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I haven't seen many WHF bases that are swampy, but I feel like it would fit the Nurgle champion pretty well. Could even have some fun sculpting colored shrooms to break up the green 
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Feb 5, 2017 19:17
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Progresss on archoflagellants and Sgt. Angel. Normal archos are getting the same kind af claws as mr. Angel.  Everything still looks lumpy as hell, but it's fun to be back 
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Feb 5, 2017 20:31
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HardCoil posted:Progresss on archoflagellants and Sgt. Angel. Normal archos are getting the same kind af claws as mr. Angel. drat that's coming along well and instantly recognizable.
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Feb 5, 2017 21:06
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HardCoil posted:Progresss on archoflagellants and Sgt. Angel. Normal archos are getting the same kind af claws as mr. Angel. These are looking decent, much better than any of my attempts at sculpting so far! You gonna include any of the other Angels?
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Feb 5, 2017 23:05
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ijyt posted:Painted up this fat lad over the weekend, I'm usually not one to boast but I'm pretty proud of how it turned out. Just need to figure out what scenic base to do for him!  Yeah. That's something to be very proud of.
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Feb 5, 2017 23:18
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Floppychop posted:My favorite things to sticky-tack minis to are those rectangular containers that chessex dice come in. They're big enough that you grab them with most of your hand. Extra added benefit to Chessex boxes: Stick a magnet on the base of your miniature, glue a steel washer on the underside of the lid, and you've got an instant storage/display case for that mini.
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Feb 6, 2017 02:32
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HardCoil posted:Progresss on archoflagellants and Sgt. Angel. Normal archos are getting the same kind af claws as mr. Angel. Um, IDK why you're sculpting this, don't you know Hasslefree already makes a miniature of Sgt. Angel? http://www.hfminis.co.uk/shop?product=officer-nick~hfa032&category=modern-%26%0D%0Apost%252dapoc~modern-adventurers
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Feb 6, 2017 06:11
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Is 5 psi an acceptable drop between static and working pressure for an airbrush? Seems like a rather large one if it reduces it by 25% from 20->15. I don't feel nor hear any leaks and I've covered the connections previously leaking with teflon tape. This is with a patriot 105 and tc-910, as I assume the different nozzle sizes will be variable.
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Feb 6, 2017 14:59
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Chill la Chill posted:Is 5 psi an acceptable drop between static and working pressure for an airbrush? Seems like a rather large one if it reduces it by 25% from 20->15. I don't feel nor hear any leaks and I've covered the connections previously leaking with teflon tape. This is with a patriot 105 and tc-910, as I assume the different nozzle sizes will be variable. That's how mine works. If I want to work at 20psi I set 25psi max and it drops when I start spraying. Admittedly I'm only doing priming and base-coating, so take it for what it is.
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Feb 6, 2017 15:25
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It's a 5psi drop no matter how far I pull the lever. It's a flat 5psi drop. I tried it with higher static psi and it's the same. Tried it 30, 40.
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Feb 6, 2017 15:57
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ijyt posted:Painted up this fat lad over the weekend, I'm usually not one to boast but I'm pretty proud of how it turned out. Just need to figure out what scenic base to do for him! Bright green grass that's dead around his feet. Looks great btw.
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Feb 6, 2017 17:07
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What is the red you're using there?
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Feb 6, 2017 20:15
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Does anyone have experience with using colored washes over silver rather than regular solid paints? In my head it seems like you could create a more metallic looking, somewhat pearlescent effect with multiple coats that I'm picturing looking cool for the shoulder pads of my Astral Claws, but maybe I'm completely off base with how it will actually look. I'm also a little confused on the correct order to be doing washes etc in, since I've seen both basecoat (Boltgun) -> wash (Badab Black) -> Boltgun -> highlight (Mithril Silver) and the way Duncan does an ultramarine which in my case would be Boltgun -> drybrush Silver -> wash.
