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nielsm posted:Finally admitted to myself that the home-built vise was a massive failure, I think I remember you saying it had very good clamping pressure, what problems did you end up having with it? Falcon2001 posted:Rather than asking y'all every time I have a tools question, is there a decent place to find good reviews of power tools and all that to answer the questions like 'which bandsaw / planer / drill press should I get'? That's a tough one. Most of the tool review websites are Amazon affiliates in disguise, or shills for free tools. I know it's not exactly reliable but I read a lot of verified Amazon reviews, you just have to weed out the BS. You can often tell when someone knows what they are talking about. I also keep an eye out on what other woodworkers are using. If you find someone on a blog or video pushing a certain tool, it's probably a shill.
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Feb 2, 2017 23:44
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Falcon2001 posted:Rather than asking y'all every time I have a tools question, is there a decent place to find good reviews of power tools and all that to answer the questions like 'which bandsaw / planer / drill press should I get'? Magazine roundups? There's no real "consensus" on much aside from the DeWalt 735 being the sort of "baseline lunchbox planer all others are measured against"
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Feb 2, 2017 23:56
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PWM posted a basic hand tool stock prep video ft Chris-sama. Planing down the hump on the back side was a new strategy to me. I've also never planed down to a measured thickness, so that was neat to see.
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Feb 3, 2017 00:42
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Since I built the arcade cabinet over the winter, I've been reading about woodworking and watching a lot of videos. I dug out some of my grandpa's tools just to see what I had to start with. 3 planes, one of them is still looking very clean! Restoring the other 2 will be a good place to start. Then a few other random bits that could be useful. I have access to a ton of modern power tools through my dad, but these old ones will actually be mine now! My grandpa died about 30 years ago and no one in my family has done woodworking (other than construction) besides him. 
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Feb 3, 2017 05:20
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GEMorris posted:Magazine roundups? There's no real "consensus" on much aside from the DeWalt 735 being the sort of "baseline lunchbox planer all others are measured against" Does that generally indicate that there aren't a lot of awful choices, or is it simply that awful choices are what you pick away from the main body and the leftovers are generally fine?
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Feb 3, 2017 05:52
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This thread doesn't move fast, just ask. I'm about to blow up this thread with a billion dumb questions, so feel free to dilute it.
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Feb 3, 2017 06:03
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Antiquated Pants posted:Since I built the arcade cabinet over the winter, I've been reading about woodworking and watching a lot of videos. I dug out some of my grandpa's tools just to see what I had to start with. Sup "new-to-you plane" bro?  How do you like that Dremel stand, btw? Is it worth me building a pair of Schwartz sawbenches before I start on my Nicholson build? Also will I be able to do any work holding I need to do for the bench build just using clamps and appropriate surfaces, or would getting a small benchtop vice be worth it?
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Feb 3, 2017 06:17
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Antiquated Pants posted:3 planes, one of them is still looking very clean! Restoring the other 2 will be a good place to start. Then a few other random bits that could be useful. I have access to a ton of modern power tools through my dad, but these old ones will actually be mine now! My grandpa died about 30 years ago and no one in my family has done woodworking (other than construction) besides him. Hey nice! I restored my greatuncle's old #5 and it wasn't too terribly hard and works like a dream now.
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Feb 3, 2017 06:21
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Hubis posted:Sup "new-to-you plane" bro? Sup!  I haven't had a chance to use the Dremel press yet, I just set it up! It can rotate and lock too so you can use it as a grinding wheel/shaper. It has a telescoping stand so I can hang the Dremel when I'm using the precision shaft extension. It was a gift from my sister, I'm pretty excited to use it! It'll tide me over until I get my hands on a real drill press.
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Feb 3, 2017 07:38
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Falcon2001 posted:Rather than asking y'all every time I have a tools question, is there a decent place to find good reviews of power tools and all that to answer the questions like 'which bandsaw / planer / drill press should I get'? My answer every time is look for old iron first.
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Feb 3, 2017 08:02
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wormil posted:I think I remember you saying it had very good clamping pressure, what problems did you end up having with it? Only right next to the screw. It was useless for clamping small objects, and the moving jaw bent too much. So "working well" was actually the edge case.
