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Just buy a takeoff from someone off golfmk7.com
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# ? Feb 22, 2017 21:50 |
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# ? Jun 12, 2024 21:52 |
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tijag posted:
The diamond cut wheels that came on mine stayed on the car for all of 100 miles and are now in a box. I should get around to selling them.
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# ? Feb 22, 2017 21:51 |
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fknlo posted:
Same thing happened to me. Barely touched a loving curb. Wheels were on the car less than 1000 miles before the winters went on. Can't remember if I posted about it in this thread, but my GTI was involved in an incident about 7 weeks ago while I was in Colorado. 6 weeks in the shop and a repair bill totaling just over $17k left me with an estimate of "over $2000" to fix the lovely repairs that were done by the original shop. I'm thinking it's gonna be more in the $3-5k range. My $40k+ GTI is awesome!
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# ? Feb 22, 2017 22:40 |
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I know it's like the cheapest most basic VW but I've been driving around Tenerife (Spain) in a rental Polo TSI the last couple of days and it's actually a pretty decent little ride, even after 50,000km of rental miles on it. The steering and handling is pretty good, the 5-speed gearbox and clutch shift pretty nicely, and the interior is simple but well thought out. The only downside is the poor little motor is positively gutless below about 2-2.5k rpm. As in even if you're coasting slowly at 15kmh you can't get back on the power in 2nd; you have to downshift to first or else you just bog and go nowhere. But as an American used to a lot more power as standard, it is fun quite literally flooring it all the time on these narrow twisty mountainous roads.
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# ? Feb 22, 2017 23:26 |
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Guinness posted:I know it's like the cheapest most basic VW but I've been driving around Tenerife (Spain) in a rental Polo TSI the last couple of days and it's actually a pretty decent little ride, even after 50,000km of rental miles on it. The steering and handling is pretty good, the 5-speed gearbox and clutch shift pretty nicely, and the interior is simple but well thought out. Aside from the cheese and wine the best thing about visiting France was driving the piss out of that poor little Ford Ka.
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# ? Feb 23, 2017 00:41 |
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veedubfreak posted:The diamond cut wheels that came on mine stayed on the car for all of 100 miles and are now in a box. I should get around to selling them. Post some pics
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# ? Feb 23, 2017 02:16 |
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fknlo posted:Same thing happened to me. Barely touched a loving curb. Wheels were on the car less than 1000 miles before the winters went on. Haha, holy poo poo, you didnt say it was over 17k in the other thread. My final repair bill came out to only 13k in repairs, and another 1000 in rental. I don't feel as bad now about mine. At least yours is a lease and you'll be able to turn it in 2 years from now, where as I was planning to keep mine 10 years and i only have 6800 miles at nearly 2 years. click for yuge
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# ? Feb 23, 2017 07:42 |
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What's the name of the style?
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# ? Feb 23, 2017 14:10 |
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:What's the name of the style? Cadiz, 19x8 et 48.
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# ? Feb 24, 2017 01:33 |
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Speaking of which.. I need to get rid of my 18x7.5 Cadiz's with no curbage. Just put on some PF01's with new rubber.
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# ? Feb 24, 2017 01:56 |
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I've been looking into getting a used A4 for the AWD Ive test driven one of the B5 (02-05) models with the 3.0L v6, came away pretty impressed with the car overall. Engine had nice respnsiveness and I liked the 6speed . Ive been looking into the B7 models (2005.5-2007) models as well, mainly the 2.0t version, haven't driven one yet but from what iv'e read the engine is great in terms of power/torque/fuel economy and not down on much power compared to the older 3.0v6 Any reason to get one over the other? The b7 model would end up being a little more expensive, I like the way they both look, i'm pretty good mechanically and know that the timing belt is usually the biggest maintenance item for either car.
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# ? Feb 24, 2017 07:45 |
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Question for you auto-inclined folk.. Bought a used VW Jetta with a 2.8 V6, Circa 2001.. actually it was more a "here, take this" then an actual buy, so I had figured that whatever money i'd need to put into it would be worth it.. somehow. Fast forward 2 months and i'm still finding components that won't operate/work correctly to pass smog. I recently replaced my battery, and am finally clear of my "check engine" light issues, but i'm worried that I may have a lemon on my hands.. Is it worth investing more into this? Or should I get it bare minimum to pass smog and try and turn a profit?
