|
Meow Meow Meow posted:I finally finished up my bookshelf and dresser. Building two pieces of furniture at once definitely put my shop at capacity. The primary wood for both is butternut, drawer fronts on the shelf are walnut with cherry pulls. I've built enough drawers for a while, working on a staked stool and a couple of other staked pieces next. Pardon my French but those are loving gorgeous, man. Do you have measured drawings for them? I'd like to build a bookshelf like that myself.
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2017 16:20
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 31, 2024 00:10 |
|
|
Hot drat, son!
|
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2017 17:10
|
|
|
This is really fantastic work, nicely done.
|
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2017 17:32
|
|
|
Meow Meow Meow posted:I finally finished up my bookshelf and dresser. Building two pieces of furniture at once definitely put my shop at capacity. The primary wood for both is butternut, drawer fronts on the shelf are walnut with cherry pulls. I've built enough drawers for a while, working on a staked stool and a couple of other staked pieces next. Dude, you're a treasure.
|
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2017 17:34
|
|
|
wormil posted:I would go for the last one but $700 is high. If this were 2003 he would be spot on. If he would do $550 for all of it, you should jump on it. Then ditch the sheet metal left wing and replace it with a router table/wing. Thank you! The $250 Delta is gone, unsurprisingly. I am likely going to delay two weeks before buying, because we're going out of town, but the links I posted seem representative of what is generally available so it's great to have advice like this.
|
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2017 19:01
|
|
|
I like it, very nice. I'll be glad when I finish this remodeling work and can make a side table for my chair.
|
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2017 21:14
|
|
|
Meow Meow Meow posted:I finally finished up my bookshelf and dresser. Building two pieces of furniture at once definitely put my shop at capacity. The primary wood for both is butternut, drawer fronts on the shelf are walnut with cherry pulls. I've built enough drawers for a while, working on a staked stool and a couple of other staked pieces next. Nice! I'll second the request for plans, if they're available. Related question: I'm midway through making a bookshelf myself. The plans call for 1/4" shiplapped paneling. I rough-cut the panels by resawing some 4/4 wood, then let them sit awhile to acclimate, then planed them down to about 3/8" by planing alternate sides of each board. I'm actually happy to use 3/8" for the panels instead of 1/4"...but the problem is that several of the boards went and cupped on me, despite having had time to acclimate and despite that I didn't remove that much material when I planed them down. Any suggestions for fixing this and/or for avoiding cupping in the future? The cupping isn't too extreme so I may be able to just fit them into their slots anyway with a little persuasion from the mallet. It's annoying, though, because I thought I was taking appropriate steps but the boards cupped anyway.
|
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2017 21:31
|
|
|
Sorry I don't have any suggestions, I've never had a board cup after planing, but 1/4" shiplap? 
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2017 02:52
|
|
|
Well I finally finished a version of the small boombox posted here a couple months ago(plans). Sounds decent enough for 2 3" speakers. The front is a cherry panel, the rest is mdf. I never want to spray paint mdf again.  I used this bluetooth amp from parts express, if I were to do it again I'd grab the 30w version for another $10 to have some more headroom. The bluetooth volume on this is probably 60% of the plugged in volume.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2017 02:58
|
|
|
It looks good if a bit beefy for the speaker size. How much spray paint did it take to get that nice finish?