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Feb 3, 2017 08:43
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Hubis posted:Is it worth me building a pair of Schwartz sawbenches before I start on my Nicholson build? Also will I be able to do any work holding I need to do for the bench build just using clamps and appropriate surfaces, or would getting a small benchtop vice be worth it? For what it's worth, I have built several things with just F clamps from the hardware store on some plywood. I think you can get by without it. Have you found 2"x12" boards already? Where'd you get them? Tres Burritos posted:Psshhhtt, so far from Menards, Siwek (which I may revisit now that I sort of know what I'm doing) and believe it or not, this guy since he's local and cuts trees up. I keep meaning to stop by Youngblood since it's on my way to / from work, but I've got enough wood and junk already. I've driven by Forest Products a couple of times and have always wondered at what they sold, maybe I'll give it a looksee. I found Youngblood was much more contractor and professional oriented. They don't help you out there, you just go pick your wood and bring it to the lumber yard office for pricing. No crosscutting as far as I could see (bring your handsaw). They even asked for my company name when I was checking out. Forest Products is aimed at hobbyists, though its selection and quantities are more limited. The owner, Mike, loves to chat and help people out. They crosscut for free. ColdPie fucked around with this message at 13:10 on Feb 3, 2017 |
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Feb 3, 2017 13:07
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 That is a cross cut section of my attic. I would like to add some shelving on the right side. The structure of the (inclined) floor there is 20mm thick OSB sheets laid over 50X150mm rafters (~1meter space between rafters). In the hollows between the rafters there is isolating stone wool. The structure of the roof above is the same, except the rafters are 100X180mm (and possibly the OSB is thinner). The middle section between the two halves of the attic (the "spine" between the 2 yellow blocks) is formed of 3 concrete "walls" that are part of the resistance structure. Around this spine I can almost stand up (185cm tall) so there would be plenty of room to access. I want the shelves to be horizontal (or slightly inclined towards the back) and run from one end to the other of the house (~10 meters long). I'd like two rows of shelves - one at knee height and one around waist height. They shouldn't hold a lot of heavy stuff, more like voluminous but not dense. Think stuff like rollerblades, boxes with Christmas decoration, stuff like that. The problem is that I have no idea how one would go about fixating something horizontal on an angled surface.
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Feb 3, 2017 15:54
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Bloodspike posted:
Two thoughts, depends on the look you want. Get metal brackets made at the correct angle Or attach your shelves on the left with some sort of hinge and have chains/cords on the right to hold it at the correct angle.
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Feb 3, 2017 15:58
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Gounads posted:Two thoughts, depends on the look you want. I'm not sure I understand, can you please draw something or explain better?
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Feb 3, 2017 16:01
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Bloodspike posted:I'm not sure I understand, can you please draw something or explain better? If you attach hinges to both ends of a vertical support, then attach the other half of the hinge to the slanted floor/room, it will automatically have the correct angles on both ends. E: But really you're best off cutting the vertical supports at a correct miter angle. nielsm fucked around with this message at 16:10 on Feb 3, 2017 |
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Feb 3, 2017 16:04
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Bloodspike posted:I'm not sure I understand, can you please draw something or explain better?  Blue = shelf Orange = chain/cord Pink = Hinge edit: oh wait... you want shelving IN the attic, huh? nvm
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Feb 3, 2017 16:11
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Gounads posted:
Yes, just the way you drew it, but shifted up by like twice it's thickness if that makes sense. 
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Feb 3, 2017 16:14
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Hubis posted:
I have a Roubo in my shop and Phone and I have still been using my sawbenches quite a bit on his Nicholson build. If you don't have any bench I'd say the sawbenches are pretty close to "required" Falcon2001 posted:Does that generally indicate that there aren't a lot of awful choices, or is it simply that awful choices are what you pick away from the main body and the leftovers are generally fine? There's definitely a lot of junk out there, but for the most part you get what you pay for. If you want feedback on a specific tool you can ask here or try to find reviews, but generally shop tools are the type of item that is low enough in volume that detailed reviews and roundups don't show up instantly to generate clicks like reviews for consumer electronics or cars do.
