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Pyramid Scheme posted:I've recently gotten into the Raspberry Pi and am slowly learning how to use them through online projects. What you're describing is using the Pi as a WiFi bridge. You should be able to find several articles about doing this if you try searching for Pi WiFi Bridge. I haven't done this myself so I'm not sure which ones are better than others but this one seems to make sense.
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Jan 17, 2017 19:59
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That would be dogshit slow. You're better off just buying an actual wifi bridge, they are cheap.
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Jan 17, 2017 22:52
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Cheers. "bridge" was the search term I was missing. I'll check out dedicated bridges - if they're cheap, that's all I need.
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Jan 17, 2017 23:21
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Pyramid Scheme posted:Cheers. "bridge" was the search term I was missing. I'll check out dedicated bridges - if they're cheap, that's all I need. Alternatively, a router with something like DD-WRT or Tomato in bridge or client mode.
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Jan 17, 2017 23:28
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smax posted:Alternatively, a router with something like DD-WRT or Tomato in bridge or client mode. A quick Amazon search with the magic missing word "bridge" has unveiled a realm of handy products I always suspected existed, but didn't have the magic word for, nor the good sense to look harder. I've ordered as simple 5GHz bridge that sits in a socket and has a cable network point. I will now curl up in a ball of shame and embarrassment. Thanks all!
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Jan 18, 2017 00:34
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GobiasIndustries posted:I really enjoy mine but it definitely makes me appreciate the ease of working with a mature platform like the pi. This thing is rough around the edges and even though it's not as bad as a lot of the people on their forums are making it out to be (a lot of them sound like they were expecting a full computer experience for $5, shocker) there's a lot of stuff with mine that just didn't work or was broken at first. Make sure to update to the latest firmware version (http://repo.onion.io/omega2/images/). I was on b136 or 37 and the web client was awful. After flashing to b140 (b139 is still the latest that shows up in the web client for me, I flashed manually) it's been mostly solid, though the cloud integration is still having problems from what I've seen. The documentation is also getting way better; when mine first showed up they didn't even have a section for the arduino board, someone just stumbled on the install package by accident and posted it on the forums Finally got my omega stuff today. I see what you mean about it being a bit rough. I also had to manually update to the <actual> latest firmware, and like you said, it won't work with the onion cloud (kinda silly, come on guys). I'll explore it by messing with the docks and poo poo I got with it, figure out how to add some SDcard storage and then decide what kinda projects I want to use it for. At least it was painless to get connected to wifi, I'll also try getting it setup as a very basic wifi server too, see if that works well enough yet. I love the size but I am finding that it gets quite warm just being powered on. I'm running a python script now that just does simple math as fast as possible to peg the cpu and it's actually pretty drat hot to touch.
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Jan 18, 2017 08:58
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smax posted:Alternatively, a router with something like DD-WRT or Tomato in bridge or client mode. I did this for years with various combinations of access points and third‐party firmware. I found commercial bridges to be much more reliable.
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Jan 18, 2017 09:24
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Pyramid Scheme posted:A quick Amazon search with the magic missing word "bridge" has unveiled a realm of handy products I always suspected existed, but didn't have the magic word for, nor the good sense to look harder. I've ordered as simple 5GHz bridge that sits in a socket and has a cable network point. I will now curl up in a ball of shame and embarrassment. Thanks all! The only ways to find out are either asking for these things or accidenty running into them. Both are usually "how the gently caress did I not know this existed" moments.
