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Splinter posted:I was having trouble forwarding ports until I realized my Comcast modem is also a router (with no way to disable routing, from what I can tell). Rather than duplicate my router's forwarding rules in the modem/router, I just put the router in the DMZ on the modem/router. Is that a satisfactory solution, or does it leave the network vulnerable to attack? I figure it's similar security wise to having the router behind a modem that doesn't have a built in router, but I want to double check. The consumer router DMZ setting just copies all traffic that hits the main router's WAN port to the DMZ address (after doing NAT so the destination address is changed). It should be fine but some things have issues with double NAT like anything that relies on adding port mappings with UPnP or whatever. Most things work normally, though.
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Feb 8, 2017 02:37
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I'm starting to plan out a network installation in my house. It is 2800sq ft with two floors, a basement and an attached garage. Right now I'm thinking of getting two AP-AC-Lites and putting one on the top floor and one in the basement. Should this be sufficient to cover the entire property or should I think about adding a 3rd AP to the main level?
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Feb 8, 2017 22:59
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I would add a third on the main level, just because omni-directional WAPs like the UAPs do not really project up or down. Unless your main level is tiny, I think it would be worth adding another WAP.
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Feb 9, 2017 02:50
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You're not going to negatively impact anything by getting three of them. It's probably needed if you want to cover every corner of the house evenly. Keep in mind placement in the house matters. An opening to another floor projects far better than going through a solid flooring.
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Feb 9, 2017 04:32
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Bad Munki posted:I was just going to vibro it into the ground directly. I cut a 250' long, 4' deep trench for the barn's electrical service and gently caress that, I'm avoiding trenches at all costs now. If I need to run more lines later (suuuuuuuper unlikely, it's just a barn workshop), I'll just vibro another line in. Google failed me. How does one vibro a line, and what equipment is used?
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Feb 9, 2017 05:25
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'Vibro plow' or "vibrating plow" should be a useful google. It's a blade that cuts down into the ground and vibrates up and down with a plate on the surface that keeps the sod/dirt/whatever minimally disturbed. The cable (or conduit, or whatever you're burying) feeds down the back of the blade and directly into the ground. In the end, you get a pretty minor line of disturbed surface, if that even. Here's one where they're dragging some pipe into the ground, but I'm pretty sure they also make ones that feed the cable down instead of pulling it, depending on the application. The key, anyhow, is the minimal disturbance of the grass: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lZSn9JKnzPk You get the idea, although the details of a particular application/rig will vary. e: Here's one that holds a spool and feeds the cable down, instead of dragging it like the above video: https://www.ditchwitch.com/trenchers/vibratory-plows/zahn-plow Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 19:57 on Feb 9, 2017 |
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Feb 9, 2017 05:34
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I want to replace AirPort Extreme that I purchased around 7? years ago. I'm looking for something around $100 that can handle HD streaming, AirPlay (I have several AppleTVs) and lots of gaming (I currently have 4 PS4s and a XBox1). All of this (but one PS4) will be Wifi. I'm covering around 2,000 sq foot, but my router is located in the center (and my AirPort Extreme has done great over the years from this location). I'm thinking about getting the NETGEAR Nighthawk AC1750 Smart Dual Band WiFi Router (R6700) which has a $20 off coupon on Amazon to bring it under $100. Simple question, am I making a bad decision? nate fisher fucked around with this message at 19:22 on Feb 9, 2017 |
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Feb 9, 2017 19:19
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Nostalgia4Dogges posted:So redoing my mom's internet setup. 1. 6141 is fine for most connections, 6183 if she has a high-end plan but it sounds like that's not the case. 2. Every line in the house is coming off of a splitter somewhere. Only way to know for sure is to test it. Depending on where the living room line is coming off of, the coax quality, and the signal to the house, there might be enough signal to split it there - or there might not. 3. I would be shocked if Cox would let her just hook up another modem - it's usually one per account and that's it. Your options for getting network in there would be either wireless, powerline, or ethernet.
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Feb 9, 2017 19:31
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Nostalgia4Dogges posted:Is there any issue splitting the signal? I was thinking maybe run a separate line for both--is that needed? You can hook a cable modem up to a splitter, but ideally you want just one splitter between the modem and the outside cable, with the (one or more) televisions coming off the other side of the splitter. If there are other splitters in the house you want to remove them if they're unused, or at least terminate the lines so you don't have any signal reflections that cause your modem to drop out. If you have a diagram we can provide guidance for it. Nostalgia4Dogges posted:If it's fine splitting what's a good one to get? Nostalgia4Dogges posted:So now there will be a coax cable where her office/computer is, so unless we run an ethernet cable that'll need a whole other separate modem for VOIP?