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Feb 6, 2017 22:49
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FromTheShire posted:Does anyone have experience with using colored washes over silver rather than regular solid paints? In my head it seems like you could create a more metallic looking, somewhat pearlescent effect with multiple coats that I'm picturing looking cool for the shoulder pads of my Astral Claws, but maybe I'm completely off base with how it will actually look. I'm about to experiment a bit with some GW glazes over metallic paints, but I think those dry with more of a matte finish. I'll try to get back to you this evening on that. Previous recommendations in this thread have included Tamiya clear paints (especially the red) and Badger Ghost Tints. These are notable for keeping their glossy shine; I've heard that the Ghost Tints may behave weirdly on some metallics, though (not wanting to stick to Vallejo metals, for instance). tldr: buncha hearsay with nothing to back it up yet 
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Feb 6, 2017 23:24
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berzerkmonkey posted:What is the red you're using there? All with airbrush: Basecoat VMC Hull Red GW Mephiston Red (cover almost everything but deepest recesses) GW Evil Suns Scarlet (Zenithal, about 45 degrees) GW Wild Rider Red (barely anything) Pin wash Nuln Oil Edge highlight Wild Rider Red I think that the terminator might not have gotten the zenithal wild rider red, he's a tad darker. I haven't washed the mk3 dude yet though, so that might darken it up. Neurolimal posted:How about an iron sword with neon green blood? Would compliment both the dusty orange and ice blue claws well IMO. What do you mean by neon green blood? Sounds interesting.
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Feb 6, 2017 23:33
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Sort of like the claws, a really bright slightly translucent green over a iron-grey sword. re: colors over metallic, I'm doing that with a gundam kit to achieve a platinum-gold look, its very doable so long as there isnt any thick pigments in the mix. I use the Tamiya Clear line but I imagine any well-thinned clear paint can achieve the same effect. E:  This was before I got better about lighting for pics.
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Feb 6, 2017 23:41
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MasterSlowPoke posted:What do you mean by neon green blood? Sounds interesting. I often use a base of Vallejo Game Color Escorpena Green with a highlight of Fluo Yellow and a really thin glaze of Waywatcher Green. (Be careful of the Fluo Yellow, though; I've had multiple bottles that just don't have good coverage, get clumpy in the bottle, etc. I think there's an equivalent to it in the Vallejo Game Air line, but I don't have access to the latest paint comparisons charts....) Speaking of paint comparisons: Does anyone know of a good equivalent for the old Mechrite Red (with a faint purplish undertone, I believe discontinued at this point)? That was my base coat for my Space Hulk termies back when I first got started airbrushing, and I miss it.
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Feb 6, 2017 23:45
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Cross posted from the Age of Sigmar thread. This is my AoS army, commissioned by me through a friend. He painted up the models, I did all the basing and ultimately I am very happy with my "Tzeentch flavored" Chaos army. I am adding some units to it still. Just played my first "real" game of AoS last weekend and had a blast.       basing this guy is a BITCH. He only connects to the base in one small area and to the support wall in one small area. In the end I pinned him through the support wall and from underneath into the tail. I also used a two part epoxy to hold him to the base. He isn't going anywhere now.
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Feb 6, 2017 23:56
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Dr. Gargunza posted:I'm about to experiment a bit with some GW glazes over metallic paints, but I think those dry with more of a matte finish. I'll try to get back to you this evening on that. Ghost tint lets you do some neat effects. I just got some in the other day to mess around with for the color scheme on my Dropfleet Commander PHR ships. Little WIP on my test model:  Ultimately trying for the crazy Chris Foss look of this image which the PHR ships have ample smooth surfaces for.  So far it's just a gradient of Golden Yellow/Red/Magenta through the airbrush over a base of pearlescent white which works pretty nicely through the ghost tint. Also testing out the Vallejo Metal Color Jet Exhaust which is some drat smooth stuff, although dries near instantly thus the little sloppy spots I wasn't able to clean off. I can't speak to whether GW glazes dry matte or not, but going over it with a gloss varnish or Future would shine it up.
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Feb 6, 2017 23:59
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The GW glazes tend to dry fairly matte, but don't work that well through an airbrush in my experience. +1 for Ghost Tints. For my Nightlords I use Vallejo metal colour to base them, and then use Automotive Air Acrylic transparent over the top for the blue. 
