|
That reminds me -- has anyone here made a cart like this one, where you have two heavy tools bolted to the same "table top" and you can flip it around to change which tool is on top? I'd like to make a cart for my thickness planer and/or router table so I don't have so much lifting to do when I haul them out of storage, and so I have something to attach outfeed rollers to and a place to store router bits and the like. Does that cart actually work well? How does the flipping mechanism function?
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2017 22:20
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 7, 2024 21:31 |
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:That reminds me -- has anyone here made a cart like this one, where you have two heavy tools bolted to the same "table top" and you can flip it around to change which tool is on top? I'd like to make a cart for my thickness planer and/or router table so I don't have so much lifting to do when I haul them out of storage, and so I have something to attach outfeed rollers to and a place to store router bits and the like. Does that cart actually work well? How does the flipping mechanism function? I haven't built one but Izzy swan has a video from not too long ago where he built something like that. I think he used threaded rod for the pivot point and dowels on the corner that you push in to lock it in place? Seemed ok but I would probably want more than the dowel on one corner that I think he used
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2017 22:41
|
|
|
So I bought a set of Narex chisels, the Robert Larson honing guide, and some DMT diamond plates. After following the guide to modify the honing guide so that it would hold my plane blade square I'm still having lots of trouble with my chisels. I think the wedge shape and side profile of the chisel is causing the honing guide to slightly twist or rotate the blade, which is causing me to put a taper into the chisel edge... If that makes sense.   I'm not sure what else to do here. I definitely don't have the skill to hand sharpen these or remove the taper it has created. Do I just breakdown and buy the Veritas Mk2? Does the use some different clamping pressure to hold the chisel square to the roller?
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2017 23:38
|
|
|
Squibbles posted:I haven't built one but Izzy swan has a video from not too long ago where he built something like that. I think he used threaded rod for the pivot point and dowels on the corner that you push in to lock it in place? I don't want to look up a video while at work, but it sounds like basically you build up a tabletop with a hole through the width (probably by laminating together 3 layers of boards), fix a nut or two in the hole so they can't move relative to the tabletop, thread the rod through the nuts, and stick a handle on the end of the rod? Then have some reasonable latching mechanism. That sounds pretty doable, thanks. I wonder what the load limits are on 3/8" threaded rod? I have a ton of it lying around.
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2017 23:40
|
|
|
MetaJew posted:So I bought a set of Narex chisels, the Robert Larson honing guide, and some DMT diamond plates. After following the guide to modify the honing guide so that it would hold my plane blade square I'm still having lots of trouble with my chisels. I've been seeing the same thing with my sweethearts and whetstone, btw. Same guide.
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2017 23:52
|
|
|
MetaJew posted:So I bought a set of Narex chisels, the Robert Larson honing guide, and some DMT diamond plates. After following the guide to modify the honing guide so that it would hold my plane blade square I'm still having lots of trouble with my chisels. If you didn't square up the front face (that you have marker on), it is likely the factory which made it out of square. Don't worry about it and square everything up once and it should be stable from there.
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2017 23:54
|
|
|
I'm not sure how I would go about squaring it up, but the honing guide is definitely making it worse. When I hold a straight edge against the chisel, when it is clamped tightly I to the guide, I can see that it is very slightly rotating. Its only introducing maybe a fraction of a degree into the chisel, but when honing for the first time, it is obviously tapering the tip.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2017 00:16
|
|
|
I wish I had a budget answer for you guys with the eclipse sharpening jigs but I caved in and bought the mk2 after fiddling with and eventually getting frustrated with the eclipse style guide for the same reason (chisels not clamping up square). I know a lot of folks use the eclipse style and make it work, but personally I'm glad I spent the money on the mk2 set.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2017 00:18
|
|
|
Yeah, I've probably spent 5+ hours tuning and readjusting and getting the same results over and over with the Robert Larson/Eclipse guide. I think I'm ready to replace it with the Mk2 as well if it works as well as the reviews say.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2017 00:24
|
|
|
Frohike999 posted:Yeah I placed my order on 1/10 and on the toolsforwoodworking site it expected them to be back in stock mid-Jan, but now it just shows temporarily out of stock. I've been busy with other stuff so haven't messaged them about it. I know the Gramercy holdfasts are available in other places, but the price is definitely right here. What other places?
