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GobiasIndustries posted:Rental apartment, bedroom has a ceiling fan w/ 4 bulbs. When I flip the light switch on, the bulbs all blink in unison but don't stay lit. Is this an easy fix or do I need to call the landlord? Replace one with an incandescent.
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Feb 10, 2017 19:29
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GobiasIndustries posted:Rental apartment, bedroom has a ceiling fan w/ 4 bulbs. When I flip the light switch on, the bulbs all blink in unison but don't stay lit. Is this an easy fix or do I need to call the landlord? Bozart posted:Replace one with an incandescent. Just to fill in, it sounds like the light switch might be a dimmer switch and the included bulbs are not dimmer compatible. An incandescent bulb would be though, and if it stays lit, you'll know that's the issue. Basically dimmer switches work by using a transistor to rapidly switch the voltage on and off. With an incandescent, the response isn't immediate, but a more analogue state where it will only ever warm up to the amount the current is being modulated by. With a basic LED bulb, the diode only has an on/off state, so you'll see flickering or blinking behavior. The fix is either buy dimmer compatible bulbs, or replace the dimmer switch with a $.49 cent single pole switch. Or, you know, tell the landlord. It's their responsibility either way, and you shouldn't be doing any kind of modifications as a tenant. E: Unless the fan is powered by a separate circuit, likely the fan shouldn't be on a dimmer switch as well, so assuming that's even the source of the issue, the correct fix is to have the landlord remove the dimmer. Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 20:50 on Feb 10, 2017 |
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Feb 10, 2017 20:39
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I've been in the apartment for 2.5 years and this is the 1st I've ever had an issue with the lights (e: haven't even changed the bulbs), would it really be a dimmer switch issue?
GobiasIndustries fucked around with this message at 20:51 on Feb 10, 2017 |
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Feb 10, 2017 20:46
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GobiasIndustries posted:I've been in the apartment for 2.5 years and this is the 1st I've ever had an issue with the lights (e: haven't even changed the bulbs), would it really be a dimmer switch issue? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiBNhKr6JGw Probably this. I had to replace one in my bedroom fan a while back. Not too difficult, but I'd get your landlord to do it.
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Feb 10, 2017 21:01
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The Bunk posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiBNhKr6JGw Ah, yeah, I'll give 'em a call, I don't wanna mess with that. They're really lovely landlords re: getting stuff fixed/taken care of (a 12 foot branch of a tree broke off last January and landed in the yard and they still haven't gotten anyone to remove it despite multiple calls from me and my neighbors  ) but everything else is great so I've gotten used to doing things myself where I can.
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Feb 10, 2017 21:11
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There's a surge suppressor power strip in the bedroom with an IKEA LED bedside lamp, iPhone (at night), and Vick's brand boiler-type humidifier plugged into it. The humidifier is only run in the evenings and only when required. Last night, the surge suppressor popped, and wouldn't come on again until I unplugged the humidifier. When I plugged it in again, the surge suppressor popped again. I didn't pursue it any further at the time because dealing with a bedside electrical fire at 3am is way the hell down on my list of things I want to do. I plugged the humidifier in again about 30 minutes ago to get the room to a comfortable sleeping humidity, and it's still burbling happily. What would cause this, and what should I do about it? It didn't run dry, and I've pulled far more current out of that outlet before.
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Feb 10, 2017 23:46
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hogmartin posted:There's a surge suppressor power strip in the bedroom with an IKEA LED bedside lamp, iPhone (at night), and Vick's brand boiler-type humidifier plugged into it. The humidifier is only run in the evenings and only when required. Last night, the surge suppressor popped, and wouldn't come on again until I unplugged the humidifier. When I plugged it in again, the surge suppressor popped again. I didn't pursue it any further at the time because dealing with a bedside electrical fire at 3am is way the hell down on my list of things I want to do. Are you sure the humidifier is in safe working order? How old is this surge protector?
