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Why not trace outlines onto painters' tape?
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Feb 2, 2017 23:55
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Vallejo makes a liquid mask
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Feb 3, 2017 00:48
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Irate Tree posted:Also, a question about varnish; do I apply it like an undercoat - short, controlled bursts - or do I just spray back and forth continuously? Anyone? 
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Feb 3, 2017 00:54
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Irate Tree posted:Anyone? The latter. Short, controlled bursts can result in uneven layers, and in the case of gloss can sometimes result in pooling.
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Feb 3, 2017 01:01
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Slimnoid posted:The latter. Short, controlled bursts can result in uneven layers, and in the case of gloss can sometimes result in pooling. Good to know!
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Feb 3, 2017 01:41
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Slimnoid posted:The latter. Short, controlled bursts can result in uneven layers, and in the case of gloss can sometimes result in pooling. Thanks!
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Feb 3, 2017 01:49
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You'll still want to check for pooling either way, mind; thats just the rub of self-leveling liquids.
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Feb 3, 2017 02:40
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Bistromatic posted:Progress on my Dropfleet Commander stuff: Your work makes me want to paint tiny space ships again.
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Feb 3, 2017 03:10
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Bistromatic posted:Progress on my Dropfleet Commander stuff: I'd not seen this since you did your first test ship. The fleet together looks awesome.
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Feb 3, 2017 03:12
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Crosspost from the AoS thread: Still too lazy to make a lightbox, but I painted a rat ogre   I tried to use a color triad instead of washes on the skin and it turned out to mixed results. Reaper Rosy skin is kinda chalky and I'm not sure what to do about it. Tried to drybrush the fur but I think the highlight was too close to the fur. Overall pretty satisfied with what I was trying. I wanted the back scars to look fresh and wet in comparison to the stitching, and while I could stand to clean up the stitches, I'm pretty happy with the back.
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Feb 3, 2017 03:44
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mango sentinel posted:I wanted the back scars to look fresh and wet in comparison to the stitching, and while I could stand to clean up the stitches, I'm pretty happy with the back. Maybe glaze the edges of the wounds with a very dilute red a couple times to make the skin look inflamed and hot?
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Feb 3, 2017 03:59
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Lightly thinned Tamiya Clear Red also does an excellent job of looking like fresh blood.
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Feb 3, 2017 04:02
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Got my replacement kit today and all the paints are good. I have some zombies and a skeleton to work on this weekend, I will post the results.
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Feb 3, 2017 12:45
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What's the "GW way" for painting black so it can be shaded/highlighted? I'm about to start on a BB team and will be trying batch painting as I want to get all the colour blocks down by next week. Having just bought some pipettes and dropper bottles I figure I should probably just premix some colours, and want to start with black leather boots. I was thinking - 1:1 Abaddon Black and Dark Reaper, with some medium to thin it a little? Then I can use Agrax or Nuln Oil to shade it and then Dark Reaper to highlight.
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Feb 3, 2017 12:49
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glitchkrieg posted:What's the "GW way" for painting black so it can be shaded/highlighted? I'm about to start on a BB team and will be trying batch painting as I want to get all the colour blocks down by next week. Having just bought some pipettes and dropper bottles I figure I should probably just premix some colours, and want to start with black leather boots. I don't know about the GW way but I tend to start with a very dark gray, never an actual black. Wash that with a black wash and then proceed to go to slightly lighter grays until you're happy. But go slowly in your progression of lightness, you can jump from nice subtle changes to something that looks way too stark even though you are still only in a medium gray range of you aren't careful.
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Feb 3, 2017 13:16
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So I'm building a Space Wolves dreadnought for a friend and I'm wondering what's the best way to magnetize it so it can be used as a Murderfang and Bjorn as well? I could only really find one really awful Youtube guide on how to do it from a casual search.
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Feb 3, 2017 13:19
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glitchkrieg posted:What's the "GW way" for painting black so it can be shaded/highlighted? I'm about to start on a BB team and will be trying batch painting as I want to get all the colour blocks down by next week. Having just bought some pipettes and dropper bottles I figure I should probably just premix some colours, and want to start with black leather boots. Don't bother shading it. Abaddon Black over black primer, edge highlight Dark Reaper-> extreme edge highlight Fenrisian Grey.
