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Will oil sitting in an unopened container degrade in quality? For random reasons I have a 5L bottle of full synthetic that's sat in a garage for a couple years and just want to know if I should worry about using it/should replace it within less mileage.
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Feb 9, 2017 19:40
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Maybe depends on how well sealed it is? If it's still got a foil seal under the cap that doesn't seem compromised, I'd run it with no hesitation.
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Feb 9, 2017 20:19
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Probably fine. Use in lawn mower if paranoid
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Feb 9, 2017 20:28
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Motor oils supposedly have a shelf life of 4-5 years. It's not even the oils itself, its the additives. It will be fine, especially if still sealed.
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Feb 9, 2017 20:39
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The Wonder Weapon posted:Four-piston aluminum monobloc calipers with cross-drilled inner-vented brake discs For the pads? Lmao This is a german site I sometimes buy parts from, I picked a random cayenne model that falls in the 05 - 12 model year range: https://www.kfzteile24.de/ersatztei...02&ktypnr=18917 like € 170 for a full set of pads.
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Feb 10, 2017 10:05
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spankmeister posted:For the pads? Lmao I can't seem to find brembo pads anywhere. All I'm coming up with are these full kits 
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Feb 10, 2017 13:12
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Finally got a video of the noise coming from my 1970 Volvo 164: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RUbQA3EZc1c It definitely sounds like it's coming from the front end, although it's hard to identify which side. It seems to start around 15 mph, varies to some extent with speed, and goes away if I brake hard (but returns when I get back up to speed). I drove for about 15 minutes last night and didn't hear it at all, but it immediately started when I pulled out of the driveway this morning. Any ideas?
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Feb 10, 2017 17:28
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The Wonder Weapon posted:I can't seem to find brembo pads anywhere. All I'm coming up with are these full kits Did you not see that what you posted has pads, rotors AND THE CALIPERS (you know, the expensive part that you don't need to replace unless it's been damaged). There are plenty of good choices for pads, including factory. http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperCat/987C/POR_987C_BRKPAD_pg1.htm If you must have Brembo, look at their distributor list, or go through the catalog to find the appropriate part numbers and search for those directly. http://www.brembo.com/en/car/sporting-use/pads
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Feb 10, 2017 19:28
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MRC48B posted:Motor oils supposedly have a shelf life of 4-5 years. It's not even the oils itself, its the additives. It will be fine, especially if still sealed. +1. Conventional oil itself has a shelf life of at least 65 million years. It's the additives that might lose efficacy over time.
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Feb 10, 2017 20:48
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I've had AAA for pretty much my entire licensed life. I have newer cars with warranties and all that. AAA was great when I was young and had lovely cars, and it seems pretty pointless now, but I like to have it anyway. Is there an advantage that AAA has over roadside assistance through my insurance company?
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Feb 10, 2017 21:51
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Your insurance may have some arcane limits, such as "can only use it 3 times in 2 years" (my last insurance company - Nationwide - had that limit in my state). That said, I carry towing through my insurance (Geico) instead of AAA. For me, it's about $30/year and covers towing up to 100 miles. You might want to see if you have any credit cards with that benefit too. AmEx includes it on most of their cars, I believe. If you're a member of a credit union, they may also offer roadside assistance with that benefit. Since you mention your cars are new enough to be under warranty, check with your car maker too - many of them include free roadside assistance for the first <x> years or <y> miles of ownership. e: some insurance companies use roadside assistance calls as a factor in determining your rates too; as far as they're concerned, it's a claim. FWIW, when I had my car towed by Nationwide, it didn't affect my rates at renewal (but moving sure did, ugh). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 22:18 on Feb 10, 2017 |
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Feb 10, 2017 22:13
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CharlieWhiskey posted:+1. Conventional oil itself has a shelf life of at least 65 million years. It's the additives that might lose efficacy over time. Oil isn't made of dinosaurs. Most of the oil we use comes from carbon sourced from microscopic algae and plankton that is middle Jurassic (~180 million years) and upper Permian (~280 million years) in age. But plenty of oil comes from the last 15-20 million years as well. Also, if mineral oil was just made from dinosaurs we would have run out about seven minutes after we first discovered it and we'd still be hunting whales for lamp oil.
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Feb 10, 2017 23:01
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FogHelmut posted:I've had AAA for pretty much my entire licensed life. I have newer cars with warranties and all that. AAA was great when I was young and had lovely cars, and it seems pretty pointless now, but I like to have it anyway. Is there an advantage that AAA has over roadside assistance through my insurance company? AAA gives you $10 off each hotel stay so if you use hotels 6x a year it is free. I think we also got $10 off each our admission at graceland. When I looked at roadside assistance for my car insurance it was per a car at $6 a car each a month. So if I added up 3 cars it would be $18 a month vs $60 a year for all cars for my wife and I. I figure between towing option, jump, door lock, savings on hotels it pays for itself.
