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Crossposting from stupid/small questions. The router is a brand new TP-Link Archer C7 v3 Is there something that can block all wifi signals but one, but without just drowning them out? Nothing in my classroom will connect to a wifi except the school's lovely guest account. The signal strength on the failing wifis is -23 to -40 db because they're like, line of sight right next to me. It doesn't matter though, trying to connect prompts for a password (and the password is always invalid, even if I turn off security). This also happens to my phone tethering, which isn't associated with the school at all. Wired connections work perfectly, my laptop just has an internet connection without drama. Bluetooth peripherals also work perfectly Any ideas? Things I've tried in the haunted room, in both 5ghz and 2.4. I tried disabling wps and wmm as well, no change: Default ssid and password: no dice on MacBook Pro, an old android phone, iPad mini, iPhone 5S or a chromebook. Just baffling invalid password errors. Custom ssid with new password, wpa2: same devices, same errors (these range from "get closer to the router" to "invalid password") Trying to tether to my iPhone over wifi: same errors on all devices Connecting to open school guest account: connection with intermittent problems, but no error messages or weird password prompts, signal strength is around 60-95 throughout the room. Connecting to router wifi at my house 200m from the school: perfectly normal behavior Connecting to my iPhone over wifi at home: normal again. Any ideas? It's a science lab but there's no mad science poo poo going on in there at all, just a bunch of drawers full of beakers at this point.
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Feb 6, 2017 06:11
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tuyop posted:Crossposting from stupid/small questions. The router is a brand new TP-Link Archer C7 v3 No. You can either jam the whole band (highly illegal) or boost that one signal, which still doesn't help with the signal from your phone to the AP.
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Feb 6, 2017 13:43
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tuyop posted:Crossposting from stupid/small questions. The router is a brand new TP-Link Archer C7 v3 Any way you can get a spectrum analyzer in the haunted room? How about SNR readings? Wireless can be hard to troubleshoot once you eliminate obvious noise and hardware issues. Shooting from the hip, I'd guess either really, really bad noise or something using up duty cycles. Do you have radar nearby? You may want to make sure you're using non-DFS for 5GHz. Try manual setting different channels: 20 MHz channels on 2.4GHz: 1,6, or 11 40MHz channels on non-DFS 5GHz (802.11n): 36, 44, 149, or 157 80MHz channels on non-DFS 5GHz (802.11ac): 36 or 149 I typically only use non-DFS channels in 5GHz, since I live near areas with radar (weather, airports), and UNII-2 and UNII-2e bands APs *have* to stop transmitting when a radar signal is detected (1 min for 52,56,60,64,100,104,108,112,132,136,140 and 10 minutes for 116,120,124,128) 5GHz non-DFS channels:  5GHz channels: 
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Feb 6, 2017 13:53
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I want to get my wifi network into my faraday cage of a barn. I'm going to bury some cat6 out to the building and then set something up inside. At my house, I currently have a netgear n900 for my wifi and WAN, which is also connected to a 16-port switch for the house's physical network. Said switch isn't operating as a NAT or anything, I don't know what the terminology is, but it's basically invisible to the devices on the network and is just acting more like extra ports for the n900. I'll be running a physical cable from that switch to the barn to provide a port out there. So my question is sort of nebulous, but: I want to put a wifi AP in the barn, but I want it to be similarly invisible to the devices using it as the switch in my house is. I don't know what you'd call that sort of setup, basically I want the wifi network in the barn to be topologically identical to the wifi in the house, all IPs and such managed directly by the n900. The AP in the barn doesn't need to be anything fancy, although it might be nice if it had a couple LAN ports on board. Doesn't need to be a super strong wifi signal, either: it's an open 26x32 structure on the inside. So I'm looking for both product recommendations for such an installation, and maybe some tips on what I should google further to accomplish what I'm after. tl;dr: want to put a wifi AP in a building that will physically connect to my LAN without adding another layer of NAT, etc. so everything is still managed directly by main router, looking for product/googling guidance. Thanks!  e: I can draw a picture if it'd help.
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Feb 6, 2017 17:33
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Bad Munki posted:I want to get my wifi network into my faraday cage of a barn. I'm going to bury some cat6 out to the building and then set something up inside. At my house, I currently have a netgear n900 for my wifi and WAN, which is also connected to a 16-port switch for the house's physical network. Said switch isn't operating as a NAT or anything, I don't know what the terminology is, but it's basically invisible to the devices on the network and is just acting more like extra ports for the n900. I'll be running a physical cable from that switch to the barn to provide a port out there. Your switch is just called a switch. And what you want is an access point. SImple as that. What you are thinking about are routers, which often times are used as access points because they have WiFi built in. A switch by design doesn't change broadcast domains, it's all on Layer 2 (Ethernet).