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Feb 3, 2017 14:33
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Speaking of painting black, I just finished up a test model for my new Sylvan Elf army and was hoping to find some feedback. This is the first time I've ever painted black so prominently on a model, and it's been difficult trying to find other colors in the scheme to complement it. Theme is meant to be a dead/destroyed forest. Any suggestions on how I can improve on any aspects of the model? Thanks in advance. 
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Feb 3, 2017 14:46
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Does anyone here travel with their brushes and miniatures tools? I'm trying to figure out a way to effectively transport brushes, clippers, glue, a pin vise and bits, etc, in a compact case, and I am having the damnedest time finding anything that I think will work. I picked up a pencil case that is not too terrible for holding the tools, but it's just a hair too short for the brushes. I've also looked at brush cases, and most of them don't have the space for the additional tools on top of usually being 12-14" long, due to being made for artist's brushes. I could carry everything in one of my Army Transport or Battlefoam cases, but that is a big bag to carry when I've only got a couple of minis to paint. I'm also not looking for some suitcase-sized painting station - something around the size of a messenger bag that could also hold miniatures and paints would be ideal. Any thoughts?
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Feb 3, 2017 15:35
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Deino posted:Speaking of painting black, I just finished up a test model for my new Sylvan Elf army and was hoping to find some feedback. That looks damned good.
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Feb 3, 2017 15:37
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Use a pencil case and/or a magic "fat pack" box. Lots of LGSs will have just the boxes for sale for ~$2 and they fit Vallejo paint bottles perfectly, and of course can be used for other things. Look for my first post in this thread since I was asking what the heck my "brush case" was and it turned out to be a watch case which is also very good at holding W&N7 brushes.
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Feb 3, 2017 15:40
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Avenging Dentist posted:Why not trace outlines onto painters' tape? DiHK posted:Vallejo makes a liquid mask I found a thing called "frisked film" that is apparently what I was looking for. I'll buy a small pack and try it, but if it doesn't go well, I'll try one of these methods.
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Feb 3, 2017 15:57
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Chill la Chill posted:Use a pencil case and/or a magic "fat pack" box. Lots of LGSs will have just the boxes for sale for ~$2 and they fit Vallejo paint bottles perfectly, and of course can be used for other things. Look for my first post in this thread since I was asking what the heck my "brush case" was and it turned out to be a watch case which is also very good at holding W&N7 brushes. I do remember your post, and I thought the watch case was a great idea for brushes. I'm looking for more of an "all in one" solution though, if at all possible. I would love to just grab it and go out the door, rather than have to take two or three different boxes. As for the fat pack, I don't really want everything jumbled in the box.
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Feb 3, 2017 16:01
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berzerkmonkey posted:I do remember your post, and I thought the watch case was a great idea for brushes. I'm looking for more of an "all in one" solution though, if at all possible. I would love to just grab it and go out the door, rather than have to take two or three different boxes. As for the fat pack, I don't really want everything jumbled in the box. Perhaps this?  (Replace the pistol with manz and paint. )
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Feb 3, 2017 16:06
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I use a case from a chinese airbrush (one of these) with the blue foam taken out. It houses a roll of files, craft knife, spare blades, glues, clippers, pin vice, brass rod cut to length and a toothbrush for removing plastic/resin dust. It's travelled the world with me for cleaning up hams for assembly.
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Feb 3, 2017 16:07
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Indolent Bastard posted:Perhaps this? I've heard recommendations against weapon cases because people will break into your car/house/hotel room to steal your "guns". Edit: Also thanks for the kind words, that group of spaceships needs to be done by the 18th to run demos at a con so hopefully i'll be posting finished pictures shortly thereafter. Bistromatic fucked around with this message at 16:14 on Feb 3, 2017 |
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Feb 3, 2017 16:10
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berzerkmonkey posted:I do remember your post, and I thought the watch case was a great idea for brushes. I'm looking for more of an "all in one" solution though, if at all possible. I would love to just grab it and go out the door, rather than have to take two or three different boxes. As for the fat pack, I don't really want everything jumbled in the box. Oh, in that case (heh), use a toiletry bag.
