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Helen Highwater posted:How does the BlackRapid attach to the camera? From the picture it looks like a eye that screws into the tripod mount. Is there anything that stops it from unscrewing itself if it swings around? I have a Rollei sling strap at the moment and it has a locking system so that it can't unscrew unless you press it in first. Unfortunately you have to take it off if you want to put the camera on a tripod which is a pain. I'd love a system like the Carryspeed one that attaches via a plate that is tapped and drilled for tripods so you don't have to keep taking it on and off. the blackrapid connector just has a textured rubber ring on it to try and stop it from unscrewing. i have one of those connectors attached to a little 1" kirk clamp, so i can just attach the clamp to tripod plate and hang from my strap, never had an issue with the connector unscrewing
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Feb 13, 2017 20:10
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Helen Highwater posted:How does the BlackRapid attach to the camera? From the picture it looks like a eye that screws into the tripod mount. Is there anything that stops it from unscrewing itself if it swings around? The hook that grabs onto the tripod mount ring is on its own swivel. 
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Feb 13, 2017 20:45
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The fact the hook has an axis of freedom from the swivel is an very important feature. You can also put some Blue Loctite in there if you're overly cautious (Blue is non-permanent and can be removed with normal hand tools). If you need L-Plate/Arca-Swiss compatibility, one solution is to attach the hook on the strap to an Arca-Swiss clamp. I did this for years with heavy gear and had no problems there either. See image:  You can also buy an Arca-Swiss compatible fastener/plate from BlackRapid, but that would mean you need to buy one for each body/lens you were mounting to. Instead, I highly recommend Really Right Stuff (for this and almost everything else tripod related). BitesizedNike fucked around with this message at 21:02 on Feb 13, 2017 |
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Feb 13, 2017 20:56
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Slowhanded posted:I highly recommend Really Right Stuff (for this and almost everything else tripod related). I prefer Kirk Photo because they don't give money to anti-gay-rights causes.
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Feb 13, 2017 21:53
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MrBlandAverage posted:I prefer Kirk Photo because they don't give money to anti-gay-rights causes. +1 This is the clamp I use: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/555485-REG/Kirk_QRC_1_0_QRC_1_Quick_Release_Clamp.html It's very small and non-instrusive, and made by a quality manufacturer that I trust to not have it fall apart on me and spill everything to the concrete. This past fall though, I tried out the peak capture clip when I took my kids to disney because having my camera swinging around from a sling strap has always been a problem when trying to manage them (gets in the way when picking them up, etc) While it does bunch the waistband of your pants up a bit, it was much more convenient than a strap IMO. Super dorky looking though.
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Feb 13, 2017 22:11
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The Peak Design straps are really nice and easy quick release as well.
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Feb 13, 2017 22:21
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MrBlandAverage posted:I prefer Kirk Photo because they don't give money to anti-gay-rights causes. loving hell, have I now got to vet my photo equipment suppliers before buying anything? It used to be that all you had to worry about was whether the stuff worked and what their return policy was; now I have be aware that I could be supporting disgusting bigotry I am not sure I like being an Informed Consumer.
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Feb 13, 2017 23:29
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Check eBay for arcaswiss plates too. I picked up one that is form fitting to my 6d and has 3 tripod thread holes for my black rapid. It's a small plate so I leave on all the time.
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Feb 14, 2017 08:17
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Helen Highwater posted:How does the BlackRapid attach to the camera? From the picture it looks like a eye that screws into the tripod mount. Is there anything that stops it from unscrewing itself if it swings around? Yes. It has a feature that no one mentioned yet, between the eye screw and the camera there is a rubber plate. In addition to providing friction the rubber plate has some negative groves which lines up with some positive groves on the eyebolt, preventing them from unscrewing. It is quite noticeable when you tighten the eyebolt, right when it feels like you have tightened it enough it kinda "pops" into place, and any kind of unscrewing by wiggling is prevented by these groves.
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Feb 14, 2017 11:16
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jackpot posted:Quality strap brands? Nothing fancy needed, although quick release is nice. I wouldn't mind something cloth/woven, but everything I see on amazon is ugly as hell. Rangefinders / small cameras: http://lancecamerastraps.com/ DSLR / big mirrorless: https://www.peakdesign.com/ Once you get to about 5lbs the lance straps aren't so hot as they're all narrow and dig. But they are a lot cheaper than the Artisan & Artist straps and the build quality is better. The big fat peak design strap is great. I got a couple ONA straps from a trade show and they're somewhere in between.
