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Does anyone know what is up with Credit Karma's scores? I had a hard inquiry drop off my report and my average age of credit increased by one month. That is the complete list of changes in the last week, but my Transunion Score dropped 74 points and my Experian dropped 56 points in one week. I don't want to actually use my free credit report for the year to double check. Is there some sort of crazy issue with Credit Karma or something I am overlooking here that would cause this? Leon Trotsky 2012 fucked around with this message at 16:20 on Feb 17, 2017 |
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Feb 17, 2017 16:16
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Leon Trotsky 2012 posted:Does anyone know what is up with Credit Karma's scores? Technically you get three per year so if you are worried about your credit score because of the mortgage you are applying for in a few weeks you should use one.
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Feb 17, 2017 19:14
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I'm applying for new jobs because things are bad at my current employer. In this line of work it's typical to give 30 days notice as opposed to the typical 2 weeks, but my employer has a reputation of firing people after they put their notice in. They also have a reputation of refusing to pay remaining paychecks or PTO disbursement. What is the situation with PTO upon leaving a position? I believe it is something that employers are responsible to pay when you resign, but what if you put your notice in then are fired. Are they still required to pay you out? I sent an email to the Department of Labor so I have something to show them to say "Um, you need to pay me this when I leave, here's a letter proving it." But if they refuse to pay who do I complain to? Also what is the timescale, by when do they have to pay it out?
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Feb 18, 2017 14:37
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This is going to be state dependent. Where are you?
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Feb 18, 2017 14:41
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Colorado
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Feb 18, 2017 15:03
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I'm currently wondering if I should up my emergency fund or not. I currently have €6,000 in a separate account which is 4 months of living expenses (€ 1,500). And about another month of living expenses budgeted in various saving categories for non-necessary stuff that could be switched over if push comes to shove, e.g. savings for vacations, electronics and the like. Being single, renting, without debt and living in Germany, the main scenario for tapping into my emergency fund would be losing my job. In a worst case scenario that'd mean I'd have to go without a regular income for 3 months before the uninsurance safety net kicks and pays me enough to cover my monthly expenses for 9 months. The more probably scenarios would include about a 3 months notice before losing the job and up to 12 months of unemployment payments. Medical emergencies would financially be covered by the mandatory health insurance and generally would not result in losing my job. Medical emergencies that on their own could result in me losing my job would be of such severity that realistically I could not be able to live on my own for the rest of my life, or at least a veryprolonged amount of time, anymore. The latter are probably not feasible to take into consideration for an emergency fund and would need to be handled by appropriate insurances. So I think 4 months of living expenses should be enough, but I have the naggling doubt in my mind that I missed something. Also a little voice that says a €10,000 emergency fund would be a much nicer number.
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Feb 20, 2017 20:10
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Randler posted:I'm currently wondering if I should up my emergency fund or not. I currently have €6,000 in a separate account which is 4 months of living expenses (€ 1,500). And about another month of living expenses budgeted in various saving categories for non-necessary stuff that could be switched over if push comes to shove, e.g. savings for vacations, electronics and the like. Do what helps you sleep at night, so long as it's reasonable. A 6 month emergency fund is on the high end of a typical fund, but if that's what keeps you from worrying, go for it. You should be fine with 6,000 though.
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Feb 20, 2017 20:14
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Yeah, if a 10k emergncy fund feels better, do it. I mean, you probably won't need all of it all at once, but if you do need to use some of it, it will feel good to have some in reserve.
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Feb 20, 2017 20:40
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What's happening to that money if you aren't padding your emergency fund? I'd recommend padding your fund in favor of spending it on ice cream or beer, but if you are otherwise investing or spending wisely, less so.
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Feb 20, 2017 21:05
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Napoleon Bonaparty posted:I already have their current value. It's in a program on my computer. The problem is that I don't need to spend them all, and I want to know which ones will be the best to cash in, given their different interest rates and ages. The program I'm using can only project their value out to may of this year. They fully mature by 2024-2027. I was wondering what information I'd need to figure out which ones to cash out, and which ones to save without actually throwing out their serial numbers on the internet. Did you ever find an answer to your question? I'm in almost the exact same situation as you, and knowing what my bonds are going to be worth in the future would be useful.