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Feb 3, 2017 16:13
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Bistromatic posted:I've heard recommendations against weapon cases because people will break into your car/house/hotel room to steal your "guns". protect your guns by spray painting "DUMB NERD poo poo NOT GUNS" on all your cases
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Feb 3, 2017 16:13
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Bistromatic posted:I've heard recommendations against weapon cases because people will break into your car/house/hotel room to steal your "guns". I know. But if he's got the case with him all the time, or the case is small enough to fit in a shoulder bag or cloth shopping bag it shouldn't be an issue. If you leave sexy looking hard cases out anywhere you are kind of asking for trouble. But a small one that he can tote around should be less problematic. I'd suggest a different style that is less "gun case" looking, but they are less common.
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Feb 3, 2017 16:22
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Deino posted:Speaking of painting black, I just finished up a test model for my new Sylvan Elf army and was hoping to find some feedback. That actually looks good as is, and probably reads very well as "black" from tabletop distance. Nice job! The one thing I might suggest (as an option) is livening up the base a bit with a spot or two of color. For instance, some bits of glowing, smoldering embers if the forest was recently burned, crushed leaves in a pile of ash, partially blackened bones, etc. You don't have to add anything if you want your focus to be on the model, but some variety might break up the sameness on the grey base a little.
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Feb 3, 2017 16:29
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Indolent Bastard posted:(Replace the pistol with manz and paint. )  This is actually a good idea, and I'm not too worried about theft, as this is really just for going back and forth to work. The downside is that I work in a local government building, so I don't know if there will be any sideways glances... TTerrible posted:I use a case from a chinese airbrush (one of these) with the blue foam taken out. It houses a roll of files, craft knife, spare blades, glues, clippers, pin vice, brass rod cut to length and a toothbrush for removing plastic/resin dust. It's travelled the world with me for cleaning up hams for assembly. Chill la Chill posted:Oh, in that case (heh), use a toiletry bag. I had also looked at those Grid It panels, but that didn't really present an all-in-one solution either.
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Feb 3, 2017 16:52
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berzerkmonkey posted:Good point - I was concerned about getting CLP all over my little dudes. Drop it into one of these  Problem solved.
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Feb 3, 2017 16:56
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berzerkmonkey posted:Also a good idea - will it fit brushes though? It'll fit a couple diagonally but I only use it for assembly stuff.
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Feb 3, 2017 16:59
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Cross posting this guy:    
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Feb 3, 2017 17:57
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Darren MacLennan posted:That looks damned good. Dr. Gargunza posted:The one thing I might suggest (as an option) is livening up the base a bit with a spot or two of color. I really appreciate it. I have some Woodland Scenics lichen that i'm going to place sparingly on some of the bases, colored almost the same as the light bone that I'd used on the bow, but I didn't want to put it on before sealing this guy. GuardianOfAsgaard posted:Cross posting this guy:
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Feb 3, 2017 18:03
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SteelMentor posted:Don't bother shading it. Abaddon Black over black primer, edge highlight Dark Reaper-> extreme edge highlight Fenrisian Grey. It's got to be a light primer as I have white and orange to paint on the rest of the minis. I'll use Fenrisian Grey for the extreme highlights though, thanks
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Feb 3, 2017 18:07
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Deino posted:This is really great. Do you use water effects on those blue lenses to make them look so shiny? Or is that all just paint? Cheers! I use gloss varnish after painting them.
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Feb 3, 2017 18:09
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glitchkrieg posted:It's got to be a light primer as I have white and orange to paint on the rest of the minis. I'll use Fenrisian Grey for the extreme highlights though, thanks If you prime with airbrushable primer you could experiment with zenithal priming, where you prime in multiple colors to do the majority of the shading for you. This works better if the orange and white are areas that would reflect or generate light, though.
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Feb 3, 2017 19:26
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Not mine, somebody posted this in a fb page I follow and I thought it looked cool 
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Feb 3, 2017 21:28
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GuardianOfAsgaard posted:Cross posting this guy: This is great, makes me want to paint something mechanical or at least a vehicle. The lenses are especially great.
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Feb 3, 2017 21:46
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