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Feb 14, 2017 18:16
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Reposting my dumb question form the General Photography Questions thread. I'm looking at a Minolta Auto Meter III right now. It doesn't have a shoe mount, but it looks like it does everything else, and it's relatively cheap. Any other suggestions would be welcome though. Or tell me why a Minolta Auto Meter III sucks. SMERSH Mouth posted:My general photography question is geared toward film shooting. ...Looking at some of the analog-style dial meters out there, they appear to have printed shutter speeds that only go out to like 8 or 16 seconds, so I'm thinking they can't meter super-dark scenes. The Minolta goes out to 30 minutes, though. I've never used a separate light meter before (besides an app on my phone, which doesn't really meter below EV 1 as far as I can tell), so I could be way off on all this. But the Minolta seems like it should be usable, eh? E: Cool \/\/\/\/ good to know SMERSH Mouth fucked around with this message at 20:26 on Feb 15, 2017 |
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Feb 15, 2017 20:20
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Minolta meters are what Sekonic meters used to be (before they sold it off when they got out of the camera biz). They're the gold standard.
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Feb 15, 2017 20:24
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How dark are you trying to meter here? Do you have an example scene?
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Feb 15, 2017 22:20
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So, I collect light meters — My thoughts: I'm assuming you're set on incident. Choose either digital or analog display. I personally prefer analog as that means I don't have to scroll through to see my various exposures, but this is a total personal preference. For digital, the Minolta Auto III is real good. They go down to EV -2.4, which is a half stop lower than even the best modern digital Sekonic. That said, the low light champion is the analog Gossen Profisix / Luna Pro SBC (same meter, different names for EU/USA) which is easily my favorite meter. It goes down to a whopping EV -5, with 8 hour max exposure time. I did a lot of long exposures back in college for a project, and this thing is an absolute champion of a meter. However, it's pretty chunky. That said, it's a solid, well-made meter, and I've had no issue whatsoever. It also takes a normal 9V. Both are 'system' meters in that there are a number of accessories for them. The Minolta I believe you can get a 10° spot attachment for, while the Gossen has a range of spot meters. That said, if you need a spot reading, I much prefer having a standalone meter built expressly for that purpose (e.g., a Minolta or Pentax Spot Meter). The Calcu-light XP goes to EV -7, but two have just died on me without any other sign. I don't think they're worth the effort of trying to find them. BitesizedNike fucked around with this message at 23:17 on Feb 15, 2017 |
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Feb 15, 2017 23:01
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I ask what type of scene he's attempting to expose mostly because my experience with long exposures has shown me that most of the time I metered in super low light was unnecessary. A metered 8 hour exposure is useless once you factor in reciprocity and the basic fact that the earth is rotating Most of the time below EV0 I think you could get away with guessing based on a chart.
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Feb 15, 2017 23:53
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Once the weather gets better I'm planning on taking my SLR kit hiking with me. I'm going to pick up a backpack (as opposed to the thinktank retrospective I have now) and am going to go with Lowepro - Whistler BP 450 AW as it seems to fit me nicely. The backpack will be good for holding my gear, but I won't have anything for keeping the camera out when I'm hiking. I feel like my black rapid strap will bounce around too much on a hike and it gets int the way when I have a backpack on. Is there anything that can attach to the backpack straps? I saw something that attaches an SLR to one strap, but that would be unbalanced and annoying. The only solution that I'm aware of is wearing a Cotton Carrier but it kinda seems like an overkill. Thoughts?
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Feb 16, 2017 23:04
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Haggins posted:Once the weather gets better I'm planning on taking my SLR kit hiking with me. I'm going to pick up a backpack (as opposed to the thinktank retrospective I have now) and am going to go with Lowepro - Whistler BP 450 AW as it seems to fit me nicely. I've been hiking with my sling strap and haven't found it to be all that annoying, but that might be ymmv. I've also worn it and backpacks at the same time with no problem there.
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Feb 16, 2017 23:10
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dupersaurus posted:I've been hiking with my sling strap and haven't found it to be all that annoying, but that might be ymmv. I've also worn it and backpacks at the same time with no problem there. I'll give it a try. Do you do anything to clip it to your hip or does it just stay in place for you?