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Feb 6, 2017 17:41
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Ahh, okay, solid. I think I'd cleared my head on that when I set the network up initially, but it's been a while since I thought about this at all. So a simple AP isn't going to run its own NAT or anything? I guess that makes this super easy. Just gotta run the wire out there when the ground thaws.
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Feb 6, 2017 17:42
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Does your barn have electricity? Are it and the house on the same circuit? You might be able to get a powerline adapter working, if so. Regarding your first question, your 16-port switch is just acting as a switch (a device that invisibly switches packets). Yours sounds like a dumb switch, but they make managed switches that have interfaces you can log into also. For your second problem of getting WiFi into your barn, you would either string an ethernet cable the whole way, or do powerline networking to build that bridge. From there you'd want to buy any consumer-level router that can be turned into an Access Point. The recent Archer models can do it, as can any router that can run DD-WRT, Tomato, or other custom firmwares. Any recent Asus router can do it (especially if you install the open-source Asus-WRT software), and so can recent Netgear routers. Basically, you'd plug your router into power in your barn, connect to it via WiFi, then go through the steps to turn it into an Access Point (varies, per hardware, but typically involves turning off DHCP, changing the IP address of the device, setting your main router as the gateway and DNS, and then getting the wireless networking configured). Then, after the router was configured to be an Access Point, you'd simply plug it into your strung ethernet cable / powerline adapter and you'd be off to the races.
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Feb 6, 2017 17:47
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Barn is on its own meter. Had to do it that way, my house is only a 200A service and I'm easily filling up the 200A panel in the shop and will be pulling 100A without even trying. Didn't want to re-service the house to 400A. I remember the switch business now that my memory is jogged. Like I said, it's been a while since I thought about it, but yeah, I intentionally picked up a just-a-switch switch. So the power line thing is a nice idea, but not gonna work in this case. It's not that big of a run anyhow, I'll just rent a small vibroplow for a couple hours, it's only a couple hundred feet and there are no other buried utilities in the path or landscaping obstacles or anything, just a gentle slope of grass. Then I can lay cat6 and maybe run coax at the same time just for good measure.
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Feb 6, 2017 17:56
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Bad Munki posted:Barn is on its own meter. Had to do it that way, my house is only a 200A service and I'm easily filling up the 200A panel in the shop and will be pulling 100A without even trying. Didn't want to re-service the house to 400A. Powerline adapters suck and since you are already willing/planning to run cables, definitely do that. Maybe run like 5 cables just because it's pennies and might help in the future, but that's up to you. If you go by this threads standard recommendation, get a ubiquiti access point. I'm pretty sure very AP of today can do NAT, but by default it isn't supposed to. You can definitely configure it. Of course you can buy a WiFi router, but IDK, that's just paying extra to get a jack of all trades master of none type device.
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Feb 6, 2017 18:56
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Yeah, I've seen the ubiquiti gear before, that may become more of a thing as I expand my network out across The Estate, so it doesn't hurt to start buying into it now.
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Feb 6, 2017 19:03
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SEKCobra posted:Of course you can buy a WiFi router, but IDK, that's just paying extra to get a jack of all trades master of none type device. I wouldn't say that. A Unifi AP would be overkill, and he'll need another system to run the controller software on. They start at $70 on Amazon and move up from there, while a comparable device from Asus will do wireless + give the option to switch additional devices. Also, AsusWRT is one of the easier router firmwares to setup an Access Point with - it's got a Wizard where you select Access Point, either let it automatically detect (or manually input) a couple settings, it reboots, and then it just works.
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Feb 6, 2017 19:05
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bobfather posted:I wouldn't say that. A Unifi AP would be overkill, and he'll need another system to run the controller software on. They start at $70 on Amazon and move up from there, while a comparable device from Asus will do wireless + give the option to switch additional devices. Also, AsusWRT is one of the easier router firmwares to setup an Access Point with - it's got a Wizard where you select Access Point, either let it automatically detect (or manually input) a couple settings, it reboots, and then it just works. I don't think it's overkill, and afaik you can run them without the controller.
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Feb 6, 2017 19:08
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Do we have a list anywhere of recommended (free) DDNS providers?
