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Cacafuego posted:It's been a while since I was thinking about a new car, but I thought that the consensus was to lease luxury German cars due to expensive repair/maintenance costs after the warranty expires. Am I incorrect? If so, we'll purchase. If the numbers work better than for a lease and you're really sure about mileage and amount of time you want it by all means go for it. But if purchase numbers look better in your particular situation (your credit rating/what interest rate you can get, how much you can put down, current incentives) then just buy the thing and sell it/trade it in before the warranty is up. There is really little chance you'll be anymore stuck with a car you purchased than leased. Some things to consider: - if you purchase you can decide to get out WHENEVER YOU WANT as opposed to exactly at the end of the lease term. - Anything that would make the car difficult to sell (you trash it, etc) is going to be charged back to you at a lease turn in anyway. - If you drive fewer miles than your lease agreement you still pay the same. If you owned the car and this happened you could potentially sell it for more because of the lower mileage. Leasing is a great tool to use when you need to turn capex into opex. This is something that can have tax advantages for a business. I don't see many situations where it helps an individual.
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# ? Feb 21, 2017 23:14 |
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# ? May 8, 2024 21:54 |
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2017 Ford Escape 2WD Ecoboost review: it's OK. Got about 28mpg with 3 people + gear/food up to WV. The torque steer is kinda scary even when you're expecting it because it feels incredibly light in the rear when loaded up. Steering starts heavy and then gets progressively lighter which feels weird. Auto start/stop owns. Entertainment system is OKish; no UTF-8/16 support so lololol. The car is simultaneously bigger than it seems but way smaller than you'd expect.
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# ? Feb 22, 2017 01:20 |
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Buying a car in the next 5 months. Used. Will be moving within the next year ish from southern Oregon to LA and or Washington/Portland. Budget is 10-15k. I want a car that's mostly hassle free, Great gas mileage, white or silver that will last me till I can afford a tesla, hybrid Lexus, or Apple car. I'm thinking Prius? Currently driving manual 93 corolla with 2012k on it.
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# ? Feb 22, 2017 01:38 |
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LionArcher posted:Buying a car in the next 5 months. Used. Will be moving within the next year ish from southern Oregon to LA and or Washington/Portland. Budget is 10-15k. I want a car that's mostly hassle free, Great gas mileage, white or silver that will last me till I can afford a tesla, hybrid Lexus, or Apple car. I'm thinking Prius? Currently driving manual 93 corolla with 2012k on it. Buy the prius. Also, as oregon has no sales tax, see how long you need to own a car before you have to pay the sales tax in CA.
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# ? Feb 22, 2017 04:11 |
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Motronic posted:If the numbers work better than for a lease and you're really sure about mileage and amount of time you want it by all means go for it. But if purchase numbers look better in your particular situation (your credit rating/what interest rate you can get, how much you can put down, current incentives) then just buy the thing and sell it/trade it in before the warranty is up. There is really little chance you'll be anymore stuck with a car you purchased than leased. Thanks for the info, this and the previous posts help a lot
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# ? Feb 22, 2017 04:15 |
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LionArcher posted:Buying a car in the next 5 months. Used. Will be moving within the next year ish from southern Oregon to LA and or Washington/Portland. Budget is 10-15k. I want a car that's mostly hassle free, Great gas mileage, white or silver that will last me till I can afford a tesla, hybrid Lexus, or Apple car. I'm thinking Prius? Currently driving manual 93 corolla with 2012k on it. If there's nothing obviously wrong with the Corolla just keep driving it.
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# ? Feb 22, 2017 04:50 |
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My parents are trying to get rid of one of their cars since they don't need 2. I still have my trusty 2003 Corolla that is low mileage and needs some suspension work. I was just planning on driving it into the ground because I don't really car about what kind of car, but they keep asking me. They want me to buy either their 2010 Rav4 V6 or 2014 Prius V both with hilariously low mileage. I prefer the Rav4 because I'm a giant and tired of shoehorning myself into tiny cars. I can afford both no problem, and it'd help my folks out.
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# ? Feb 22, 2017 15:24 |
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Do you drive enough that the difference in mileage will be a factor?