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Feb 10, 2017 23:48
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kid sinister posted:Are you sure the humidifier is in safe working order? How old is this surge protector? They were both purchased within the last two years. I've been running the same setup off that surge suppressor for about two months. Actually, two months ago was when I got the humidifier. And no, I'm not qualified to determine that the humidifier is in safe working order. It's one of those drug store warm steam models, with no moving parts. When it gets power, it makes a cloud of steam. It doesn't seem to have any problems doing what it's supposed to, but it did trip the surge suppressor last night twice, which is unnerving. hogmartin fucked around with this message at 00:03 on Feb 11, 2017 |
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Feb 10, 2017 23:55
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I bought a bias lighting kit that plugs into a USB port. I put it on the back of my tv and plugged it into that but it doesn't automatically turn on when the tv does. I have to press a button on the cable. Is there an easy way to change this?
the littlest prince fucked around with this message at 01:25 on Feb 12, 2017 |
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Feb 12, 2017 01:23
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the littlest prince posted:I bought a bias lighting kit that plugs into a USB port. I put it on the back of my tv and plugged it into that but it doesn't automatically turn on when the tv does. I have to press a button on the cable. Is there an easy way to change this? Probably not. It sounds like your TV turns off the power to its own USB ports when it powers down.
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Feb 12, 2017 02:32
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Something to bear in mind regarding kitchen renovations is that, while you're doing the renovation, your ability to actually use the kitchen is sharply curtailed. It could well be worth paying someone to do it for you just to get it done faster, so you don't have 4+ months during which your kitchen is partially-disassembled and covered in dust, drop cloths, random power tools, etc. Even still, my kitchen remodel that I contracted out took three months. I wouldn't even think about doing a kitchen myself. It is the antithesis of "fix it fast"
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Feb 12, 2017 04:36
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HEY NONG MAN posted:Even still, my kitchen remodel that I contracted out took three months. I mean, it's definitely a big project to take on yourself, but generously, 2 days to demo, a day to move/add electric and plumbing, 2 days to rock, 2 days to tape/mud, 2 days to paint, 2 days for cabinets, 3 days for tile/grout, a day for trim. That's two weeks for a single person, and a decent chunk of those days are a couple hours of work, and then just waiting for stuff to dry (mud, paint, grout, etc) before being able to move forward. Then let's add 3 days for 'huh, that took longer than I figured'. But yeah, 2 weeks without a kitchen is unpleasant.
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Feb 12, 2017 06:14
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Anyone on the Northern NJ area that can recommend an hvac company? I want to get a quote for installing an attic a/c or a mini split system in my house. It's a small cape code with a boiler, so I'll need venting (unless I go with the mini split) but I want to get an idea of costs so I can start saving for next year.
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Feb 12, 2017 16:46
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HEY NONG MAN posted:Even still, my kitchen remodel that I contracted out took three months. Having just taken over a month to complete a kitchen floor remodel I can vouch for just paying someone to do it
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Feb 12, 2017 16:52
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the littlest prince posted:I bought a bias lighting kit that plugs into a USB port. I put it on the back of my tv and plugged it into that but it doesn't automatically turn on when the tv does. I have to press a button on the cable. Is there an easy way to change this? If you are fine with never being able to turn it off without unplugging it it might be simple enough to remove the switch from the circuit so it just powers right on when it's plugged into a live circuit. Do you have details or pictures of the button/circuit?
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Feb 12, 2017 17:11
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TV Mount update: There is some really funky stud spacing in the wall I mounted the TV to and I've gone from paranoid about falling to the mount being screwed into three studs. I'll take it.
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Feb 12, 2017 21:18
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HEY NONG MAN posted:
A friend that's been doing residential remodeling for over 30 years, joked to me that he was the "Divorcer" because so many clients- specifically kitchen remodels, ended up divorcing.
