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big crush on Chad OMG posted:1990. Recent. That article means that everyone driving that same year/make/model would pay a rate averaged across all colors. Your insurance company doesn't track the car color, or if they do, it isn't baked into the rating formula. Base rate would be the same for all. Individuals who have more claims pay more than those who don't. People driving black cars make more accident claims. Ergo, people driving black cars will tend to have higher rates than people who drive white cars of the same make/model/year. That's what "indirect" means. Or are you contending that individual driving record and claims history has no bearing on rates?
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Feb 28, 2017 03:35
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Memento posted:
Maybe in Aus, but for the poster asking in the US, it won't.
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Feb 28, 2017 03:56
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2003 VW Golf TDI Can a clogged fuel filter cause a sudden lack of power, or would the lack of power gradually develop?
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Feb 28, 2017 03:57
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DavidAlltheTime posted:2003 VW Golf TDI Either/or. Depends how much fuel is actually getting through.
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Feb 28, 2017 04:08
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Godholio posted:My first thought is that you borked the ignition switch. '01 Intrepid, continued: I picked up an ignition switch & cutoff relay. Too late to install them today. I chased down the specified Jones plug for the evap/fuel tank circuits under the back seat cushion (pass side) and found it...pristine. I gave the flat contacts a few light passes with a mini-file, just in case, & reassembled it. No joy. The whiny, buzzy sound that resembles the final death rattle of the Geico gecko seems to be originating from the vicinity of the underhood power center, which is located on the left front fender. Pulling every fuse & relay did nothing. I did get it to stop by pulling apart the fron-most of a pair of honkin' great black Jones plugs that run from the power center & possibly into the passenger compartment. It sits, de-energized, until I replace the key switch. If I in fact killed the ECU, I should be able to pick one up at a salvage yard. Aside from making sure it's from a 2.7 car - and figuring out where it is - is there anything else I need to know about it?
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Feb 28, 2017 04:41
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two_beer_bishes posted:Check your brake fluid, it's probably low. Motronic posted:You need brakes, or potentially you have a leak. Alright, thanks for the info.
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Feb 28, 2017 07:33
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FrankeeFrankFrank posted:and there was a fiance charge of $600... If you are trying to marry off your daughter, this is a decent price.
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Feb 28, 2017 15:44
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Godholio posted:Either/or. Depends how much fuel is actually getting through. The filter was very hard to blow air through. Trouble is, when I put the new filter on, suddenly I had a severe diesel leak from the seam between the injector pump and the pump head. How likely is a new o-ring on the pump head going to correct this issue?
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Feb 28, 2017 16:14
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DavidAlltheTime posted:The filter was very hard to blow air through. Trouble is, when I put the new filter on, suddenly I had a severe diesel leak from the seam between the injector pump and the pump head. Have you ever checked the intake to see if it's clogged? It's the most common reason for lack of power on these.
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Feb 28, 2017 22:14
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CharlieWhiskey posted:If you are trying to marry off your daughter, this is a decent price. haha she is pretty great... but buyer beware she comes with alot of hidden issues... just like the older model I'm still driving around...
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Feb 28, 2017 22:50
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shy boy from chess club posted:Have you ever checked the intake to see if it's clogged? It's the most common reason for lack of power on these. Do you mean the air intake? I have checked that, and also spent some time cleaning out the turbo with oven cleaner. I'm getting a quote to reseal the injector pump.
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Mar 1, 2017 01:02
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Is there any decent online market for stuff like grungy old but working/mostly working crap like carbs and emissions poo poo? There's some stuff on my 87 Mazda B2000 that's getting replaced with aftermarket parts this weekend and if I could make a few bucks selling the old poo poo to folks who rebuild that would be a great way to ease the hurt on my wallet. In that line since the carb is one of the things that is going how do I purge the fuel/vapors from the float bowl so it's safe to ship?
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Mar 1, 2017 01:25
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1) Ebay. 2) I've never even worried about it.
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Mar 1, 2017 01:27
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Thanks, I know it's a really dumb question but wanted to check before wasting a bunch of time.
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Mar 1, 2017 01:34
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Parts Kit posted:In that line since the carb is one of the things that is going how do I purge the fuel/vapors from the float bowl so it's safe to ship? Leave it in your bedroom for a couple of days before shipping. Then your room with smell of pure manliness.
