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Holy poo poo I'm stupid. That was exactly it. Also within 5 minutes of posting the battery finally died completely, so at least half the problem solved itself. e: it never occurred to me that the alarm would trigger when the battery got low, but I guess it makes a sort of sense.
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Feb 2, 2017 16:37
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Battery died within 3 years on a new car? 
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Feb 2, 2017 17:32
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By died I meant went flat enough to shut off the alarm. With a jump start and leaving it running for a while it seems happy again. The only slightly worrying thing is that the fan seems to be going full blast even when the engine is turned off. I hope I haven't hosed it up somehow when I was playing with fuses. e: It happened again. I think the fan thing is draining the battery. Wolfsbane fucked around with this message at 18:34 on Feb 2, 2017 |
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Feb 2, 2017 17:55
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Michael Scott posted:Battery died within 3 years on a new car? Seems legit to me, but three years is a long lifespan for any battery here in AZ. I replaced the one in my 2013 CR-V in the summer of 2015, and I won't be surprised if I have to replace it again this summer. With that said, if the fan is running non-stop with the engine off, that's definitely a problem. Some cars will run the fan for a short time after shutting the engine off if things are really hot, but it's more likely that your fan is stuck on for some reason. Could be a sensor issue or a relay issue.
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Feb 2, 2017 18:43
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IOwnCalculus posted:Seems legit to me, but three years is a long lifespan for any battery here in AZ. I replaced the one in my 2013 CR-V in the summer of 2015, and I won't be surprised if I have to replace it again this summer. Should be able to pull the connector to the temp sensor and see the fan switches off. Easy test/bodge to keep the car running until you get it replaced.
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Feb 2, 2017 19:00
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http://imgur.com/a/E0y6M Someone draw me an mspaint arrow or something, I cannot find the fucker. I can barely recognise anything in the engine, it's all just sheets of black plastic. It's neither of the two plugs on the bottom right of the second image. Apparently this is supposed to be helpful: http://imgur.com/a/BI1Hy e: is it the one next to the earthing point? Also while I'm ranting, why is there no single fuse to turn off the fucker? e2: more helpful than my lovely photos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iHo0d9fCLxs Wolfsbane fucked around with this message at 20:41 on Feb 2, 2017 |
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Feb 2, 2017 20:30
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 Looks like it is inline with the spark plugs. Is that one next to the engine lifting loop?
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Feb 2, 2017 20:54
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Let's find out... e: signs point to no. Looking at it more, I think it's all hidden underneath that giant plastic hose (?) next to the battery. Not getting to that without more engine disassembly than I'm comfortable with. I ended up just unclipping the battery terminal. Hopefully the alarm doesn't go off at 5am, and the car doesn't mind having the battery disconnected overnight. Thanks for your help. Wolfsbane fucked around with this message at 21:08 on Feb 2, 2017 |
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Feb 2, 2017 20:58
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I have a 1999 Buick Regal and it came with a set of 15 inch tires winter tires which are under-sized for my vehicle, but have been pretty good to me for the last couple of years. My tire guys always crank the PSI on these tires to 40 in the rear and 44 on the front due to the fact that they're under-sized, and I've never really cared much because I haven't had any issues and I don't know any better. When I went in for an oil change today, they were pretty alarmed and recommended that I lower the PSI on all of my tires to the mid-thirties. They also remarked that the tires were wearing unevenly due to the over-inflation (never noticed, to be honest). What's the right answer, goons?
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Feb 2, 2017 21:16
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Grimes posted:I have a 1999 Buick Regal and it came with a set of 15 inch tires winter tires which are under-sized for my vehicle, but have been pretty good to me for the last couple of years. My tire guys always crank the PSI on these tires to 40 in the rear and 44 on the front due to the fact that they're under-sized, and I've never really cared much because I haven't had any issues and I don't know any better. When I went in for an oil change today, they were pretty alarmed and recommended that I lower the PSI on all of my tires to the mid-thirties. They also remarked that the tires were wearing unevenly due to the over-inflation (never noticed, to be honest). Overinflating them will indeed make them wear faster down then center. It also makes the tires more bouncy, putting more load on your shock absorbers and making the ride harsher. If you're happy with the ride and don't mind replacing them prematurely, then don't worry about it.