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Feb 12, 2017 22:03
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cakesmith handyman posted:If you are fine with never being able to turn it off without unplugging it it might be simple enough to remove the switch from the circuit so it just powers right on when it's plugged into a live circuit. Do you have details or pictures of the button/circuit? I actually realized later that I had gotten into the habit of turning it off along with the TV because it looked like it didn't turn off automatically. I stopped doing that and it did eventually turn off a couple minutes later, and then later when I turned it on again, the light turned on automatically. So it's acting as expected now, sorry to bother you, cakesmith and mr. sinister.
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Feb 13, 2017 00:56
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Any suggestions for good work bench legs for light usage? The surface is a couple of pieces of 2'x4' MDF (might extend that to 2x6), and I'd probably never have more than a few hundred pounds on it, but lateral stability is important. I was looking at stuff like this but they seem like overkill compared to just using some 4x4s with some sort of cross-bracing?
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Feb 13, 2017 19:51
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dupersaurus posted:Any suggestions for good work bench legs for light usage? The surface is a couple of pieces of 2'x4' MDF (might extend that to 2x6), and I'd probably never have more than a few hundred pounds on it, but lateral stability is important. I was looking at stuff like this but they seem like overkill compared to just using some 4x4s with some sort of cross-bracing? I've been dying to see one of these kits in action: https://smile.amazon.com/Hopkins-90...words=workbench
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Feb 13, 2017 19:59
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dupersaurus posted:Any suggestions for good work bench legs for light usage? The surface is a couple of pieces of 2'x4' MDF (might extend that to 2x6), and I'd probably never have more than a few hundred pounds on it, but lateral stability is important. I was looking at stuff like this but they seem like overkill compared to just using some 4x4s with some sort of cross-bracing? Replicate this with 2x4s at a tiny fraction of the cost. Put 2-4 screws into each joint.
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Feb 13, 2017 20:11
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Add one of these StrongTie Gussets (or similar) on each leg if you are really worried: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-3-1-4-in-18-Gauge-Gusset-Angle-GA2/100375243 Or build a 2x4 frame under each table and bolt that to each leg.
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Feb 13, 2017 23:23
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Jerk McJerkface posted:Anyone on the Northern NJ area that can recommend an hvac company? I want to get a quote for installing an attic a/c or a mini split system in my house. It's a small cape code with a boiler, so I'll need venting (unless I go with the mini split) but I want to get an idea of costs so I can start saving for next year. I've been using these guys so far: http://www.buildingsciencesllc.com/ ... however they haven't done any work yet (aside from an energy audit). I was happy with them through the sales process so far! You may or may not qualify for the stuff here: http://www.njcleanenergy.com/hp , which gives you various rebates/loans for doing things that save energy.
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Feb 14, 2017 00:53
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Is there a legal way to connect two driers to the same exhaust port going outside?
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Feb 14, 2017 02:15
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If I put 4 short hairpin legs on the flat end of a whiskey barrel do you think it will be too unstable to use as a table? It's like 2'6" diameter.
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Feb 14, 2017 03:15
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Safety Dance posted:I've been dying to see one of these kits in action: https://smile.amazon.com/Hopkins-90...words=workbench Are there any similar types of products like this? I seem to recall something that more resembled the strong tie stuff, more like metal brackets... can't remember the name to google for. EDIT: nevermind it WAS Strong-Tie.
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Feb 14, 2017 06:55
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knowonecanknow posted:Is there a legal way to connect two driers to the same exhaust port going outside? Dunno about legal but there's no safe/mechanically correct way of doing it. If only one is running it'll push exhaust into the idle one. If both are running and one is less powerful that'll get choked. If they're both perfectly synchronised and balanced they'll likely overwhelm the single vent. Unless the vent has a powered fan also, then it'll put the system under a slight vacuum. Supercharging your dryer would be pretty cool.
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Feb 14, 2017 14:42
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cakesmith handyman posted:
Though that might draw dry hot air out of your dryer before it has a chance to dry your clothes, killing its efficiency. This has to be a solved problem, though, how do large high-rises handle hundreds of clothes dryers installed in them?