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Feb 20, 2017 22:00
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literally this big posted:Did you ever find an answer to your question? I'm in almost the exact same situation as you, and knowing what my bonds are going to be worth in the future would be useful. Just calculate out the compound interest based on the compounding rate: https://www.treasurydirect.gov/indiv/research/indepth/ebonds/res_e_bonds_eeratesandterms_increaseinvalue.htm
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Feb 20, 2017 22:04
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Thanks for the feedback guys.  Ashcans posted:What's happening to that money if you aren't padding your emergency fund? I'd recommend padding your fund in favor of spending it on ice cream or beer, but if you are otherwise investing or spending wisely, less so. The money earmarked for this is either going to the emergency fund, which is on a separate money market account, or goes to my investment stuff. Spending is not schedulded in this regard.  (This is also part of the reason I wanted a second opinion on the emergency fund, because I also feel bad about having too much money just lying around without doing anything.)
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Feb 20, 2017 22:20
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Randler posted:Thanks for the feedback guys. Emergency funds are about security and stability, which, after a certain amount are personal. I think 6000 is adequate for you, but if you'd feel more secure with 10000, I'd say go for it. Maybe increase it slowly, and put the excess to investments?
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Feb 20, 2017 23:08
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Randler posted:Thanks for the feedback guys. How much do you already have in your non-retirement investment account? The reason I ask is that I treat mine as a backup tier of emergency savings. In fact, when faced with an unexpected expense, I look at my resources in the following order: -Can I put this expense on a credit card, pay it off in full in the ~4-6 weeks when it's due, and temporarily cut my spending to make up the difference? -If not, can I cover this expense out of the extra cash I keep in my checking account? -If not, can I cover this expense out of the extra cash I keep in my 1% savings account? -If not, can I cover this expense out of my taxable brokerage account? Fortunately I've never had to get past tier 3 (dipping into the savings account), and even then that was fairly painless. I suppose further steps would be "ask for help from family", "withdraw Roth IRA contributions", "cut retirement contributions to increase cashflow", "sell things", etc. Basically what I'm driving at is that you should view your emergency fund as one part of a larger system of resources with which you can respond to sudden financial shocks. This helps me worry less about e.g. what is the precise number I should have in my emergency savings account.
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Feb 21, 2017 04:32
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Macaroni Surprise posted:I'm applying for new jobs because things are bad at my current employer. In this line of work it's typical to give 30 days notice as opposed to the typical 2 weeks, but my employer has a reputation of firing people after they put their notice in. They also have a reputation of refusing to pay remaining paychecks or PTO disbursement. Assuming you know for sure the firings have really happened and are not basing this on just a nebulous reputation, the proper response here is to not give notice. Tell them the day before you quit that tomorrow will be your last day. When they throw a hissy fit about the lack of notice, you can tell them point-blank that if they fire people who give advanced notice, they should expect their employees to stop giving advanced notice. If you really want to drive home the point, schedule a vacation that consumes all of your PTO, then call in to say you won't be coming back.
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Feb 23, 2017 17:57
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SlapActionJackson posted:If you really want to drive home the point, schedule a vacation that consumes all of your PTO, then call in to say you won't be coming back. If you already have your next job and your current workplace is toxic (for reasons you've described) this is how to play it. Advanced notice is a courtesy they clearly don't deserve.
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Feb 23, 2017 18:07
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I worked for a few years at a place that had a reputation for firing people who put in their notice. I said gently caress it, I'll do the right thing and see what happens. I put in my notice 3 weeks early, and worked without any issues at all. I don't know if it was all just rumors or the people it happened to were just lovely employees that they weren't interested in having back or what, but that was my experience in that situation.
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Feb 23, 2017 18:55
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I'm converting all my documents to digital this weekend, but for stuff I'm keeping (Social Security card/loan documents/passport/etc.) I want to get a cheap fire safe. Any recommendations?
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Feb 24, 2017 06:26
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PMI question: Setup: We have been aggressively paying down our house (about 3x the required) to get rid of PMI payments. The principle is now ~79% of the original loan value, so we sent a request to have PMI canceled. The lender (4th owner of the loan in 2 years) sent a reply that we need to pay $700 to have our house appraised to make sure it doesn't loose value. This would wipe out over a year of the savings we would get from not having PMI anymore. Question: Does everyone have to pay to get their house apprised to get of PMI or is this because we requested it at soon as we hit 79? Would PMI automatically go away sometime before 1 year from now on its own?
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Feb 28, 2017 00:26
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Xenoborg posted:PMI question: I don't know the answer to your question, but you might try asking in the House-Buying Thread as well. I've been following it as a possible future buyer, and they discuss and advise on PMI and appraisal issues all the time over there. I'm on mobile so I can't promise this link will work right: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3131399 Sorry if you already asked in that thread. I'm way behind on it.