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Feb 2, 2017 21:19
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Never go above the maximum pressure on the sidewall. That's the maximum the tire is designed to handle, and I'm betting 44 PSI is a bit above that. Most passenger car tires I've seen have a maximum of 35 PSI.Wolfsbane posted:I ended up just unclipping the battery terminal. Hopefully the alarm doesn't go off at 5am, and the car doesn't mind having the battery disconnected overnight. It's not a long term solution by any means, as from what I've been able to dig up, Citroens have very finicky electronics. But that's what I would do until you can get it to a shop. The alarm has its own backup battery, so it may still go off.
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Feb 2, 2017 21:48
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How the gently caress do I find flywheels that would fit on my car? I know the bolt diameter and PCD, and the ring gear diameter and teeth. Is there any resource online to translate this into a list of compatible flywheels?
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Feb 2, 2017 22:28
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Would make more sense to remove the fuse that controls the fan. Even if you can't drive like this, at least your car will have a working alarm at night.
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Feb 2, 2017 22:32
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My 2006 Scion xB makes a sort of hissing or grinding noise when I hit 2,000 RPMs. The noise comes from the front, passenger side of my car, and only at exactly 2,000 RPMs. Any higher or lower and there's no sound. My car has about 145,000 miles on it and is regularly maintained. It recently passed a smog test and some work on the front fender. Any ideas on what could be causing the noise? My car runs fine otherwise, but I don't want to ignore a potential problem.
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Feb 2, 2017 22:35
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Never go above the maximum pressure on the sidewall. That's the maximum the tire is designed to handle, and I'm betting 44 PSI is a bit above that. Most passenger car tires I've seen have a maximum of 35 PSI. I've had 3 cars with 205-75-14 tires, and their sidewall max is usually around 45 psi, because it's a common size for both small 80s trucks, and heavy 80s passenger cars  . For some reason (maybe they're a common trailer tire size) a ton of them have heavy load ratings, like C or D, which is like 50 and 65psi for that size I think.Don't know his size exactly, but always a possibility. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 22:45 on Feb 2, 2017 |
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Feb 2, 2017 22:38
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I stand corrected then. I've owned plenty of stuff that used similar size tires, and even on my F-150, they showed a max of 35 PSI. But that was a 1980 F-150 that took car-size tires. v v (I think it had 195/75R14 when I got it)KittenofDoom posted:My 2006 Scion xB makes a sort of hissing or grinding noise when I hit 2,000 RPMs. The noise comes from the front, passenger side of my car, and only at exactly 2,000 RPMs. Any higher or lower and there's no sound. Open the hood and look for the air filter housing. Make sure the cover is clipped on tightly, it's possible it got knocked loose during the bodywork or wasn't reattached properly. It's also possible they had removed the housing for the bodywork, and in the process, left some of the intake resonator pieces off. Those pieces generally live inside the fender, and are responsible for quieting down intake noise. edit: I just looked up a picture of your engine bay and realized the air filter is on the drivers side.  Still worth looking for, though.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 22:44 on Feb 2, 2017 |
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Feb 2, 2017 22:40
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:I stand corrected then. I've owned plenty of stuff that used similar size tires, and even on my F-150, they showed a max of 35 PSI. But that was a 1980 F-150 that took car-size tires. v
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Feb 2, 2017 23:01
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KittenofDoom posted:Thank you! In a worst-case scenario is this something I should bring my car into a shop for? I'd prefer to avoid spending money unnecessarily. Are there any specific conditions that make the noise louder? All lights and fans on, engine temp, wheel turned, etc? Front passenger side has all your belts and timing chain, so it's worth looking into. But again, you have a timing chain, so unless it's also rattling and running rough at idle... E: when you say hissing, is it hissing high pitched, like a tea kettle, or hissing low pitched, like a gas stove? The Door Frame fucked around with this message at 23:22 on Feb 2, 2017 |
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Feb 2, 2017 23:19
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spog posted:Would make more sense to remove the fuse that controls the fan. I don't believe there is a single fuse for the fan, although I'd be happy to be proved wrong. Owners manual is here(pdf), fuse diagrams start at page 191. The maxi-fuses look like it, but they're hidden somewhere and you're not supposed to mess with them.