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Feb 3, 2017 16:58
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Bloodspike posted:I'd like two rows of shelves - one at knee height and one around waist height. They shouldn't hold a lot of heavy stuff, more like voluminous but not dense. Think stuff like rollerblades, boxes with Christmas decoration, stuff like that. Just buy some purpose-built shelf supports IMO. This is your attic, so it doesn't really matter if it's not aesthetically perfect. I can practically guarantee your local hardware store has shelf supports -- basically triangular brackets made out of sheet metal with holes at appropriate points -- that screw into studs (or into concrete with the right driver and fastener) and can support 100+ pounds apiece. Then just lay boards across the supports to make shelves.
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Feb 3, 2017 17:11
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Just buy some purpose-built shelf supports IMO. This is your attic, so it doesn't really matter if it's not aesthetically perfect. I can practically guarantee your local hardware store has shelf supports -- basically triangular brackets made out of sheet metal with holes at appropriate points -- that screw into studs (or into concrete with the right driver and fastener) and can support 100+ pounds apiece. Then just lay boards across the supports to make shelves. Yeah, something like that. I just need to find something that's at a < 90 degrees angle.
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Feb 3, 2017 17:16
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Bloodspike posted:Yeah, something like that. I just need to find something that's at a < 90 degrees angle. Oh, I see, because you don't have a vertical stud to attach to. ...screw some 2x4s to your rafters, top and bottom. Make your own drat studs.
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Feb 3, 2017 17:18
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So I made some things. Started December 1st, finished yesterday. Bed, 2x night stands, and a tall dresser / chest of drawers. My first real woodworking projects, so I kind of went straight to the deep end. I still need to edge trim the nightstands/bed, but it might be a little while before I get to that. Album: http://imgur.com/a/vCl9w
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Feb 3, 2017 17:21
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Hubis posted:Is it worth me building a pair of Schwartz sawbenches before I start on my Nicholson build? Also will I be able to do any work holding I need to do for the bench build just using clamps and appropriate surfaces, or would getting a small benchtop vice be worth it? Outside of being a complete scrublord and having zero idea of what I'm doing, you'll need some saw benches. Also, try to get the straightest wood possible, it's been a bit of a pain dealing with 6' long boards that are simultaneously high and low in each corner. If you don't have access to a planer, try to get access to one if you can manage it. It's not a deal breaker if you can't, but this bench is probably the nicest thing I'm going to have for a long while. Another note that isn't in the instructions, but is probably worth pursuing: grab a dowel jig for when you do the bench top glue up. I think we put 4 dowels across the entire length of the top, and it made that glue up the easiest thing in the world. Also, inspect all of the iron mounting plates from McMaster Carr. About 20% of mine are banana shaped which was a bit disappointing when attaching the legs to the aprons and watching the legs not be completely flush. BUY HARDENED SCREWS LIKE SPAX OR GRX.
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Feb 3, 2017 17:45
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PSA: Make sure to lube your loving plane soles. I hadn't been doing that before, but just now tried running a cheap candle over it a few times, makes a gigantic difference.
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Feb 3, 2017 18:22
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nielsm posted:PSA: Make sure to lube your loving plane soles. I hadn't been doing that before, but just now tried running a cheap candle over it a few times, makes a gigantic difference. Yeah this times a million, it's a crazy difference and way more than you'd expect thinking about it.
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Feb 3, 2017 18:29
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 This pallet of wood was in my basement when I bought my house. Looks like it's from an old mailbox post, probably pine. Each section is like 18" Is it firewood or worth keeping as scraps? I'm not entirely sure what I'd use it for and it's too big to really work on my tables saw/don't have a band saw.
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Feb 3, 2017 18:38
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MickRaider posted:
 Nothing inherently wrong with keeping them for scrap wood, but I definitely wouldn't use it as firewood - No telling what chemicals may have been used to treat random piles of lumber.
