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I finished a thing! 
crime fighting hog fucked around with this message at 16:22 on Feb 27, 2017 |
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Feb 27, 2017 15:02
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Zuul the Cat posted:Black Rims. Nailed it. I'm not sold on the "you have to chip the hell out of everything" as some of the other guys are. Your stuff looks good as-is. While I do like chipping effects when done correctly, people severely overestimate the amount of weather damage that occurs to a modern armored vehicle. To be frank, the paint will probably outlast the effective combat life of the vehicle. Obviously, 40K isn't real, so you can go freaking crazy, if you choose to. Just don't feel like you have to. berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 15:34 on Feb 27, 2017 |
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Feb 27, 2017 15:22
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berzerkmonkey posted:Nailed it. At the same time, ignoring aesthetic reasons, a crazy cyborg cult that turns itself into robosquid abominations would probably be more concerned with keeping the vehicle running than keeping the paint pristine You're right in general though. Even with the most basic of maintenance, matte military paint would cost nothing to reapply.
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Feb 27, 2017 15:41
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My reason for it, or at least 30k Heresy stuff, is hosed supply lines, stranding on planets for months, long campaigns with little support, etc.
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Feb 27, 2017 15:46
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Pierzak posted:They look like colored proxy bases with minis added as an afterthought. Kinda hard to appreciate the paintjob when the rims pop more than the mini. It does make them stand out on tables* and make it super clear who's on who's team, though. And for some games it also indicates arcs. *still mourning the game I lost because two stands of strelk had blended into a forest and we missed them for long enough the platoon had fled from "casualties" by the time we realised.
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Feb 27, 2017 15:48
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Stuff on the last page that seriously owns: I liked the sepia tone in-universe picture, but I appreciate actually getting a look at these guys. Loads of personality, and the basing unifies them nicely. Ghazk posted:Hydra Dominatus Way, way better. It brings the focus back to the model, which looks lovely.
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Feb 27, 2017 16:41
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berzerkmonkey posted:Nailed it. Thanks for all the replies, everyone. i'm planning on adding some cogs and rock outcroppings to the bigger bases (if i can figure out how to paint a dusty red rock). I'm going to skip the battle damage. I like the clean look.
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Feb 27, 2017 17:23
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How did you get the cracked/dried mud effect on those bases? SOOO good.
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Feb 27, 2017 18:41
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Looks like Citadel Ironearth with a drybrush if not mistaken.
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Feb 27, 2017 18:47
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Unzip and Attack posted:How did you get the cracked/dried mud effect on those bases? SOOO good. I basecoat the base with Mephiston Red, then apply Martian Ironcrust pretty thickly. A wash of P3 Red Ink over that, let it dry, then drybrush is Balor Brown.
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Feb 27, 2017 19:33
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Welp this is going to take a while... and that's barely half the infantry :v
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Feb 27, 2017 19:55
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spectralent posted:*still mourning the game I lost because two stands of strelk had blended into a forest and we missed them for long enough the platoon had fled from "casualties" by the time we realised. 
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Feb 27, 2017 23:09
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Tried getting some criticism on my latest troll endeavor from the PP forums, but they weren't all that helpful.   First try with NMM. I think it's too similar to the skin color, but not sure what do to to shift it. Maybe use more greys than blues? I've since painted his pants a dark brown which I think go well with the rest of the leather. Also not sure where to go with chin and arm grows. Red like the studio, or a more natural black/greys? The weapon and shield will eventually be purple or green gemstones. Help me, goons.
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Feb 28, 2017 00:13
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Alokgen posted:Tried getting some criticism on my latest troll endeavor from the PP forums, but they weren't all that helpful. First off how dare you have such good skin tone without telling us how you did it. Real talk though, I think shifting the armor to more greys would do well to differentiate it from the skin. Maybe a straight-up black or black-grey in the recesses along the edge, with a very thin highlight of pure white (or really light grey) along the raised edges. Especially down the middle, I think a bit of white would do wonders. Depending on how clean or dirty you want it to look, some dark rusty brown around the rivets (or turquoise) might help break it up in places. As it is I think that it's going really well and that it'll all come together as you continue on.
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Feb 28, 2017 00:44
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I'm definitely going to try something different tonight. I saw some examples of using a TMM for the midtone and highlights and then using NMM greys and blacks for the shades. It makes sense that your shadows wouldn't be shiny. I might give that a try. For TMM, I normal just do a base, wash, then base and highlight, but always feel the results are pretty meh. I'm also not really looking to weather anything. I have all the AK enemal washes, but they're really time consuming to do properly.
