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gently caress. Fell asleep on the way home from a get together at a friends after workin a 12 hour shift at the mil. Wrecked my baby. Probably gonna be totaled. Estimate is drat near what it's worth http://imgur.com/BdlgqJy http://imgur.com/olSEBUY djhaloeight fucked around with this message at 22:18 on Nov 10, 2016 |
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Nov 10, 2016 22:15
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djhaloeight posted:gently caress. Fell asleep on the way home from a get together at a friends after workin a 12 hour shift at the mil. Wrecked my baby. Probably gonna be totaled. Estimate is drat near what it's worth poo poo man sorry. What happened? Was the frame spared?
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Nov 10, 2016 23:25
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Are you okay?
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Nov 11, 2016 18:13
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Yeah I'm fine. My car sure isn't though ;(
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Nov 11, 2016 22:41
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And as far as I can tell it's all cosmetic. Tough full frame Panther isn't gonna be fazed by a curb and a graze with a hydrant 
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Nov 11, 2016 22:43
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djhaloeight posted:And as far as I can tell it's all cosmetic. Tough full frame Panther isn't gonna be fazed by a curb and a graze with a hydrant Nice. Is it an option to have it totalled and buy the car back for cheap?
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Nov 11, 2016 23:49
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Not when I still owe about 9k on the car. Damages so far are about 10k, parts and labor. They'll probably total it out. Then I'll probably go get an '04 Marauder I've been looking at 
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Nov 12, 2016 00:11
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Throw junkyard Vic panels on it. Who cares if it even matches?
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Nov 12, 2016 06:40
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I dunno, from the photo I wonder if that shock tower is trashed.
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Nov 12, 2016 15:40
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Not sure if this is a valid use for the Panther megathread but I got a free '88 Town Car Signature a few months ago and have just now sat down to fix it. The PO stated the main problem was that the AMP light never turned off, which I think interrupts the alternator from working and nobody is happy. I pulled the alternator only to find out it was a practically brand-new Motorcraft rebuild. It's a 75A unit, internally-regulated. When I was picking through the wiring harness on the drivers' side, I found this quick-disconnect on the alternator harness has cracked in half and is rotten through with copper corrosion:  It's basically rice-paper brittle if I try to handle it by hand so I haven't been able to get it unplugged yet. Does anyone know what the replacement for this part is? I can't seem to find reliable parts fiche or wiring diagrams for this car. 10882-4 hasn't turned anything up. Also curious how I'm going to be able to re-crimp this wiring; it is fairly heavy gauge considering the relatively wimpy alt.
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Nov 14, 2016 15:16
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Not sure if this is a valid use for the Panther megathread but I got a free '88 Town Car Signature a few months ago and have just now sat down to fix it. Update, here's what some guy on Lincolns Online had to say: gadget73 posted:You've found one of the reasons these cars catch on fire. Will probably end up going 3G and rewiring this whole mess now, awesome.
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Nov 15, 2016 03:11
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Welp, insurance totaled my Vic today. Any damages over 80% of the value in Illinois is an automatic total. Damages came out to $10,684. They value the car at $11,600, which is good. I only owe $8900 on the loan. They said they'll pay it off, and the difference will be deposited into my bank account. Should be enough to buy a coworkers 1993 Lincoln Mark VIII which has been sitting in the work lot for months. He only wants $1400 for it. 125k miles, clean interior. Was owned by his friend's mom. I figure I'll drive that for the winter, detail the hell out of it in spring with my Porter Cable and clay and waxes, and sell it for $2700. It really just needs a good clean up. Got the 32v all aluminum 4.6L/4R70W. 280hp/285 ft/lb torque at 4500rpm. 3.08:1 rear gearing. I figure I'll open another savings account and keep putting what I pay on my note each month in there, then when I'm ready to buy another new(er) car, I'll have a healthy down payment. I'm still sick about my Vic though. It was one of the last ones that went down the line. Just had a brand new trans put in just about 2k miles ago. Car only had 63k on it. Oh well. At least no one was hurt. Cars can be replaced.