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Jan 18, 2017 09:25
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LochNessMonster posted:The only ways to find out are either asking for these things or accidenty running into them. yep. The answer is usually a keyword away. Might as well be some arcane magic word given how difficult it can be to hit on the right thing. I'm going to play Devil's advocate again. If a person is working with 100Mbit Ethernet and USB2.0 the Orange Pi PC works pretty well. It doesn't use an internal hub to multiplex USB ports. It also has faster RAM so it seems to work a bit better as a simple server. I wish i could comment on the Orange Pi Zero that I'm using currently as a NAS, but honestly I don't know much about it internally. All I can say is it has WiFi, 100MBit ethernet and a USB port, with teh ability to add two more via a header. Don't know if it has an internal hub or the ports are conneted directly to the outside world. Easy enough to set up with Armbian. More packages available than Raspbian. Either one needs heatsinks. Fan cooling is optional but many people use it. I'm just throwing in my 2c because my experience with headless things using the Orange Pi PC and Zero were more positive than using the various Raspberry Pi's i tried. They are cheaper too. I haven't tried any of the other of the fifty billion different SBCs out there. Just speaking from what I know. If anyone does want to try them, don't waste your time with an SD card image from their site. It's just a world of pain. I still use my Raspberry Pi's, it's just my Orange Pis seem to be better for grunt work.
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Jan 19, 2017 02:58
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tuna posted:Finally got my omega stuff today. I see what you mean about it being a bit rough. I also had to manually update to the <actual> latest firmware, and like you said, it won't work with the onion cloud (kinda silly, come on guys). I'll explore it by messing with the docks and poo poo I got with it, figure out how to add some SDcard storage and then decide what kinda projects I want to use it for. Yeah that's my plan too, hopefully by the time I get a few arduino projects under my belt and an sd card installed the cloud stuff'll be fixed, it looks like one of the issues they're actively working on. I wanna order a few of the expansions (pwm & relay) but I'll wait to give them money until the big stuff is fixed. Speaking of tiny boards, anyone here have a CHIP? I know they're backordered but I was thinking of ordering one to use as a little node-red playground with my spare arduino. It'd be way cheaper than ordering another pi. It looks like they can be set up headless too so all I'd need would be the board as I've got a spare usb cable. GobiasIndustries fucked around with this message at 04:21 on Jan 19, 2017 |
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Jan 19, 2017 04:19
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GobiasIndustries posted:Yeah that's my plan too, hopefully by the time I get a few arduino projects under my belt and an sd card installed the cloud stuff'll be fixed, it looks like one of the issues they're actively working on. I wanna order a few of the expansions (pwm & relay) but I'll wait to give them money until the big stuff is fixed. Sounds like they've been busy. New firmware (0.1.9) is out today that apparently fixes cloud/SDcard issues along with reset button and the reboot command.
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Jan 20, 2017 00:42
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tuna posted:Sounds like they've been busy. New firmware (0.1.9) is out today that apparently fixes cloud/SDcard issues along with reset button and the reboot command. Yeah, the cloud seems to be up and running for me (I have no idea how to use it yet though) and the reset button on my arduino dock works. Don't have an SD card to test that yet. The reboot command has worked for a few firmware versions but it also broke the poweroff command (now poweroff=reboot, so that's..interesting). It uninstalled my arduino packages during the update which was irritating. Two steps forward, one step back I suppose. GobiasIndustries fucked around with this message at 05:33 on Jan 20, 2017 |
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Jan 20, 2017 03:42
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GobiasIndustries posted:Yeah, the cloud seems to be up and running for me (I have no idea how to use it yet though) and the reset button on my arduino dock works. Don't have an SD card to test that yet. The reboot command has worked for a few firmware versions but it also broke the poweroff command (now poweroff=reboot, so that's..interesting). It uninstalled my arduino packages during the update which was irritating. Two steps forward, one step back I suppose. Yeah new firmware seems to blow away everything except ~ and wifi settings. [e] got the microSD mounted. You'll have to format it as ext4 beforehand (I used e2fsprogs on osx), and the sd card should automatically appear as /dev/mmcblk0 mounted on /tmp/run/mountd/mmcblk0 I'm not sure how stable this is right now. I can read/write to it fine for the most part, but running df won't always show it. tuna fucked around with this message at 07:24 on Jan 20, 2017 |
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Jan 20, 2017 06:37
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I have a naive electromechanical question, if you'll indulge me. I'm building a Pi that can control something in my house, via 433MHz remote control impersonation. The transmitter is a little circuit board about 2 inches on each side, with 3 pins. I'd like to figure out how to enclose the whole thing within a case, rather than have a breadboard dangling off of it. Are there shields that will help me here, or do I need to wire it up with tiny wires and leave it loose within the case? The GPIO pins that I need to connect to (one data, VCC, GND) aren't adjacent on GPIO, so I guess it might not be possible, but I'd really like something tidy if I can manage it.