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2017 01:08
|
|
|
MetaJew posted:Yeah, I've probably spent 5+ hours tuning and readjusting and getting the same results over and over with the Robert Larson/Eclipse guide. I think I'm ready to replace it with the Mk2 as well if it works as well as the reviews say. The only "trick" to the mk2 is remembering to reset the roller if you use its adjustment to hone a micro bevel at the end. FYI: When I refer to the mk2 I mean the whole set, straight and camber roller, wide and narrow holder. I used it before the narrow holder came out and it was still good but it wasn't the best for narrow chisel blades. Now with both blade holders and both rollers it answers all of my sharpening problems. (I also have the skew registration jig for my skew rabbet plane blades).
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2017 01:11
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:That reminds me -- has anyone here made a cart like this one, No but I will be. I've acquired more machines and I'm out of space. Most guys use at least 5/8 rod, some use wood, some use metal conduit. I just need to decide which machines to pair up.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2017 01:17
|
|
|
I would recommend using 3/4 iron pipe if you build one of those flip top carts, and don't have thread in your pivot hole. I can imagine the ones using threaded rod just getting more and more sloppy over time as the threads wear out the wood they pivot in. As far as shop talk goes, I'm not quite done but I'm getting really close! 
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2017 01:32
|
|
|
MetaJew posted:So I bought a set of Narex chisels, the Robert Larson honing guide, and some DMT diamond plates. After following the guide to modify the honing guide so that it would hold my plane blade square I'm still having lots of trouble with my chisels. Same guide, same problem. I don't have a clue, but I'm quoting in the hope that someone else does.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2017 02:09
|
|
|
Goddamnit GE I saw you talking about mk2 and my first thought was "but warmachine is on mk3 now" 
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2017 02:12
|
|
|
GEMorris posted:I would recommend using 3/4 iron pipe if you build one of those flip top carts, and don't have thread in your pivot hole. I can imagine the ones using threaded rod just getting more and more sloppy over time as the threads wear out the wood they pivot in. The nice thing about threaded rod is that you can attach stuff basically anywhere as long as that stuff has threads -- and by embedding a nut into some wood, you can make wooden attachments that thread onto the rod. I would solve the "threads eating away at the wood" issue by passing the rod through a segment of copper pipe or something similar. Your shop looks nice. I like the dog bed.  For my part, over the weekend I bought and installed and filled a lumber rack...and I didn't even touch my primary wood stash (a miscellaneous bunch of hardwood boards sitting in my sun room) to do it, this was just picking things up off the workshop floor and putting them on the new shelves.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2017 02:55
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:
While I do have two dogs that's a cat house for our two garage cats. Still nice to have animals in the shop, not so much when they track sawdust on your car. Magres posted:Goddamnit GE I saw you talking about mk2 and my first thought was "but warmachine is on mk3 now" To be fair I thought the same thing while typing it even though I moved on to guild ball and still need to sell my Retribution.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2017 03:00
|
|
|
My new dresser got stained today. Clear tomorrow and second coat on Wednesday. Happy with the progress, happier to be almost done with this project(s).
