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Innocent blue (10AE) is the best colour on the Miata 
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Feb 6, 2017 15:01
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| # ? May 14, 2024 23:36 |
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Wibla posted:Innocent blue (10AE) is the best colour on the Miata I'm leaning that direction too - but the interior was too much.
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Feb 6, 2017 15:04
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Goober Peas posted:I'm leaning that direction too - but the interior was too much. Yeah... The two tone seats and the blue carpet etc is bothering me a bit. But the seats will be swapped later this year, so meh. It's impressive how bad the seats are for spirited driving 
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Feb 6, 2017 15:05
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Wibla posted:Yeah... The two tone seats and the blue carpet etc is bothering me a bit. But the seats will be swapped later this year, so meh. Swap them for 01-05 seats. And swap in the 01-05 console for usable cup holders.
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Feb 6, 2017 15:35
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They're not super easy to find here in Norway and this will (mostly) be a track car, so I'm looking for something from a third party atm. Cobra or Sparco, just not sure how much of a pain in the rear end it is to get them fitted in the car. Or that I'll fit 
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Feb 6, 2017 17:20
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Does anyone know where the trunk open switch (not the release lever) is in an NB? I want to try to measure the battery draw current but the lights turn on when I open the trunk 
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Feb 6, 2017 18:38
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Shai-Hulud posted:It sucks that the MX-5 is not available in more colors. The only colors you can get is red and "slightly blue. The rest is variations of white, grey and black. Not saying that it doesn't look great in white grey or black but its a fun car, give me some fun colors Mazda! Agreed. It's the same deal with the GTI - greyscale + red and dark blue. Mazda's still a small company and they've been putting a lot of time into getting the paint colors they have out there right (see version two of Soul Red, Ceramic Metallic and Machine Grey.) The Miata hasn't been offered in that many bright colors but the lines of the ND would be great with a yellow or orange. Goober Peas posted:PRHT was just a ballcap The RF is gorgeous you philistine.
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Feb 6, 2017 18:52
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So I had a coolant leak in my 94m and my engine was steaming pretty bad from coolant shooting out onto it. Got it back home, it appears to be this hose labeled "to heater":  So I think what I need is just to buy this and pop it in in the broken hoses' place? http://www.autozone.com/cooling-heating-and-climate-control/hose-heater/dayco-hose-heater-/240788_404555_0 are there specific clamps that go with this?
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Feb 6, 2017 18:55
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Your CAS is leaky, so fix that, too.
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Feb 6, 2017 19:10
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Phone posted:Your CAS is leaky, so fix that, too. Yep. Those hoses don't just go bad unless they're getting a golden shower of hot head oil 24/7.
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Feb 6, 2017 19:17
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Yes I have been reading some things that seem to indicate that. I just need to replace the O-ring or maybe more than that?
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Feb 6, 2017 19:42
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The O ring.
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Feb 6, 2017 19:46
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The 10AE interior is awesome you guys are crazy
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Feb 6, 2017 20:22
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mobby_6kl posted:Does anyone know where the trunk open switch (not the release lever) is in an NB? I want to try to measure the battery draw current but the lights turn on when I open the trunk It's a contact switch on the latch. You need to unbolt the latch to get to it. You could also just trip the latch closed while the trunk is open.
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Feb 6, 2017 20:23
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:Agreed. It's the same deal with the GTI - greyscale + red and dark blue. Mazda's still a small company and they've been putting a lot of time into getting the paint colors they have out there right (see version two of Soul Red, Ceramic Metallic and Machine Grey.) The Miata hasn't been offered in that many bright colors but the lines of the ND would be great with a yellow or orange. More colors would be great but I'm just happy that the colors they do have are killer. To me, Soul Red and Ceramic Metallic are possibly the best red and white you can get from any manufacturer. The GTI has the double whammy of limited colors plus most of them looking awful.
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Feb 6, 2017 21:13
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Machine Grey and Deep Crystal Blue are probably the best dark grey and dark blue out there, too. I just want something highlighter-colored on the MX5.
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Feb 6, 2017 21:21
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Nodoze posted:The 10AE interior is awesome you guys are crazy I had one. I disagree, simply because none of the blue bits were the same blue.
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Feb 6, 2017 21:37
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Elysium when you go to replace that hose use a razor and slice the hose parallel to itself along the heater core pipe after you've removed the clamp. Then peel and twist off gently. Do not use pliers to try and grab it you will likely smash the pipe and have to do a heater core replacement next.
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Feb 6, 2017 22:00
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So in total: 1) Mark CAS position 2) Remove CAS 3) Replace CAS O-ring 4) Slice bad hose and carefully remove 5) Lube new hose and put in place, clamp down 6) Replace other heater hose as well because why not? 7) Replace CAS in marked position and tighten 8) Profit?
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Feb 6, 2017 22:19
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More or less. Getting the CAS back in place is a pain in the rear end if you move it at all. Use a dental mirror if that happens, it will take forever to line up.
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Feb 7, 2017 01:34
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You can also just take off the valve cover to make it trivial to line up the CAS.
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Feb 7, 2017 01:49
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It's not that hard, guys. Mark the position, pull the CAS, don't gently caress with it. change the o-ring. Replace the heater hose. reassemble. Pulling the valve cover really isn't necessary.
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Feb 7, 2017 03:19
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Anyone now what this plug in the front right of the engine compartment is for?