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# ? Feb 22, 2017 15:30 |
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prom candy posted:Do you drive enough that the difference in mileage will be a factor? Nope! I live 10 minutes from work. Also both cars have super low miles because my parents basically drive around town and a few times a year drive a couple hundred miles to see me. Both cars basically look like they're on the dealer's lot. Gumbel2Gumbel fucked around with this message at 15:38 on Feb 22, 2017 |
# ? Feb 22, 2017 15:36 |
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Gumbel2Gumbel posted:My parents are trying to get rid of one of their cars since they don't need 2. I still have my trusty 2003 Corolla that is low mileage and needs some suspension work. I was just planning on driving it into the ground because I don't really car about what kind of car, but they keep asking me. So take the Rav4 and enjoy yourself. Some college kid would appreciate your Corolla. You're not obligated to drive into the ground just because you planned to.
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# ? Feb 22, 2017 15:41 |
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Deteriorata posted:So take the Rav4 and enjoy yourself. Some college kid would appreciate your Corolla. That's a great idea. I've had the car for 11 years so that probably comes pretty drat close to driving it into the ground and I would be getting out of it before maintenance starts to become a thing.
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# ? Feb 22, 2017 15:47 |
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Gumbel2Gumbel posted:That's a great idea. I've had the car for 11 years so that probably comes pretty drat close to driving it into the ground and I would be getting out of it before maintenance starts to become a thing. If maintenance hasn't been a thing on this car you need to get rid of it now.
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# ? Feb 22, 2017 17:47 |
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Motronic posted:If maintenance hasn't been a thing on this car you need to get rid of it now. Nah I took care of it, it's just that nothing big has needed to be replaced.
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# ? Feb 22, 2017 18:29 |
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Throatwarbler posted:If there's nothing obviously wrong with the Corolla just keep driving it. There isn't, but I don't want an old car in LA or Portland, and I don't want a manual car in stop and go traffic.
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# ? Feb 22, 2017 20:56 |
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I'm doing a lot of work on my house, and I've done the "rent a pickup for the hour/day" thing and it sucks. I want one of my own, but I can't determine if a fully depreciated beater is worth the maintenance effort/insurance vs selling my car and getting a merely used but reasonable truck. I don't really want a huge V8 truck, but heavily used F150's are so cheap - like same price range as worse off small Toyota/Ranger/etc. I'm figuring an additional vehicle would be a few hundred more per year in insurance/registration. Whereas, buying a decent used truck would avoid that cost, be nicer, but I'd have to use it as my daily, and face additional depreciation (though probably not any different than what my current car is facing.) Then again the beater is still worth the same price in a couple years from now. Any advice/suggestions? Price Range Beater - $2000-4000 Used - $10000-$14000 Option C - trailer hitch/trailer Option D (correct option) - El Camino
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# ? Feb 22, 2017 21:19 |
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LionArcher posted:There isn't, but I don't want an old car in LA or Portland, and I don't want a manual car in stop and go traffic. Besides the manual aspect, what's wrong with an old car in LA or Portland?
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# ? Feb 22, 2017 22:33 |
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Michael Scott posted:Besides the manual aspect, what's wrong with an old car in LA or Portland? Yeah, if you were to keep your old car, you'd be able to live the dream of the 90's in Portland . . .
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# ? Feb 22, 2017 23:02 |
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Posting for a buddy. Really simple. Proposed Budget: $4000. Less is more. New or Used: Used How will you be using the car?: Once-in-a-while grocery vehicle. Driver lives in a metropolitan area and usually walks to work. What aspects are most important to you? Mechanical reliability, easier upkeep. More MPG is obviously better but as this is not a daily driver it isn't strictly important. No trucks.
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# ? Feb 23, 2017 01:17 |
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Do you guys have things like Car2Go in your area? Because if so, that and the occasional rental car.
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# ? Feb 23, 2017 01:19 |
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nicest Ford Crown Vic / Mercury Grand Marquis you can buy in your price range Upsides are: parts are everywhere, it's reliable, it's very simple, everyone will drive the speed limit around you, it's huge Downsides are: finding a good one that's not beat to poo poo, atrocious fuel economy, everyone will drive the speed limit around you, it's huge
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# ? Feb 23, 2017 01:23 |
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I'll let him know to look into Car2Go and that car. Should've remembered the Crown Vic. Thanks.