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2017 03:46
|
|
|
Different take on flip top carts. I like diytyler, his stuff is always practical. http://diytyler.com/2016/04/01/double-flip-top-workstation/
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2017 08:24
|
|
|
Mister Dog posted:Same guide, same problem. I don't have a clue, but I'm quoting in the hope that someone else does. Can you guys hold a square to the chisel and guide and see if its at an angle? That should be the first thing to check
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2017 13:59
|
|
|
Mister Dog posted:Same guide, same problem. I don't have a clue, but I'm quoting in the hope that someone else does. I ran into the same problems with the same guide. Chances are you filed something too much (or not enough) and it is skewing it. I tripled checked the guide and filed everything a few more times and I got everything square. One of the youtube guides for this recommends clamping a small, thin piece of wood in it to check if it is applying pressure equally. I've since gotten the hang of hand sharpening, its definitely worth the effort to learn properly at some point. EDIT: OH YEAH ^^^ check it with a square.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2017 14:24
|
|
|
Tres Burritos posted:Can anyone recommend a design for a side table that can support a 160 lb piece of machinery? In my head I'm thinking "Thick top, thick legs, stretchers between the legs to stop it from wobbling / racking". If it's something that is going to put a lot of stress on the table — Not just weight, but stress from impact, vibration, heat/cool cycles, etc. — I'd start thinking about a steel leg system made for workbenches from Pollard Brothers, McMaster Carr, Grizzly or whatever.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2017 17:14
|
|
|
It's... inspiration? Aspiration? I don't know, I just want one: http://www.lovehulten.com/tempel.html
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2017 18:10
|
|
|
That... looks bad. I can appreciate the craftsmanship, but all of the integrated stuff is... bad. It reeks of steampunk aesthetic.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2017 18:24
|
|
|
Phone posted:That... looks bad. I can appreciate the craftsmanship, but all of the integrated stuff is... bad. It reeks of steampunk aesthetic. I dunno. This isn't nearly as bad as most steampunk stuff. More like woodpunk. Or something. I dunno, I think it's certainly an affected look but it's not that bad and fairly tasteful. No gears glued on everywhere. If I made small electronics work I might find it useful but it might be too pretty to work on too.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2017 18:34
|
|
|
Phone posted:That... looks bad. I can appreciate the craftsmanship, but all of the integrated stuff is... bad. It reeks of steampunk aesthetic.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2017 18:37
|
|
|
Spring Heeled Jack posted:I've since gotten the hang of hand sharpening, its definitely worth the effort to learn properly at some point. Everyone should do this when starting out. When you're sharpening by hand you're only taking a few thousandths off at a time. If you average .003" per sharpening, and you can get three useful inches from your chisel, you'll sharpen it a thousand times before it's "worn out." That would be a lifetime for the average hobbyist, and then some. Plus not many beginners drop the money on a full set of Ashley Iles, so even if you have to hit the grinder a lot to fix things, you'll get plenty of life for your money. TL;DR: Face your fear of sharpening by hand, you'll get better with practice.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2017 18:50
|
|
|
Trabant posted:It's... inspiration? Aspiration? I don't know, I just want one: It's clever in some ways and could be improved in others. I would mount LEDs inside so when you open the front they come on and illuminate the work area. The monitor moves too slow and hides the tool board. Lots of storage. The desk part looks too high for a standard office chair. I like the base idea.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2017 18:51
|
|
|
Honestly my main thought with that desk is that because there's no room for your legs, any time you're sitting at it you're going to be leaning over to see what you're working on. It makes my back hurt just to look at it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2017 19:01
|
|
|
Well... yes. That really is how I work on electronics or anything small/fiddly, which is what I think this bench is intended for. I did expect it to be polarizing but dang 
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2017 19:10
|
|
|
One Legged Ninja posted:Everyone should do this when starting out. When you're sharpening by hand you're only taking a few thousandths off at a time. If you average .003" per sharpening, and you can get three useful inches from your chisel, you'll sharpen it a thousand times before it's "worn out." That would be a lifetime for the average hobbyist, and then some. Plus not many beginners drop the money on a full set of Ashley Iles, so even if you have to hit the grinder a lot to fix things, you'll get plenty of life for your money. I use the guide when setting the bevel (or just use a grinder) but day-to-day sharpening is done by hand. I'm anti-micro bevel. Spring Heeled Jack fucked around with this message at 19:25 on Jan 31, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2017 19:22
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:Honestly my main thought with that desk is that because there's no room for your legs, any time you're sitting at it you're going to be leaning over to see what you're working on. It makes my back hurt just to look at it. It's a dropfront. Trabant posted:Well... yes. That really is how I work on electronics or anything small/fiddly, which is what I think this bench is intended for. gently caress the haters, let them build something better if they wanna go off on that piece. I like it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2017 20:51