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Nov 15, 2016 05:55
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Splizwarf posted:I dunno, from the photo I wonder if that shock tower is trashed. Yeah, it needed an entire new front passenger suspension. The A-arm was jammed into the wheel/tire, they said the cradle was bent, the blower motor was smashed. The impact pushed so much stuff back into the firewall area. Couldn't even get my HID ballast out of the passenger side. The crossmember was smashed from the impact and the ballast was trapped, heh. Battery was leaking acid. I put the factory alternator back in, pulled out the aftermarket black tinted headlights I had installed, removed the huge 2/0 welding wire I used for my amplifier, all the big three wiring, put the factory radio back in, and was trying to remove the real wood Town Car wheel but I had to go to work and removing the airbag is a bitch with the spring loaded clips. I'm gonna give it a go tomorrow morning after work before my insurance tows it to their lot so I don''t accrue storage fees at the shop its at now. Also gonna throw the old factory headlights back on the car. I don't wamt them to reappraise it for less since its missing headlights and sidelights now. On a side note if anyone local to the Chicagoland area wants a set of 2011 17" CV LX wheels with almost worn rubber? Make me a reasonable offer. Email is username here at gmail.
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Nov 15, 2016 06:51
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Ever since my girlfriend inherited a Grand Marquis GS, I started looking for a Panther to replace my CTS that isn't nearly as comfortable to commute in. I was also looking for Brougham/Fleetwoods, but the prices on any decent ones in ENC are out of my reach. Found this 1998 Crown Vic LX on Craigslist a few days ago - after a test drive and CarFax check, it's mine!    Came with a stack of service records, the leather smells new, no squeaks or rattles, and no shudder whatsoever from the transmission. The guy was selling it for his mother in law who can't drive anymore - her and her husband bought it brand new in Georgia. It's a bit of an oddball - drat near fully loaded with the digital cluster, air ride, dual power seats, optional wheels, and upgraded radio with RDS (I've only seen that head unit on my friends Town Car of the same vintage). It also has aftermarket backup sensors since she had a bad habit of backing into things without it. $3k after haggling - a few hundred more than what I wanted to pay, but I couldn't find anything with less than 100k miles on it for under 6 grand so I bit the bullet. Only thing I want to do it is tink the windows and put a newer stereo in with Bluetooth - other than that, just enjoy my leather couch on wheels for many many years
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Dec 7, 2016 22:33
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Looking good. Is that brake dust accumulation on both front wheels? Or just some local flavor?
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Dec 7, 2016 23:13
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CharlieWhiskey posted:Looking good. Is that brake dust accumulation on both front wheels? Or just some local flavor? Just brake dust accumulation - I took a rag to one of them and it cleaned up to look like the tears without any effort. Looking forward to Christmas when I can take it on a road trip to PA and visit relatives.
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Dec 8, 2016 04:45
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Changed out the lower front balljoints on my 98 GM. That was a bitch and a half! The press tool i rented had no manual, so i opened it to find all of these mysterious artifacts. Very frustrating. But once I figured it out, not to much of a problem. A big big hammer and a breaker bar are absolutely essential. And at least two pickle forks. I had the idea to use a tie rod separator to lift the knuckle off of the ball joint stud! Genius! It broke the separator. I also had a hard time figuring out whether or not they were seated fully. Turns out there's a rim on the bottom of the control arm, making it feel like they're sticking out when they're actually flush with the lip. Ugh so much better now. I don't sound like squeaking, metal-grinding death from a mile away anymore, and the steering is noticeably more responsive.
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Dec 8, 2016 05:11
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Got a family member eyeballing an '96 GM (56K miles). He's not in love with this year but his budget is under 5K. I'm on the other side of the country so I can't look it over and what I know about Panthers could be written on the back of one largish matchbook. I'm going to go haunt some owner's forums but I'd like any tips you guys can offer about this series. And any quick tips would be great. [edit] The major beefs I'm seeing are about air suspension, some nylon bushing in the trans, and the normal list of minor issues like window regulators and radio. I browse this thread occasionally but I don't have a good feel for the air suspension issue. Any comments on the trans? My overall impression is that the Panther is a very solid platform and other than intake manifold issues and air suspension issues, they're extremely solid. My dad liked Lincolns. So I grew up working on '60s vintage Lincolns (with a 70-somthing LTD thrown in just for fun). So I've got a rough (very rough) idea of what that platform grew in to. Those old Lincolns were rock solid, other than the damned lifter problems. HawkHill fucked around with this message at 20:23 on Jan 5, 2017 |
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Jan 5, 2017 20:04
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For around $250 at a parts store (or possibly cheaper online), you can buy a kit from monroe that eliminates the rear air suspension in favor of a conventional setup. Budget for that + install and thats one issue sorted.
