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Injuryprone posted:So I can get away with just using the Army Painter Regiment, Character, and a rando drybrush then? Sweet. I hate to admit it but I kinda love the Regiment and Character brushes. They're good enough, but also cheap enough.
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Jan 21, 2017 20:55
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I pretty much just use a W&N size 1, a small citadel drybrush, and a standard citadel brush. For detail work you don't really need a small brush, just one that keeps a good point.
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Jan 21, 2017 21:10
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Floppychop posted:I pretty much just use a W&N size 1, a small citadel drybrush, and a standard citadel brush. I've found that larger brushes also dry out more slowly, which is important when you're taking things cautiously.
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Jan 21, 2017 21:12
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signalnoise posted:I hate to admit it but I kinda love the Regiment and Character brushes. They're good enough, but also cheap enough. So Regiment = basecoat and washes Character = highlights and details So I could just buy this set- small Drybrush, Regiment, Insane Detail ($14) and throw in a Character ($6) and be fine. Actually, the set is barely any savings so maybe it's better to just buy them individually. I'm going to be painting Nurgle, so I assume I will be mostly doing washes and detail.
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Jan 21, 2017 21:19
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Injuryprone posted:So Regiment = basecoat and washes If you're sticking to Army Painter brushes, I like Regiment for basecoat Character for picking out general details like leather straps Detail (regular, because insane detail is worthless) for highlights and stuff Monster for washes Either of the drybrushes for drybrushing If I had an endless supply of those 5 brushes, I could paint forever and not really care about getting new brushes. But they do wear out faster than others, and you must absolutely keep certain brushes separate, like I would never use my drybrush for anything but drybrushing, because drybrushing fucks up brushes. Since I DON'T have an endless supply, and because I can afford to have more, I do use lots of brushes, which helps me technically though my talent, patience, and skill are lacking. But I believe it's a good idea to not use the same brush for flats and metallics. I don't even use the same rinse cup for those. Metallic flakes get in your standard paints brush and it gets all weird to deal with for me. I have a set of travel brushes, too. I do not use W&N brushes only because my cleaning discipline sucks, and I would not get the lifespan out of them that I should. I am an equipment junkie though, and I recognize that. You should buy the brushes you're going to use, nothing more, but think about what applications you're going for and after a while you'll get a feel for what kind of brush you like for what application.
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Jan 21, 2017 21:30
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Aniodia posted:If you really want to keep that poo poo super safe, hit it with a coat or two of gloss, then a coat of matte. Gloss varnishes tend to be more actual varnish and thus are more of a protective layer, whereas matte varnishes need to have an additive to get it matte. As such, they end up thinning the actual varnish part of it to be less than ideal for any sort of long-term protection. I've used Krylon Gloss spray varnish with no ill effects, but Testor's Dullcote is constantly recommended as the matte varnish of choice, mostly because of being a lacquer varnish (and thus more resistant to wear and tear than an acrylic varnish). The cans are small, but if you use it as I recommend (i.e. the final coat after gloss varnishing), it'll last you a good amount of models. do you gloss and matte just metal figures or do you do that to plastic as well? I am in the priming/washing stages and have not bought finish yet. I was probably going to just go wit the Testor's Dullcote for my plastic orks and space marines but I do have maybe 5 old pewter models to paint, so I am just wondering what people consider good finishers to pieces. edt. because the weather is still cold and rainy in Kansas, I primed 20 grots with Gessco and did a black wash on them. I have only painted the green bits on the grots so far and I enjoy the coloring. Anyone else have experience with brush on primers vs spray primer? Seems like a lot of people prime orks black and space marines gray. The Gessco goes on white and then I did a wash. I plan on using color specific washes as shade after dry brush painting them. No Luck Needed fucked around with this message at 21:51 on Jan 21, 2017 |
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Jan 21, 2017 21:49
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signalnoise posted:If you're sticking to Army Painter brushes, I like Awesome, thank you! I'll get two Monster since I plan to use rust effects, typhus corrosion and ryza rust, since the corrosion is kinda like a wash.
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Jan 21, 2017 21:57
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Injuryprone posted:Awesome, thank you! I'll get two Monster since I plan to use rust effects, typhus corrosion and ryza rust, since the corrosion is kinda like a wash. Wash your brush with brush soap every single session you use technicals, by the way. And use a different rinse cup for those in my opinion.