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Feb 3, 2017 00:41
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The Door Frame posted:Are there any specific conditions that make the noise louder? All lights and fans on, engine temp, wheel turned, etc?
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Feb 3, 2017 00:57
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Pomp and Circumcized posted:How the gently caress do I find flywheels that would fit on my car? I know the bolt diameter and PCD, and the ring gear diameter and teeth. Is there any resource online to translate this into a list of compatible flywheels? What engine and transmission you trying to mate?
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Feb 3, 2017 01:38
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KittenofDoom posted:It sounds close to either a hissing or grinding noise; I'm not sure which. Maybe close to the sound a steam room makes? It's most noticeable when I'm driving continuously at 2,000 RPM or slowly build up to it. If I speed up quickly past that I don't hear it at all.
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Feb 3, 2017 02:51
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KittenofDoom posted:After listening more closely it sounds like something is rubbing against something else? I'll check to see if there's a loose belt or something. Could be a plastic cover or splash guard or something that rubs on something it shouldn't. I don't suppose it's a wheel bearing that's starting to grumble? That would only happen at certain ground speeds, though, so I suppose not.
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Feb 3, 2017 03:05
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I would be inclined to think a pulley bearing instead of wheel, but those would be really high pitched on that little engine. And would get louder with use I think Yu-Gi-Ho!'s original idea of making sure all of the plastic is actually secured might still be the right one
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Feb 3, 2017 03:47
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1970 Volvo 164. I hear an intermittent, but frequent, noise from (I'm pretty sure) the front end when moving. It's sort of like a "vrum vrum vrum" that speeds up/slows down with the car. I found some play in the front right wheel so I replaced the bearings on that wheel. There's a little play on the left too. Before I replace the left bearings too, is there anything else I might be forgetting?
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Feb 3, 2017 04:45
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Flat spots on the tires?
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Feb 3, 2017 05:32
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Tie rod end links?
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Feb 3, 2017 05:37
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Rotate your tires and see if the noise follows
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Feb 3, 2017 05:56
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Here comes GobiasIndustries with another stupid question: my car (2008 g6) has foldable rear seats but one of the levers in the trunk (plastic) is broken clean off where it meets the enclosure. As a broad question, where can I find the part #s for small stuff like this so I can order 'em on ebay or whatnot?
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Feb 3, 2017 08:25
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A DIY junkyard - Pink n Pull is the big one where I'm at, but there's a lot of regional yard chains that follow the same idea - is your best bet for that kind of stuff. If you've never been to one, you bring your own tools, pay a small entrance fee (a few bucks usually), and pay for anything you carry out. Expect them to check any bags, tool boxes, etc on your way out (so empty out anything that might look like something you pulled from a car before you go in!), but they won't make you empty your pockets (usually). For something like that, I'd expect a phillips screwdriver and a basic 1/4" or 3/8" drive socket set to be everything you need. You might also check rockauto.com under their body section, but their focus is mostly mechanical bits. The parts from a 04-2010 Chevy Malibu or Saturn Aura will probably work, if it helps. They're pretty much the same car. You might also check ebay for something like "rear seat release g6 malibu" or something like that, and see if someone is selling what you want. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:00 on Feb 3, 2017 |
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Feb 3, 2017 09:55
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Wolfsbane posted:I don't believe there is a single fuse for the fan, although I'd be happy to be proved wrong. Owners manual is here(pdf), fuse diagrams start at page 191. The maxi-fuses look like it, but they're hidden somewhere and you're not supposed to mess with them. Out of curiosity, why are maxi-fuses 'dealer only'?