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Feb 11, 2017 02:49
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Pham Nuwen posted:Finally got a video of the noise coming from my 1970 Volvo 164: Update: two days in a row, I've driven it in the evening after a warm day and no noise. This morning, though, it was noisy (as you can hear). Coincidence, or a temperature relationship?
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Feb 11, 2017 02:52
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My 2000 Jeep Wrangler has given me a few concerning instances of not charging immediately upon starting the engine today. Dash cluster voltmeter dropped to 0 once even. Shutting down the engine and starting it back up brought the voltmeter back up to 12, where it lingers upon startup for almost a minute now before the alternator kicks back in and the cluster voltmeter shows ~13V. Confirmed this with a multimeter on the battery terminals. What the poo poo is going on? I'm going to yank the alternator off in the morning and get it tested, but if it tests good, where do I go from there? All connections are clean, no corrosion on any ground points, etc.
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Feb 12, 2017 07:19
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FogHelmut posted:I've had AAA for pretty much my entire licensed life. I have newer cars with warranties and all that. AAA was great when I was young and had lovely cars, and it seems pretty pointless now, but I like to have it anyway. Is there an advantage that AAA has over roadside assistance through my insurance company? I dunno how often you buy cars, but being able to do registration at AAA instead of DMV is pretty awesome. The hotel and Hertz discount is nice. I also use AAA as my insurance company, and it's nice to be able to go in and adjust coverage in person so they can answer my stupid questions on coverage levels. Also paper maps 
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Feb 12, 2017 19:20
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EightBit posted:My 2000 Jeep Wrangler has given me a few concerning instances of not charging immediately upon starting the engine today. Dash cluster voltmeter dropped to 0 once even. Shutting down the engine and starting it back up brought the voltmeter back up to 12, where it lingers upon startup for almost a minute now before the alternator kicks back in and the cluster voltmeter shows ~13V. Confirmed this with a multimeter on the battery terminals. Have you verified the eratic voltage dips with your voltmeter? Just to be sure the dash voltmeter isn't sending you on an electronic goose chase. I'd guess some bad circuit or somesuch in your alternator if you've checked other connections, but I'm no electronics guru. Is there any sense in preemptively replacing an alternator? Or can you predict its impending death with occasional checks? My 120k car I take on remote trips wants to know.
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Feb 12, 2017 22:28
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Yeah, saw 12.3 on the battery before the alternator kicked in, so it might be a failing field diode (heat related) in the alternator. I'm pretty sure that the electrical needs of running the engine should pull the battery down a bit further if it were completely running on just battery power. The brushes for the primary winding can get dirty or damaged and cause an alternator to slowly fail, but I think the more common cause is a diode failure, which will be sudden in most cases. You won't notice either one until you have charging problems. Modern vehicles control the primary winding via the engine control unit, so you can theoretically get a CEL if there is a problem with the primary winding etc, but that won't happen before it has charging problems.
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Feb 12, 2017 22:50
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So, My girlfriend's 2011 Corolla has had the airbag light on for a while. It's her daily as I've got a company car for work, so I try and keep my ham-fists out of it. Took it to my mechanic, he said it was a bad clock spring. $700 in parts and labor later, the light was off for a day. I got an OBD II reader and it's not showing any codes. Up until I pulled the negative battery lead and pumped the brakes the passenger air-bag light turned on and seemed to indicate that it was working. Now the passenger's side is off, the airbag light is still on and no codes show up on my reader. Definitely going to call my mechanic back on Monday but any ideas as to what it may be? I've read everything from "bad ground on dash light" to "entire airbag computer system needs replacing". Thoughts?
