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Methylethylaldehyde posted:California Air Tools, stupid quiet compressors, come in a variety of sizes and styles, and are about as expensive as a Sears version. I just bought one of these, and I cannot believe how quiet it is. You can just have a normal conversation while standing next to it as it runs.
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Feb 17, 2017 04:17
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My new toy has finally arrived, my first ever Angle Grinder! It was a great steal, regularly $60 it was $23 Canadian dollars on Amazon. Much more powerful than a Dremel, as Tim Taylor would say MORE POWER. Watch out rocks, I am coming for you! I wonder if this will finally satisfy my tool lust.....
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Feb 17, 2017 16:52
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Rutibex posted:My new toy has finally arrived, my first ever Angle Grinder! It was a great steal, regularly $60 it was $23 Canadian dollars on Amazon. Much more powerful than a Dremel, as Tim Taylor would say MORE POWER. Watch out rocks, I am coming for you! I wonder if this will finally satisfy my tool lust..... What are you doing to the poor rocks?
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Feb 17, 2017 17:25
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Astonishing Wang posted:What are you doing to the poor rocks? This sort of things was the plan: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xjkDScgFLEA
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Feb 17, 2017 17:47
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Raised by Hamsters posted:I just bought one of these, and I cannot believe how quiet it is. You can just have a normal conversation while standing next to it as it runs. One of us! One of us!
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Feb 17, 2017 17:53
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I'm having some trouble with my electric chainsaw. I was cutting into a log when the chain got bound up; I had to use a minor amount of force to free it. After that, the chain keeps slipping off the sprocket, or at least that's what I assume is happening -- at the first sign of resistance, the chain simply stops turning. The motor runs, and if I remove the cover I can see the sprocket turning. If I reassemble everything, it'll seem fine, with the chain moving as normal, but again as soon as I touch the moving chain to anything it'll just stop. Is that chainsaw powerful enough to actually cut medium or large trees into firewood? Like is it equivalent to at 38-50cc gas one? I really want to switch to electric because I hate gas.
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Feb 17, 2017 18:15
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patonthebach posted:Is that chainsaw powerful enough to actually cut medium or large trees into firewood? Like is it equivalent to at 38-50cc gas one? I really want to switch to electric because I hate gas. I don't have context for how powerful gas saws are; I've never used one. I suspect that even a weak gas saw is going to be more powerful than most electrics, but I did several rip cuts through 13" of wood. Slowly -- but I'm trying to cut precisely, not quickly, so slowness doesn't really bother me.
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Feb 17, 2017 18:18
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Rutibex posted:This sort of things was the plan: That poo poo makes my stomach clench up. No guard at all with a cutting wheel, no side handle, and just basic eye protection. All it would take is that cutting wheel grabbing wrong or kicking back and his hand could slide into the blade or it could be thrown into his legs/groin. Even if you avoid a part of your body touching the spinny bit, if you're using cutoff discs or grinding wheels, they can explode and throw pieces out at all angles with considerable velocity. One of the actors on the reality show "Moonshiners" lost most of his hand this season from an exploding angle grinder wheel. Maybe I'm a baby, but I never use my AG without a firm grip on the side handle, staying behind the guard at all times, and a full face shield + heavy clothing. edit: The scars are cool though: http://head-face-med.biomedcentral.com/articles/10.1186/1746-160X-4-1 (not for the squeamish.) B-Nasty fucked around with this message at 21:03 on Feb 17, 2017 |
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Feb 17, 2017 20:59
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B-Nasty posted:That poo poo makes my stomach clench up. No guard at all with a cutting wheel, no side handle, and just basic eye protection. All it would take is that cutting wheel grabbing wrong or kicking back and his hand could slide into the blade or it could be thrown into his legs/groin. Not only that, but I would be wetting down that rock as I was cutting into it to reduce the dust, and be wearing a full respirator. Seems like a fantastic way to develop silicosis. Rutibex posted:My new toy has finally arrived, my first ever Angle Grinder! It was a great steal, regularly $60 it was $23 Canadian dollars on Amazon. Much more powerful than a Dremel, as Tim Taylor would say MORE POWER. Watch out rocks, I am coming for you! I wonder if this will finally satisfy my tool lust..... Have you thought about just chiseling the rocks? I'd bet that it's a faster and more efficient way to carve them up anyhow. An angle grinder seems like a terrible way to approach this, I've just never heard of an angle grinder being used on rocks... Maybe a wet tile saw and diamond blade would work? Kudos on the grinder though, it's a fun tool regardless.