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Feb 7, 2017 00:07
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ijyt posted:Painted up this fat lad over the weekend, I'm usually not one to boast but I'm pretty proud of how it turned out. Just need to figure out what scenic base to do for him! That thing is  What model is it?
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Feb 7, 2017 02:56
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Sab669 posted:That thing is That there is a Lord of Plagues, and much cooler than GW's official paintjob. I almost said nicer, but that's basically the opposite of what I meant.
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Feb 7, 2017 03:00
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Anyone have a tip for picking the eyes? Or is it just 'small brush, steady hand'?
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Feb 7, 2017 03:50
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I can report that the GW glazes (Guilliman Blue, to be specific) do have kind of a matte finish over metals. But the Ghost Tints, if you're careful about them, making sure they're completely dry between layers, etc., are nice over metallic paints and impart a nice candy finish. They're really best used through an airbrush, but you can brush-paint them as well.darkwolf220 posted:Anyone have a tip for picking the eyes? Or is it just 'small brush, steady hand'? Pretty much, yeah. They're sometimes considered an optional step, so long as you've darkened the eye sockets well enough. There are suggestions out there (such as painting the eyes before the rest of the face), but really, just use your best judgement, especially if you're painting a large number of figures. e: An important thing to remember about painting eyes is, the brush head itself doesn't have to be small, and probably shouldn't be unless you're really fast. A short-bristled brush will allow the paint to dry really quickly, making it even harder to paint the eyes. The most important thing is, you want your brush to come to a very fine point, to paint in the sharper details with accuracy. If you maintain good points on your brushes, you could (with practice) paint eyes with a size 1 brush. Dr. Gargunza fucked around with this message at 04:35 on Feb 7, 2017 |
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Feb 7, 2017 04:29
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I find it helps to go inside out on eyes. That is, paint it black. The paint white around the pupil, shaping it. Then dark again to shape the whites. Then get rid of most of the dark around the eyes with flesh.
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Feb 7, 2017 05:09
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I do a stroke of black, then a smaller stroke of white, and then draw a line in the centre linking the top black and bottom black lines.
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Feb 7, 2017 05:33
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darkwolf220 posted:Anyone have a tip for picking the eyes? Or is it just 'small brush, steady hand'? Paint black, dot in the corners with white. Do the outside edges first and make the inside edges smaller dots than the outside ones if you can help it. It also helps to hold the model upside down when painting the eye on the side of your non-dominant hand. It's way easier than it sounds, you just need to be patient and have a fine tip on your brush.
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Feb 7, 2017 07:28
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I find the best results are to paint the eye black and then apply a crescent of white with the open part of the crescent facing upwards: but honestly in 28mm you don't really need to worry about pupils, it doesn't matter at that scale anyways as long as you heavily black line the edges of the eye: NWS unless you work at the nekkid elf factory 
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Feb 7, 2017 08:09
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Latest finished project; 1/350 scale, fully articulated/poseable with a few replacement hands (open hand, and the unfolded plasma cannons). Took a few weeks, mostly to paint all the various pieces before assembling, then decals and weathering (which toned down the rather-too-bright blue armour really nicely). Inner frame is Vallejo Metal Colour Gunmetal, armour is based VMC Silver with Blue ghost tints for the colour. After decalling, I sponge dry-brushed silver lightly everywhere, with a heavier layer on corners/worn bits, followed by a liberal and random application of SW Heavy Body Black wash. Pretty pleased with the result :-)
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Feb 7, 2017 08:51
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Aside from a coat or two of varnish, she's done!    I've never used woodland scenics before so, it was a bit of a learning experience. Same with 4Ground's base render! I'm not 100% pleased with the base. If i did it again, i'd put more of that coal ballast down and get a darker turf colour. Probably try and raise the spaces where her feet rest on the base, too, just to give better clearance and vision between her feet and the terrain. LazyAngel posted:Latest finished project; That's a rad robot!