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Feb 9, 2017 23:01
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Thanks for all the help all. Would there be any concern mounting the router and or modem directly behind the TV, within 1-2', or even using heavy duty double sided tape to mount it on the back of the TV. From what I understand the router should be as high as possible, or at least not on the ground, and near-ish a wall or in a corner. ExcessBLarg! posted:How is cable wired in the house? There's a cable to the existing 3-in-1 gateway and a cable to her television, right? Do those come off a central splitter or amplifier? Are there other cable lines that are unused? I am 90% sure the cable where I will be hooking it all up goes from source > side of house for 30' > where I'll be splitting. The 3-in-1 is in another room and I'm moving my modem/router I got to a more central location because the wifi is unsurprisingly poo poo on the other side of the house. I ended up with this splitter, which has great reviews: BAMF 2-Way Coax Cable Splitter Bi-Directional MoCA 5-2300MHz and this modem ARRIS SURFboard SB6141 I didn't know wireless to wired ethernet adapters existed. She will be returning the 3-in-1 and they provide the hardware for the phone line but apparently it's a whole other modem setup? So I don't know if it it will use the coax that the 3-in-1 was using. If it needs ethernet, then I'll just run a powerline. I'll be hooking this all up in a couple days, so hopefully it all goes well and solves the ongoing issues of drops etc. Nighthawk R8000 has really good reviews. Do you still have to register new modems with your cable company--cox--by calling them etc? Nostalgia4Dogges fucked around with this message at 09:33 on Feb 10, 2017 |
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Feb 10, 2017 09:29
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Don't put your wireless router behind your TV, it will ruin your signal.
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Feb 10, 2017 15:18
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Internet Explorer posted:Don't put your wireless router behind your TV, it will ruin your signal. The correct positioning is obviously in his kitchen, next to the microwave.
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Feb 10, 2017 16:29
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bobfather posted:I wouldn't say that. A Unifi AP would be overkill, and he'll need another system to run the controller software on. They start at $70 on Amazon and move up from there, while a comparable device from Asus will do wireless + give the option to switch additional devices. Also, AsusWRT is one of the easier router firmwares to setup an Access Point with - it's got a Wizard where you select Access Point, either let it automatically detect (or manually input) a couple settings, it reboots, and then it just works. And then there is Mikrotik which kills all.
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Feb 10, 2017 16:37
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Nostalgia4Dogges posted:Do you still have to register new modems with your cable company--cox--by calling them etc? I've never been able to make a modem self-authenticate with Cox - I have to call them every time.
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Feb 10, 2017 19:45
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Flatscan posted:The correct positioning is obviously in his kitchen, next to the microwave. I've got my wireless router sitting on top of a pretty good sized floor standing speaker. Do the magnets impact the wifi much? My apartment is pretty small so I haven't had any issues, just curious more than anything.
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Feb 10, 2017 19:49
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fletcher posted:I've got my wireless router sitting on top of a pretty good sized floor standing speaker. Do the magnets impact the wifi much? My apartment is pretty small so I haven't had any issues, just curious more than anything. I did the same for a couple years, tried moving it around, and the speaker didn't seem to affect it at all.
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Feb 10, 2017 20:33
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fletcher posted:I've got my wireless router sitting on top of a pretty good sized floor standing speaker. Do the magnets impact the wifi much? My apartment is pretty small so I haven't had any issues, just curious more than anything. Anything located underneath the speaker would probably have lovely reception. Other than that it would be fine.
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Feb 10, 2017 21:19
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Flatscan posted:The correct positioning is obviously in his kitchen, inside the microwave. just sayin
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Feb 10, 2017 21:31
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My condos wifi is super saturated and unfortunately I use my Chromecast a lot so I'm stuck dealing with 2.4ghz. Is there any way I can just get a big as gently caress powerful antenna and make my wifis dick so big that it out waves all the other networks?
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Feb 11, 2017 02:44
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Smeed posted:My condos wifi is super saturated and unfortunately I use my Chromecast a lot so I'm stuck dealing with 2.4ghz. Is there any way I can just get a big as gently caress powerful antenna and make my wifis dick so big that it out waves all the other networks? What about getting a second gen Chromecast? Do you have other 2.4-only hardware you're concerned about?
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Feb 11, 2017 03:27
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They also sell a Chromecast Ultra that can be used wired.
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Feb 11, 2017 03:33
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astral posted:What about getting a second gen Chromecast? Do you have other 2.4-only hardware you're concerned about? The second gen are 5ghz? Shucks! That's an idea.