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Jan 6, 2017 07:04
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Cop Porn Popper posted:For around $250 at a parts store (or possibly cheaper online), you can buy a kit from monroe that eliminates the rear air suspension in favor of a conventional setup. Budget for that + install and thats one issue sorted. Excellent. That sounds like the way to go if that gives out. My only experience with air suspension was my dad's '72 (?) Continental.
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Jan 6, 2017 23:21
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Random question - I have a 98 Crown Vic LX, but I would like to have the front seats from a Town Car of the same vintage for the center armrest. Is it possible to just swap out the 50/50 seats for the 40/20/40 seats from the Town Car?
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Jan 14, 2017 17:53
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So I Carfaxed my totaled Crown Vic for shits and giggles, and it turns out the dealer that I bought the car from bought the car at a salvage auction, fixed it, and sold it again! It's got a salvage title now. Probably got it cheap and fixed it cheap since they're a large Ford dealer. Parts at cost and all body/mechanical work in house. Plus it had the new trans and the other work they just recently did to it.  At least the '93 Mark VIII I bought from a dude at work has turned out to be a super reliable fun and FAST car. I bet they turned around and sold the CV again for at least 10k. I'm enjoying no car payments for now and cheap liability only insurance. Next car will be a nice low mileage Marauder or something brand new, we'll see. djhaloeight fucked around with this message at 01:39 on Jan 17, 2017 |
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Jan 17, 2017 01:32
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bigtom posted:Random question - I have a 98 Crown Vic LX, but I would like to have the front seats from a Town Car of the same vintage for the center armrest. Is it possible to just swap out the 50/50 seats for the 40/20/40 seats from the Town Car? The floorpan is the same from 1992-2002 for all CV/GM/TC so you should be good. Wiring may be slightly different though.
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Jan 18, 2017 04:14
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I went from 40/0/40 manual cloth seats in my '93 P71 to a 50/50 power leather bench from a GM and it was plug-and-play. The power wire was already there and just plugged right in. All the controls were on the seats themselves so they didn't need anything else from the car.
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Jan 18, 2017 21:17
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Looking into this myself, as I've got the split bench in my '10 CVPI, and the driver's side bolster is worn to poo poo. Wanting to go to buckets, but haven't found any I can get for a price yet.
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Jan 19, 2017 00:44
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Anyone else have paint issues? The paint on my roof, rear deck and c pillars is starting to chip and peel. The car is a 2003 with 122k on it, runs great and I've maintained it but I'm trying to decide if it's worth taking it to a professional to fix the paint or if I should sand the bad areas and rattle can it with touch up paint. Also what else would any of you drive if you're panther went kaput? I feel like an old man because I hate every new car I see, I honestly don't know what I'd replace my Grand Marquis with when the time came. Nothing drives like it.
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Jan 30, 2017 04:54
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When mine died, I replaced it with a 1989 Volvo 740 wagon, and that was 10 years ago. No regrets, gonna drive it til I die. gently caress new cars with no corners, tiny windows and high beltlines, and "pedestrian-safe" front ends. That last one still blows my loving mind.
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Jan 30, 2017 16:31
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Huggable Bear King posted:Anyone else have paint issues? The paint on my roof, rear deck and c pillars is starting to chip and peel. The car is a 2003 with 122k on it, runs great and I've maintained it but I'm trying to decide if it's worth taking it to a professional to fix the paint or if I should sand the bad areas and rattle can it with touch up paint. My '05 has relatively small paint peel issues on the roof and a few other small spots here and there. Not the wholesale swaths of missing paint I've seen on others, but very noticeable still. Going to get after it with the Duplicolor touch up spray when it's warm again. edit: This is the biggest spot:  (spot towards the center near the antenna hole is bird poop.) edit2: right click and open. My hosting is stupid with HTTPS. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 00:19 on Jan 31, 2017 |
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Jan 31, 2017 00:15
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Splizwarf posted:When mine died, I replaced it with a 1989 Volvo 740 wagon, and that was 10 years ago. No regrets, gonna drive it til I die. gently caress new cars with no corners, tiny windows and high beltlines, and "pedestrian-safe" front ends. That last one still blows my loving mind. Oh cool, that's something to consider. I really want a G body El Camino for some stupid reason but people want too much for them and I'm not sure about dally driving a 30 year old GM product. Nothing new has any character and there's too much computer poo poo in the dashboards. Darchangel posted:My '05 has relatively small paint peel issues on the roof and a few other small spots here and there. Not the wholesale swaths of missing paint I've seen on others, but very noticeable still. Going to get after it with the Duplicolor touch up spray when it's warm again. Ah yes, this is exactly what is happening to mine. Same color paint too. Must be a factory defect, I guess I'll go the same route you're going in the spring. As long as it looks OK from 10 feet away and keeps the rust at bay I'm happy.