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2017 03:21
|
|
|
wormil posted:It looks good if a bit beefy for the speaker size. How much spray paint did it take to get that nice finish? It is pretty big, but if you want any sort of bass out of a small speaker, that's the tradeoff. I used a little over a can. Wet sanding the top to 800 grit before the last coat made for the nice finish. I think if I need to finish another mdf project in the future I'm coating the whole drat thing in joint compound first if I'm going to paint it. It took 3-4 coats before the mdf stopped soaking it up.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2017 03:25
|
|
|
wormil posted:Sorry I don't have any suggestions, I've never had a board cup after planing, but 1/4" shiplap? These panels are just the sides/back of the bookshelf, so they're not exactly structural. I assume the shiplapping is just so there's no visible gap between panels, so I'm making it just big enough to get a decent glue surface.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2017 03:57
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:These panels are just the sides/back of the bookshelf, so they're not exactly structural. I assume the shiplapping is just so there's no visible gap between panels, so I'm making it just big enough to get a decent glue surface. Maybe shiplap means something different to me. When I think shiplap, I think 3/4 boards with half lapping rabbets where each board is fastened (nailed usually) individually to allow movement while still providing some structural support. In a bookcase the boards usually run vertical, horizontal on a wall. Examples https://www.lowes.com/creative-ideas/images/2016_08/September/create-an-accent-wall-with-shiplap-102771988.jpg https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/564x/42/ca/d3/42cad3bd4ab678dad3b3c69343b878ed.jpg http://www.buffalo-lumber.com/shiplap-siding.htm
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2017 07:59
|
|
|
wormil posted:Maybe shiplap means something different to me. When I think shiplap, I think 3/4 boards with half lapping rabbets where each board is fastened (nailed usually) individually to allow movement while still providing some structural support. In a bookcase the boards usually run vertical, horizontal on a wall. This is also what I think of with regards to shiplap. I think what he's describing is a "shiplap shaped" scarf joint for joining two thin panels used as the back of a carcass, which is something I've only personally seen in flat pack furniture but I don't doubt it exists outside of that space. Too much abstraction, why not just use one solid 1/4" panel for the whole thing? Why the shiplapping?
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2017 17:58
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:These panels are just the sides/back of the bookshelf, so they're not exactly structural. I assume the shiplapping is just so there's no visible gap between panels, so I'm making it just big enough to get a decent glue surface. Glued 1/4" shiplappery? Ruh-roh. 
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2017 18:19
|
|
|
wormil posted:Maybe shiplap means something different to me. When I think shiplap, I think 3/4 boards with half lapping rabbets where each board is fastened (nailed usually) individually to allow movement while still providing some structural support. In a bookcase the boards usually run vertical, horizontal on a wall. Yep, that's what was in the plans, and no, they don't explain why the boards should be shiplapped. Like I said, I think it was just for aesthetics.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2017 18:54
|
|
|
After watching this I decided that I had to get an old stanley and radius the blade. If you haven't I highly recommend it, works great.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2017 18:55
|
|
|
I covered the back of the bookcase I made with some pre-cut spruce 1/4" t&g. It's cupped randomly and some of the boards have shrunk lengthways slightly. It's only an issue because it's visible, what's best to replace it with or is there a good way to fix this?
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2017 19:04
|
|
|
cakesmith handyman posted:I covered the back of the bookcase I made with some pre-cut spruce 1/4" t&g. It's cupped randomly and some of the boards have shrunk lengthways slightly. It's only an issue because it's visible, what's best to replace it with or is there a good way to fix this? Replace it with 1/4" plywood.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2017 19:08
|
|
|
Tres Burritos posted:After watching this I decided that I had to get an old stanley and radius the blade. How did you radius the blade? Grinder or by hand?
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2017 19:10
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:Yep, that's what was in the plans, and no, they don't explain why the boards should be shiplapped. Like I said, I think it was just for aesthetics. Oh, I see. The shiplapped bookcases I've seen had the back pieces in a rabbet so they needed the extra thickness for support. He's using thinner stock and putting it in a groove, creating a shiplapped post and panel. Partly for aesthetics, partly to allow movement. Fixing cup in 1/4, or even 3/8 boards is a tough one. I would let them relax for a few days and see what happens.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2017 19:29
|
|
|
Falcon2001 posted:How did you radius the blade? Grinder or by hand? Grinder, also recommended.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2017 20:50
|
|
|
http://www.pbs.org/video/2172600556/ Hand Plane Essentials with Chris Schwarz
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2017 21:12
|
|
|