|
|
|
Trabant posted:Well... yes. That really is how I work on electronics or anything small/fiddly, which is what I think this bench is intended for. I didn't mean to put you on blast.  I'm a huge nerd and fell into the "OMG ITS INTEGRATED AND TRANSFORMS!" hole because it's cool when things have multiple functions; however, I've found that the design hinges on how clever it is and if the cleverness can outpace the compromises that need to be made. Usually the compromises wind up making it frustrating to use at an infuriating pace, emphasis on usually. Frohike999 posted:Yeah I placed my order on 1/10 and on the toolsforwoodworking site it expected them to be back in stock mid-Jan, but now it just shows temporarily out of stock. I've been busy with other stuff so haven't messaged them about it. I know the Gramercy holdfasts are available in other places, but the price is definitely right here. Follow up: I just talked with toolsforwoodworking on the phone and they said that they're getting a shipment within the next 2 weeks. They sold out at Christmas and the ice/snow storms didn't help production.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2017 21:25
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:That reminds me -- has anyone here made a cart like this one, where you have two heavy tools bolted to the same "table top" and you can flip it around to change which tool is on top? I'd like to make a cart for my thickness planer and/or router table so I don't have so much lifting to do when I haul them out of storage, and so I have something to attach outfeed rollers to and a place to store router bits and the like. Does that cart actually work well? How does the flipping mechanism function? I've been looking at these quite a bit lately. I keep waffling between doing a flip top like this, or just a way to lift a tool in place and set it on a platform in the stand. That way different tools that are at different heights could all use the stand. I've got a small job site table saw and a miter saw that would be really nice to both use fold up wings for feeding material through or supporting.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2017 21:46
|
|
|
Falco posted:I've been looking at these quite a bit lately. I keep waffling between doing a flip top like this, or just a way to lift a tool in place and set it on a platform in the stand. That way different tools that are at different heights could all use the stand. I've got a small job site table saw and a miter saw that would be really nice to both use fold up wings for feeding material through or supporting. You could do a flip-top and then have adjustable-height mounts for the wings, using rails and pegs or something similar.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2017 22:00
|
|
|
MetaJew posted:When I hold a straight edge against the chisel, when it is clamped tightly I to the guide, I can see that it is very slightly rotating. the wizards beard posted:Can you guys hold a square to the chisel and guide and see if its at an angle? That should be the first thing to check Spring Heeled Jack posted:EDIT: OH YEAH ^^^ check it with a square. It's something to do with the shape of the Narex chisel and the guide. I stuck my plane blades in the guide and because they are uniform thickness they do not rotate or twist in the guide. I also stuck a metal ruler in the honing guide and it remained straight.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2017 22:03
|
|
|
MetaJew posted:It's something to do with the shape of the Narex chisel and the guide. I stuck my plane blades in the guide and because they are uniform thickness they do not rotate or twist in the guide. I also stuck a metal ruler in the honing guide and it remained straight. The problem definitely shows up more readily when bevel edged chisels don't have uniform bevel thickness.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2017 22:12
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:Honestly my main thought with that desk is that because there's no room for your legs... The front flips down, your legs go under that. One Legged Ninja posted:TL;DR: Face your fear of sharpening by hand, you'll get better with practice. This. Sharpening is complicated because people make it complicated. Woodworkers want a trick, or shortcut, but there isn't one. You have to pick up the chisel and go for it. IMO, trying to be a hand tool woodworker without learning to sharpen is like trying to be a writer without learning to type.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2017 22:12
|
|
|
I bought some of the bulk generic shellac flakes off Lee Valley and man I am having trouble with it. It dissolved okay, I strained it through some fine clean cloth and left it to sit, but the wax just isn't settling. My direct question I guess is how the peas do you dewax shellac? Is it a big deal? I tried a couple of coats on a small scrap of mahogany. It's absolutely beautiful and I'm wondering if I should just use it as is.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2017 22:17
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 7, 2024 21:31 |
|
|
I sharpen by hand. My chisel bevels aren't perfectly straight. I wish they were, but they aren't. Maybe they will get there with more practice. Oh well. I still get poo poo done. I do need a grinding wheel, though. I think my dad has one he doesn't use. I'm kind of tempted to get a hand crank one, just because old poo poo is cool, but it's probably a dumb idea.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2017 22:17
|
|
