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Hahaha Kevin Siembieda. Wargaming has some absolute shitlords but the RPG world is nightmare mode.
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Feb 1, 2017 11:35
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TTerrible posted:Hahaha Kevin Siembieda. Gaerth. Michael. Skarka. Anyway, all I was trying to say was that Creature Caster seems like they mostly made the same good faith mistakes most KS project creators make first (and sometimes second) time out, and as far as I'm aware everyone who didn't opt for an earlier refund got what they backed for, so there's no reason to not buy from them beyond the standard judgments on price, quality, and aesthetics you'd make with most other indy mini makers.
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Feb 1, 2017 12:01
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Darren MacLennan posted:So, some miniatures I done painted. Good looking work man. When it come to your lighting it could be one of a few things; -Your camera auto adjusting itself to the black background. Many auto settings try to balance the image to a medium for all within it, brightening everything to make up for the black. You should be able to adjust that as you're taking photos. Look for things like "ISO" and "aperture" and fiddle with them. -Your lights might be too close. Push those babies back -You might want to change from a black background to a lighter shade. Maybe a dark gray or something -Photo editing software could help you too. With digital stuff it's better to shoot darker and edit it to be lighter. - if you're on a cellphone just get a free photo editor. I like Snapseed. Good luck! If you have any questions hit me up!
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Feb 1, 2017 13:48
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NTRabbit posted:Anyway, all I was trying to say was that Creature Caster seems like they mostly made the same good faith mistakes most KS project creators make first (and sometimes second) time out, and as far as I'm aware everyone who didn't opt for an earlier refund got what they backed for, so there's no reason to not buy from them beyond the standard judgments on price, quality, and aesthetics you'd make with most other indy mini makers. That sounds like a fair assessment to me. It may have taken an age to get here but my Dragon is purdy.
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Feb 1, 2017 14:02
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TTerrible posted:I'd forgotten about Waylands involvement. Given the pattern, I wouldn't be surprised to see a giant final KS that never gets fulfilled either. What was the Waylands stuff? I'm mixed about them as a supplier - my first order was fine, my next order was terrible and a third order was mostly good, with massively improved customer service. And then the last bit of that order took the best part of 3 months to get ahold of, including one delivery where they sent me the wrong products.
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Feb 1, 2017 14:24
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glitchkrieg posted:What was the Waylands stuff? I'm mixed about them as a supplier - my first order was fine, my next order was terrible and a third order was mostly good, with massively improved customer service. And then the last bit of that order took the best part of 3 months to get ahold of, including one delivery where they sent me the wrong products. Wayland bought the debt from the suppliers, paid the something like 50p for every 1 pound owed, which leaves the suppliers hurt but not bleeding, so that Maelstrom actually owed Wayland the money - and then enacted a 30 day notice period for repayment, or face being wound up. Wayland would have been hoping they got all the moulds and other still valuable stuff after HMRC wound up Maelstrom, but the owner cut and ran, transferring the assets to Mierce for peanuts instead. Wayland didn't do anything wrong, they were just a third party that kicked the rotten building down.
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Feb 1, 2017 14:45
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Fyrbrand posted:My 4 year old has been obsessed with a Trollkin Sorceror that's been sitting in my to-do collection. He informed me the other day that this model, the good guy, was carrying a map to the bad guys. Obviously this was adorable and required an immediate paint job. I did a child's rendition of a map (good for me since I suck at freehand) and orange quills for little dude's favorite color. I'm a pushover, what can I say? Good parenting, sweet paintjob, A++ would dad again
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Feb 1, 2017 15:59
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Horace-Noah posted:
This is actually backwards. With a digital camera it's best to shoot as light as possible (without anything being too bright and clipping) and then darken in post. The camera can see more distinct tones at the lighter end, and digitally brightening images creates noise (pixels of different color and luminance). Those photos look pretty good. The easiest way to resolve the feeling that they're too bright is going to be to pull the lights a little bit further away from the sides (which softens the light) and moving them a little bit forward of where they're currently positioned, which will reduce the brightness difference between the center front of the model and the sides.
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Feb 1, 2017 16:48
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One more Caledonian done. 
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Feb 1, 2017 17:57
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The saddest Scotsman.
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Feb 1, 2017 18:24
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selnaric posted:One more Caledonian done. This is rad.
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Feb 1, 2017 20:03
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selnaric posted:One more Caledonian done. He kinda looks like he's raising an eyebrow in judgement and I love it xD
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Feb 1, 2017 21:10
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TheFinalTuba posted:He kinda looks like he's raising an eyebrow in judgement and I love it xD It's regarding the clothing choice of the model he comes paired with.
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Feb 1, 2017 21:44
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NTRabbit posted:Gaerth. Michael. Skarka. Yeah, if they were actual KS scumlords they probably wouldn't have put up "sold out" notices on their site in the firat place. Sad to hear that miniatures have their fair share of scammy kickstarters; prior to this derail every KS mini I've seen has actually followed through on their projects. Hopefully this is a sign that things are more good than bad, because its really cool to see sculptors eek out a living making cool small-biz miniatures.