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Feb 3, 2017 19:10
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ColdPie posted:Have you found 2"x12" boards already? Where'd you get them? Phone posted:Outside of being a complete scrublord and having zero idea of what I'm doing, you'll need some saw benches. Also, try to get the straightest wood possible, it's been a bit of a I've yet to source the wood, though the HD website says my local Orange Box has nominal 2"x12" Fir in stock (no Yellow Pine, afaik). I've yet to verify this directly, however. This place is also fairly close and I was considering checking them out first, but they don't seem to list anything that would be obviously appropriate, and the costs/board ft. seem greater (I assume I want the 8/4 stock?) Phone posted:If you don't have access to a planer, try to get access to one if you can manage it. It's not a deal breaker if you can't, but this bench is probably the nicest thing I'm going to have for a long while. I was going to hand-plane the wood, as an exercise in setting up and using babbys first plane. Am I being dumb? Phone posted:Another note that isn't in the instructions, but is probably worth pursuing: grab a dowel jig for when you do the bench top glue up. I think we put 4 dowels across the entire length of the top, and it made that glue up the easiest thing in the world. Tanks for the tip, I'll look into a dowel jig. A little disappointed to hear about the MM-C problems -- after hearing so much love for them I was looking forward to making my first order.
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Feb 3, 2017 19:14
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MetaJew posted:So I bought a set of Narex chisels, the Robert Larson honing guide, and some DMT diamond plates. After following the guide to modify the honing guide so that it would hold my plane blade square I'm still having lots of trouble with my chisels. Holy poo poo are those three diasharp stones big enough to cook on? How much were those if you don't mind me asking? I can't help you sharpen your chisels but I can post a website that looks like it's from the 90s with a very interesting but logical claim that upsets a lot of people: Don't use oil to sharpen ever, and probably not even water or the woodman's favorite: spit. http://sharpeningmadeeasy.com/Juranitch1977Feb.htm
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Feb 3, 2017 19:17
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nielsm posted:PSA: Make sure to lube your loving plane soles. I hadn't been doing that before, but just now tried running a cheap candle over it a few times, makes a gigantic difference. Going even further, lube ALL your tools. Oil on the flat of a chisel makes mortising and paring so smooth. Oiling the panel of a saw mitigates any friction for a smoother cut. Oiling your try square makes your lines straighter. In fact I just do all my woodworking hip deep in lamb tallow. It's amazing.
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Feb 3, 2017 19:17
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Skippy Granola posted:Going even further, lube ALL your tools. I ended up using Johnson's paste wax on my table saw and it's amazing the difference it makes. It certainly helps make what seemed like a low end saw (it still is) to much more usable while I save up for nicer tools.
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Feb 3, 2017 19:23
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Hubis posted:I was going to hand-plane the wood, as an exercise in setting up and using babbys first plane. Am I being dumb? It'll be a lot of work and take a long time, but that's my plan, too. If you have the right tools it shouldn't be hard. You'll want a No 5 (or 6) and a 7 (or 8), and you'll need to make winding sticks. Watch a few stock prep videos from different sources. Crosscut your wood first, one long board is much harder to flatten than two shorter boards; I made that mistake recently.
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Feb 3, 2017 19:46
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Hubis posted:I was going to hand-plane the wood, as an exercise in setting up and using babbys first plane. Am I being dumb? So, I did this very thing. You absolutely can, but as mentioned, it is a lot of work and a lot of time, especially since you likely won't have really good workholding solutions. On the plus side, it teaches you a lot about how planes work and how they respond and the feel of working on it, so there's benefits to it. But be aware that you could be turning a weekend project into a month long project. Lunchbox planers are just that quick. When laminating your worktop, take the time to make things fit and flat, it certainly makes things easier later on. The harbor freight aluminum bar clamps are fairly decent, you can also get pipe clamps (a bit more expensive, but more flexible). I need to pick up a bunch myself. Definitely make sure you have a longer plane, jack or jointer (#5, #6 or higher), and the comment about winding sticks is spot on. In fact, ColdPIe's advice is all pretty drat great.