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Feb 28, 2017 00:44
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Thanks I'll repost there.
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Feb 28, 2017 00:46
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Xenoborg posted:Question: Any actual laws aside, why would the lender not require an appraisal? Seems like a no brainer for them to require it if allowed by law.
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Feb 28, 2017 00:50
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Xenoborg posted:Question: PMI typically goes away automatically once you drop to 78% of what you paid for the place when you got the loan. To get rid of it sooner (i.e. if you think you gained the 20% equity through appreciation) then you'd have to jump through the appraisal hoop with your loan servicer.
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Feb 28, 2017 02:21
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$700 is a lot for an appraisal. Ask your lender what happens if you pay to 78%, in some instances they have to cancel PMI at that point. Appraisals can be very hit or miss and you have zero recourse if the result is unfavorable.
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Feb 28, 2017 02:45
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El Duodenum posted:PMI typically goes away automatically once you drop to 78% of what you paid for the place when you got the loan. To get rid of it sooner (i.e. if you think you gained the 20% equity through appreciation) then you'd have to jump through the appraisal hoop with your loan servicer.
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Feb 28, 2017 03:06
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I have a car that does not run that will get me like 1200 dollars in salvage. It's a manual 2010 Mazda 3. Shops say it'll take hours and hours of work to diagnose because of where the suspected failure is. Strangers on the internet are telling me that I should fix it myself, but I have never done more than regular maintenance on a car. I'm sitting here with the opportunity to possibly make money if I invest in the car and sell it after I repair it myself, but I also would need to buy tools etc.. Alternatively I could just sell it as is. Not sure what the smart move is.
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Feb 28, 2017 15:26
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signalnoise posted:I have a car that does not run that will get me like 1200 dollars in salvage. It's a manual 2010 Mazda 3. Shops say it'll take hours and hours of work to diagnose because of where the suspected failure is. Strangers on the internet are telling me that I should fix it myself, but I have never done more than regular maintenance on a car. I'm sitting here with the opportunity to possibly make money if I invest in the car and sell it after I repair it myself, but I also would need to buy tools etc.. Alternatively I could just sell it as is. This will give you an idea of what is wrong - looks like that model had lots of problems: http://www.carcomplaints.com/Mazda/MAZDA3/2010/ Have you had the free recall work done? Looks like there was an electrical problem that they issued a recall for in 2009: http://www.carcomplaints.com/Mazda/MAZDA3/2010/recalls/
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Feb 28, 2017 15:54
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EugeneJ posted:This will give you an idea of what is wrong - looks like that model had lots of problems: Never had recall work done, but I got it in 2012 so maaaaaybe it'd been done? I'm really just not sure if I should invest time into the car and money into tools and parts to learn about cars, or if I should take a grand in salvage and say gently caress it to the opportunity. Like, if I make the problem worse I've lost time AND money.
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Feb 28, 2017 16:34
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signalnoise posted:Never had recall work done, but I got it in 2012 so maaaaaybe it'd been done? I'm really just not sure if I should invest time into the car and money into tools and parts to learn about cars, or if I should take a grand in salvage and say gently caress it to the opportunity. Like, if I make the problem worse I've lost time AND money. Enter your VIN number here to check it: https://www.mazdausa.com/owners/recalls
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Feb 28, 2017 16:52
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Household take home pay right now is 60k (92.5k gross). We're putting 10% plus 6% matching from employer into a pre-tax 401k right now. We have the option of putting it into a Roth 401k instead. Which is better and can you explain why? We live in Illinois which has a flat 3.75% income tax rate and are in our early 30s.
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Mar 1, 2017 05:15
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LLSix posted:Household take home pay right now is 60k (92.5k gross). We're putting 10% plus 6% matching from employer into a pre-tax 401k right now. We have the option of putting it into a Roth 401k instead. Which is better and can you explain why? We live in Illinois which has a flat 3.75% income tax rate and are in our early 30s. At 92.5k gross as a married couple, you are completely in the 15% federal tax bracket. At that rate I would use a Roth 401k / Roth IRA instead of a traditional. Once you make over $105k or so, I would switch back to a traditional contribution because then you would be getting a 25% federal tax deduction on the contribution. Obviously this all changes once immigrants from Mexico pay for everything and our tax rates are all 0%.