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Jan 20, 2017 09:57
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Look up Pi Cobbler on AliExpress/eBay. It's a breakout with a ribbon cable for a couple bucks, keeps stuff clean.
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Jan 20, 2017 16:38
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ante posted:Look up Pi Cobbler on AliExpress/eBay. It's a breakout with a ribbon cable for a couple bucks, keeps stuff clean. Perfect, thank you! I can probably do this with an Arduino in the future, if I get a Z-Wave shield/whatever for it, but I figure it'll be easier to get going with a Pi. E: do you know of a case that could contain the cobbler and a Pi, with a couple of inches of headroom on the cobbler breadboard for components? EE: https://www.buyapi.ca/product/modmypi-modular-rpi-b-case-black/ looks like it can do what I want! Now to find or make shorter gpio cables. Subjunctive fucked around with this message at 17:10 on Jan 20, 2017 |
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Jan 20, 2017 16:50
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This is pretty interesting - Asus have just launched a "Tinker Board" quote:The Tinker Board features a fast on-board processor to increase its operational speed. It also features Wi-Fi and Bluetooth capabilities to enhance the functionality to allow connection to a variety of wireless networks. Available for £55 in the UK and uh, 599NOK in Norway. Presumably more locations will follow soon...
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Jan 20, 2017 23:41
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Is there a way to hook up a Raspberry Pi to a CRT with component? I see mentions of composite, but it doesn't look nearly as good. And while I got lcd tvs, the project I have isn't the same as running it on HDMI.
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Jan 21, 2017 00:15
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Rirse posted:Is there a way to hook up a Raspberry Pi to a CRT with component? Plug the HDMI output to a box that converts from HDMI to component, like this https://www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-hdmi-to-component-converter
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Jan 21, 2017 02:08
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Rirse posted:Is there a way to hook up a Raspberry Pi to a CRT with component? I see mentions of composite, but it doesn't look nearly as good. And while I got lcd tvs, the project I have isn't the same as running it on HDMI. There's probably an HDMI adapter for that. What I would love is an HDMI to ~15KHz VGA adapter. I know, kind of nuts and pointless but it'd be neat to drive my Amiga monitors with. Or failing that, S-Video because the signals work fine with the Commodore Luma and Chroma ports.
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Jan 21, 2017 11:36
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blunt posted:This is pretty interesting - Asus have just launched a "Tinker Board" General_Failure posted:What I would love is an HDMI to ~15KHz VGA adapter. I know, kind of nuts and pointless but it'd be neat to drive my Amiga monitors with. Or failing that, S-Video because the signals work fine with the Commodore Luma and Chroma ports. HDMI->VGA, then a VGA 15KHz adapter.
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Jan 21, 2017 19:09
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Are Kodi (on Pi) questions okay in here? I have a Pi2 with Kodi (OpenElec 7, Kodi 16) hooked up to my TV, and use my real remote to control it. When browsing up and down file or folder lists with the "arrow keys" on my remote, I would like if it was able to move faster between the items. Is that delay configurable somehow?
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Jan 21, 2017 21:22
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Pilsner posted:I have a Pi2 with Kodi (OpenElec 7, Kodi 16) hooked up to my TV, and use my real remote to control it. When browsing up and down file or folder lists with the "arrow keys" on my remote, I would like if it was able to move faster between the items. Is that delay configurable somehow? It's not the ideal answer to your question, but you may be able to press right, then use the up and down keys to move the scrollbar rather than individual items. This definitely scrolls the list quicker.