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Feb 17, 2017 21:35
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OSU_Matthew posted:Not only that, but I would be wetting down that rock as I was cutting into it to reduce the dust, and be wearing a full respirator. Seems like a fantastic way to develop silicosis. I already have safety glass and a dust mask, I guess I should get a full face shield as I have already got two warnings to that effect from separate sources  The grinder is just for the rough shaping, I have a Dremel for finer details. As to the chisel, well my man that was the second part of my order, I didn't think it was "cool" enough to post about. This is the kind of tool a ancient Roman would use lol:
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Feb 17, 2017 21:42
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I've been debating buying this face shield. I like that it's completely clear. https://raygear.com/index.php/x-shield-by-raygear-face-shield-safety-glasses-all-in-on-combination-safety-industrial-recreational-use.html Apparently it's the prop they use in Westworld for the medical techs. I saw Adam Savage got one which was how I found out about it.
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Feb 17, 2017 21:45
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Get two angle grinders. One for cutting, one for a flap disc. Never again shall I have to switch back and forth between discs!
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Feb 17, 2017 22:35
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Anyone have any experience with DeWalt angle grinders? A store near me is doing a deal of the month and selling a 4.5" one for $45, and the ones I see online are $60-$70 I've wanted an angle grinder forever so I'm really thinking about snapping one up.
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Feb 17, 2017 23:18
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Rutibex posted:I wonder if this will finally satisfy my tool lust..... Metal Geir Skogul posted:Get two angle grinders. It will never, ever, be satisfied.
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Feb 17, 2017 23:22
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Magres posted:Anyone have any experience with DeWalt angle grinders? A store near me is doing a deal of the month and selling a 4.5" one for $45, and the ones I see online are $60-$70 The one I got on Amazon is $27 right now: https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-BDEG400-Grinder-2-Inch/dp/B00RZV20CS/
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Feb 17, 2017 23:26
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Rutibex posted:I already have safety glass and a dust mask, I guess I should get a full face shield as I have already got two warnings to that effect from separate sources A cheapie dust mask is not gonna save you from silicosis. You want one that is rated at least N95. This is very important if you would like to avoid dying in a particularly unpleasant fashion.
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Feb 18, 2017 00:51
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Rutibex posted:The one I got on Amazon is $27 right now: Any idea how B&D grinders hold up, and how DeWalt ones hold up? I honestly don't know brands super well, though that thing is mighty tempting.
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Feb 18, 2017 01:35
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patonthebach posted:Is that chainsaw powerful enough to actually cut medium or large trees into firewood? Like is it equivalent to at 38-50cc gas one? I really want to switch to electric because I hate gas. I bought an Poulan electric to cut up a tree that fell in my front yard and the base of it was about 36" or so diameter. That was too much for the 14" electric but it was also too much for my neighbor's 14" gas, he had to go borrow a bigger Stihl for the trunk. The rest of the tree which included some sizable limbs was no problem for the electric although the bigger stuff was really beyond it's capacity and slow going. One issue I did have is that I had to adjust the chain tension frequently once the saw got hot. Other than that, it's a great little saw. If I were to buy another, it wouldn't be the Poulan just because it pukes oil if you don't store it bar pointing toward the ceiling and because of the chain tension issue. If I were cutting firewood then I would splurge for better quality like the Makita electric. What I like about my electric is that it's light and it always runs. I rarely use a chainsaw, so it might sit a year or two between uses. No plugs to replace, no gas to go bad -- just check the bar oil, plug it in and go. TooMuchAbstraction posted:I suspect that even a weak gas saw is going to be more powerful than most electrics... Actually they are about the same. A 14" electric is about the same power as a 14" gas, in my experience.
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Feb 18, 2017 08:23
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Magres posted:Any idea how B&D grinders hold up, and how DeWalt ones hold up? I honestly don't know brands super well, though that thing is mighty tempting. Dewalt's nickname is Default for a reason. Pretty good stuff all accross the board. They are both Stanley B+D companies, however. Dewalt is their top tier stuff, B+D is bottom tier, and Porter Cable or Bostitch somewhere in the middle.
