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My parents (as well as invalidos) have a 2010 V50, with a 2.0 lolpeugeot turbodiesel. I've driven it a fair bit, and I can't say much else than "perfectly nice car". It's practical, well-behaved, and fully functional in every way. Just a bit smaller than the V70s the rest of the family gets around in, and slightly bigger than the V40 (1st gen) I used to have. It's not very exciting to drive, since it's just "normal" in every way and the 136hp turbodiesel doesn't invite to shenanigans. Has a 6-speed manual, which suits that engine well (close-geared and low 6th). For long drives, I really like it. They've had it for a about 3 years, it's done somewhere around 130000km, and it hasn't really had any issues so far. Only things requiring maintenance that I can remember have been some minor engine-related things, but that only goes for that strange french diesel that I guess doesn't exist in the US. Literally everything else has "just worked" so far, can't remember it having any issues at all besides "diesel things". As for the T5, I've only ever driven or worked on S60's and V70's with engines called that, which weren't the B5254T3 or B5254T7 used in V50's but some slightly older revision. Not sure how big the difference is, but all the ones I've seen have been very similar. That engine should make just about any reasonably sized car pretty fun and snappy though. Craploads of Volvos badged "T5" on Swedish roads have some kind of tuning kit installed, and based on empirical observation it seems to work out just fine. The T5's in the V50 (and some other new-ish models) have the turbocharger integrated with the exhaust manifold, and I have no idea what the maintenance/replacement/upgrade situation is on that contraption, if you are thinking about a bigger turbo or something.
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Dec 23, 2016 08:19
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My aunt and uncle had a V50 for about 8 years. They hold on to their cars for a long time but that car was a giant money sink neither of them particularly liked and they sold it and bought a new CR-V this summer. I've got my 240 dash in pieces for the infamous blower motor replacement. Holy cripes I hope I can get the drat thing back together and remember where everything goes. Art's cleanflametrap.com page is fairly helpful but this is a SRS car so it's slightly different. Another $85 into the car I paid $500 for.
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Dec 23, 2016 08:25
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Applebees Appetizer posted:How is the performance of the T5? Is it reasonably inexpensive to get a bit more reliable power out of it? It's pretty peppy, but yeah there are a few reputable tuners that can just reflash and give you a significant percentage more torque without doing anything else. And of course there's always intercoolers, downpipes, and turbo upgrades that just bolt on. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 16:15 on Dec 23, 2016 |
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Dec 23, 2016 16:07
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Looks like a TB/WP job is about $1k so if the guy is willing to negotiate based on that and the car drives good I'll see what happens. Are these motors interference? I could do the job myself but I just don't have the time or motivation, would rather pay someone else to do it.
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Dec 23, 2016 19:03
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Yeah, they're interference engines. The one you linked looks good - the only thing that jumped out at me is that it's missing the front lip that matches the rest of that body kit, but it seems like that's the case for 90% of the cars for sale that have it so I wouldn't sweat it much.
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Dec 23, 2016 19:32
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And the big thing is to remember to keep the serpentine belts fresh. This car has two small ones instead of a big one. The 90k mile 07 C70 I just did an engine swap on junked the motor because the AC serpentine belt got hard, shredded a couple of the tiny V sections off, which then wrapped around behind the harmonic balancer, and then under the timing belt. Every intake valve was open when I removed the manifold and looked in. We talked to the previous owners and they convinced the insurance company that they ran over a tree branch which ruined things, but it was just a neglected belt.
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Dec 24, 2016 03:22
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puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 03:49 on Jan 4, 2020 |
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Dec 25, 2016 06:25
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My understanding is the bolt pattern is either extremely close or exactly the same, so all you need is clearance for that protrusion which that adapter flange will provide. Volvo sold the 14T on 2.4 and 2.5 liter engines running 6 psi. The wastegates were set around 2psi cracking pressure but on Volvos they are computer controlled so the turbo control valve holds the pressure back until it wants the wastegate to open. Not sure if the stock wastegate will work passively like the old school systems but my guess is that it will. Does that answer your questions?
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Dec 26, 2016 01:22
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puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 03:49 on Jan 4, 2020 |
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Dec 26, 2016 03:55
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So there was a local Volvo meet the day after Christmas, it was a lot of fun! It was my first ever Volvo meet. I only took 3 pics because I'm a terrible person.   It was a good meet, and the local dealer gave us Keychains. Then I got home and checked the mail (which I didn't do for like 2 days) and got Volvo Mail that basically said "Congrats on Buying a Volvo" so I took an appropriate pic with the swag keychain.  It was a very good day.