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Jan 21, 2017 21:32
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Froist posted:It's not the ideal answer to your question, but you may be able to press right, then use the up and down keys to move the scrollbar rather than individual items. This definitely scrolls the list quicker.
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Jan 21, 2017 21:56
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Related question - running Kodi through RetroPi here. The key keeps sticking to the left. Meaning I can't at all navigate through Kodi. Does it on both the 360 controller and bt keyboard.
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Jan 22, 2017 18:27
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wolrah posted:Lack of H.265 support kind of neuters its usefulness as a 4K Kodi box, but the extra horsepower still could be nice. I'm not really familiar with how good Rockchip is about kernels, but it looks like there might be pretty reasonable support. Hm. I just happen to have a Jamma cabinet with a fried SFII-CE board just sitting around going to waste too. Might be time for a revival.
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Jan 23, 2017 07:02
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wolrah posted:Lack of H.265 support kind of neuters its usefulness as a 4K Kodi box, but the extra horsepower still could be nice. Apparently one of the articles down the link chain from the previous post had a bad infographic only listing H.264 support. Ars lists it as having H.265 support in hardware in their article (http://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2017/01/asus-tinker-board-price-specs-release-date/) and from a bit of searching it seems like the RK3288 may have been the first widely available SoC with H.265 support. It'll also be interesting to see what they mean by Kodi support, because I've found a lot of posts on the Kodi forums with devs telling people to avoid RK hardware if they want mainline hardware decoding.
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Jan 23, 2017 16:23
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Pilsner posted:Yeah I know, but that can be cumbersome also. Usually when I hit the top of the scrolling, then "click" left, the bottommost item is selected, forcing me to move all the way up the list to reach the top item. First World Problem, but annoying. Channel up and channel down work as page up and page down, respectively, for me in Kodi (three separate RPi3s, TVs, and remotes, all connected via HDMI-CEC).
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Jan 25, 2017 05:22
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Is something like this what I need to be able to use a rpi to turn power off to 110V devices? That's really just one of my first Googlin' results, so if there's anything good or better tell me what it is! This isn't for anything important, I'm just wanting to do a little project for fun to let me turn some things on/off programmatically.
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Jan 25, 2017 21:26
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Thermopyle posted:Is something like this what I need to be able to use a rpi to turn power off to 110V devices? That's really just one of my first Googlin' results, so if there's anything good or better tell me what it is! If it's a wall outlet device that you might use for a while check out a premade relay in a cable kind of thing like this: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10747 If you're just trying stuff out there's a lot of cheap relay boards available: https://smile.amazon.com/Tolako-Arduino-Indicator-Channel-Official/dp/B00VRUAHLE/ I've got an ebay version of the latter controlling my garage door (which isn't much power across the relay when it's closed). There's a lot of 2, 4, or 8 relay boards on amazon/ebay for not a lot of money. edit: I see the amazon relay board says 5-12V DC for the control and the pi is 3.3V. So it may need a voltage level converter or another way to step up the control voltage. Rexxed fucked around with this message at 22:20 on Jan 25, 2017 |
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Jan 25, 2017 22:17
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Pilsner posted:Are Kodi (on Pi) questions okay in here? MrPablo posted:Channel up and channel down work as page up and page down, respectively, for me in Kodi (three separate RPi3s, TVs, and remotes, all connected via HDMI-CEC). This. Also there's a keymap editor plugin you can download that will let you set your remote buttons to do whatever you want.