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Feb 18, 2017 10:01
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Magres posted:Anyone have any experience with DeWalt angle grinders? A store near me is doing a deal of the month and selling a 4.5" one for $45, and the ones I see online are $60-$70 Here's a teardown of the DeWalt grinder to answer that exact question. Anyone here know much about metal working and lathes? I'm looking to build this part:  And thought it might be a good opportunity to pick up a miniature lathe. Doors anyone have any good recommendations for getting started?
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Feb 18, 2017 14:11
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Get two angle grinders. One for cutting, one for a flap disc. Three. One cheapo 18V with a cutoff disc to keep in your boot to cut off... boots.
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Feb 18, 2017 14:45
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I love the stone cutter is using an old Makita. I have one of those old rear end Makita grinders and it just keeps going. I've also got a newer 4" Makita, a 4.5" Metabo, and a 5"/6" Milwaukee. And a cordless Makita. And a Ryobi I bought when I was traveling for a job once. And several air grinders.  Leave the guards on your grinders unless you absolutely need to remove it for a cut, then put it back on. Wear a legit respirator, hearing protection, and a full face shield.
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Feb 18, 2017 15:49
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OSU_Matthew posted:Anyone here know much about metal working and lathes? I'm looking to build this part:
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Feb 18, 2017 16:10
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Or 3D printing it, casting that in plaster, melting out the plastic, then pouring metal ala mekilljoydamnit.
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Feb 18, 2017 16:13
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sharkytm posted:Leave the guards on your grinders unless you absolutely need to remove it for a cut, then put it back on. And when the guard gets lost anyway, that is the grinder that gets dedicated for flap disc use.
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Feb 18, 2017 19:13
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peepsalot posted:It looks like the part was cast, not machined. What do you intend to do about all those pockets and thin walls when the piece is spinning in a lathe? Probably better off learning to make some forms out of wood or something, and sand casting it. Mrpete222 (aka tubalcain) is an old guy on YouTube that has a lot of educational lathe videos as well as how to make forms for casting model engine flywheels etc, I'd check out some of his stuff. Once you have cast the overall shape you can turn it to a shiny smooth surface and precise diameter on a lathe if that aspect is important. Sorry, I should have been more specific with what the part is for. It's just a clampable base with a post to insert a swivel arm for one of these Mantis stereo microscopes (gray ring on the bottom of the swivel arm)  I picked up an old unit and it's missing the base, so I figured I could build one by cutting down some circular stock for the post on a lathe, and drill out a small insert on the base to clamp onto. Thought it'd be a good project to get into milling. All the ridges and fancy pieces are just to reinforce the plastic, I just need the basic post and notched base. Just trying to figure out how to make a similar-ish piece that's strong enough to handle the lever weight of the arm fully extended. Might be easier to just grab some circular stock of the correct dimensions and tap the bottom for a base plate or something.
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Feb 18, 2017 20:18
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With a lathe and a mill you could do that in an hour or so. Get a piece of stock bigger than the total part size, lathe it to final diameter and then cut the slot with an endmill on the mill. If you didn't need the slot cut in it because you're going to bolt it to a clamping base, you could lathe that part out of aluminum or delrin in a half hour.
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Feb 18, 2017 21:28
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Methylethylaldehyde posted:With a lathe and a mill you could do that in an hour or so. Get a piece of stock bigger than the total part size, lathe it to final diameter and then cut the slot with an endmill on the mill. If you didn't need the slot cut in it because you're going to bolt it to a clamping base, you could lathe that part out of aluminum or delrin in a half hour. Thanks! That's exactly what I'm hoping to do. Are there any decent cheap Chinese benchtop lathes you might recommend, eg something like this grizzly? Also, where's a good place to get metal stock from? I'm looking at metalsdepot.com and it's ~250$ for a foot of 6" round aluminum 6061 stock
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Feb 19, 2017 15:59
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OSU_Matthew posted:Also, where's a good place to get metal stock from? I'm looking at metalsdepot.com and it's ~250$ for a foot of 6" round aluminum 6061 stock https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_mPrDN6Qe8g
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Feb 19, 2017 16:11
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OSU_Matthew posted:Thanks! That's exactly what I'm hoping to do. Are there any decent cheap Chinese benchtop lathes you might recommend, eg something like this grizzly? It looks like the larger OD is for design and only the thrust bearing face and stem are critical to function so smaller round bar and a square plate from the offcut bin would save you some money. Then maybe add a plastic washer or stick on film to provide the thrust bearing if needed. Also, the plate size and shape can minimize your moment and allow more clamps/bolts to hold it down.