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Feb 28, 2017 01:41
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Darth Vader with leather jacket and mask sketch, based on a tom of finland drawing. What's the best way to paint a shiny leather but to keep the sketch style? Or even just painting the shiny leather, but without the sketch. I haven't decided where to go with it yet. I know tom's style had distinctive gradients, but he made simpler black and white sketches too. And yeah I know I have to make the package bigger, along with an appropriately thick paddle or lightsaber. 
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Feb 28, 2017 16:31
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What the gently caress my man.
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Feb 28, 2017 16:34
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Your ships make me want to play Xwang.
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Feb 28, 2017 16:37
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Yeah, I haven't painted freehand in a while so I know it's rough. I wanted a fun project because ships with female pinups continues to be a thing and I wanted something neat that will hopefully generate salt. The other side will likely be a stormtrooper bottom. e: Would NMM-like dark greys be appropriate? I'll probably have to paint it like the traditional TOF airbrushed look since I can't imagine a stormtrooper showing booty would look good without a pair of carefully blended cheeks. Chill la Chill fucked around with this message at 16:52 on Feb 28, 2017 |
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Feb 28, 2017 16:38
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No no, technically its fine and I see the style you're going for and it reads well. I am confused by the concept and even more so by "make the package bigger".
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Feb 28, 2017 17:27
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ijyt posted:and even more so by "make the package bigger".
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Feb 28, 2017 17:34
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The bigger package makes more sense than anything.
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Feb 28, 2017 17:35
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I'm going for a wizard van style with this compared to the racecar.
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Feb 28, 2017 17:37
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ijyt posted:No no, technically its fine and I see the style you're going for and it reads well. Tom of Finland was a famous gay bar artist, all his men had exaggerated packages no matter what pants they were wearing Chill La Chill is a painter that puts silly things on spaceships to make them more human/natural, like a drag racer with tribal patterns or a bomber with shark teeth
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Feb 28, 2017 17:39
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Ok explaining Tom makes this make so much more sense.
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Feb 28, 2017 17:53
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Welp. 'Tom of Finland' is now in my google dossier.
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Feb 28, 2017 18:40
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dexefiend posted:Welp. 'Tom of Finland' is now in my google dossier. You're welcome.
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Feb 28, 2017 18:46
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Chill la Chill posted:Darth Vader with leather jacket and mask sketch, based on a tom of finland drawing. This is extremely my poo poo.
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Feb 28, 2017 20:54
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Any recommendations for brush on gloss varnish?
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Feb 28, 2017 23:39
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The Vallejo stuff is good, both matte and gloss.
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Mar 1, 2017 00:21
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Alokgen posted:Any recommendations for brush on gloss varnish? I use liquitex gloss medium and varnish, thinned with a little water it goes on smooth, just don't let it pool.
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Mar 1, 2017 00:21
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I use liquitex gloss and dullcote for matte afterwards. Re: spraying liquitex through airbrush: what PSI and should I bother? If it's too much trouble I'll just keep brushing it on.
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Mar 1, 2017 04:43
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This is more a question for Neurolimal, since he's a self-proclaimed Master shill and also a filthy pleb who I can't PM, so this is gonna poo poo up the thread instead of inboxes. I found this airbrush and compressor kit on Amazon, and it definitely looks like what I'd need to do what I want to do. To be honest, I just want to hear something along the lines of "it's not total poo poo" before dropping $80 on it. I mean, the reviews are mostly positive, with a lot of the lower ones seeming to be a bunch of windowlickers who can't into airbrushes. The fact there's more than a couple of low reviews, though, worries me more than a little bit. I know I'm not getting super top-of-the-line equipment here, and I'm fine with that, but I just want to make sure I'm not getting something that'll break on me the first couple of times I use it through no fault of my own. Also, if I do pull the trigger, so to speak, what's the best primer to use? Should I just stick with the Krylon rattlecans and use the airbrush for actual painting, or is there a primer that will actually do what's supposed to do through an airbrush? Not only that, but I also found a supplier of Vallejo Model Air in my area (literally the only place in the 5 counties near me that does,  ). Does that stuff need to be thinned any more out of the bottle, or should it be good to just drop right into the cup and go?