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Mar 1, 2017 02:03
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well they sold the 2016 before we could get there... so now they offer this... http://www.germainhondaofbeavercreek.com/new/Honda/2017-Honda-Civic-27ed4ccc0a0e0ae77948e5c88583087a.htm for the same $20,000 flat after everything, taxes etc. so basically it is a 2017 LX for what they want for the 2016 LX-P... better deal worse deal? Id really like the LX-P trim, so in a 2017, could I get them to go for a $21,000 flat rate deal?
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Mar 1, 2017 02:49
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What's your tax rate for vehicle purchases?
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Mar 1, 2017 02:57
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FrankeeFrankFrank posted:well they sold the 2016 before we could get there... so now they offer this... What's the worst that happens if you try? Tell them you want that trim for that price, and if they say no then go home. They'll probably call you the next day to offer a better price on whichever model they have more wiggle room on. Or if they don't there's no shame in going back to reconsider.
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Mar 1, 2017 03:36
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PabloBOOM posted:What's the worst that happens if you try? Tell them you want that trim for that price, and if they say no then go home. They'll probably call you the next day to offer a better price on whichever model they have more wiggle room on. Or if they don't there's no shame in going back to reconsider. yea I figured I'd at least try... just didn't know if anyone had a guess on my odds, and if that was even a good deal.
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Mar 1, 2017 04:01
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96 Taurus 3l (blue) 143k miles (somehow.) As I asked the other week, I put new rotors on the back. I also replaced one of the calipers (the other caliper was replaced a month ago) and pads. The brakes are still making a dragging noise when braking. The internet told me to wait a week and it'd go away after they bed in, but it's still there (I don't really drive a lot though.) It does sometimes go away after driving a while. When pulling away after braking I can also hear the pad hitting the rotor.. ching ching chingchingchingching like the rotor's not 100% square to the pads on the passenger side. Yes, I checked that I somehow didn't tighten the lugnuts all the way (they were tight.) Also, one of the pistons (on the month old caliper, driver's side) was stuck today and was smoking when I got to my destination (it was fine when I drove home.) Fluid level is fine... is something jacked up in the lines somewhere or what? It was ran with low fluid for awhile because I'm an idiot until we fixed the leaking caliper last month. ABS still works, brakes were bled after replacing them last weekend. When changing the brakes we also noticed the sway bar links were broke on both sides, is that related? Thanks car bros/gals. Also I will note that my dad didn't believe you had to screw/push the pistons back in on the back brakes and put a lot of pressure on them trying to squeeze them in, could that have hosed them? (they didn't move until I explained the Hanes said you had to screw them.) I should probably take this car out and shoot it but I'd rather wait until the transmission blows up.
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Mar 1, 2017 05:20
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Mar 1, 2017 05:34
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What's the optimal time to use the "circulate air" feature for your car's heating and cooling?
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Mar 1, 2017 08:59
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Always. Until it gets stale, then flush the air and go again. It's much more efficient
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Mar 1, 2017 09:34
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Let outside air in if it’s closer to your desired temperature than the air that is currently in your car (mostly in the summer due to the greenhouse effect). Rolling the windows down helps, too, for obvious reasons. Otherwise, yeah, only turn off recirculation if you feel stuffy.
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Mar 1, 2017 09:46
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Platystemon posted:Let outside air in if it’s closer to your desired temperature than the air that is currently in your car (mostly in the summer due to the greenhouse effect). Rolling the windows down helps, too, for obvious reasons. Interesting...myy windows fog up in the winter time or when it's raining when I run it on recirculate
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Mar 1, 2017 14:02
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That's because you're pulling humidity in from the outside and letting it condense. It's also why the A/C is run for defrost; the cycle also dries the air.
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Mar 1, 2017 14:13
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A lot of the manuals I've run said not to run recirc unless in specific circumstances, like stuff outside you don't want to breathe in. People run recirc all of the time? Is it really that much more efficient?
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Mar 1, 2017 16:46
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More data on the issue of Prius gas tank bladders shrinking over time and in cold temps. I filled the tank on my 2008 for the second time last night, this time in "good" weather - the high was 72*F and I filled up around 8:30pm when it was 63*F. The tank was still about 40% full, but I had a 25 cent/gal discount that was expiring. Still worked out to about the 8.7 gal capacity of my first fill-up.