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# ? Feb 24, 2017 18:00 |
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theAcidQueen posted:Question for you auto-inclined folk.. It's a 16 year old Jetta, of course it's a lemon. The VR6 is a good motor and takes to a turbo really well. But I honestly wouldn't throw money at a 16 year old VW. Especially not an MKV, the ugliest model ever.
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# ? Feb 24, 2017 21:18 |
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And I believe that 2001 is right in the range where most everything VW was plagued with neverending electrical gremlins (as you're finding out). Hard pass.
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# ? Feb 24, 2017 23:53 |
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Isn't a 2001 a mk4? Either way, money pit.
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# ? Feb 25, 2017 01:00 |
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:Isn't a 2001 a mk4? Either way, money pit. Right it is. Sorry. The window regulators were trash. Lots of electrical issues too.
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# ? Feb 25, 2017 01:28 |
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Has anyone had experience with the 2.0t's timing chain tensioner failing? I'm hearing mixed reports on how trashed the engine will be - I know there will be some bent valves, but I'm hearing reports of metal going all over the engine making the bottom end unusable.
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# ? Feb 25, 2017 01:35 |
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RIP Paul Walker posted:Has anyone had experience with the 2.0t's timing chain tensioner failing? I'm hearing mixed reports on how trashed the engine will be - I know there will be some bent valves, but I'm hearing reports of metal going all over the engine making the bottom end unusable. I've read into it since I blew up my engine for different reasons (red lining with low oil). Seems like some motors just have top end damage and others can have bottom end damage as well. Only way to tell is to open up the motor. If you have a CBTA engine and it's just the top end that's hosed up I have my old motor sitting in a storage unit I could part with on the cheap.
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# ? Feb 25, 2017 01:45 |
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Drunk Pledge Driver posted:I've read into it since I blew up my engine for different reasons (red lining with low oil). Seems like some motors just have top end damage and others can have bottom end damage as well. Only way to tell is to open up the motor. If you have a CBTA engine and it's just the top end that's hosed up I have my old motor sitting in a storage unit I could part with on the cheap. I think it's a CAEB (it is a 2009 A4 Avant). I've read the same thing, and was hoping that it could be determined by something less than yanking the head off. I would prefer not to yank the head if the engine is trashed, but I guess it doesn't matter all that much. Any idea what the bottom end damage is? The internet has been shockingly not that useful with actual details, just "dealer/shop said new engine after I paid $1500 to have it torn down". It could also be that my forum-fu is lacking and the details are posted and I'm not finding them.
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# ? Feb 25, 2017 01:53 |
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9 times out of 10 if you lose the timing chain/belt/gear on an interference engine, its cheaper to just get a new engine. Bottom end damage means the crank/cam/bearings in the "bottom" end of the car will need to be rebuilt.
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# ? Feb 25, 2017 02:12 |
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Tear the engine down and build the poo poo out of it.
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# ? Feb 25, 2017 07:33 |
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DSG transmission fluid question. How sensitive is this stuff actually to thermal expansion? I know the official bottom fill replacement measures the fluid at around 100f. I let my car cool for about 90 minutes before draining the fluid and about 5.5 liters came out. Only 4.5 is typical according to the internet. The fluid wasn't hot enough to burn through nitrile gloves so I think it was around 100 give or take a bunch. I was going to put five liters back in (because that's all I had) but fumbled about a quarter of a liter into the engine bay like a dope. But I'm thinking I might have had it over full since so much oil came out? Any advice? TLDR: I drained 5.5L put 4.75 in. Problem? PabloBOOM fucked around with this message at 23:57 on Feb 25, 2017 |
# ? Feb 25, 2017 23:55 |
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Big rear end rock hit my front windshield. Any ideas how to fix it aside from replacing the whole thing?
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# ? Feb 26, 2017 06:13 |
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obi_ant posted:Big rear end rock hit my front windshield. Any ideas how to fix it aside from replacing the whole thing? Insurance covers windshields in many states. I had mine done in Massachusetts for free on two vehicles. I think my current insurance has a $100 deductible for it though? Also you would need to let us know how much damage it there is. A crack under a certain size can be filled with a kit to at least not spread over time but sometimes extreme temperatures will cause cracks to get larger anyway.