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Dec 27, 2016 18:01
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Apart from the T5-R and everything being suspiciously clean, it could have been almost any parking lot in Sweden. 
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Dec 28, 2016 13:18
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So my 850's transmission started making grinding/humming noises in the last gear, almost exactly on the 130K mark. Still shifts well. How much wallet damage am I potentially looking at?
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Dec 31, 2016 08:23
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with the help of his former mechanic housemate and my brother, my dad has somehow managed to un-explode the dead 940 turbo by draining the milkshake (months later) from the crankcase, replacing it with new oil, spraying seafoam in the cylinders, putting gas + oil in the cylinders, and using head gasket sealer god bless the volvo redblock
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Jan 1, 2017 09:35
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the 940 decided it didn't need anymore water on the freeway and overheated so i decided to replace the turbo, water pump and head gasket walk out this morning to work on it a bit and there's a ton of oil leaking out of the rear main seal just loving kill me
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Jan 12, 2017 16:51
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Big Bowie Bonanza posted:the 940 decided it didn't need anymore water on the freeway and overheated so i decided to replace the turbo, water pump and head gasket Volvo Megathread: just loving kill me
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Jan 12, 2017 19:03
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volvo. volvo never changes.
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Jan 12, 2017 22:18
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Successfully completed the 240 blower motor and resistor replacement on 12/26. Then the battery died.
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Jan 13, 2017 02:01
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i changed my 240's radiator and v belts a month ago, now i'm tearing it all apart to change the timing belt thank sweden for noninterference engines
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Jan 13, 2017 04:48
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my dad is complaining about the formerly blown-up and now partially blown-up car using a jug of coolant for every two trips into town and has concluded that the cap on the overflow tank is leaking i don't have the heart to tell him it works as a pressure relief device
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Jan 15, 2017 11:17
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I love my C30.
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Jan 15, 2017 20:04
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found a '90 740 w/ 105k on it and it only needs a new turbo here we go again
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Jan 24, 2017 18:05
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Big Bowie Bonanza posted:found a '90 740 w/ 105k on it and it only needs a new turbo quote:...it only needs a new turbo what does your heart tell you 
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Jan 24, 2017 20:33
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zundfolge posted:what does your heart tell you so funny story we were trying to resurrect my 95 940 last weekend but pulled the head off and decided it was a terrible idea. in the process of doing the head i was going to replace the turbo as well, so i have a replacement already sitting in the garage and the turbo from the 95 940 fits the 90 760 so that actually is money already spent edit: if you want to see an idiot muddling through learning how cars work filter my post history in this thread Big Bowie Bonanza fucked around with this message at 06:40 on Jan 26, 2017 |
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Jan 24, 2017 20:47
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volvo megathread: i am out of places to park volvos though which might be a problem
Big Bowie Bonanza fucked around with this message at 21:04 on Jan 24, 2017 |
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Jan 24, 2017 20:57
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Over the past few weeks I've noticed my 1997 850's brakes have felt firmer (pedal feel - feels like it stops halfway down) and weaker. I replaced the rear pads and rotors a few years ago but haven't touched the fronts in the 7.5 years I've owned the car. Brake fluid is probably pretty old. Pads have plenty of material on them in the front though. What should be the first thing I check?
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Jan 24, 2017 21:38
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Absolutely flush your brake fluid regardless. It makes one hell of a difference. I had ate super blue in my '96, it may have been slow but the brakes were strong and controllable, probably the best on any car I've had.
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Jan 24, 2017 22:44
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CornHolio posted:Over the past few weeks I've noticed my 1997 850's brakes have felt firmer (pedal feel - feels like it stops halfway down) and weaker. I replaced the rear pads and rotors a few years ago but haven't touched the fronts in the 7.5 years I've owned the car. Brake fluid is probably pretty old. Pads have plenty of material on them in the front though. What should be the first thing I check? If you haven't had the front brakes apart in 7+ years you could just give those a closer look for good measure. Something like stuck slider pins can make things feel strange in a lot of weird ways. If front brakes are good, my wild guess based on the symptoms would be the brake booster or its vacuum hose. Hose is dirt cheap and easy to replace, booster a bit fiddly. Failures/leaks there are often accompanied with some kind of hissing sound.