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Feb 19, 2017 18:19
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OSU_Matthew posted:Thanks! That's exactly what I'm hoping to do. Are there any decent cheap Chinese benchtop lathes you might recommend, eg something like this grizzly? You should have a local metals supply place you can go browse for stuff at. Or a plastics supply house, really. Lots of places you can source stuff like this from. Buying metals online is only really a good deal when you need something exotic or something your local place can't order for you.
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Feb 20, 2017 06:02
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^^ I'll google around then. I've just never looked for any kind of raw materials like this beyond the big box stores, and their raw steel is just as expensive. Gimme another year or two and I guarantee that'll be next on my projects radar  bred posted:It looks like the larger OD is for design and only the thrust bearing face and stem are critical to function so smaller round bar and a square plate from the offcut bin would save you some money. Then maybe add a plastic washer or stick on film to provide the thrust bearing if needed. Also, the plate size and shape can minimize your moment and allow more clamps/bolts to hold it down. Right, I can probably just measure the inner diameter of the socket with my calipers once it comes in and pick up some stock already at the right size, and weld that to a base plate. Thanks for leading me to the right conclusion. I just really really really wanted an excuse to buy a lathe and start chipping away 
Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 06:28 on Feb 20, 2017 |
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Feb 20, 2017 06:25
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That ryobi 18v cordless nailer is on sale right now if anyone is interested: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=353275
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Feb 20, 2017 22:45
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BraveUlysses posted:That ryobi 18v cordless nailer is on sale right now if anyone is interested: I was late replying to it when this came up on the last page but I own one of these - it's the only Ryobi tool I own - and it's loving awesome. I bought the bare tool and then a drill/driver/circular saw combo for the batteries and charger then sold those tools online individually for the same price I paid for the kid, basically ending up with two free 1.5ah batteries and a free charger. Those don't last long enough so I bought a 2-pack of 4ah batteries and now I'm totally satisfied. Each battery basically lasts a full day of installing trim and the cordless brad gun is super convenient. It's awesome not needing to lug around or wait for the compressor when you just need to work on a few pieces of trim and in thousands and thousands of brads it's never jammed on me. I was seriously contemplating the more expensive Milwaukee 18ga cordless nailer but saw a comparison video where despite costing much more it jammed more often and had to take breaks from overheating. Comparatively the Ryobi costs less and jammed less. I don't think i've been happier with a tool purchase in a long time and that's coming from a guy who generally hates Ryobi and other DIYer brands.
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Feb 23, 2017 01:59
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Somehow, last week I ended up entering the Milwaukee 18v realm with not one, but two tools. I bought this first, I've been lusting after the high torque version for a while, but when I saw the mid torque I knew I had to have it. It's meant to replace an Ingersoll Rand 231C (it seems like everyone and their mother owns one of these) and it does an excellent job.  Then, I decided I needed a light to detail my car with, but why buy a corded one when this badass piece of equipment exists? I also plan to use it for when my family and I go trailer camping, since it will run all night on low with a 5.0 battery. 
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Feb 27, 2017 06:52
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Freaking stellar https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-7--fzZE2qk
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Feb 27, 2017 09:42
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Katosabi posted:Somehow, last week I ended up entering the Milwaukee 18v realm with not one, but two tools. This reminds me: I am lazy/cheap/dumb and have been (carefully, but still inadvisably) using my regular chrome socket set with my impact driver whenever it comes up that I could use some extra torque. Does anyone have suggestions for a decent-but-not-absurd impact-rated socket set?
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Feb 27, 2017 20:10
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The Harbor freight ones are the usual recommendation.
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Feb 27, 2017 20:13
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Hubis posted:This reminds me: I am lazy/cheap/dumb and have been (carefully, but still inadvisably) using my regular chrome socket set with my impact driver whenever it comes up that I could use some extra torque. Does anyone have suggestions for a decent-but-not-absurd impact-rated socket set? Another vote for the HF ones. They've been doing the job for me, and I use the hell out of them. Please please please please stop using chrome sockets on an impact.
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Feb 27, 2017 20:15
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Motronic posted:Please please please please stop using chrome sockets on an impact. Ordered!
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Feb 27, 2017 20:50
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