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Feb 14, 2017 14:50
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You can absolutely run multiple dryers through one vent stack but the stack has to be designed to accommodate it and most residential installations don't make that easy even if it's possible. Back draft dampers are used to prevent back-flow but you also have to make sure your shared discharge ducting is large enough to handle both dryers and that the venting is all configured properly. You should consult a pro if you want to set something like that up.
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Feb 14, 2017 15:00
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I guess getting a hole saw is going to be the easier approach.
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Feb 14, 2017 16:16
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Safety Dance posted:I've been dying to see one of these kits in action: https://smile.amazon.com/Hopkins-90...words=workbench That does look interesting
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Feb 14, 2017 16:54
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Do I need to seal unglazed porcelain tiles on a bathroom floor and shower walls (not shower floor). The grout was made with grout boost, so it shouldn't need to be sealed. The tiles were supposed to have a grout release applied before grouting (maybe they did, I don't know), but is there any benefit to sealing the tiles now that everything is already grouted? edit: I have 1x2 polished marble mosaic tiles on the shower floor. I assume I should seal those regardless? Mr Executive fucked around with this message at 18:36 on Feb 14, 2017 |
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Feb 14, 2017 18:30
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devicenull posted:I've been using these guys so far: http://www.buildingsciencesllc.com/ ... however they haven't done any work yet (aside from an energy audit). I was happy with them through the sales process so far! Called and made an appointment. Seems pretty legit, thanks!
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Feb 14, 2017 18:32
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cakesmith handyman posted:Unless the vent has a powered fan also Dryer vent booster fans are a thing. They're used for situations where the dryer's own fan doesn't have enough umph to get the humid fuzz outside.
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Feb 14, 2017 18:49
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Also I need to decide about ductless vs an attic unit. The house has a boiler in the basement, it's a 1200sqft cape code with a finished attic, it has knee walls running the length of the upstairs, so there's some space in there for the attic units. I'd like to see how big they are to figure out if I can fit one up there. The knee walls leave an attic space that is about 4ft tall and maybe 5 feel long in the corner of the roof. I'm not sure how that works, but it'd be nice if it could all go up there.
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Feb 14, 2017 20:09
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Mr Executive posted:Do I need to seal unglazed porcelain tiles on a bathroom floor and shower walls (not shower floor). The grout was made with grout boost, so it shouldn't need to be sealed. The tiles were supposed to have a grout release applied before grouting (maybe they did, I don't know), but is there any benefit to sealing the tiles now that everything is already grouted? Yeah, and you shouldn't piss on marble either, so you may want to rethink the whole deal cause what's the point if a man can't piss in his own shower.
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Feb 15, 2017 03:07
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A friend loaned me a moisture meter that uses pins to take a reading. I'm not sure if my paint is ungodly thick or what but it was a pain in the rear end getting the pins into the wall. If I made some starter holes with a tiny nail will that work? I'm assuming the pins just need contact with the drywall and to be deep enough in the wall to work properly?
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Feb 15, 2017 21:01
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Teabag Dome Scandal posted:A friend loaned me a moisture meter that uses pins to take a reading. I'm not sure if my paint is ungodly thick or what but it was a pain in the rear end getting the pins into the wall. If I made some starter holes with a tiny nail will that work? I'm assuming the pins just need contact with the drywall and to be deep enough in the wall to work properly?
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Feb 16, 2017 04:45
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Also check and see if your moisture meter needs calibration. I was messing with an old one that we dug out of storage today, and we discovered that the our cast iron table saw table has a moisture content of 11.5%
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Feb 16, 2017 07:22
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Aside from the obvious "it measures moisture, you idiot", what is a moisture meter for? I've never heard of one. Is it for detecting water intrusion in a void space or something?
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Feb 16, 2017 15:35
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