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Jan 21, 2017 22:37
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No Luck Needed posted:do you gloss and matte just metal figures or do you do that to plastic as well? I am in the priming/washing stages and have not bought finish yet. I was probably going to just go wit the Testor's Dullcote for my plastic orks and space marines but I do have maybe 5 old pewter models to paint, so I am just wondering what people consider good finishers to pieces. Plastic figures aren't quite as bad as metal for having paint come off, but it's still a good idea to do the gloss and matte on them. It'll protect them from handling during play.
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Jan 22, 2017 01:42
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So thanks to living in the tundra I can't really spray prime, and I've let this Vallejo brush on primer cure for a week and a half and it can still be scratched with just a light pass of a fingernail. Is there another good option or should I just handle them delicately and pray like hell?
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Jan 22, 2017 04:22
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Got another space elf clown finished this afternoon. Happy with it overall. Pretty excited to get a whole troupe finished up and their clown car, too. 
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Jan 22, 2017 05:39
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Alokgen posted:Got another space elf clown finished this afternoon. Happy with it overall. Pretty excited to get a whole troupe finished up and their clown car, too. That looks fantastic. Keep up the good work
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Jan 22, 2017 06:19
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Inquisitor Katarinya Greyfax:    
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Jan 22, 2017 15:30
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I'm currently working on my Dropfleet UCM ships with the goal of getting the front row of three cruisers as well as the four frigates ready to run some demos at a local con in february: The thing i'm currently unsure on is what to do with the heatsink looking details:  On my test ship i highlighted the ribs and ignored them otherwise but especially on the big laser weapons they're pretty prominent.  I could see doing them in a faint red glow but i'm somewhat afraid that it would mess with the colour composition. No choice i can come up with seems really good at the moment. Anyone got opinions or advice?
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Jan 22, 2017 16:20
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Honestly the highlight looks pretty solid
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Jan 22, 2017 16:30
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GuardianOfAsgaard posted:Inquisitor Katarinya Greyfax: Good poo poo
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Jan 22, 2017 19:13
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Lose a point for not knifing off the silly candle, but otherwise its nice to see that the model looks pretty good with a diff and cool paint job 
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Jan 22, 2017 19:19
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GuardianOfAsgaard posted:Inquisitor Katarinya Greyfax: How'd you do the brass looking armor bits? My brasses/bronzes always end up looking too much like dirty gold.
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Jan 22, 2017 22:20
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Floppychop posted:How'd you do the brass looking armor bits? My brasses/bronzes always end up looking too much like dirty gold. Those are Balthazar gold, shaded with reikland fleshshade gloss, a thin layer of liberator gold, and then stormhost silver highlights.
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Jan 22, 2017 22:44
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Neurolimal posted:Lose a point for not knifing off the silly candle, but otherwise its nice to see that the model looks pretty good with a diff and cool paint job If anything she should have more candles. Is greyfax available separately? Or only in that bundle?
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Jan 23, 2017 01:46
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The hat-candle owns.
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Jan 23, 2017 02:13
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Dr. Phildo posted:If anything she should have more candles. Only in the bundle for now. Hat candle does own, one of the coolest parts of the model IMO, along with the ridiculous crossbow bolter and how her face is kinda hosed up and split open/scarred near her bionic eye and mouth. I didn't even notice it 'till I started painting the face and thought she just had a massive smirk. Neurolimal posted:nice to see that the model looks pretty good with a diff and cool paint job Thanks, but aside from a little red on her corset as a nod to her implied Sororitas origins, I followed Saint Duncan's guide almost to the letter, so not exactly a very different paintjob.
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Jan 23, 2017 02:23
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Hey guys I'm about to get my grubby mitts on a bunch of MDF terrain soon. If I'm airbrushing this stuff, should I seal it first? Get some cheap Matt varnish and just spray it thin when it's still in the frame?
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Jan 23, 2017 13:26
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Lord Twisted posted:Hey guys I'm about to get my grubby mitts on a bunch of MDF terrain soon. If I'm airbrushing this stuff, should I seal it first? Get some cheap Matt varnish and just spray it thin when it's still in the frame? I dunno about sealing it, but you should start by priming the gently caress out of it, preferably with a cheap spray primer (I use Rustoleum). Otherwise, MDF drinks paint like a mofo.
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Jan 23, 2017 13:28
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Yeah that's what I mean - preventing it drinking the paint. I was thinking a matt clear varnish to start?