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Feb 3, 2017 10:23
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Doesn't that concept break a bunch of those "right to repair" laws? I don't know if there's an EU equivalent, but something as simple and important as a fusebox that's designed to be inconvenient and marked dealer-only sounds non-kosher E: assuming EU due to the Citroën brand, but I don't know how common they are in the world... The Door Frame fucked around with this message at 10:49 on Feb 3, 2017 |
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Feb 3, 2017 10:46
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quote:* The maxi-fuses provide additional protection for the electrical systems. All work on the maxi-fuses must be carried out by a CITROËN dealer. I was more thinking about what the danger could be with a maxi fuse, rather than a standard one - that issue didn't cross my mind, but it's an interesting one. EDIT: the only other section that says 'must' is seatbelts, everything else is a 'consult your dealer' quote:In order to be effective, a seat belt must: spog fucked around with this message at 10:57 on Feb 3, 2017 |
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Feb 3, 2017 10:53
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:His/her car calls for 5w30. 5w40 isn't as readily available as 5w30 (it's at every parts store, but if you want a quick top off, you may not find it at your corner gas station). And 10w40 will be thicker when hot than 10w30 - they should be the same thickness when cold. The last thing you want on a cold start is thicker oil - you want it to get circulating ASAP. The seals OP described aren't submerged when the engine is off, either. If anything, if their only goal was to reduce leaks via changing the weight of oil, 10w30 would be a better choice vs the 5w30 their engine required when new (I'm not advocating changing to 10w30). Welp, that's what I get when posting when I haven't had my coffee. Not only do I use 5w40 instead of 10, I mixed up hot and cold in my head. So yeah, thicker when hot is what I meant. In my case the added thickness does help a bit because my engine just runs a bit smoother on it. Going with the manufacturers specification is never a bad idea but there are certainly cases where a different oil weight can be beneficial. spankmeister fucked around with this message at 11:11 on Feb 3, 2017 |
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Feb 3, 2017 11:08
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Oh, yeah, that's a much more pressing question in this situation There's already been a dead battery and now an electric component won't turn off, you weren't asking about the special fuses because it sounds like it's unfriendly towards consumers... Although I am getting curious enough to hunt down the answer to the weird way that I interpreted that question...
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Feb 3, 2017 11:16
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spog posted:I was more thinking about what the danger could be with a maxi fuse, rather than a standard one - that issue didn't cross my mind, but it's an interesting one. I guess enough amps to do some serious damage but other than that, they're just big fuses. Sooo just disconnect battery negative and replace the fuses with the same type and rating. I don't see any reason to go to the dealer unless you're completely incompetent.
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Feb 3, 2017 11:18
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Yeah, going by the relatively little info I could find, maxi fuses are only labeled "DEALER ONLY" because they're up to 60amps and in a location that makes removal/replacement difficult. Supposedly, there's little clearance for a fuse puller and there can be loose wires in the surrounding area that they don't want to be damaged when haphazardly removing fuses. There was nothing I could find to confirm the space or loose wire issues brought up by some forum poster, so I couldn't tell you if that's as big of an issue as the manual seems to think it is Disconnecting the battery and checking out the fuses themselves couldn't hurt As for right to repair, I learned some cool stuff about American law, but as far as the EU is concerned, that wording is not against the letter of the law regarding passenger vehicles. There may have been more stuff in the separate emissions law.or commercial vehicle laws, but I got a satisfactory enough answer for my own curiosity. Inconvenient and unfriendly as the maxi fuses are, that manual blurb probably isn't even against the stated spirit of this collection of laws, since the information about their location, specification, and function is available. Save for an ocean between myself and a physical Citroën DS3, there is nothing that actually obstructed me from learning how to replace a maxi fuse or what to replace a specific fuse on that panel with quote:Easy and clear access to information on vehicle repair and maintenance (RMI) is key to guaranteeing free competition on the vehicle aftermarket. Manufacturers must ensure that independent operators have easy, restriction-free, and standardised access to information on the repair and maintenance of vehicles. Discrimination with respect to authorised dealers and repair workshops is not allowed. ~*The More You Know*~ 
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Feb 3, 2017 12:06
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I noticed recently that the two ground straps on the underside of my engine have corroded into basically nothing (I live in NY, lotsa road salt) Can I replace them with stainless steel so they don't rot out again? I can make my own from some 1/8" stainless cable that have that I can weld to some stainless washers. I know steel is a lot less conductive than copper but I didn't know if it mattered for the ground straps, considering I've basically been driving without them for who knows how long.
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Feb 3, 2017 14:29
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dyne posted:I noticed recently that the two ground straps on the underside of my engine have corroded into basically nothing (I live in NY, lotsa road salt) Well, copper straps wouldn't corrode (at least not very fast), so they were probably iron to begin with. SS is probably fine. The difference in resistivity is unimportant.
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Feb 3, 2017 15:39
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`Nemesis posted:Rotate your tires and see if the noise follows I'll try this and look more closely at the tie rods. thanks.
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Feb 3, 2017 15:43
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