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Feb 17, 2017 00:35
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Fwiw I don't find that a camera on a sling strap bounces around too much either, but if you want to attach a camera to a backpack strap then the thing you are looking for is a Peak Design capture clip.
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Feb 17, 2017 00:48
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Haggins posted:I'll give it a try. Do you do anything to clip it to your hip or does it just stay in place for you? No, I let it swing freely. I try to keep it behind my hip, and if I'm not in a photo stretch I might adjust the limit clip to keep it in place. At worst, holding it in place isn't too inconvenient.
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Feb 17, 2017 00:58
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Slowhanded posted:
I was looking at a Luna Pro that took PX mercury cell batteries (or adapted LR44s) and had a CDS cell meter. I guess then SBCs are newer? And they're pretty cheap, actually. hmmm ansel autisms posted:How dark are you trying to meter here? Do you have an example scene? Darkest I'd really want to go would be full moonlit landscape with no nearby artificial light sources. No star trails. No apertures smaller than f/22. More like f/16 most of the time. 6x7 or 6x9. I have a couple of recent examples of the kind of 'dark scenes' that I normally shoot, but they really have to go along with an account of the dumb series of events that lead to my decision to get a real light meter. Proceed with caution. I used some haphazard methods and estimation to get this, a well-exposed shot (for my standards):  I liked it, except that it was on 400H - a film that I have discovered I don't like much, especially not for night scenes. So I went back another night with Portra 400,  Never mind the composition, or the flare. It's a little underexposed compared to what I wanted. Same methods as before. Different lens. I realize now that, a) Since there was no fog, the illumination was going to be less even, so I should have adjusted my exposure time estimation. I would have been okay with blowing the lights out somewhat to get more detail at ground level. I'll really have to wait until the fog comes back to get the shot that I want, though. b) To achieve that, I should have been adding ... ~1.5 stops on top of my estimated exposure time of ~30sec. @ f/16 ... I think. Anyway, I figure that if I get a sensitive light meter, I can use it to get an accurate incident reading from a scene like this and then use the widely-circulated reciprocity curve chart for Portra 400 to add the correct amount of compensation. SMERSH Mouth fucked around with this message at 05:58 on Feb 17, 2017 |
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Feb 17, 2017 05:09
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SMERSH Mouth posted:I was looking at a Luna Pro that took PX mercury cell batteries (or adapted LR44s) and had a CDS cell meter. I guess then SBCs are newer? And they're pretty cheap, actually. hmmm From what I read, the CDS ones are fine but they have a "memory" in that they can take a while to adjust between different EVs, which can be frustrating when you are trying to average two light sources. The SBC stands for silicon blue cell and I guess it's way more responsive.
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Feb 17, 2017 06:16
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SMERSH Mouth posted:Anyway, I figure that if I get a sensitive light meter, I can use it to get an accurate incident reading from a scene like this and then use the widely-circulated reciprocity curve chart for Portra 400 to add the correct amount of compensation. Seems like your metering is fine already, just practice more
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Feb 17, 2017 08:40
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Helen Highwater posted:Fwiw I don't find that a camera on a sling strap bounces around too much either, but if you want to attach a camera to a backpack strap then the thing you are looking for is a Peak Design capture clip. I absolutely love the capture clip. It's perfect when hiking and doesn't particularly feel unbalanced at all. I used it every day for 16 days up to 8 hours a day when I was in the himalayas last october, so it really does work. I wouldn't go without it now.
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Feb 17, 2017 15:03
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Aphex- posted:I absolutely love the capture clip. It's perfect when hiking and doesn't particularly feel unbalanced at all. I used it every day for 16 days up to 8 hours a day when I was in the himalayas last october, so it really does work. I wouldn't go without it now. You think even with a 70-200 2.8 it would feel ok?
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Feb 17, 2017 17:16
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Ha, that might be pushing it. I used it with my 6d with a 24-105L but yeah, longer lenses like that it might not be too good.
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Feb 17, 2017 17:47
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Also SMERSH mouth if you're doing moonlit landscapes you don't really need to meter them anyways. I have a slide rule app I use on my phone (Expositor, but it's old) that basically has the same information in it. There's only so many stops once you start losing artificial light that you really shouldn't have to use esoteric meters
bellows lugosi fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Feb 17, 2017 |
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Feb 17, 2017 18:50
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Aphex- posted:Ha, that might be pushing it. I used it with my 6d with a 24-105L but yeah, longer lenses like that it might not be too good. Hmm that might be good enough. I have the same kit and the 24-105 is pretty good lens to have at the ready. I just mainly want to have my camera readily available instead of having to stop and pull it out every time I want to shoot.