Tres Burritos posted:Grinder, also recommended. Yeah doing it without a grinder is possible but takes a huge amount of time.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2017 21:13
|
|
|
Nobody seems to mention it a lot of the time in beginner sharpening videos/articles, but a cheap 8" bench grinder and an aluminum-oxide wheel is ridiculously useful for regrinding tools. Bonus points if you can get a 1750 rpm or variable speed grinder instead.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2017 21:44
|
|
|
Hypnolobster posted:Nobody seems to mention it a lot of the time in beginner sharpening videos/articles, but a cheap 8" bench grinder and an aluminum-oxide wheel is ridiculously useful for regrinding tools. Bonus points if you can get a 1750 rpm or variable speed grinder instead. That's another thing you can use a radial arm saw with....but I think it may be double that rpm.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2017 22:08
|
|
|
Tres Burritos posted:After watching this I decided that I had to get an old stanley and radius the blade. I *just* discovered this video, and as someone with babby's first No 5 who is just getting into woodworking "fundamentals" I found this to be foundational. This should be in an OP somewhere. Speaking of which, I mentioned back that I got some vintage planes off of ebay. After the terror of spending so much on something I knew so little about, I was pretty pleased with the haul: #4, #5, #7, and a #60-1/2 all in apparently decent shape. I went through the process of figuring out how they should be sharpened, realizing I messed it up, then fixing some of them again! Figuring out that I should clean up my chip breakers as well, then realizing that some blades should be more radiused, re-sharpening, and finally making some really good progress. It's amazing how much I feel like I've learned both in knowledge and technique over this one tiny project. I'm taking the advice and building some Schwarz-style saw benches before I start in on the Nicholson. It's been a great decision -- it gives me a chance to do something manageable in cost and scope that will be primarily functional so I don't have to worry about messing up too much. I'm cheating by using my circular saw (with a guide) to rip, but I went through the process described in the video above to prep the stock and it's been a great learning experience. I am still struggling with getting the planes tuned in right -- how to get the throat set correctly, how deep to set the blade, figuring out the right direction/pressure, avoiding tear-out, etc. None of this is made easier by the fact that I am working with a bunch of pieces of wood clamped to an award height bench-top, but I feel like I'm getting there. Of course in the process the handle on my #4 snapped right in half (looks like there was a hairline break that had been "repaired" before) and the screw that holds down the blade on my #5 stripped the threads right out of the body  I'm not sure if either of these are my fault or the tribulations of vintage planes, but I've got some new parts/thread repair goop on the way so hopefully I'll be back in business next weekend.Some quick questions: - I'm working with Fir, since that was suggested and was cheap/plentiful at the local Big Box. Is it just my inexperience, or is it really prone to splintering/tearing out? I'm generally getting better at reducing the occurances, but it feels like no matter how careful I am I still get some nasty surfaces even being careful with my #4. - Is there a good way to avoid tearing out at the edges when flattening across the grain with a jack plane? I'm getting a lot of narrow splinters (as opposed to the long, beautiful ribbons I get going along the grain, and I'm chipping out nasty splinters at the edge on occasion (even after having chamfered the edge like Schwarz recommends). Is my blade depth just too aggressive?
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2017 22:18
|
|
|
So, got a couple Gramercy Tools holdfasts and after some finagling and all that, got a hole, installed it...and they aren't working so hot. I put it in, strike the top and it holds...but as soon as any wiggle is applied to the held item the holdfast comes loose. Retracting steps so someone can point out where I hosed up: Bench thickness is approximately 3.75". (I suspect this could be the cause and my next step is to drill upward a larger area as they suggest.) Got a jig from amazon to work as a straight drilling aid. Seems to work pretty well, and made sure my surface was level and bored the hole through the bench. Used a 3/4" augur bit. Roughed up the holdfasts a little bit with some sandpaper. (round and round, not up and down) Dropped the holdfast in. It has just a tiny bit of wiggle room. put some leather on the underside and then struck the top relatively hard with a wooden mallet. Any ideas other than bench thickness? Guess I'm glad I just picked up a new battery operated drill. Hubis posted:I *just* discovered this video, and as someone with babby's first No 5 who is just getting into woodworking "fundamentals" I found this to be foundational. This should be in an OP somewhere. I build my bench out of douglas Fir and I had very similar experiences with tear out and splintering; I also could not chalk it up to whether I was inexperienced or simply an issue with the wood, but there's another vote for 'maybe it sucks'. I also don't know how to avoid the tearout. Sorry.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2017 01:12
|
|
|
I have issues with my gramercy holdfasts when I first bought them but after roughing them up slightly with sandpaper I've not had any issues. Are you using the holdfast in tandem with a planing stop? Are you trying to have a single holdfast resist rotational forces?
