Subaru dealer and asking the service department who they send it to. The machine shop should be able to quote the milling standard to you.
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Jan 23, 2017 19:08
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Does anyone know with what engines you can do an engine swap on a 2010 outback? And how to even find out prices etc?
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Jan 23, 2017 23:29
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My radiator went and my head gasket blew at the same time, or as a result of the radiator. 92k miles. We're considering a swap instead of the $2kodd for the gasket, don't really want to sell it either. Freaking sucks
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Jan 23, 2017 23:35
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4 RING SHRIMP posted:My radiator went and my head gasket blew at the same time, or as a result of the radiator. 92k miles. We're considering a swap instead of the $2kodd for the gasket, don't really want to sell it either. Freaking sucks Head gasket probably caused the radiator failure. When the gasket fails, combustion gases can pressurize the cooling system. Swapping a used engine will be more expensive than doing the head gaskets, and you run the risk of getting an engine with a failing gasket. Having the heads machined and a new upgraded MLS gasket (refer to the OP), water pump, timing belt, etc will probably get you a much more solid engine for less money.
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Jan 24, 2017 01:42
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4 RING SHRIMP posted:My radiator went and my head gasket blew at the same time, or as a result of the radiator. 92k miles. We're considering a swap instead of the $2kodd for the gasket, don't really want to sell it either. Freaking sucks Where did you get the quote for that, the dealer? If so call around to some local indie shops. I just did that same job for less than 1k with a new timing belt kit and water pump (you are almost due at 105k anyway) though minus the radiator ($200ish). As long as your engine isn't knocking it's definitely worth doing the gaskets and timing belt since its the same amount of labor to do both at the same time. shy boy from chess club fucked around with this message at 05:36 on Jan 24, 2017 |
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Jan 24, 2017 05:33
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My 105k service is looming and I wish Houston had more flannely types like Austin does. Not a lot of Subaru options here outside of the three dealers.
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Jan 24, 2017 19:00
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shy boy from chess club posted:Where did you get the quote for that, the dealer? If so call around to some local indie shops. I just did that same job for less than 1k with a new timing belt kit and water pump (you are almost due at 105k anyway) though minus the radiator ($200ish). As long as your engine isn't knocking it's definitely worth doing the gaskets and timing belt since its the same amount of labor to do both at the same time. Yeah the dealer and the guy who's previously done all our work gave a pretty similar quote. The timing belt and water pump had been replaced maybe 5k miles ago. Am I supposed to do a new timing belt kit and water pump again now with the head gasket?' I'm going to do some looking around for shops in the greater boston area. i think the heads need to be machined, I'm not sure if that's standard or not with this repair. I truly know nothing. 7 RING SHRIMP fucked around with this message at 19:19 on Jan 24, 2017 |
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Jan 24, 2017 19:13
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No you won't have to put a new belt on if you just did it. I did it for my guy since it was due anyway. But yea it's better to just do the gaskets with the upgraded ones rather than swap in an unknown engine as long as it's not knocking or anything and it just needs the head gaskets.
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Jan 24, 2017 19:17
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Jan 24th and I still haven't had to swap winters on to the WRX. In fact, I've been able to drive the BRZ with summers on it several times in the last week. Looking at the long term forecast, there appears to be a single day next week that might be troublesome. I'm going to be annoyed if I have to swap for a single day.
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Jan 24, 2017 20:05
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bull3964 posted:Jan 24th and I still haven't had to swap winters on to the WRX. In fact, I've been able to drive the BRZ with summers on it several times in the last week. Kinda surprising -- though still unseasonably warm, there have been enough cold, snowy, or icy days here in Philly that it's still been overall worthwhile. Though I do work nights, so I might be biased on the "cold enough" issue. And I guess it also depends on if your 'summer" tires are actually good all seasons. My friends summers on the V-wagon certainly haven't been good for the colder days.