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Jan 31, 2017 02:48
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nm, they're gone. Any ideas what might be causing the transmission not to shift when under heavy throttle? And I don't mean slow to shift, but would stick in first until you got out of it and eased back into it. Maksimus54 fucked around with this message at 23:43 on Jan 31, 2017 |
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Jan 31, 2017 23:32
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Huggable Bear King posted:Oh cool, that's something to consider. I really want a G body El Camino for some stupid reason but people want too much for them and I'm not sure about dally driving a 30 year old GM product. Nothing new has any character and there's too much computer poo poo in the dashboards. It is a defect, especially in the white. Other carmakers had similar problems with low-VOC paint and primer, then water-bourne stuff, as I recall, though I'm pretty sure most other manufacturers fixed it back in the '90s. I've seen P71s with great swaths of paint just missing.
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Jan 31, 2017 23:59
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Huggable Bear King posted:Anyone else have paint issues? The paint on my roof, rear deck and c pillars is starting to chip and peel. The car is a 2003 with 122k on it, runs great and I've maintained it but I'm trying to decide if it's worth taking it to a professional to fix the paint or if I should sand the bad areas and rattle can it with touch up paint. My '03 has a couple of flaky paint/rust spots on the hood and decklid, but it's not the stock paint (all-black respray over this, idk if done by the flipper or the original owner on selling it out of service -- probably the former, I know they painted the Mustangs decently in-house before auctioning them.) Of course, Fords have had problems with peeling clearcoat on the top surfaces since forever, I thought they'd fixed it but maybe not. Just shoot flat black/flat body color Rustoleum on the panels with issues. Totally not worth having it done professionally. Also if you do flat black, paint the wheels red for the old-school hotrod look. quote:Also what else would any of you drive if you're panther went kaput? I feel like an old man because I hate every new car I see, I honestly don't know what I'd replace my Grand Marquis with when the time came. Nothing drives like it.  It was my first choice before the cop car, but my banker balked at $5000 for a 20-year-old car -- but it was owned by a mechanic and was in perfect interior condition (nigh unheard of for a '96 GM product even when new, amirite? ) and already had all the cheap/easy go-fast mods (K&N filter, hockey puck in place of the intake muffler, better exhaust, etc.)Or, if I could afford the gas, some early-'70s Ford wagon or Ranchero with a 460, or equivalent El Camino (the one that looked like a Chevelle, '70-'72-ish?). Or best-case, a first-gen Marauder (a Galaxie 500 with more Lincoln-styled ends), '60s NASCAR style. Preferably a '65 convertible with black paint and black chrome and black leather and every time you try to operate one of these weird black controls that are labelled in black on a black background, a little black light lights up black to let you know you've done it (this is the picture I fell in love with the car over, but this one's in drat SWEDEN and the guy will never sell anyway):  But a coupe will suffice.  Or a white sedan with blue interior, probably better for Texas summers in those days before A/C was really A Thing (ofc, I've had ... most of my cars without A/C either because it wasn't an option or bc the compressor exploded and I couldn't afford the Freon -- my current P71 is black with charcoal interior and no A/C [I've replaced the compressor to have the pulley, but can't afford the charging, and my dad is only licensed for residential systems so doesn't have the hoses for 134a], I can deal with it. I very nearly bought one just like this once, but it was sold the day before I could get the money. It has a name, the Frigidoom, because seriously it looks like a drat refrigerator (and ideally would have a Cammer in it, hence the "doom" bit, but the one I looked at only had a 4v 390):  Also that one was slightly bigger than the '65 Lincoln, amusingly. And the '65 Lincoln is almost exactly the same size as a last-model Panther (like within an inch or three in every dimension, but slab-sided and thin walls so it looks smaller -- I've seen a '64 Lincoln up close at a cruise nite and it seemed huge next to all the other old cars, but driving beside one on the road it seemed smaller than I remembered) Maksimus54 posted:Any ideas what might be causing the transmission not to shift when under heavy throttle? And I don't mean slow to shift, but would stick in first until you got out of it and eased back into it. Could be worse, I used to have a '71 Chevy with the 2-speed OG auto, whatever it was called -- it shifted around 60mph at WOT unless I did the double-tap to force it to shift earlier. Also it had the engine (307 V8) that really didn't like high revs, so always fun wondering if it would poo poo a rod before it shifted. So either something's wrong with the transmission, or you're a wimp and won't stay in it long enough -- apparently the 4.6L OHC can go to 6.5-7k before parts start falling out the sides. And if the transmission is hosed up and won't upshift, you should probs be okay for very inefficient city driving. And if it does shift when you lift, well, it's still workable, that's basically what you have to do with a manual.