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# ? Feb 26, 2017 06:17 |
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PabloBOOM posted:DSG transmission fluid question. How sensitive is this stuff actually to thermal expansion? I know the official bottom fill replacement measures the fluid at around 100f. I let my car cool for about 90 minutes before draining the fluid and about 5.5 liters came out. Only 4.5 is typical according to the internet. The fluid wasn't hot enough to burn through nitrile gloves so I think it was around 100 give or take a bunch. Its hard to say. I think you would have wanted to measure only much was drained after pulling the second plug (plastic tube one). Whatever drains after pulling the first plug but before the second isn't actually being used by the dsg, it's just overflow.
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# ? Feb 26, 2017 18:38 |
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Drunk Pledge Driver posted:Its hard to say. I think you would have wanted to measure only much was drained after pulling the second plug (plastic tube one). Whatever drains after pulling the first plug but before the second isn't actually being used by the dsg, it's just overflow. Thanks. I'm thinking it was way overfilled. Between 1 and 2 L came out before I pulled the plastic one. Even with some fluid expansion, that seems to be a heckuva lot. And for curiosity, I checked the volume of the old fluid at around the ambient 55f this morning and it was virtually identical to when I drained it hot yesterday, soooo
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# ? Feb 26, 2017 18:51 |
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veedubfreak posted:9 times out of 10 if you lose the timing chain/belt/gear on an interference engine, its cheaper to just get a new engine. A new engine for this car is pretty expensive - if it's just the head, that + labor is still less than a used engine (not counting any labor). veedubfreak posted:Bottom end damage means the crank/cam/bearings in the "bottom" end of the car will need to be rebuilt. I don't even know how to respond to someone trying to school me on what a bottom end is, and then getting it wrong.
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# ? Feb 26, 2017 21:30 |
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RIP Paul Walker posted:A new engine for this car is pretty expensive - if it's just the head, that + labor is still less than a used engine (not counting any labor). Sorry I misread the question, not even sure how cam worked its way in there. I blame the decades of pushrod engines with the cam inside the block. And the alcohol..
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# ? Feb 26, 2017 21:54 |
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Aw poo poo, one of the dealerships near me has an Alltrack SE with a manual in stock. I didn't realize they were finally shipping them, they still aren't listed on the vw.com configurator. Unfortunately it's in white, so I'd still want to special order one... but it might be time to go see if I want one. And how much they are willing to play ball on price.
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# ? Feb 27, 2017 23:01 |
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Guinness posted:Aw poo poo, one of the dealerships near me has an Alltrack SE with a manual in stock. I didn't realize they were finally shipping them, they still aren't listed on the vw.com configurator. Alltrack's have just as much money on the hood as everything else. A friend in Denver got $4-5k off on hers.
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# ? Feb 28, 2017 00:11 |
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fknlo posted:Alltrack's have just as much money on the hood as everything else. A friend in Denver got $4-5k off on hers. That would seriously change the math... thanks for the info. Is there anywhere that I can find some data showing this to be the case? Things like Edmunds and TrueCar seem like garbage these days when it comes to new car pricing and show drat near MSRP as a "good" price.
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# ? Feb 28, 2017 00:35 |
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Been looking at a 2008 Passat wolfsburg at a local dealership, but researching the car has me wondering about upkeep costs and reliability. I know it has a 2.0t, I don't know if it's FSI or TSI as of yet. From what I've gathered online, the FSI is a mess with a timing belt instead of a chain and a fuel pump and cam follower that are prone to fail. I've also been reading that you must use high performance gas and oil, and that they frequently burn oil, regardless of which engine there is. How true are these things/how worried should I be about them?