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Feb 7, 2017 09:44
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I think I might be dealing with faulty heater hoses too... or something else fishy. Backstory: RHD 99 10AE mx5 (uk car originally), about 130k miles on the counter. Destiny: track toy. Issue: when idling/driving under low load/rpm conditions, the heater doesn't blow very hot. If "beaten on" abit up some hills etc, the air temp will increase by a fair bit. During all this, the temperature needle will not budge from the center. The car heats up reasonably fast compared to the old 1.8 BP in an old 323 BG I had, and it doesn't seem like it's overheating either. There's some slight misfire/hesitation around 2500-3500 rpm when on partial throttle without much load, probably indicating old spark plug leads. I haven't noticed any water usage or excessive white/blue smoke. I guess it could be failing heater hoses, or it could be issues with water circulation from a failing water pump or something being seriously wrong (tho I'm at a loss at what that could be). Most of the service work has been documented fairly well (big folder of paperwork came with the car), so I'll have to check if the water pump has been changed at any point... </ramble> Any ideas?
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Feb 7, 2017 19:23
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Shai-Hulud posted:Anyone now what this plug in the front right of the engine compartment is for? I am curious as well. My 99 has them, with nothing plugged in. Maybe fog lights?
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Feb 7, 2017 23:33
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eddyc49 posted:It's a contact switch on the latch. You need to unbolt the latch to get to it. You could also just trip the latch closed while the trunk is open. Thanks, sticking a screwdriver in there to trip it did the trick  I didn't manage to measure current with my multimeter (unless it's exactly 0) but I just figured out what probably caused the issue in the first place: the HVAC fan stays on even when the key is removed now 
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Feb 7, 2017 23:42
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Shai-Hulud posted:Anyone now what this plug in the front right of the engine compartment is for? TrueChaos posted:I am curious as well. My 99 has them, with nothing plugged in. Maybe fog lights? It's a power lead for a timing light.
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Feb 8, 2017 00:24
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Wibla posted:I think I might be dealing with faulty heater hoses too... or something else fishy.
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Feb 8, 2017 02:05
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destructo posted:Thermostat. Probably. When your heater hoses fail, you will know. Check your CAS (back of the cylinder head) for leaks every now and then. That leak will drop oil onto the hoses, basically dissolve the rubber, and then blow at the worst possible time. (Top speed run on the Autobahn, for me)
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Feb 8, 2017 04:06
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So the temp gauge is basically useless then Swapping the thermostat and flushing the cooling system is the first on my list, along with oil change on engine, transmission and probably the diff as well.
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Feb 8, 2017 12:06
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Wibla posted:So the temp gauge is basically useless then It pretty much only has 3 readings, you've got "too cold" "anywhere between slightly too cold and slightly too hot" and "oh god oh god oh god  "
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Feb 8, 2017 14:00
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The middle of the gauge, "normal", has a range of 180-230F or something. If you ever see the gauge move, you've been boiling. My friend did a write up forever ago about how to make the gauge linear; it's a handful of resistors that you solder onto the leads.
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Feb 8, 2017 14:10
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I'll have to look into that. I need to open the cluster anyways I guess, to change the plate from mph to kmh... Is there any easy way to get live data out of a pre-OBD2 ECUs? (i know, it's a long shot)
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Feb 8, 2017 14:15
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Easier to install a real water temp gauge.
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Feb 8, 2017 14:22
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Larrymer posted:Easier to install a real water temp gauge. That's too easy. Re: the mph/kmh thing, I had a spirited drive on a mountain road where I didn't really look at the speedo much, just followed the road and drove at a comfortable speed. Looked at the speedo, thinking "oh, I'm just 10-15 over.. No wait. poo poo". Glad there were no cops around...
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Feb 8, 2017 14:30
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Larrymer posted:Easier to install a real water temp gauge. Nah. There are two senders on the back of the head, an actual real sensor and then a pain in rear end little piece of poo poo 1 wire thermoresistor. The ECU has water temp data. It's easier to grab that through an aftermarket ECU and display it on something digital. It's not cheap, but it's a checkbox on a laptop. The next easiest one (and cheapest) is to linearize the stock gauge. The real pain in the rear end is trying to find a gauge that isn't a colossal piece of garbage and installing it somewhere that isn't the back of the head.
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Feb 8, 2017 15:42
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Phone posted:Nah. There are two senders on the back of the head, an actual real sensor and then a pain in rear end little piece of poo poo 1 wire thermoresistor. Yes, it's easier/cheaper to install an aftermarket ECU than a $50 water gauge. 
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Feb 8, 2017 16:46
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Link me a $50 water gauge.
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Feb 8, 2017 16:48
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Phone posted:Link me a $50 water gauge. http://prosportgauges.com/green-white-water-temperature-gauge.aspx https://www.amazon.com/Auto-Meter-2...ater+temp+gauge https://www.amazon.com/Autometer-Au...ater+temp+gauge Link me a $50 aftermarket ECU.
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Feb 8, 2017 21:00
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| # ? May 14, 2024 23:36 |
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Auto meter's senders are terribad. Idk how much Microsquirts are these days. I'm sure second hand MS2 Basics are a few hundred. Also, you missed my giant "if" and took issue with it. Like, "if you have an aftermarket ECU, clicking a checkbox is the easiest option". You seemed to have missed that part. Aftermarket gauges are largely trash until you're spending $300 per gauge and even then you're better off just buying a decent dash replacement that you can program. Also, drilling and tapping the back of the head is totally easy with all of the room you have back there.
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Feb 8, 2017 21:21
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