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Feb 11, 2017 03:34
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Smeed posted:My condos wifi is super saturated and unfortunately I use my Chromecast a lot so I'm stuck dealing with 2.4ghz. Is there any way I can just get a big as gently caress powerful antenna and make my wifis dick so big that it out waves all the other networks? Longer answer: Not legally. And you will almost certainly get railed by the FCC if you ramp up the signal to the point that co-channel interference is no longer an issue for you. I also don't think you'd find anything outside of home-brew frankenstein poo poo that will transmit at that level in unlicensed bands (2.4 & 5GHz) It's cheaper and better-off to just to get a chromecast/roku/amazon fire thing that will work in the 5GHz band. e: fb 
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Feb 11, 2017 03:41
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flosofl posted:Short answer: no I don't want to screw with the FCC but drat does that sound like a fun project. Is channel 14 illegal to transmit on? I see it's always open.
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Feb 11, 2017 03:53
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Smeed posted:I don't want to screw with the FCC but drat does that sound like a fun project. Is channel 14 illegal to transmit on? I see it's always open. In the US and Canada, yes. You can't use anything above 11 in the 2.4GHz band. I think Japan (maybe?) is the only country you can legally use channel 14. So you'd probably need to source a Japanese AP and get it shipped to the US. EDIT: It is Japan, but only if it's used for 802.11b https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_WLAN_channels Proteus Jones fucked around with this message at 04:03 on Feb 11, 2017 |
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Feb 11, 2017 04:01
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As long as you don't screw poo poo up for other people to the point that they notice you will probably be fine. Its not like the FCC has agents driving around in vans looking for home brew setups that aren't following the rules. However, don't. On the very small chance that you do get caught you will seriously regret it. Federal criminal law is scary as gently caress.
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Feb 11, 2017 04:40
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I love how even today no one understands that wifi is bidirectional. If you blast 5MW from your AP your phone still can't answer. So trying to drown out other wifi participants will just make them go to full blast and drown out your puny end device.
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Feb 11, 2017 09:59
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SEKCobra posted:I love how even today no one understands that wifi is bidirectional. If you blast 5MW from your AP your phone still can't answer. So trying to drown out other wifi participants will just make them go to full blast and drown out your puny end device. This I did not think about, stupidly. I always forget wifi/radio signals are just light and work like big flashlight things.
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Feb 11, 2017 20:24
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I kinda disagree with the advice the guy is being given. It's mixed with FUD and a bunch of "OMG you're gonna break the law!!" without any details whatsoever. The FCC max limit for what you can broadcast varies, you can go ahead and assume 1 watt for most situations: https://www.air802.com/fcc-rules-and-regulations.html Most consumer stuff will broadcast at like 50-150 milliwatt strength. You can ramp your broadcast strength way the gently caress up and still be within FCC limits. Like usually about 8x. I have no idea why we have to treat people like children or act as pseudo FCC enforcers telling people not to even consider raising their broadcast strength to what they can legally transmit. I don't sit there and try to knock off my neighbor APs, but if someone wants to try, and see what happens, why give them BS advice? Ham Sandwiches fucked around with this message at 00:53 on Feb 12, 2017 |
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Feb 12, 2017 00:51
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SEKCobra posted:I love how even today no one understands that wifi is bidirectional. If you blast 5MW from your AP your phone still can't answer. So trying to drown out other wifi participants will just make them go to full blast and drown out your puny end device. This is absolutely, positively irrelevant. If you blast 1 watt from your AP to your client, your client will be getting the packets much more clearly. Will the response packets from your client device be more clear? No. But if the congestion is on the incoming side, and the other devices roam off the freq, it will absolutely help. Like, setting your AP broadcast to 1 watt doesn't magically fix range issues, because it won't improve the client radio. That's not what's being talked about here, at all. If you manually assign your AP to channel 6 and set it to 1 watt, other APs are very likely to switch to another channel. Also, client devices generally do not raise their transmit power. Some AP firmware allows you to. I'm not aware of any that do so dynamically, and I can't imagine they would go past 250mw. Ham Sandwiches fucked around with this message at 01:05 on Feb 12, 2017 |
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Feb 12, 2017 01:02
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-edit As I thought, it was on their end. Only took 4 techs. Things somehow got crossed or messed up when we tried to do it with the first gal. Because we got a phone modem, it was trying to send the signal to both modems, or something like that. Finally redid it all and it seems solid Thanks for the help all Nostalgia4Dogges fucked around with this message at 08:07 on Feb 12, 2017 |
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Feb 12, 2017 02:10
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Is the link coming up on your PC, and are you getting an IP address from DHCP or not?