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Jan 24, 2017 21:38
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Can someone reassure me that I'm not getting ripped off selling my 06 WRX wagon for 7500? I'm on a time crunch and people either never show up to see it or keep low balling me down to 7-7.5. My local shop told me they go for about about 7-8k ever since the new models dropped but I was hoping for more since mine is basically stock and only has 102k on it. At this point I think I just need to let it for 7500 but it hurts my heart.
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Jan 24, 2017 22:43
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tetrapyloctomy posted:Kinda surprising -- though still unseasonably warm, there have been enough cold, snowy, or icy days here in Philly that it's still been overall worthwhile. Though I do work nights, so I might be biased on the "cold enough" issue. And I guess it also depends on if your 'summer" tires are actually good all seasons. My friends summers on the V-wagon certainly haven't been good for the colder days. The Pilot Sport AS3 are great in the cold. They just can't clear more than a dusting from the tread. But I haven't had to drive on snow covered roads this year at all (aside from my unsalted driveway.) We've only had a handful of days this year where snow even persisted on the ground for more than 24 hours. Hell, it was in the 50s and 60s most of last week through the weekend. We've only had 13 days since December 1st where the daytime high has been below freezing and nearly all of them have been bone dry.
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Jan 24, 2017 22:57
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shy boy from chess club posted:No you won't have to put a new belt on if you just did it. I did it for my guy since it was due anyway. But yea it's better to just do the gaskets with the upgraded ones rather than swap in an unknown engine as long as it's not knocking or anything and it just needs the head gaskets. Thank you for the help. It looks like we're going with the swap, not exactly my choice as it's under the family business but just praying there's no issues. Trust the guy enough who's doing the work. 47k on the new engine. It's got the lesbian blue/grey, considering a paint job on it now that I (loving hopefully) have another 4-5 years minimum on it. Might do maacco or clear the space at our shop.
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Jan 24, 2017 23:00
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bull3964 posted:The Pilot Sport AS3 are great in the cold. They just can't clear more than a dusting from the tread. Yeah, an ultra high performance all season still gives you enough in cold-but-not-snowy that it was super hard for me to convince myself to get the jack out and change the tires on all of our cars when we got that bit of snow earlier in the season, but you never know which way the winter is going to turn. Freaking Christmas 2015 was eighty degrees. That was the worst holiday shift ever, everyone was surrounded by relatives they barely could stand on a good day, and were drunk and stabby on top of it all.
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Jan 24, 2017 23:12
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Iron Lung posted:Can someone reassure me that I'm not getting ripped off selling my 06 WRX wagon for 7500? I'm on a time crunch and people either never show up to see it or keep low balling me down to 7-7.5. My local shop told me they go for about about 7-8k ever since the new models dropped but I was hoping for more since mine is basically stock and only has 102k on it. At this point I think I just need to let it for 7500 but it hurts my heart. Automatic or standard? Mods?
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Jan 24, 2017 23:13
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tetrapyloctomy posted:Yeah, an ultra high performance all season still gives you enough in cold-but-not-snowy that it was super hard for me to convince myself to get the jack out and change the tires on all of our cars when we got that bit of snow earlier in the season, but you never know which way the winter is going to turn. Freaking Christmas 2015 was eighty degrees. That was the worst holiday shift ever, everyone was surrounded by relatives they barely could stand on a good day, and were drunk and stabby on top of it all. Yeah, but right now we're only a week away from when the averages start increasing. So, barring a sudden change in the jetstream (which can happen), we're going to be getting into the feedback loop of warm ground+more sunlight. If we were cold, we had enough moisture for some really bitching snowfall, but you just get rain and flooding when it's 45.
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Jan 24, 2017 23:33
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Iron Lung posted:Can someone reassure me that I'm not getting ripped off selling my 06 WRX wagon for 7500? I'm on a time crunch and people either never show up to see it or keep low balling me down to 7-7.5. My local shop told me they go for about about 7-8k ever since the new models dropped but I was hoping for more since mine is basically stock and only has 102k on it. At this point I think I just need to let it for 7500 but it hurts my heart.
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Jan 24, 2017 23:58
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