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Feb 6, 2017 19:10
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tuyop posted:Is there something that can block all wifi signals but one, but without just drowning them out? A Faraday cage. Mr. Crow posted:Do we have a list anywhere of recommended (free) DDNS providers? Google domains offers free dynamic dns services with their domain registrar service.
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Feb 6, 2017 19:10
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CrazyLittle posted:A Faraday cage.  Oh man, so something like this might be suuuuuuuper ideal for what I'm doing. It'll get me a wee little out-of-the-way AP and provide a couple physical jacks in the process: https://www.ubnt.com/unifi/unifi-ap-wall/ e: I'd need to provide PoE to it, though, and if I'm just doing one, that is probably not worth the effort/$$$.
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Feb 6, 2017 19:19
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Bad Munki posted:Case in point: my barn It may not matter for your use case, but just in case, keep in mind these are only 2.4 GHz. If there is overlapping wifi at that location it will not work very well.
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Feb 6, 2017 19:22
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SEKCobra posted:I don't think it's overkill, and afaik you can run them without the controller. Of course it runs without the controller. But to configure it, you need the controller. I run Unifi APs at work. They're fine, for what they are. But they're not my favorite, nor are they much better than the devices they replaced. If someone wants an Access Point with extra ports that can switch other devices, recommending a Unifi AP for them won't fit the bill.
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Feb 6, 2017 19:23
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Bad Munki posted:Barn Stuff If you're going to go to the trouble of actually digging a ditch I'd highly recommend burying a PVC pipe between the buildings instead of just burying cable directly in the ground. If you run several lengths of fishing line/nylon string/something similar in the pipe before burial you can then use that to pull whatever cables you need between the buildings and can run new cable in the future without having to dig anything up.
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Feb 6, 2017 19:50
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Krailor posted:If you're going to go to the trouble of actually digging a ditch I'd highly recommend burying a PVC pipe between the buildings instead of just burying cable directly in the ground. If you run several lengths of fishing line/nylon string/something similar in the pipe before burial you can then use that to pull whatever cables you need between the buildings and can run new cable in the future without having to dig anything up. I was just going to vibro it into the ground directly. I cut a 250' long, 4' deep trench for the barn's electrical service and gently caress that, I'm avoiding trenches at all costs now. If I need to run more lines later (suuuuuuuper unlikely, it's just a barn workshop), I'll just vibro another line in.
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Feb 6, 2017 19:57
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How far away is the barn from the house? You'll CheddarGoblin fucked around with this message at 20:11 on Feb 6, 2017 |
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Feb 6, 2017 20:03
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Only about 100', maybe 150' at worst. The electrical service trench was longer because that was going to the transformer at the corner of the lot. e: Measuring on google maps, it's 100' on the nose from where it'll hit the house to where it'll hit the barn. Add another 50' on there for interior wiring to the router. I should be golden. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 20:22 on Feb 6, 2017 |
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Feb 6, 2017 20:20
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I've got an annoying little problem, that is doubly annoying in that I think it might be a simple fix, but an absolute needle in a haystack to track down. And it's probably not worth the effort. For a long time I've used Synergy to use a single mouse and keyboard across two (windows 10) PCs. Recently the mouse pointer has been intermittently freezing for a second or so, so I've using Mouse without Borders, which is a windows only alternative. But it's doing it with that too. Nothing specific is showing in the logs for either, and I'm thinking theres a wider problem causing it. Possibly something causing micro disconnects on the network? Can you have "Noise" on a fairly pretty simple Lan? I know thats all a bit vague, but just giving a bit of background leading up to my proper question; For two windows 10 PCs connected on the same switch with about 4ft of Cat5e each (35ft to the edgerouter) does this seem unusual, or fairly ordinary? code:code:code:code:I guess I'm looking more for ideas on what to look at and tests to perform rather than someone knowing how to fix it straight off the bat....
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Feb 6, 2017 20:33
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MeKeV posted:I've got an annoying little problem, that is doubly annoying in that I think it might be a simple fix, but an absolute needle in a haystack to track down. And it's probably not worth the effort. You should have 0% packet loss on your LAN. Or at least an infinitesimally smaller amount than you do. It's likely that you've got a bad cable or a bad device somewhere. The packet loss is causing your janky mouse problems and other issues with your setup you may or may not notice (slower speeds, lag in games, etc).
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Feb 6, 2017 20:58
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Yeah, the first thing I would do in that situation is replace all physical cables that could be causing the issue.