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# ? Feb 23, 2017 01:37 |
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Zipcar is also pretty good for out-and-back short duration trips
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# ? Feb 23, 2017 14:15 |
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Long post coming, tldr at the end. After doing a bunch of reading and test driving some cars, I've narrowed my car search to two options. I'm debating between leasing a new (2017) GTI, or buying a used 2013 WRX. I have ~$15k in cash to spend at the moment. Here are some details: The GTI is, obviously, brand new. I'm thinking I'd like to pay off the whole lease as one payment, which comes out to just under $10k. This option lets me bank $4k, and have no monthly payment. On top of that the car comes with a warranty. Annual cost comes to roughly $3,333. It has a much nicer interior, sound system, and overall features than the WRX. However, its FWD which I'm not crazy about--I live in VT, and I've gotten by with FWD before but I definitely prefer the peace of mind of AWD. It's also not as fun to drive as the WRX. The WRX has about 53k miles on it. Clean carfax, one owner. Total out the door price will be around $20k. I'd put about $15k down and finance the rest, giving me a $150 monthly payment for 36 months. The car comes with no warranty, and is nearing the end of its manufacturer's warranties, so I'm budgeting $3,500 in repairs in the next 5 years (I know this is probably high, but better safe than sorry). So, my total cost would be ~$23,500, and resale will likely be about $10k in 5 years. Therefor, my annual cost over 5 years will be somewhere in the neighborhood of $2,700, likely less. The WRX is not nearly as nice inside as the GTI, but it offers greater performance, is much more fun to drive, and has AWD. Tldr: as far as the cars go: GTI has a warranty, more features, and is much nicer on the inside. WRX is more fun, definitely more of a drivers car, and has AWD. Financially, I'm confused which way I'm better off. Although the lease is more expensive, I get to keep $5,000 in the bank, AND have no monthly payment. However, at the end of 36 months I have nothing (except for the money I've saved up in the meantime, of course). On the other hand, the WRX is much more expensive up front, and I'll be saddled with a monthly payment. However, I can get a good 5 years of use out of the car and still sell it for $10k when I'm done. What do you guys think? What would you do in my shoes? martinlutherbling fucked around with this message at 14:39 on Feb 23, 2017 |
# ? Feb 23, 2017 14:19 |
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FogHelmut posted:I'm doing a lot of work on my house, and I've done the "rent a pickup for the hour/day" thing and it sucks. I want one of my own, but I can't determine if a fully depreciated beater is worth the maintenance effort/insurance vs selling my car and getting a merely used but reasonable truck. I don't really want a huge V8 truck, but heavily used F150's are so cheap - like same price range as worse off small Toyota/Ranger/etc. Go beater. Public liability insurance is cheap on old vehicles if your driving record is good*, and hauling crap in a 'nice' truck sucks rear end because you worry about every little ding and dirt spot on the upholstery. Plus, for 3-4K$, you can get a fairly decent older truck that might look a little ragged, but mechanically is sound. IMO, old Fords age better than old GM's - the interiors fall apart faster in GM's and they had more trouble when they went to water-based paint. Both are pretty reliable, just watch out for autotranny issues 'cause they're expensive to fix. If you get a screamin' deal on a 3/4 ton, go with it, they ride a bit rougher but have heavier-duty running gear. Otherwise, a half-ton should do what you want to do. *it is in my state, other states are weird about insurance.
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# ? Feb 23, 2017 14:37 |
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Holy poo poo do not pay a lease off in one payment. This is the worst idea. Pay nothing down and just put that money into an account and pay each month. You can make money on your money, why would you give it away? You're also setting yourself up for a real bad time when someone totals your car and you're out several grand because the car depreciated, since, you know, its brand new.
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# ? Feb 23, 2017 14:39 |
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Also with the plethora of good fast cars on the market these days who the hell buys a 5 year old WRX.