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Jan 25, 2017 23:09
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Was this the thread that discussed those USB voltmeter ammeter things? I was considering one to try to work out wtf my Pi 3's deal is with under voltage bitching constantly. I've never managed to isolate the issue. To make it more confusing I just tried it with a 20000mAh (20Ah I guess) power bank and there was no under voltage issue. I plugged it into the 2.1A USB outlet. Ive tried it with heaps of different supplies and cables and the issue is always there to some degree. Even with the drat 5A supply it's connected to normally. Droop under load seems to be the problem. loving thing. The Raspberry and Orange Pi zero works fine, so does the Pi B and the Orange Pi PC. I can even run the OPi PC off the 5A supply along with a USB HDD with no issue. The Raspberry Pi 3 is so finicky.
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Jan 26, 2017 10:55
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I think the general consensus is to use the official one with a raspberry etched into the plastic. I also saw the under volt logo a couple of times when overclocking my Pi3 on a poor charger but haven't seen it since I started using the official one. Edit: this one - https://uk.rs-online.com/mobile/p/plug-in-power-supply/9098135/
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Jan 26, 2017 11:17
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General_Failure posted:Was this the thread that discussed those USB voltmeter ammeter things? I was considering one to try to work out wtf my Pi 3's deal is with under voltage bitching constantly. I've never managed to isolate the issue. To make it more confusing I just tried it with a 20000mAh (20Ah I guess) power bank and there was no under voltage issue. I plugged it into the 2.1A USB outlet. What happens if you put the USB devices attached to your pi 3 onto a separately powered hub? It simply might be a case of whatever you've got attached tipping things over to undervoltage.
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Jan 26, 2017 18:43
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Just the Pi with nothing except the HDMI cable it still happens. For a whole I had an analog multimeter hanging off 5v and Gnd GPIO pins. There were small dips corresponding with CPU load but not too disastrous. I figured that maybe every single cable I have was poo poo, but seeing the power bank with borderline capable draw working with the cable I usually use for the Pi 3 (20cm to cut down on voltage drop) working fine, I just don't know any more. I was using the analog multimeter because I can't find the digital one. It's also why I was asking about those USB things that can monitor voltage and current.
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Jan 27, 2017 01:04
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If you're seeing voltage droop with nothing connected, then you have a lovely power supply. It doesn't matter what it says on the label, cheap crap will just lie about its capabilities. Especially if it works OK with a different power supply (your power bank), you just answered your own problem.
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Jan 27, 2017 05:44
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I once had an HDMI cable spark a little bit when pushing it in. The sparking came from the "D shaped" surround on the connector and it was a really old lovely TV that belonged to an ex girlfriend. It's possible that the equipment you're plugging in could be causing a short or a sort of semi-short. This mainly applies if you're using a really old lovely TV or an old HDMI cable, though. It's a bit of a long shot.
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Jan 27, 2017 06:27
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I was getting power issues with what should have been a plenty good enough supply and it was a poo poo cable causing it
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Jan 27, 2017 09:44
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I don't know how to multi quote on mobile. Sorry. In the end of doesn't matter. I went away for a couple of days. Only left the orange pi zero running. Turned on the orange pi PC and it was clearly upset with lots of messed up display / blanking. Found an old digital multimeter and resurrected it. Supply started to poo poo itself over the last couple of days. 4.75V maximum. ~4.4V avg, and maybe 3.9v minimum. Guess it was a slow burn intermittent failure. poo poo happens. Funny the HDMI sparking was brought up. That can be an appliance killer. Or at best a cable killer. The TV did that with the Xbox 360. Something hosed with ground potential.
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Jan 27, 2017 10:03
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apropos man posted:I once had an HDMI cable spark a little bit when pushing it in. The sparking came from the "D shaped" surround on the connector and it was a really old lovely TV that belonged to an ex girlfriend. It's possible that the equipment you're plugging in could be causing a short or a sort of semi-short. This mainly applies if you're using a really old lovely TV or an old HDMI cable, though. It's a bit of a long shot. What's a semi-short? I'm new to this stuff.
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Jan 27, 2017 15:38
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