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Feb 2, 2017 00:58
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Delivery McGee posted:
3/4 to full throttle. Car would not accelerate any further, think it topped out at 37 or so in first so it wasn't me wimping out, it just plain wouldn't shift. Car was a 96 towncar for reference. If you babied it the darn thing shifted nice and smooth. Anywho, the car is gone now, I was just curious if there was a shift solenoid or something known to go bad in those transmissions.
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Feb 2, 2017 02:00
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I had that happen a few times in a 5.4L F-150 I was manually shifting when I was a stupid kid. If I waited until the last 500 RPM to shift it would just sit there and make weird noises until I backed off the gas for a bit. Never had that happen on my Crown Vic or Thunderbird, even though in theory they're all using basically the same transmission (technically an AODE in the Crown Vic, but AODE vs. 4R70W isn't really a huge difference).
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Feb 2, 2017 04:41
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Delivery McGee posted:
It was a warmish day yesterday so I took a rattle can of touch up paint to a few of the effected areas. it doesn't look bad from ten feet away but I'll need to go back and sand it more where it was peeling. For a 15 year old car this is definitely the way to go, I can live with it not being perfect I just don't want it to rust. Thanks! The old cars you posted are great. I'd love to daily drive something like that but the salt in the winter would probably eat it alive. There are a lot of cool 70's cars I've found, like a Lincoln Mark V for $1200. The only thing that stops me from picking something like that up is it would eat fuel and drive me crazy with vacuum lines. Would make a cool project someday though.
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Feb 4, 2017 03:00
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Delivery McGee posted:Or, if I could afford the gas, some early-'70s Ford wagon or Ranchero with a 460, or equivalent El Camino (the one that looked like a Chevelle, '70-'72-ish?). Not to be too pedantic, but all El Caminos after '64 looked like Chevelles (or Malibus, when the Chevelle name disappeared.) '59-'63 just looked like a Chevy full-size of the time. quote:Preferably a '65 convertible with black paint and black chrome and black leather and every time you try to operate one of these weird black controls that are labelled in black on a black background, a little black light lights up black to let you know you've done it quote:I've replaced the compressor to have the pulley, but can't afford the charging, and my dad is only licensed for residential systems so doesn't have the hoses for 134a The MHVAC technician license is like $30, and the test is online and open book. Also, you can buy 134a and the hoses without a license. No one checks at the auto parts store/Harbor Freight. fake edit: $20: http://www.macsw.org/WEB/MACS/Secti...dd-27fd9b9153f6 quote:Chevy with the 2-speed OG auto, whatever it was called Powerglide. Had a '68 El Camino with one, and a 327. I should have kept that car, but young and stupid.
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Feb 8, 2017 21:21
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Darchangel posted:Powerglide. Had a '68 El Camino with one, and a 327. I should have kept that car, but young and stupid. An El Camino might be light enough to be fun with that combo, but my Impala had that drivetrain combo originally and I'm glad it's a 350/350 now. That extra stroke and extra gear really help it un-rear end.
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Feb 8, 2017 23:31
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I found out that only a month after I bought my '87 S Wagon, another guy my age in town bought an '85 LX Sedan. We're now an impromptu 1st gen Panther fan club. We're also using mine as a test bed to figure out how to poke around on everything before we tear into his, as he's a lot more wary about digging deep into it.   He's got the 5.8L police package motor, and I've only got the standard 5.0L.
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Feb 9, 2017 01:27
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 There was a wagon version of my first car? Holy poo poo, hello craigslist.
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Feb 9, 2017 03:38
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Splizwarf posted:
Not only that, but the tailgate can either swing down or out.
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Feb 9, 2017 04:17
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