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# ? Feb 28, 2017 15:56 |
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Guinness posted:That would seriously change the math... thanks for the info. Is there anywhere that I can find some data showing this to be the case? Things like Edmunds and TrueCar seem like garbage these days when it comes to new car pricing and show drat near MSRP as a "good" price. Pop on Autotrader, do a nationwide search for what you want. Lowest price is probably pretty close to what you can shoot for. Keep in mind some places don't include freight and dealer processing fees, which could be something like $1.5k. Sheehy has Alltrak SE (this isn't a trim on Autotrader so just search for Golf, wagon, AWD) for 25,012 from an MSRP of 30,570. They don't include freight or dealer fee but gives you an idea. Literally Lewis Hamilton fucked around with this message at 16:14 on Feb 28, 2017 |
# ? Feb 28, 2017 16:09 |
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Oldsrocket_27 posted:Been looking at a 2008 Passat wolfsburg at a local dealership, but researching the car has me wondering about upkeep costs and reliability. I know it has a 2.0t, I don't know if it's FSI or TSI as of yet. From what I've gathered online, the FSI is a mess with a timing belt instead of a chain and a fuel pump and cam follower that are prone to fail. I've also been reading that you must use high performance gas and oil, and that they frequently burn oil, regardless of which engine there is. How true are these things/how worried should I be about them? I'd consider the FSI far less desirable than the TSI for the reasons you mentioned. They do need premium, but I haven't heard of either being particularly bad at burning oil. Anecdotally, my 09 tsi engine only needs about a 1.5qt over the PabloBOOM fucked around with this message at 19:42 on Feb 28, 2017 |
# ? Feb 28, 2017 18:37 |
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PabloBOOM posted:Anecdotally, my 09 tsi engine only needs about a 1.5qt over the 1000 mile oil change interval. I hope you meant 10,000 mile interval... As a prospective VW buyer coming from a BMW I'm certainly used to some oil consumption, but 1.5qt/1000 miles is ridiculous.
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# ? Feb 28, 2017 18:56 |
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Derp. Yeah, I meant 10,000. Edit:. And also to clarify further, my engine is over 120,000 miles, so some oil is going to get eaten anyhow by this point. Love the TSI. PabloBOOM fucked around with this message at 19:45 on Feb 28, 2017 |
# ? Feb 28, 2017 19:18 |
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Oldsrocket_27 posted:Been looking at a 2008 Passat wolfsburg at a local dealership, but researching the car has me wondering about upkeep costs and reliability. I know it has a 2.0t, I don't know if it's FSI or TSI as of yet. From what I've gathered online, the FSI is a mess with a timing belt instead of a chain and a fuel pump and cam follower that are prone to fail. I've also been reading that you must use high performance gas and oil, and that they frequently burn oil, regardless of which engine there is. How true are these things/how worried should I be about them? See my posts above about the timing chain cars. loving VW keeps outdoing themselves WRT dumb and expensive issues.
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# ? Feb 28, 2017 20:22 |
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I don't remember the exact number but don't be surprised if the owner's manual for a TSI 2.0T says burning 1 quart of oil every 1200 miles or so is acceptable.
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# ? Feb 28, 2017 23:13 |
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Thanks for the replies everyone. I'm looking at this car as a daily driver for my very very short (5-10 min depending on weather) commute and the occasional road trip so I don't plan to drive it hard, but the last owner was a college student, so at 89,XXX miles I'd bet it's had some rough treatment in the past. I'll take a look at what engine it has if I go back in, and ask about the cam follower/timing chain tensioner as is appropriate, and if preventative maintenance hasn't been done/the dealership isn't willing to work with me on it, I'll probably pass.
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# ? Mar 1, 2017 16:44 |
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# ? Jun 12, 2024 21:52 |
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Oldsrocket_27 posted:Thanks for the replies everyone. I'm looking at this car as a daily driver for my very very short (5-10 min depending on weather) commute and the occasional road trip so I don't plan to drive it hard, but the last owner was a college student, so at 89,XXX miles I'd bet it's had some rough treatment in the past. I'll take a look at what engine it has if I go back in, and ask about the cam follower/timing chain tensioner as is appropriate, and if preventative maintenance hasn't been done/the dealership isn't willing to work with me on it, I'll probably pass. You may want to consider something with the 2.5l i5 engine. Seems it's more reliable and I've seen many rabbits for cheap. Not sure if that translates to Passat prices though or if the passage had said engine.
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# ? Mar 1, 2017 18:05 |