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Feb 12, 2017 02:19
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Rakthar posted:I don't sit there and try to knock off my neighbor APs, but if someone wants to try, and see what happens, why give them BS advice? The FCC set that as the upper limit, because it's been shown not to introduce interference to the transmission of RF. Co-channel interference is not interference in terms of RF noise, it's interference in terms of channel contention. A measly 1 watt transmitter is not going to eliminate this issue. https://community.arubanetworks.com/t5/Technology-Blog/Understanding-802-11-Medium-Contention/ba-p/232034 quote:Channel Utilization – The Canary in the Coal Mine Rakthar posted:Like, setting your AP broadcast to 1 watt doesn't magically fix range issues, because it won't improve the client radio. That's not what's being talked about here, at all. If you manually assign your AP to channel 6 and set it to 1 watt, other APs are very likely to switch to another channel. His neighbors are unlikely to have APs that have adaptive channel/power adjustments beyond the initial setup. That's typically found in enterprise-class APs, but I've never seen it beyond "automatically choose channel" in a commodity AP, which only does it during set up and then subsequent reboots. The only one's I'm aware of are the mesh products like Plume, Google and Ubiquiti. So, sure. He can go get an AP that can have a 30dBi gain set on the antenna, but it won't do a drat thing to eliminate his problem because that's not enough and he still needs to adhere to 802.11 contention. It's cheaper and better solution to just move the 5GHz and replace any 2.4GHz-only clients he has. Proteus Jones fucked around with this message at 02:40 on Feb 12, 2017 |
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Feb 12, 2017 02:29
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Eletriarnation posted:Is the link coming up on your PC, and are you getting an IP address from DHCP or not? To add to this, I have often seen issues where the modem will only hand out one IP between reboots. So if you boot the modem with the laptop connected, then switch it to the router, the router might not get a valid public IP until you reboot the modem again. Start simple - Ethernet from the laptop to the modem, coax from the modem to the wall. Reset your Ethernet settings, what IP do you see on the wired interface? Can you hit http://192.168.100.1 - it should be your modem's status page.
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Feb 12, 2017 03:03
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-edit As I thought, it was on their end. Only took 4 techs. Things somehow got crossed or messed up when we tried to do it with the first gal. Because we got a phone modem, it was trying to send the signal to both modems, or something like that. Finally redid it all and it seems solid Thanks for the help all Nostalgia4Dogges fucked around with this message at 08:07 on Feb 12, 2017 |
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Feb 12, 2017 03:06
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-edit As I thought, it was on their end. Only took 4 techs. Things somehow got crossed or messed up when we tried to do it with the first gal. Because we got a phone modem, it was trying to send the signal to both modems, or something like that. Finally redid it all and it seems solid Thanks for the help all Nostalgia4Dogges fucked around with this message at 08:07 on Feb 12, 2017 |
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Feb 12, 2017 07:23
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Jan 1 70 is UNIX Time 0, so that's normal for a modem on a fresh boot. They don't have real-time clocks so they have to get online enough to pull the current date from the network. So far all of that looks normal. What IP does the modem give your computer? The fact that the device registration page comes up tells me that your modem is not properly registered. That usually means they're sticking you in a walled garden on their network instead of giving you an actual public IP.
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Feb 12, 2017 07:34
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-edit As I thought, it was on their end. Only took 4 techs. Things somehow got crossed or messed up when we tried to do it with the first gal. Because we got a phone modem, it was trying to send the signal to both modems, or something like that. Finally redid it all and it seems solid Thanks for the help all Nostalgia4Dogges fucked around with this message at 08:06 on Feb 12, 2017 |
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Feb 12, 2017 07:40
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Y'all, I just got AT&T Fiber internet installed. What speeds should I be seeing on WiFi? I'm using their provided Pace 5268ac modem / router. Even right in front of the router, I only get 240Mbps and a room away, I vary between 50-240. Great speeds, but nowhere near the promised gigabit. Tested on both 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz. I haven't tested ethernet yet, trying that tomorrow.
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Feb 12, 2017 10:23
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 So that debacles figured out, some questions on placement. I put the router on the small couch side table on the left.  Seemed to be the best spot for reception. But, how much does wood affect the signal? There's a small storage area underneath the staircase which would be a perfect to just wall mount it and conceal everything. It's a central location to where the main devices will be used. The other side of the wall is the bathroom. It doesn't have to go through more than a couple walls at most
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Feb 12, 2017 10:28
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