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Feb 6, 2017 21:38
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Internet Explorer posted:It may not matter for your use case, but just in case, keep in mind these are only 2.4 GHz. If there is overlapping wifi at that location it will not work very well. there was a 802.11ac version of the in-wall access point on the ubiquiti beta store, but if you're planning on putting your access points in the wall near the floor like most data jacks, you're doing wifi wrong.
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Feb 6, 2017 21:46
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Ehh, it's a pole barn, I can put it anywhere I want, it's not a typical installation. I'm probably gonna go something more typical anyhow, though, and just put a single network drop near wherever I'm going to put my AP.
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Feb 6, 2017 21:52
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Bad Munki posted:it's a pole barn, I can put it anywhere I want 
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Feb 6, 2017 22:08
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Rexxed posted:You should have 0% packet loss on your LAN. Or at least an infinitesimally smaller amount than you do. It's likely that you've got a bad cable or a bad device somewhere. The packet loss is causing your janky mouse problems and other issues with your setup you may or may not notice (slower speeds, lag in games, etc). Seriously, something is very hosed there. I wouldn't accept 1% packet loss on non-cellular internet, much less LAN.
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Feb 6, 2017 22:12
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So redoing my mom's internet setup. I got a Nighthawk R8000. Cox gave her some 3-in-1 whatever piece and said the other modem I had in there was obsolete, which is probably true as it's 6+ years old. 1. What's a good standard modem that will handle most anything? There is a lot of people using the WIFI at once. She doesn't have any crazy super high speed internet though. Probably get the ARRIS SURFboard SB6141 2. I'm moving the setup to a more central point in the living room. There's a coax cable for the TV already. Is there any issue splitting the signal? I was thinking maybe run a separate line for both--is that needed? If it's fine splitting what's a good one to get? 3. She's archaic and I'm trying to get her to get rid of her phone line, which was part of the reasoning for the 3-in-1. So now there will be a coax cable where her office/computer is, so unless we run an ethernet cable that'll need a whole other separate modem for VOIP? She says she just needs fax, which she really doesn't, but whatever. What are the good online fax services I can try to coerce her into using that simple enough for a grandma? If there's anything else I need to know lmk Nostalgia4Dogges fucked around with this message at 01:03 on Feb 7, 2017 |
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Feb 7, 2017 00:47
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fletcher posted:My Asus RT-N16 has been great for years but today it turned itself off twice and wouldn't stay on for more than a few minutes. Now it seems like it's dead entirely, won't power on at all. Well I had to get something last night so I went to Best Buy and bought whatever gigabit wireless router off the shelf, the Asus RT-AC1900P. What should I be looking at for a more permanent solution? I'm willing to budget a couple hundred for some decent gear.
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Feb 7, 2017 01:05
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fletcher posted:Well I had to get something last night so I went to Best Buy and bought whatever gigabit wireless router off the shelf, the Asus RT-AC1900P. The one you bought looks pretty decent; I'd say give it a try for a while and see if it meets your needs, especially if you were fine with an RT-N16. Also consider the Merlin firmware; it sounds like its added features/improvements would be useful for you. astral fucked around with this message at 02:31 on Feb 7, 2017 |
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Feb 7, 2017 02:22
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CrazyLittle posted:A Faraday cage. But then other signals wouldn't pass through, right? And the signals I'm messing with are inside the cage 😱
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Feb 7, 2017 02:43
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I ran a scan from my computer and it popped out quite a few signals, but is 25-30 signals sufficient to prevent connection to a 31st? Here's the scanner output: 
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Feb 7, 2017 05:55
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Hi, Does anyone have experience with a catalyst 2960-CX? I am at a work site and we are having a double NAT problem. Everything works but the printer takes about 5 minutes of spooling before paper comes out. Can this thing be put into bridgemode as the OP suggests? I am waiting on a call from the IT-business that set it up as I currently can not access the switch by IP alone.