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Mar 1, 2017 17:27
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Michael Scott posted:A lot of the manuals I've run said not to run recirc unless in specific circumstances, like stuff outside you don't want to breathe in. People run recirc all of the time? Is it really that much more efficient? If you're in a humid and hot area, not running recirc can freeze your coils. In general, recirc will require less work to maintain the same cabin temperature, as it doesn't have to heat up hot outside air.
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Mar 1, 2017 17:29
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And in AC, it cools already cool air in the cabin, instead of hot summer air.
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Mar 1, 2017 19:20
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Are there any better alternatives to these things? I'm wiring up a trailer hitch and I've used them in the past but I'd much rather do it properly than cheaply.
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Mar 1, 2017 20:32
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If you guessed someone (not me) put a loving brake pad on backwards you win. Yes I should've noticed sooner--but I didn't know what "new brake noise" (barely anything) sounds like compared to "metal on metal grinding."
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Mar 1, 2017 20:34
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two_beer_bishes posted:Are there any better alternatives to these things? I'm wiring up a trailer hitch and I've used them in the past but I'd much rather do it properly than cheaply. A proper heat shrinked butt connector and a ratcheting crimper will make a much more secure connection. Just make sure to electrical tape, liquid or solid, when done to seal it against the elements. A lineman splice with solder amd heatshrink over it would also be acceptable.
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Mar 1, 2017 20:40
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Cop Porn Popper posted:A proper heat shrinked butt connector and a ratcheting crimper will make a much more secure connection. Just make sure to electrical tape, liquid or solid, when done to seal it against the elements. A lineman splice with solder amd heatshrink over it would also be acceptable. I have a shitload of heat shrink already, so I'll just get some butt connectors. Thanks!
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Mar 1, 2017 21:00
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PainterofCrap posted:Lord, I hope that this is a stupid question. Update: Replaced the ignition switch. No change. Replaaced the ASD relay. No change. Now, the engine won't accelerate past 4K RPM. At just before, it starts loping. I imagine that this would manifest as a bucking/significant loss of power if it was underway. I don't know if this is new; this is the first time I accelerated the engine above maybe 1800-RPM since I charged thebattery and all of this poo poo started. To recap: car starts and runs normally (except the 4K RPM thing). When I shut it off and remove the key: - It stays running, then stumbles & dies after about 15-seconds. - The check engine light is on (which indicated an evap issue in the fuel system before my OBDII reader died). - The oil light & a couple other warning lights stay on. The radio, turn signals, etc do not work once the ignition is switched off. There is something drawing current and a faint, medium-pitched buzzing that only stops when the battery is disconnected; it resumes once power is restored. I'm out of ideas. except replacing the ECU. I may just junk it at this point. e: the bouncing at 4000 RPM may be a rev limiter feature. Thanks, Chrysler! PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 23:32 on Mar 1, 2017 |
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Mar 1, 2017 21:19
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:And in AC, it cools already cool air in the cabin, instead of hot summer air. I understand that, but to my knowledge, the compressor will still run at nearly the same frequency. It's possible I don't understand car HVAC well enough. Obviously it's more efficient but the question is if it's more than nominal and worth breathing in stale goon air any reasonable amount of time.
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Mar 1, 2017 23:41
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Most modern cars have thermometers and will cycle as necessary. Obviously less if the air is already cold, I would think.
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Mar 2, 2017 01:09
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Can anyone tell me when to change the ATF on a 2010 Prius? The maintenance schedule says nothing.....
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Mar 2, 2017 01:24
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2017 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins So, I traded in my 2009 Tacoma which never had an engine problem for a shiny new 2017 Ram 2500 w/ the 6.7 L Cummins. Drove it all the way home, great ride, steering is nice, etc. etc. Turned it on this afternoon to leave the job and the check engine light is on after only 90 miles. The only things I've done with this truck: -Used the remote start feature -Filled the tank with diesel from a Speedway -Opened the hood to look around -Drove responsibly at under 60mph on country roads, including up two decent inclines I tried doing the "turn the key to the run position 3x" trick to try and get it to display an error code but I guess this doesn't work on this model year because I can't get it to show any such code. Any insights would be appreciated.
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Mar 2, 2017 02:06
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Take it to the dealer. Let them figure it out. It's under warranty.
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Mar 2, 2017 02:15
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