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Feb 18, 2017 03:55
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windex posted:DSLR / big mirrorless: https://www.peakdesign.com/
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Feb 20, 2017 06:21
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jackpot posted:That's really, really nice looking. It's hard to tell from pictures, does the strap really lock on tight to the clips? It looks like gravity holds them on as much as anything, but surely they're meant to be bounced around a lot.
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Feb 20, 2017 06:23
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I live dead center in the perfect viewing band for the total solar eclipse this summer, so thought I'd try my hand and photographing it. I've got a Nikon D7k and will probably rent or borrow a decent telephoto, but I'm not sure what to get for a solar filter. I've got a Lee filter holder and Big Stopper 10 stop ND filter, but I don't think that will be quite enough. Any suggestions?
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Feb 20, 2017 17:47
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I've been googling the same topic, and see a range of responses. But I have seen several people posting that a 10 ND filter is "sufficient" to photograph the sun. Actual solar filters are equivalent to a 14 ND filter. What you can do to test it out is mount the filter on your lens, put a piece of paper on the ground, and point the lens at the sun. Look at the image of the sun on the paper to get a feel for the quality of the image. Atmospheric conditions and time of day influence the intensity of the light so I do think there's some wiggle room to deal with. I came across this info the other day and haven't actually tried it out yet, but it's definitely on the list.
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Feb 20, 2017 18:21
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xzzy posted:I've been googling the same topic, and see a range of responses. But I have seen several people posting that a 10 ND filter is "sufficient" to photograph the sun. Actual solar filters are equivalent to a 14 ND filter. That's a great idea, I'll give that a try. Of course after a week of beautiful sunny weather, it decided to be all overcast today. I suppose with the holder I've got, if the 10stop filter isn't enough I could add a second, smaller ND filter to it. Edit: I just got in touch with http://thousandoaksoptical.com/solar.html and they are going to make me a 100mm x 100mm glass filter Enos Cabell fucked around with this message at 20:38 on Feb 20, 2017 |
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Feb 20, 2017 18:36
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1 year Lightroom+Photoshop is under $100 today if anyone's looking to keep sucking the Adobe teat like me. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00O66FYRS
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Feb 21, 2017 22:35
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Back on the solar eclipse topic: as babbled about at length in the general questions thread, standard ND filters will probably melt either your eyes or your camera. Either it's not enough filter and your telephoto focuses the sun into a laser beam that melts your mirror, or it doesn't block IR and it melts things anyways. What I did find was this product that gets pretty much universal glowing reviews: http://astrosolar.com/en/products/whitelight/bdsf-baader-digital-solar-filter-od-3-8-for-high-end-telescopes/ Which is NOT safe for eyeball viewing but will protect the camera. They make a stronger version (OD 5) that is safe for eyes but this version supposedly is better for picture taking. The main issue is the company does not ship to the US, and their US vendor doesn't actually sell it. I had to order mine from a reseller in Germany. Given the vagaries of international shipping, this does mean if you wait do make a last minute order it might not actually show up in time. Amazon does list a number of products like this but many of the listings looked pretty sketchy due to not fully specifying the product they're selling.
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Feb 23, 2017 21:50
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What's a good but won't bankrupt me 70-200 2.8 for Nikon? Mounting it to a d750. Sigma 70-20 2.8 that's out there for 1250 decent? mAlfunkti0n fucked around with this message at 02:47 on Feb 24, 2017 |
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Feb 24, 2017 02:36
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There's always the Nikon 80-200 2.8. Two ring seems to be fairly affordable, and there was an ancient push-pull version before. I haven't used Nikon in quite a while but I seem to remember them being fairly well regarded.
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Feb 24, 2017 03:18
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Didn't Tamron just come out with a new version of their 70-200 2.8 also?
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Feb 24, 2017 03:36
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powderific posted:Didn't Tamron just come out with a new version of their 70-200 2.8 also? Seems about 2 years ago. Picked one up.
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Feb 24, 2017 05:32
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Ooooor like two weeks ago: https://m.dpreview.com/news/9035761523/tamron-announces-70-200mm-f2-8-and-10-24mm-f3-5-4-5-updates
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Feb 24, 2017 05:39
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