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2017 01:21
|
|
|
I'm benchless right now, but my previous bench was 4.25" thick and I pinged my gramercy holdfasts with a punch and a hammer. Got the idea from here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S7lnfW4iT6o Worked really well. Sandpaper helped, but this made all the difference.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2017 01:24
|
|
|
Big box fir is brittle but straighter and more dry than pine or spruce, at least in my experience. It's a trade off.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2017 01:36
|
|
|
Falcon2001 posted:So, got a couple Gramercy Tools holdfasts and after some finagling and all that, got a hole, installed it...and they aren't working so hot. I put it in, strike the top and it holds...but as soon as any wiggle is applied to the held item the holdfast comes loose. I had the exact same issue with the holdfasts - the issue for me was that my benchtop was too thick. You're probably looking for a thickness of about 2 - 2.5" at the outside. Basically I just took a Forstner bit and counterdrilled from under the benchtop and they work fine now. If the top is too thick, the holdfast won't be able to cant over and create that leverage that allows it to grip.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2017 01:53
|
|
|
GEMorris posted:I have issues with my gramercy holdfasts when I first bought them but after roughing them up slightly with sandpaper I've not had any issues. Are you using the holdfast in tandem with a planing stop? Are you trying to have a single holdfast resist rotational forces? I was using it to hold something I was sawing, which probably does create rotational forces. I'll drill another hole for the second one and try using two. Skippy Granola posted:I had the exact same issue with the holdfasts - the issue for me was that my benchtop was too thick. You're probably looking for a thickness of about 2 - 2.5" at the outside. Alright cool, this is exactly what I figured. I've got a big forstner bit all ready to go.  Hypnolobster posted:I'm benchless right now, but my previous bench was 4.25" thick and I pinged my gramercy holdfasts with a punch and a hammer. Oooh. That looks nice. Might try that anyway.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2017 01:59
|
|
|
Falcon2001 posted:I was using it to hold something I was sawing, which probably does create rotational forces. I'll drill another hole for the second one and try using two. If it was a crosscut then try using a bench hook if you weren't. The hook + holdfast is generally pretty solid, as the hook keeps the piece from rotating etc. Sounds like you may have some other options to explore for improving grip, just don't give up as these holdfasts definitely do work.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2017 02:58
|
|
|
Holdfast chat: Make one of these and see how you like it. I absolutely love them. I even use them with thru-clamps on my assembly table. I'm one of those plane-dragger types and I like to secure between stops, and this is an awesome way to do it. It's also how I hold things down for routing, etc. Saves on the double stick tape. http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/modern-high-traction-foot
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2017 03:05
|
|
|
I have like a 3 and some inch benchtop and the thing that helped most was roughing up the inside of the holdfast hole with a chisel.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2017 05:33
|
|
|
Hypnolobster posted:Holdfast chat: The doe's foot is right behind only the holdfast when it comes to "things that revolutionized the way I do woodworking" I really can't imagine working without them. Going back to clamping in an end vise? No thanks.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2017 06:14
|
|
|
Got the first door for my aviary built and installed! Still need to add the mesh to it so it can actually keep birds in, but that's the lest of things. Frankly it's not straight at all, it's just sufficiently flexible to look so when locked. Maybe I'll build some better doors with better wood. Some day.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2017 16:36
|
|
|
Cleaned up and rearranged my shop this weekend in preparation for some projects. I've got one more thing to do and I kinda dread but also kind of look forward to it ... I need to tear out the built in shelves in the back of shop and replace them with proper lumber storage shelves. The downside is that everything back there will have to come out and go -- somewhere, while I'm working on it.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2017 22:26
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 31, 2024 00:10 |
|
|
wormil posted:Cleaned up and rearranged my shop this weekend in preparation for some projects. I've got one more thing to do and I kinda dread but also kind of look forward to it ... I need to tear out the built in shelves in the back of shop and replace them with proper lumber storage shelves. The downside is that everything back there will have to come out and go -- somewhere, while I'm working on it. Condolences and godspeed. I did this about 9 months ago and it was rough, but in the end it was absolutely worth it.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2017 00:41
|
|