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Jan 23, 2017 14:12
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I've read that watered down PVA works. I'll be taking part in a terrain day at my local club over the weekend, and part of the plan is to sort out our MDF stuff - so can hopefully give you some pointers next week.
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Jan 23, 2017 15:39
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Cheers mate. A friend of mine has said just do 2-3 thin layers of airbrushed undercoat to get it ready for painting, but I haven't worked with MDF before so just wanted any input before I start work!
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Jan 23, 2017 15:52
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Lord Twisted posted:Yeah that's what I mean - preventing it drinking the paint. I was thinking a matt clear varnish to start? Sounds good. Give it a go and report back.
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Jan 23, 2017 16:12
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Does anyone know any tricks for straightening out long thin metal bits like spears and gun barrels that have become wavy due to slight bends in multiple places?
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Jan 23, 2017 17:34
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Holy gently caress that is a pretty ship
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Jan 23, 2017 17:44
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Class Warcraft posted:Does anyone know any tricks for straightening out long thin metal bits like spears and gun barrels that have become wavy due to slight bends in multiple places? Other than replacing them with brass rod, just lots and lots of fiddling with the bent bit (at least as far as I know).
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Jan 23, 2017 17:56
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Some survivors made using either exclusively the lion or antelope armour for Kingdom Death in the core game.
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Jan 23, 2017 22:13
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Edit: Derp.Injuryprone posted:So I can get away with just using the Army Painter Regiment, Character, and a rando drybrush then? Sweet. Late response but pretty much. Army Painter also makes drybrush brushes of three different sizes; the Small one is probably best for you. Of course as your collection grows and you end up working on bigger minis and such, you'll likely end up wanting to expand your collection of brushes, too, but those three are what I use for about 90% of my painting techniques. In general, I quite like Army Painter brushes; they're not super good but they're cheap and good for the price. Just remember to clean them often, the drybrushes especially tend to end up soaking a bit of paint and turning into solid lumps. Drake_263 fucked around with this message at 00:07 on Jan 24, 2017 |
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Jan 23, 2017 22:27
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Indolent Bastard posted:Other than replacing them with brass rod, just lots and lots of fiddling with the bent bit (at least as far as I know). I was hoping these was some ancient gamer secret to getting them straight again. Doing it by hand I feel like I'm creating as many bends as I'm fixing.
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Jan 23, 2017 23:22
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Class Warcraft posted:I was hoping these was some ancient gamer secret to getting them straight again. Doing it by hand I feel like I'm creating as many bends as I'm fixing. Are these metal or plastic? If they're metal, finagling may be the best way to fix them (apart from brass-rod replacement as Indolent Bastard suggested above). If they're plastic, you could try the old hot-water trick: dip the affected part into hot water for a few seconds until it's pliable, bend it into the shape you want, then quickly dunk it into cold water to "shock" it into holding its shape. (This method might be tricky with some types of hard plastic; for instance, avoid getting the water too hot for Games Workshop grey plastic. Also, I've never tried this with anything already painted; you might end up having to repaint the affected section if your paint sloughs off.)
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Jan 23, 2017 23:48
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Fun Fact: Metal is more resistant to being bent after being bent, so you're more likely to just bend in another place than fix an existing bend.
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Jan 24, 2017 00:08
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Crossposting from the 30K thread: I got to take part in a GoWarHead Horus Heresy event on Sunday, and managed to walk away with the Best Army award with my Death Guard loyalists:      The Facebook photo gallery has more pictures of all the armies involved in the event, including a friend's Emperor's Children with awesome freehanded filigree work. In general, I found all the armies at the event to be all sorts of cool and awesome, with lots of lovely conversions and sexy paint jobs. The actual players were pretty nice people to hang around with, too, and though I got thoroughly whupped in two of my three matches I had a great time. Definitely would like to have another go, although 1750 points seems a tad bit low for a 30K point limit.
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Jan 24, 2017 00:42
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signalnoise posted:Fun Fact: Metal is more resistant to being bent after being bent, so you're more likely to just bend in another place than fix an existing bend. As all goons should know from their knowledge of folding katana blades
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Jan 24, 2017 02:25
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Who are the current go to goon army painters for hire?
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Jan 24, 2017 06:46
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Class Warcraft posted:Does anyone know any tricks for straightening out long thin metal bits like spears and gun barrels that have become wavy due to slight bends in multiple places?
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Jan 24, 2017 09:19
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