Aniodia fucked around with this message at 04:57 on Mar 1, 2017 |
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Mar 1, 2017 04:55
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Chill la Chill posted:I use liquitex gloss and dullcote for matte afterwards. Re: spraying liquitex through airbrush: what PSI and should I bother? If it's too much trouble I'll just keep brushing it on. I use 25 PSI with the biggest needle on my Talon. Works fine.
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Mar 1, 2017 05:11
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I have the spacehulk genestealers and want to try a trick to speeding up painting. Basically I want to paint the majority black with very subtle edge highlighting to simulate darkness with flashlight style areas very brightly lit. My painting is pretty good but not exceptional. A: do y'all think that would work? B: I don't like the traditional pink for stealers, does anyone know of a good sickly looking pale style for stealers I can ape? I want high contrast.
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Mar 1, 2017 05:13
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You could try prime black -> zenith spray with white from direction of light -> wash/ green (or whatever color you want the flashlight to be).
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Mar 1, 2017 05:17
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Aniodia posted:This is more a question for Neurolimal, since he's a self-proclaimed Master shill and also a filthy pleb who I can't PM, so this is gonna poo poo up the thread instead of inboxes. I found this airbrush and compressor kit on Amazon, and it definitely looks like what I'd need to do what I want to do. To be honest, I just want to hear something along the lines of "it's not total poo poo" before dropping $80 on it. That's the one I bought; if I were to be critical of it I'd say the chamber where the paint is poured into can be annoying to 100% clean, but nothing horrible you have cotton swabs. As I've mentioned before the build of the brush is SUPER simple which makes it fairly durable in its own right. I haven't had to return mine so I'd look into the reviews for their return policy. I've put lacquers, enamels, acrylics, and Future through it just fine. It wont be amazing for super finepoint details, but that has the benefit of a needle that wont bend if you look at it funny. My only warning is to thoroughly thin any Model Master paints you put through it; if the gunk gets in there it will be a nightmare to deep clean. The compressor itself is great and has lasted for quite a while, especially considering I've accidentally left it running overnight more than a fee times. The tank is small, but outside of vibrations (which you can mitigate with a carpet or just keeping it off the floor) it's not very loud. If you are unsure about the airbrush I believe you can buy them separately for slightly more; that way if the airbrush fails you can return it and just get another airbrush to go with the compressor. quote:Also, if I do pull the trigger, so to speak, what's the best primer to use? Should I just stick with the Krylon rattlecans and use the airbrush for actual painting, or is there a primer that will actually do what's supposed to do through an airbrush? Not only that, but I also found a supplier of Vallejo Model Air in my area (literally the only place in the 5 counties near me that does, I believe this thread has said good things about Stynlrez acrylic primer: https://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-SNR-410-Stynylrez-Polyurethane/dp/B00K3KGUME But keep in mind that enamel and lacquer paints will eat acrylic (if you're not planning on working on many vehicles you're unlikely to encounter either, though). Vallejo Model Air shouldn't need to be thinned, but if you need to then you will want to do so with Vallejo's thinner or a future-water mix. Don't thin with water alone with airbrushing, because that will cause significant pooling and sagging.
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Mar 1, 2017 05:18
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:You could try prime black -> zenith spray with white from direction of light -> wash/ green (or whatever color you want the flashlight to be). Nah I'm a tryhard. I'll do it by hand.
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Mar 1, 2017 05:23
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So it's about as idiot-proof as you can get, gotcha. I don't plan on using much of Testor's anything, let alone paints, but appreciate the heads up. At best, it might get some P3 paint (properly thinned, ofc) through it, and that's probably the heaviest I'll go there. Good call on the separate airbrush, though, I'll look for it on Amazon and see what the return policy is if it shits the bed on me.quote:more I already have a Future/water mix, I think it was 1:5? Something like that, and it hasn't failed me yet with handbrushing stuff, so I don't think airbrushing will really give me too much more of a hassle. As mentioned above, I don't really plan on enamels or lacquers either.Thanks for the advice, though. Once my paycheck hits tomorrow, I'll put the order in.
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Mar 1, 2017 05:56
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Eifert Posting posted:Nah I'm a tryhard. I'll do it by hand. I'd still do a zenithal-style base coat, it's how I started this guy; Gravitas Shortfall posted:Been playing with OSL. My brushwork is messy as hell, but it turned out okay.
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Mar 1, 2017 06:03
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