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Feb 1, 2017 22:21
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Cat Face Joe posted:It's regarding the clothing choice of the model he comes paired with. Ha, oh yeah, it's that grenade launcher female isn't it?
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Feb 1, 2017 23:53
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Got my Reaper red triad and all 3 paints were good. Hoping that the kit I got earlier was just an anomaly and feeling more confident the replacement will be problem free.
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Feb 2, 2017 08:55
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darkwolf220 posted:Got my Reaper red triad and all 3 paints were good. Hoping that the kit I got earlier was just an anomaly and feeling more confident the replacement will be problem free. This is less a Reaper specific issue and more a general issue with ordering paints online. Sometimes you end up with a bottle that's just been sitting in a warehouse way longer than it should. Most companies will make it right no problem, but it's always gonna be a thing when you can't shake and inspect the bottle yourself.
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Feb 2, 2017 09:04
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In the warehouse too long, or else allowed to freeze.
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Feb 2, 2017 12:58
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Guys I'm thinking about getting a Dremel for making pinning /cutting less painless and trying to find other reasons to justify it. Can it be used for mould line removal from pewter miniatures or is that just asking for trouble? Also to post actual content, with the weather being poo poo outside I jumped back to painting and decided its time to start on a long pushed back project of my Slaanesh Blood Bowl team. Started out with the team big guy minotaur (using an old Keeper of Secrets). I wanted to base it on Hungarian grey cattle, but turned out I'm not that good of a painter to pull it off and the dark snout/horn tips didn't look good on the miniture. So I guess slight NSFW warning? There is a tit on the following image. Excuse mobile phone pics, the best I could do. 
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Feb 2, 2017 13:50
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with a rebel yell she QQd posted:Guys I'm thinking about getting a Dremel for making pinning /cutting less painless and trying to find other reasons to justify it. I'd say that a battery powered screwdriver would be a good option, but I don't know if it would be possible to find a chuck that fit the device and the small bits we have to use.
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Feb 2, 2017 14:07
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berzerkmonkey posted:It's not worth it, in my experience. It's too powerful for mold line removal - you'll wind up gouging a nice chunk out of something before you realize it. As for pinning, it's ok at best, but it spins to fast that when the bit grabs (and it will,) you'll wind up having your part spinning around at 2000 RPM and fly across the room. Unless you've got a bunch of chunky heavy models that really need pinning, just suck it up and use a pin vise. My cordless drill does a fine job for pinning and holds all sizes bits no problem. I'm not certain I would buy one just for pinning, but I had the drill already, so... I agree that cutting and removing flash is a really bad idea for drills and dremmel tools.
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Feb 2, 2017 14:45
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I use a rechargeable screwdriver with an adaptor i found on amazon for my pinning. It spins at like 300rpm, which is fast enough, but not so fast that i drill a hole thru my thumbnail... ... which i did with a dremel. It hurt so much i dry heaved.
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Feb 2, 2017 14:45
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dexefiend posted:It hurt so much i dry heaved. Considering I keep slicing my self every time I get near the xacto knife and a year ago I pushed a sculpting tool through my palm. I guess no dremel for me. Wife has one of those nail drill thingies, maybe I will give that a try.
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Feb 2, 2017 15:02
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with a rebel yell she QQd posted:Also to post actual content, with the weather being poo poo outside I jumped back to painting and decided its time to start on a long pushed back project of my Slaanesh Blood Bowl team. That painting is great, nice work. I've thrown it in my "inspiration" folder for when I finally get round to painting my Keeper of Secrets this year - exactly the same bits too! I've been tempted to kitbash a Slaanesh team out of Mantic Succubi and GW Daemonettes so would love to see what else you do with your team, please keep this thread updated!
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Feb 2, 2017 15:04
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Indolent Bastard posted:My cordless drill does a fine job for pinning and holds all sizes bits no problem. I'm not certain I would buy one just for pinning, but I had the drill already, so... A cordless might spin slower, so might be better suited for miniatures work. I think it would be overkill for plastic though.
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Feb 2, 2017 16:18
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I use a dremel for pinning, but only at super low RPM and with a Stylus model. It's very easy to handle. gently caress ever using one of the big ones for that.
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Feb 2, 2017 16:38
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You do not need a powered drill for pinning stuff unless you're doing a titan or an entire metal army. Even then it's marginal.
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Feb 2, 2017 16:45
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berzerkmonkey posted:A cordless might spin slower, so might be better suited for miniatures work. I think it would be overkill for plastic though. It can be overkill, but I just drilled and pinned an old plastic GW skeleton's sword to a Bones mini and it worked just fine. Use a pin or needle to make a "pilot divot" and go slow. If I could find my bloody pin vice I'd have used it, but the drill worked just fine.