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Feb 7, 2017 11:44
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ijyt posted:Painted up this fat lad over the weekend, I'm usually not one to boast but I'm pretty proud of how it turned out. Just need to figure out what scenic base to do for him! 
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Feb 7, 2017 16:48
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Dr. Gargunza posted:I'm about to experiment a bit with some GW glazes over metallic paints, but I think those dry with more of a matte finish. I'll try to get back to you this evening on that. I saw a couple images of people using the Ghost Tints that looked pretty nice, how much of a difference does it make if you were to try and brush something like that on instead of airbrushing it? Figures people have had problems with them and Vallejo since that's what I'm using.
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Feb 7, 2017 18:22
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I don't know about Vallejo, but with my Tamiya clears you can brush it on just fine so long as you thin it well; because the goal isnt to obscure the underlying layer you can thin it to just before it becomes a wash, and patiently layer it on.
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Feb 7, 2017 18:26
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Dr. Gargunza posted:I often use a base of Vallejo Game Color Escorpena Green with a highlight of Fluo Yellow and a really thin glaze of Waywatcher Green. (Be careful of the Fluo Yellow, though; I've had multiple bottles that just don't have good coverage, get clumpy in the bottle, etc. I think there's an equivalent to it in the Vallejo Game Air line, but I don't have access to the latest paint comparisons charts....) Do you have any pictures? Khorne Red is fairly close to Mechrite Red.
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Feb 7, 2017 18:29
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El Estrago Bonito posted:I find the best results are to paint the eye black and then apply a crescent of white with the open part of the crescent facing upwards: Here's a post exposing the depth of my ignorance, but I never thought to line the eye, but it makes a hell of a lot of sense at 28mm scale. Are you lining the actual lids on the figure, or leaving a black line around the boundary of the cornea? Like, is this eyeliner or eyeshadow?
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Feb 7, 2017 18:35
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Eyeliner. Essentially, you need to create contrast between the skin tone and the white of the eye. On dark-skinned minis, it's usually not an issue and you can just go in with the white of the eye. But for lighter skin tones, you'll definitely want that dark line for a sharp contrast. If you don't want to go full black, you can also use a very dark brown; this will give the same effect without looking like make-up when viewed up-close.
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Feb 7, 2017 18:41
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MasterSlowPoke posted:Do you have any pictures? Thanks on the Khorne Red, I'll check that out! This picture isn't very good, but it's probably the best view of how this green color combo looks. (The highlights are much more yellow in person. I like orc flesh to look radioactive.)  e: Wait, here's a better example. Check out the barrel of the Ultramouse's gun. 
Dr. Gargunza fucked around with this message at 18:59 on Feb 7, 2017 |
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Feb 7, 2017 18:56
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ijyt posted:Painted up this fat lad over the weekend, I'm usually not one to boast but I'm pretty proud of how it turned out. Just need to figure out what scenic base to do for him! This is super rad. What kinda colours you using on this one? The brass, rust, guts and verdigris all look badass.
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Feb 7, 2017 19:25
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The airbrush is a dangerous and addictive weapon.Chill la Chill posted:( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)
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Feb 7, 2017 19:27
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| # ? May 12, 2024 13:36 |
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ijyt posted:Painted up this fat lad over the weekend, I'm usually not one to boast but I'm pretty proud of how it turned out. Just need to figure out what scenic base to do for him! That's amazing. It kinda looks like a render of a 3D rendered game asset, maybe because you cropped out the background  El Estrago Bonito posted:Um, IDK why you're sculpting this, don't you know Hasslefree already makes a miniature of Sgt. Angel? Zark the Damned posted:These are looking decent, much better than any of my attempts at sculpting so far! You gonna include any of the other Angels? Thanks No, not for now. I was originally just going to 5 "normal" archo-flagellants, but the concept of a crazed, cybernetically enhanced murdermachine with one arm kept reminding me of something. When I realized it who it was, I thought it would be a fun challenge to include him.If I ever do a proper Inquisimunda type warband doing the rest of the family could be fun.
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Feb 7, 2017 19:54
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