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# ? Feb 23, 2017 14:40 |
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paying off a lease in one payment is amazing for the lessor so definitely do NOT do that Also how is a loving four year old WRX with 50,000 miles $20,000??? you can buy a brand spanking new WRX for like $26,000 these days
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# ? Feb 23, 2017 14:47 |
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If it's a hatch they are holding their value extremely well right now because Subaru isn't making WRX hatches these days. Otherwise, yeah, I was thinking the same thing. A base model isn't that far off new. Maybe it isn't a base model? They can get up to 30k with opinions. Another thing to keep in mind is that a used WRX is one of those cars you have to be careful with, because people tend to mod or drive the hell out of them.
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# ? Feb 23, 2017 14:58 |
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Regarding the lease, fair enough. If I go that route I'll go with $0 down and pay out of an account. Out of curiosity, why is that so good for the lessor? I've never bought or leased a new car, that's why I'm here. As for the WRX, yep, that's what they're going for. That 20k is the all in price, including fees, registration, and sales tax. Price before that is $18,600 which is the lowest price within 250-300 miles. The resale is crazy in the northeast. It is a base mode, but again, that's what they go for. Subie dealers up here won't budge below $27k. 3 year lease on one of those is something like $12.5, which is doable but I don't want a sedan. Also, I would absolutely take it to my Subaru-nerd mechanic before purchasing. martinlutherbling fucked around with this message at 15:02 on Feb 23, 2017 |
# ? Feb 23, 2017 14:58 |
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Google tells me if anything happens to the car like getting totaled or stolen most or all of the lease payments are non-refundable, even if you paid off "future" payments. Also your financial situation could change where you need $3k for an emergency which you could replenish in the future but need right now.
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# ? Feb 23, 2017 15:04 |
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Gotcha. That makes a lot of sense, particularly if my total cost at the end is the same anyway.
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# ? Feb 23, 2017 15:52 |
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The most straightforward reason to not pay early is because you could be earning 1% interest at Ally / Capital One. On $3000 over 2 years, that's about $40 of free money. With a bit of thought, you can find ways of making 5-8% -- $200 to $320.
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# ? Feb 23, 2017 15:56 |
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Ok, so the salesperson used some tricky rear end language the other day. Total cost of the GTI lease is $14,760, not $10,000. Not such an attractive option for me at $4900/yr.
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# ? Feb 23, 2017 15:57 |
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It's almost like he knew your 15k budget and made the numbers match exactly that.
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# ? Feb 23, 2017 17:35 |
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martinlutherbling posted:Regarding the lease, fair enough. If I go that route I'll go with $0 down and pay out of an account. Out of curiosity, why is that so good for the lessor? Unlike a loan you do not save any interest or gain any benefit from paying your lessor early. You are literally prepaying them interest they would otherwise have to earn from you.
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# ? Feb 23, 2017 18:26 |
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:It's almost like he knew your 15k budget and made the numbers match exactly that. Yeah, don't tell salespeople how much money you have. Figure out what you can afford and how much the cars you're interested in should cost and then go look at those cars. Don't tell the dealer how much you can spend.
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# ? Feb 23, 2017 19:20 |
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I play Texas Hold Em with my cards face up on the table and I never seem to win. Please advise.
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# ? Feb 23, 2017 20:48 |
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time value of money is important also guy who lives in vermont, have you considered that migrating your search from a tiny rear end car market that pays a huge premium for subarus in general and the WRX in particular to a potentially larger, less crunchy market would serve you effectively?
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# ? Feb 24, 2017 01:09 |
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Proposed Budget: 5-10k CAD, but flexible New or Used: Used Body Style: Hatchback/sedan How will you be using the car?: Short drives to work, mainly. What aspects are most important to you? Reliability, small size, good sight lines. I'm 6'2". The starter car I bought a few years ago (98 Sable) is starting to need frequent repairs, and really, I beat the poo poo out of it since it was my first car. I've started looking locally and I'm thinking a small hatchback like a Honda Fit or Toyota Yaris would be good for me. Gas mileage isn't a huge deal, I dont go camping and I rarely have more than myself in the car.
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# ? Feb 24, 2017 01:58 |
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# ? May 8, 2024 21:54 |
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:nicest Ford Crown Vic / Mercury Grand Marquis you can buy in your price range And the shiny and chrome smile from opening up the V8 is worth the price of admission.
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# ? Feb 24, 2017 02:46 |