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Feb 13, 2017 00:26
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I finally decided to ditch the CD player I installed back in 2000 in my 1979 Chevy and go back to the original stock look with an NOS AM radio for the time being (until I find a belt for the 8-track Clarion Spec II unit from 1980 that I have). The AM radio and reception is awesome... when the car's not running, but sounds like poo poo with a lot of RFI interference popping through the speakers when the engine's on. I've already ruled out possible alternator and charging system noise since the RFI doesn't climb and fall with the engine's RPMs; it's the telltale signs of ignition system noise since it's a steady popping and static that sounds like the spark plugs firing. When I pull the radio while car and radio are on and disconnect the antenna, the noise stops, so I know it has to be the antenna picking up the interference. I have done practically everything I can think of including research online about how to get rid of the noise with only minimal results. A list of the things I've replaced: - new Borg Warner distributor cap and rotor - new coil and ground strap (my coil was missing the ground strap  )- new AC Delco noise suppressing spark plug wires - new AC Delco resistor spark plugs - New HEI radio capacitor A list of the things I've done: - clean and inspect all ground connections and make sure they are touching bare metal and not painted surfaces - replace the negative to body ground strap - add a ground strap from the body to the hood - add a ground strap from the engine to the chassis - ground the radio body to the firewall ground - add ferrite chokes to the 12V, ground, and antenna wires right at the radio body - shield the antenna and lead - repair the antenna lead with liquid electrical tape (the insulation just disintegrated after so many years and the wire was bare) - trim the radio's antenna for the best reception, least amount of noise - Inspect the alternator and charging system to be on the safe side (found nothing wrong) I should note that the car has the dreaded embedded windshield antenna and the lead sits right above the distributor under a chrome windshield piece in the windshield wiper channel, and I thought maybe if I move the antenna that the RFI would stop or at least minimize. Nope. I did a test today with a spare antenna and set it up in the trunk area of the car and took the time to mock it up right as if it were always there. Reception's worse and the ignition noise is the same! I even re-trimmed the radio to compensate for the capacitance in the longer antenna lead (but having a longer antenna lead made me think it's much easier for the RFI to get picked up by the antenna). Plugged the OG antenna back in in frustration and left it as it was. I understand AM will always have some form of RFI, especially under power lines and the like, but this is horrific ignition noise that is always there and shouldn't be there. I even tried two other vintage head units (the Clarion and an AC Delco AM radio) that have the same results, so it's not the radio, either. I'm going crazy and getting tired of trying to control the RFI, so I turn to goons for help. Is there any other possibility that I may have missed in my two weekends of cursing, crying, and lying on the floor in the fetal position while sucking my thumb?
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Feb 13, 2017 03:11
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I think the correct answer would be to figure out the frequency of the ignition interference and install a filter between the antenna and radio, like a Hi-Pass or Lo-Pass or something. But I don't have the braincells for that. Personally I'd try using a faraday cage (read: metal bowl) over the distributor and seeing what happens.
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Feb 13, 2017 04:01
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x-post from flannel chat:Thief posted:My gf's Forester just hit 250k and the rear u-joint finally snapped so I pulled the whole shaft out. Not gonna rip a used parts from a junk yard cause I'm gonna ditch this ride at the end of the month since we just bought a Toyota but I still have to go pick it up. Also, I have a few quarts of ATF so if I can just keep refilling it and ignore the smoke I don't mind, just don't want to get stuck on the road waiting for a tow because I live in a particularly poor/violent area.
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Feb 13, 2017 17:38
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Why not just spend $10 on a new u-joint?
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Feb 13, 2017 19:03
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The part that connects to it shattered off, like the two little holes at the end that the cap goes in. Not sure what it's actually called.
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Feb 13, 2017 20:06
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Backstory: fell on hard times, moved across the state, living with my in-laws, just got a job, need car. In-laws have a plated and inspected '93 Dodge Caravan sitting here with her tires going flat. According to FIL, all she needs a fuel pump. If I can get it fixed, I can have her. So my questions are: 1. Ballpark figure, what am I looking at if I get a pro to do this job? Is it worth it? Everything else on the van is solid. 2. Is this something I can do myself? I currently live in the land of pick'n'pulls, and am not too shabby when it comes to minor service/repairs (oil, brakes, thermostat, etc), but this might be out of my wheelhouse. I heard noises about having to drain the whole fuel line and dropping the tank on this job, y/n? 3. Not really a question, but: If any SW VA goons wanna help out, holler at me.
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Feb 13, 2017 20:26
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JacquelineDempsey posted:Backstory: fell on hard times, moved across the state, living with my in-laws, just got a job, need car. You can see for yourself exactly what is involved (yes, you have to drain and remove the fuel tank): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t5JX_AATbtM It will probably cost about $500 to have a shop do it.
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Feb 13, 2017 21:02
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Just picked up a non-running 1999 Chevy Astro AWD (auto)and planning to drop a 90,000mi engine in it from a 2000 Blazer, both the 4.3l Vortec. I'm at least 95% sure compatibility isn't an issue, so that's not my question. I'm wondering what all I should replace/refresh while I've got the engine, trans, and subframe out from under the van. I'm willing to do quite a bit as far as rebuilding goes, as there's no time crunch on the van yet, just don't want to go overboard on poo poo that'll last another 200k miles no problem. We'll use the van for camping primarily, so I don't see us putting another 100k miles on it within 5 years.