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Feb 3, 2017 19:54
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ColdPie posted:It'll be a lot of work and take a long time, but that's my plan, too. If you have the right tools it shouldn't be hard. You'll want a No 5 (or 6) and a 7 (or 8), and you'll need to make winding sticks. Watch a few stock prep videos from different sources. Crosscut your wood first, one long board is much harder to flatten than two shorter boards; I made that mistake recently. Falcon2001 posted:So, I did this very thing. You absolutely can, but as mentioned, it is a lot of work and a lot of time, especially since you likely won't have really good workholding solutions. On the plus side, it teaches you a lot about how planes work and how they respond and the feel of working on it, so there's benefits to it. But be aware that you could be turning a weekend project into a month long project. Lunchbox planers are just that quick.  I was tempted to buy a lunchbox planer, but ultimately I'm in the hobby as a hobby, spending extra time learning how to do stuff seems like a worthwhile investment. As pictured above I acquired a No 7, a No 5, a No 4, and a No 60-1/2 which as I understand it should cover my planing needs for a while (at least until I want to do something specific).
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Feb 3, 2017 20:07
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Hubis posted:
Yeah, that's a pretty great coverage. Lots of good resources on restoring old planes; the biggest thing you might not be able to do yourself is sandblasting off the japanning (black enamel paint on the body of the plane); this is relatively important if it's not perfectly intact as rust likes to get under there. It's the biggest remaining step I never did on my #5 and it bugs me. You can reapply it relatively easily I think as you can get it in spray form but getting it off is a job for sandblasting. Edit: I would also heavily recommend getting Christopher Schwartz's book on Workbenches https://www.amazon.com/Workbenches-...wartz+workbench before you dive in. It, at the very least, offers two detailed designs and build steps for workbenches that are both elegant and utilitarian. It's certainly a way better resource than Sellers' 'Working Wood' that has his bench plans in it - but build whatever you want and remember you can always build another :p That's my plan at least. Falcon2001 fucked around with this message at 20:15 on Feb 3, 2017 |
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Feb 3, 2017 20:12
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I think we started the second week of December, and have been steadily working on it almost every weekend. Keep in mind, I'm slow and a novice and a lot of this is being used for teaching moments, it's still been a glacial process. I'd have to go through chat logs to figure out which days in particular, and I do plan on doing a post mortem and build log cataloging what we did and any problems that sprung up. Caveats being that the wood I started off with wasn't super straight (also working off of 12' boards at the max, the 16' suggestion is some fairy tale bullshit) and that there has been power tool usage that might not be available to complete novices. For example, on the first day, we did most of the rough cuts and sent everything (we could) through a joiner, then the lunchbox planer. This isn't to say that you can't make the bench with a handful of tools plus a good circular saw as Schwarz outlines. If anything, it's more of an indictment of the notion that you can do this in 2 days with $100 in lumber. The price tag isn't far off the mark, the hardware will run you about $100, too, but unless if you're a professional woodworker, I can't see how you can build this bench in 2 days. Starting off with building the sawbenches seems like a good way to go. It'll get you familiar with your tools in whichever wood you're going to use for the bench, as well as providing a much needed work surface to build the bench and giving you a good indicator of how fast you can work. E: pick up that benches book. It outlines design choices and justifies them quite well.
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Feb 3, 2017 20:16
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When he says 2 days, he means two 10 hour days of steady work. Anyway I made my bench with hand tools and 2x4s and I think it took me about 30 hours over the course of 3 months. It's not the greatest bench but it's sturdy and flattish It's not as bad as folks say, but it sure is sweaty
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Feb 3, 2017 20:25
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Falco posted:I ended up using Johnson's paste wax on my table saw and it's amazing the difference it makes. It certainly helps make what seemed like a low end saw (it still is) to much more usable while I save up for nicer tools. I did the same thing a few years ago and the difference was so stark I basically waxed every tool I own. Even wax your jigs/sleds. It's amazing the difference it makes.
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Feb 3, 2017 20:40
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Hubis posted:
Your picture is broken, unfortunately. Says it was deleted.
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Feb 3, 2017 20:46
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