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Jan 24, 2017 22:46
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angryrobots posted:Absolutely flush your brake fluid regardless. It makes one hell of a difference. I had ate super blue in my '96, it may have been slow but the brakes were strong and controllable, probably the best on any car I've had. I'm kind of afraid to flush the fluid unless I absolutely have to. I'm afraid the bleeder nipple might break off because it's so rusty. Had that happen on my truck recently. Not really a fun time.
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Jan 24, 2017 23:00
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Helps to get good and not crap flare wrenches. I have a GearWrench set that was like $50 or so I'd recommend.
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Jan 25, 2017 00:14
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ionn posted:brake booster or its vacuum hose. Hose is dirt cheap and easy to replace, booster a bit fiddly. Failures/leaks there are often accompanied with some kind of hissing sound. This. Also, another quick and easy problem to diagnose and solve is the booster check valve. That would give the symptoms you describe.
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Jan 25, 2017 08:11
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CornHolio posted:I'm afraid the bleeder nipple might break off because it's so rusty. ultrabay2000 posted:Helps to get good and not crap flare wrenches. For the bleeder nipple you won't need flare wrenches, and you're probably better off with a regular 6-point 1/4" socket (8 or 10mm or whatever size they are). Flare wrenches are better than regular flat open wrenches at not rounding poo poo off, but not as good as sockets. However, while having fresh brake fluid is always nice, I don't think that's the problem in this case.
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Jan 25, 2017 11:11
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ionn posted:For the bleeder nipple you won't need flare wrenches, and you're probably better off with a regular 6-point 1/4" socket (8 or 10mm or whatever size they are). Flare wrenches are better than regular flat open wrenches at not rounding poo poo off, but not as good as sockets. However, while having fresh brake fluid is always nice, I don't think that's the problem in this case. Was going to say the same thing. Crack them loose with a socket vs. a line wrench. If that doesn't work then you're likely replacing calipers when you want to change your fluid out.
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Jan 25, 2017 13:49
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And if that's what it takes, I mean drat calipers are cheap and brakes are necessary.
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Jan 25, 2017 14:01
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Might be worth checking for stuck calipers too. Every P80 car I've worked on has had at least one, especially if the brake fluid wasn't changed regularly. I finally made the first mod to my V50 - I've wanted a C70 steering wheel for a while and one finally popped up for sale on eBay. It was listed for $75 with "some wear," but it looked decent in the pics so I took a chance on it. Turns out it was just filthy - there was a layer of grime all over the wheel rim.  It cleaned up nicely, though.
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Jan 25, 2017 18:23
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Larrymer posted:Was going to say the same thing. Crack them loose with a socket vs. a line wrench. If that doesn't work then you're likely replacing calipers when you want to change your fluid out. I've always used a standard box wrench since I don't know how in the world you'd use a socket with bleeder hose, unless you're just breaking them loose and using the wrench afterwards.
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Jan 25, 2017 20:59
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IOwnCalculus posted:I've always used a standard box wrench since I don't know how in the world you'd use a socket with bleeder hose, unless you're just breaking them loose and using the wrench afterwards. Yes, that. All my box wrenches are 12 point, so I stay away from those. If I'm breaking the bleeders loose, I'm going to bleed them anyway so doing it with a socket and getting air in the line isn't a concern.
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Jan 25, 2017 21:45
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Jan 26, 2017 06:34
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zundfolge posted:I finally made the first mod to my V50 - I've wanted a C70 steering wheel for a while and one finally popped up for sale on eBay. It was listed for $75 with "some wear," but it looked decent in the pics so I took a chance on it. Turns out it was just filthy - there was a layer of grime all over the wheel rim.
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Jan 26, 2017 07:30
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ionn posted:If front brakes are good, my wild guess based on the symptoms would be the brake booster or its vacuum hose. Hose is dirt cheap and easy to replace, booster a bit fiddly. Failures/leaks there are often accompanied with some kind of hissing sound. The hose looks like it's at the bottom of the master cylinder and goes under the airbox. Is there a good diagram showing the hose routing? I can't seem to find one. I have a non-turbo if that matters.
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Jan 26, 2017 16:42
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Yesss! I seem to have no luck finding good deals around here. 'Grats on the new ol' brick.
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Jan 26, 2017 17:35
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