Slim Pickens fucked around with this message at 00:58 on Feb 14, 2017 |
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Feb 13, 2017 21:04
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Thief posted:The part that connects to it shattered off, like the two little holes at the end that the cap goes in. Not sure what it's actually called. The yoke
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Feb 14, 2017 00:23
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Slim Pickens posted:Just picked up a non-running 1999 Chevy Astro AWD (auto)and planning to drop a 90,000mi engine in it from a 2000 Blazer, both the 4.3l Vortec. I'm at least 95% sure compatibility isn't an issue, so that's not my question. I'm wondering what all I should replace/refresh while I've got the engine, trans, and subframe out from under the van. I'm willing to do quite a bit as far as rebuilding goes, as there's no time crunch on the van yet, just don't want to go overboard on poo poo that'll last another 200k miles no problem. We'll use the van for camping primarily, so I don't see us putting another 100k miles on it within 5 years. Transmission filter and fluid would be what I'd do. Maybe the distributor and front and rear main seal if feeling froggy or wherever the oil leaks are.
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Feb 14, 2017 02:07
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Slim Pickens posted:Just picked up a non-running 1999 Chevy Astro AWD (auto)and planning to drop a 90,000mi engine in it from a 2000 Blazer, both the 4.3l Vortec. I'm at least 95% sure compatibility isn't an issue, so that's not my question. I'm wondering what all I should replace/refresh while I've got the engine, trans, and subframe out from under the van. I'm willing to do quite a bit as far as rebuilding goes, as there's no time crunch on the van yet, just don't want to go overboard on poo poo that'll last another 200k miles no problem. We'll use the van for camping primarily, so I don't see us putting another 100k miles on it within 5 years. Take a real close look at the power steering pump and if it shows the smallest signs of leaking, replace or rebuild it. It's a really common failure on those vans.
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Feb 14, 2017 03:26
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I need whatever parts are required for a transmission fluid service on my car. There are the options rockauto shows me for filter/gasket kits: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/mercury,1989,cougar,3.8l+232cid+v6,1198627,transmission-automatic,filter,8600 Any reason not to just get the Fram one since I've actually heard of them? Or is the $15 kit meaningfully better than the $6 kit, or the $2 kit?
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Feb 14, 2017 20:11
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While it's probably fine, my own sense of self-preservation wouldn't let me spend $2 for a closeout transmission filter. I'd do either the Hastings, Wix, or Fram, letting Rockauto choose whichever one gets me the lowest total.
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Feb 14, 2017 20:23
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Fram has a bad reputation with their oil filters, namely, the endcaps are made from cardboard and are glued onto the filter media. It works but isn't ideal. Can't comment directly on their transmission filters but given their reputation I'd buy literally any brand but them. The Wix or Hastings filters above (and for less) the Fram filter would be good choices.
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Feb 14, 2017 20:24
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As much as I love to hate on the orange-can Fram filters, the reality is that their cost cutting seems to be effective. Their marketing is strong enough that you walk into anywhere that sells oil filters and the orange-box section dwarfs everyone else combined, so you've got a lot of these filters getting installed on cars. There are very few (though not zero) stories of engines actually being damaged due to a Fram filter failure. Of course, you can usually do better for less money. I won't avoid a Fram over an equivalent competitor, but I also won't spend any more for a Fram than I would for a Motorcraft, Wix, Bosch, Mobil1, or K&N.
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Feb 14, 2017 20:31
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Welp, the Wix can be here Monday for less than the Motorcraft costs before shipping, so winner. Thanks.
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Feb 14, 2017 20:33
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Geoj posted:Fram has a bad reputation with their oil filters, namely, the endcaps are made from cardboard and are glued onto the filter media. It works but isn't ideal. Their air filters are poop too. I put one of their air filters next to a wix and it had around 2/3rds as much actual filtering media.
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Feb 15, 2017 00:47
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I wouldn't trust Fram at all - most filter failures will not be noticed as the failure mode just leads to unfiltered oil circulating around. Damage would be long term and hard to pinpoint, and probably blamed on something else like the engine manufacturer.
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Feb 15, 2017 06:03
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What's a good brand/line of brake pads for a daily driver? I put a set of Monroe Total Solutions on my Outback last time and they're so dusty turn my silver wheels gunmetal in a week. Good otherwise though.
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Feb 15, 2017 06:41
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Boys who love boys
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Hi, I got an oddball question. Hope some of the pro car guys here will have some insight though! I buy stuff on craigslist to sell on Amazon & Ebay and recently came across a large lot of about 500 old car owners manuals. Looking to see if there's any other good marketplaces besides Amazon/Ebay where people might be interested in buying these. These aren't for any sports cars or anything super fancy. They range from mid 1970s to the mid 90s. Probably 80% of these fall under GM's brands. I am thinking about throwing up an SA-Mart thread as well, but I am still sorting through these and getting them in a spreadsheet. Thanks AI!
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Feb 15, 2017 07:28
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monsterzero posted:What's a good brand/line of brake pads for a daily driver? Ceramics tend to produce a lot less dust, and the dust they do generate doesn't usually stick to anything. You'll pay quite a bit more for them, but they'll outlast semi-metallics and organics. Might be a little noisier though. I generally go with whatever ceramics that a parts store carries under their own brand.
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Feb 15, 2017 08:28
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