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Mar 1, 2017 05:27
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LLSix posted:Household take home pay right now is 60k (92.5k gross). We're putting 10% plus 6% matching from employer into a pre-tax 401k right now. We have the option of putting it into a Roth 401k instead. Which is better and can you explain why? We live in Illinois which has a flat 3.75% income tax rate and are in our early 30s. Bear in mind the state government is toying with permanently raising state income tax to 5.25% and making it retroactive to January 1st.
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Mar 1, 2017 14:44
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signalnoise posted:I'm sitting here with the opportunity to possibly make money if I invest in the car and sell it after I repair it myself, but I also would need to buy tools etc.. Alternatively I could just sell it as is. Do you have sufficient free time, a place to work on the car, and a desire to learn how to do it? If the answer to all three is yes, then do it.
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Mar 1, 2017 15:25
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Edit: moved to the long term retirement savings thread.
Handsome Ralph fucked around with this message at 02:50 on Mar 2, 2017 |
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Mar 2, 2017 01:53
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I need some advice please cos I have no idea what I'm doing or talking about. I'd like to start getting into investing, I'm in the UK and have about £10k sitting around doing bugger all earning 1% interest in a current account. I earn about £1600 net a month, I have £850 outgoings. I've started looking in a few places but ETFs and funds and brokers and gently caress. I've found a interesting company called Nutmeg that offer a managed investment account for min £100 a month contribution and a fee of 0.75%, I don't really know how they rate in the list of similar products. I'd like to start an account like that, and since I have a little bit of capital I'd also like to try investing directly. If I'm honest, I barely understand the difference between the two. Where should I start? Is this a stupid idea? Can I realistically teach myself enough to make a success of this? By success I don't mean I expect to become a millionaire, I just would like to turn my money into a bit more money.
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Mar 7, 2017 22:14
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Droo posted:At 92.5k gross as a married couple, you are completely in the 15% federal tax bracket. At that rate I would use a Roth 401k / Roth IRA instead of a traditional. Don't you have to start phasing out IRA deductions if your MFJ and making $98k+, or am I reading this wrong? https://www.irs.gov/retirement-plan...nt-plan-at-work
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Mar 7, 2017 22:36
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brugroffil posted:Don't you have to start phasing out IRA deductions if your MFJ and making $98k+, or am I reading this wrong? The original question was about a 401k, not an IRA.
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Mar 7, 2017 22:41
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Droo said "At that rate I would use a Roth 401k / Roth IRA instead of a traditional. "
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Mar 7, 2017 22:44
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I"m helping my brother get his finances in order, and he's got a ton of student loans.pre:Description Type Origin Date Origin Amt Status Curr Balance Int p/y Nelnet A Stafford Unsub Multiple $3,821.32 REPAYMENT $6,083.22 6.8000% Nelnet B Direct Sub 10/27/2010 $1,168.00 REPAYMENT $1,329.85 4.5000% Nelnet C Direct Unsub 10/27/2010 $2,082.00 REPAYMENT $3,050.26 6.8000% Nelnet D Stafford Sub Multiple $448.00 REPAYMENT $531.38 6.0000% Nelnet E Stafford Unsub Multiple $5,052.00 REPAYMENT $8,117.63 6.8000% Nelnet F Direct Unsub 2/14/2012 $3,250.00 REPAYMENT $4,433.07 6.8000% Navient 32 Direct Unsub 3/2/2009 $11,000.00 DEFERMENT $28,643.57 13.3750% Navient 40 Direct Unsub 4/1/2009 $4,547.00 DEFERMENT $11,577.82 13.3750% Any suggestions for what we might be able to do to get these under control without having thousands of dollars immediately available? e: I should mentioned that the Navient ones are in deferment, but have a ton of missed/late payments. The Nelnet ones aren't deferred, but also have a ton of late/missed payments. Dragyn fucked around with this message at 23:10 on Mar 7, 2017 |
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Mar 7, 2017 22:53
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brugroffil posted:Droo said "At that rate I would use a Roth 401k / Roth IRA instead of a traditional. " That table only applies if you don't have access to a 401k already. The limits are different if you don't have access to a 401k. The guy was specifically asking about a 401k, and I mainly included the "/ Roth IRA" part because I don't think all 401k plans offer a roth option. Obviously if he makes less than 105k he can legally max out a Roth IRA, which is the potential scenario that would occur for the person asking the question.
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Mar 7, 2017 23:01
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