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Feb 2, 2017 18:53
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I'm starting my first 40k force, which will be Astral Claws/Tyrant's Legion marines. Currently my plan is to base them by doing a layer of cork topped with Vallejo's Black Lava to get an asphalt effect, but since I'm just beginning to learn how to do this stuff I'm starting on some cheap tac squads from eBay. Since a lot of the models are already glued to plain bases, what's the best way of separating them? I was thinking a jeweler's saw might be the way to go but maybe there is something simpler. I'm also wondering if there is a go to site/manufacturer for flocking.
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Feb 2, 2017 19:23
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FromTheShire posted:I'm starting my first 40k force, which will be Astral Claws/Tyrant's Legion marines. Currently my plan is to base them by doing a layer of cork topped with Vallejo's Black Lava to get an asphalt effect, but since I'm just beginning to learn how to do this stuff I'm starting on some cheap tac squads from eBay. Since a lot of the models are already glued to plain bases, what's the best way of separating them? I was thinking a jeweler's saw might be the way to go but maybe there is something simpler. You might be able to get an Xacto blade under the foot and pop the model off, assuming it's been superglued, and not plastic glued to the base. It's not the safest of applications for your Xacto, so wear eye protection, since the blade tip will break off and go flying somewhere.
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Feb 2, 2017 19:38
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Testors sells hobby saws that could help separate them if they're plastic glued; understandably testors isn't the most trustworthy brand for quality, but I can attest that the saws are AOK.
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Feb 2, 2017 19:40
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FromTheShire posted:. IMHO, Woodland Scenics gives excellent value for the money. Their static grass and basing ballasts are available in 16oz containers, and they've got a nice variety of styles, colors, grains, whatever. (Case in point, I've got a container of their soft flake snow flock that I will be lucky to run out of before I die.)
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Feb 2, 2017 20:07
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FromTheShire posted:I'm starting my first 40k force, which will be Astral Claws/Tyrant's Legion marines. Currently my plan is to base them by doing a layer of cork topped with Vallejo's Black Lava to get an asphalt effect, but since I'm just beginning to learn how to do this stuff I'm starting on some cheap tac squads from eBay. Since a lot of the models are already glued to plain bases, what's the best way of separating them? I was thinking a jeweler's saw might be the way to go but maybe there is something simpler. I've never had a problem using an x-acto knife and a careful hand getting minis off bases. You can usually test them first with just your hands and snap them off if they aren't glued on ther ereal tight. As for flocking, Woodland Scenics is where it's at. Most other companies just repackage their poo poo and sell it at a higher price.
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Feb 2, 2017 20:19
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Thanks for the advice! I'm assuming the X-acto knife way only works with non-tabbed minis, correct? Is there a particular site that always carries Woodland Scenics for a good price or is it better to just google around and see who has the best deal on a particular day?
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Feb 2, 2017 21:00
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FromTheShire posted:Thanks for the advice! I'm assuming the X-acto knife way only works with non-tabbed minis, correct? Is there a particular site that always carries Woodland Scenics for a good price or is it better to just google around and see who has the best deal on a particular day? It depends. I usually bend and glue the tabs on mine, so I have to break the base to get the mini out. To be honest, if you've got tabbed metal minis, you're probably better off just taking the mini in one hand and the base in the other, then kind of rocking the model to break the glue. This will sometimes break the base, but they're cheap to replace, so no worries there. Just be careful with models with thin legs (your SMs won't be a problem.)
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Feb 2, 2017 21:08
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Progress on my Dropfleet Commander stuff: The engines are definitely the most fun part to paint.
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Feb 2, 2017 22:59
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What's the best material to use to lay out complex outlines and shapes for airbrushing? I'm making an idol racecar themed spaceship so can't exactly use painter's tape for the shapes. Like is there a film or paper that has some sort of adhesive for this purpose?
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Feb 2, 2017 23:40
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Chill la Chill posted:What's the best material to use to lay out complex outlines and shapes for airbrushing? I'm making an idol racecar themed spaceship so can't exactly use painter's tape for the shapes. Like is there a film or paper that has some sort of adhesive for this purpose? Tamiya tape goes down to 6mm, is that still too big?
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Feb 2, 2017 23:43
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I'm looking for something that will allow me trace outlines to cut out but still be adhesive enough for airbrush use. taping down the outlines I'm planning would be pretty painful since they would be human figures. But if that's the only way, I'll do it.
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Feb 2, 2017 23:53
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Chill la Chill posted:I'm looking for something that will allow me trace outlines to cut out but still be adhesive enough for airbrush use. taping down the outlines I'm planning would be pretty painful since they would be human figures. But if that's the only way, I'll do it. Oh right, I'm not really sure. Could try the consumable sheets for those stencil cutting machines?
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Feb 2, 2017 23:53
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