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Feb 7, 2017 12:22
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Miguel Prado posted:Hi, There's actually a dedicated Cisco thread you can try. You're more likely to find answers there than in a home networking thread. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2430375
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Feb 7, 2017 22:52
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tuyop posted:I ran a scan from my computer and it popped out quite a few signals, but is 25-30 signals sufficient to prevent connection to a 31st? I'm assuming the BSSID that's bolded is the one you're concerned with. So here's a question. What kind of clients do you have (like iOS, Windows, Android) and are they all experiencing these issues? And it's only a single room at your site, correct? You have good coverage based on the RSSI values I see (which are sort of bullshit, but the best metric you have). Anything better than -70dBi is considered a solid signal. And it looks like you are in a PRISTINE environment RF-wise, which seems a bit suspicious to me. I've never seen a site reporting 0dB of noise. At this point I don't *think* anything points to an environmental cause. If I were managing the sites I'd start looking at 802.11 log events for re-transmit reason codes, or even just skip that and go right for wireless pcaps. If it's having to re-trasmit over and over it's either noise, contention, or hardware. I'm going to take the report at face value and assume the noise floor really is 0bB(but it's weird), and I'm really not seeing any channel overlap that would cause issues. It's a strange one. The signals coming from the other BSSIDs look strong enough for a/n on 5GHz. If you turn off the radios on the one you have issues with (which force the clients to associate with different one) does the problem go away? EDIT: Wait a tic. I'm seeing different WLANs stacked on the same BSSID. That's really not a good idea. They can use the same radio fine, but it's really best practice for WLANs to have their own BSSID, especially if the auth modes are different. What hardware are you running? I'm seeing Northland Guest, ncdchrome, and NSD61 on the same channel and BSSID for what looks like 5 different physical APs. The channel thing is fine since the BSSIDs have to use whatever the radio is set to. But typically, each one of those should have a unique BSSID. Think of them as something like virtual interfaces off of the radio MAC. For instance: If I have a radio MAC of FF:FF:FF:FF:FF:00 then BSSID1 Northland Guest BSSID2 ncrchrome BSSD3 NSD61 Depending on what your hardware and AP OS is will determine the value assigned to the BSSID. For instance in WiNG APs(Motorola/Extreme) or Cisco APs BSSID1 = FF:FF:FF:FF:FF:00 BSSID2 = FF:FF:FF:FF:FF:01 BSSID3 = FF:FF:FF:FF:FF:02 I can't help but think this may be causing some of your issue. BSSID is spending so much time managing the security type it's loving up the actual data transfer. Proteus Jones fucked around with this message at 23:17 on Feb 7, 2017 |
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Feb 7, 2017 23:07
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Thanks for the awesome response. I'm concerned with the tempwifi signals, they're the ones that won't allow a connection from devices running win 7, chrome OS, android, iOS or MacOS. The same errors (move closer/invalid password/"cannot connect"/-3905 in terminal) pop up if I broadcast my phone as an AP. Nobody knows how to login to NSD61 and northlands guest is garbage that won't allow a bunch of services I need. Those two signals, and the unbroadcast ones, came with the school and nobody knows anything about them except the IT guy 300km away. When I ask, everyone "just uses the open one".  
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Feb 7, 2017 23:45
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tuyop posted:Thanks for the awesome response. I'm concerned with the tempwifi signals, they're the ones that won't allow a connection from devices running win 7, chrome OS, android, iOS or MacOS. The same errors (move closer/invalid password/"cannot connect"/-3905 in terminal) pop up if I broadcast my phone as an AP. Nobody knows how to login to NSD61 and northlands guest is garbage that won't allow a bunch of services I need. Those two signals, and the unbroadcast ones, came with the school and nobody knows anything about them except the IT guy 300km away. When I ask, everyone "just uses the open one". I completely glossed over those. Signal strength is good for I notice the locale on the 5GHz (802.11a only? wow) is set to US and the 2.4GHz is blank. Everything else is set to Canada. CA and US locales are *usually* interoperable, but there may be some manufacturers that go "NO. Your locales must be uniform to the region you are in". Have you tried setting one of the clients to US region and trying? Or can you get into that AP and set the locale to CA? Other than that, I'm at the end of my rope as far as how much I can help without some remote tools and access to the configs/logs/etc. Proteus Jones fucked around with this message at 00:40 on Feb 8, 2017 |
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Feb 8, 2017 00:36
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I was having trouble forwarding ports until I realized my Comcast modem is also a router (with no way to disable routing, from what I can tell). Rather than duplicate my router's forwarding rules in the modem/router, I just put the router in the DMZ on the modem/router. Is that a satisfactory solution, or does it leave the network vulnerable to attack? I figure it's similar security wise to having the router behind a modem that doesn't have a built in router, but I want to double check.
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Feb 8, 2017 02:14
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flosofl posted:I completely glossed over those. Signal strength is good for The locale also stood out to me, and it doesn't have the dropdown to change it. But, my phone has the correct locale when it's an AP and nothing connects to that either so I don't know. You gave me some good stuff to ask the IT guy when he comes through tomorrow though, so thanks.
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Feb 8, 2017 02:36
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