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Tree Dude posted:City folk who live in tall buildings are the only people I think that makes sense for. Haha, I was running down 5 flights of stairs with a Great Dane puppy for the first 4 weeks...which was fine at first, but they quickly hit 30+ lbs!! I think one of the keys for us, was having a diary where we noted down each toilet trip. It made it easy to time it and start increasing the gaps.
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Feb 16, 2017 22:40
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It's how to use puppy pads, personally I've always done the watching them like a hawk thing and then immediately taking them outside the moment they start wandering about no matter if its 3pm or 3am. It's by far the quickest way to train them, dogs naturally want to go outside and mark territory, they learn quick that they get fuss and treats as an added bonus.
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Feb 16, 2017 23:27
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I was really only planning on using the grass patch (if it worked, that's why I asked if anyone had experience with it) during the one longer period of time he'll have to be home alone while we're at work. It should never be longer than a 3 hour stretch, but I thought an option like that might help. But if he wouldn't even really recognize it as grass, I could see how it would mess up housebreaking overall.
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Feb 17, 2017 01:03
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I don't know how large your dog is but do you have a crate? I didn't like the idea of them until I got one for Lilly, and although she whines when she first goes in it she's perfectly happy once the front door shuts. Dogs don't go toilet where they sleep, you just got to immediately take him outside when you let him out of the crate and it will help rather than hinder. Amazon basics do reasonably priced crates, and they also have a version that you can put in the boot/trunk of your car.
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Feb 17, 2017 01:27
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Bird Law posted:I was really only planning on using the grass patch (if it worked, that's why I asked if anyone had experience with it) during the one longer period of time he'll have to be home alone while we're at work. It should never be longer than a 3 hour stretch, but I thought an option like that might help. But if he wouldn't even really recognize it as grass, I could see how it would mess up housebreaking overall. Play vigorously before leaving. Potty before leaving. Give a small amount of water. Dog will sleep. Training your dog to poo poo and piss inside, no matter what the device, will just have your dog piss and poo poo inside.
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Feb 17, 2017 01:40
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The people we're about to purchase a house from have two 9 week old Doberman-German Shepherd mix pups with a standing offer for us to have the female. The new place is far larger than my existing one, but is still a townhome. Would taking this pup be a mistake? If feels like it would be a mistake to me.
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Feb 17, 2017 21:17
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Warbird posted:The people we're about to purchase a house from have two 9 week old Doberman-German Shepherd mix pups with a standing offer for us to have the female. The new place is far larger than my existing one, but is still a townhome. Town house will be fine provided you have the time for the dog. Really energetic breeds, going to need a lot of walking so she does not chew your house to bits. Shedding will depend on which coat she gets - with GSD you are in for a lot of clean up work and brushing to avoid having a dog hair carpet. Does the house have a garden or a yard?
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Feb 17, 2017 22:18
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No garden, some yard as we are an end unit. Both of the pups have extremely thick shortish hair, so that will likely be an issue. We're good with Belle D'Beagle now, but I don't know if we should get this pup. I'm not even sure I want a dog that large.
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Feb 17, 2017 22:22
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Don't do it of your gut instinct is no. Two dogs are four times the work as one, and there will always be other pups. Once you are settled in your new place then you can decide but I would hold off on this one if it were me.
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Feb 17, 2017 22:26
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BTW, puppies don't have control of their bladders until they're four months old. Just be patient and give the puppy a treat/click/praise outside when he relieves himself, and take him out often. Don't scold the puppy, he'll just do it somewhere else when you're not watching. Be patient. It's a puppy.
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Feb 19, 2017 13:17
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Nostalgia4Dogges posted:wish my dog would stop eating cat poop Get the Clever Cat litter boxes, Booda dome litter boxes, AND put the cat litter behind doors the dog can't get through using a device such as this one (works for us, our dogs love cat poo poo): https://www.amazon.com/Peek-Boo-Keep-Kitty-Litter/dp/B00CXWS8UC For eating dog poop and other poop such as horse poop on hiking trails, i just reinforced a leave it cue, and the dog is on LEASH so you can actually keep them them from self reinforcing themselves with poop eating, and then i give a very high value treat for not eating the poop (i bake tuna fudge home made every week for this purpose usually, for all hikes and walks).
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Feb 21, 2017 07:31
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So I've recently got myself a lovable mutt who gets all the pats and all the attention a rescue dog could get, gets a walk before work most days and trips to the dog park 3 times a week How do i stop this lovable mutt from chewing up his bedding? He has no shortage of toys kongs with food or bones in the backyard yet this fucker thinks his nice soft bed for his kennel is the best thing ever to chew
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Feb 21, 2017 08:51
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The only bedding which has survived grandma's dogs are sleeping bags. I have no idea why but it could be worth a shot.
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Feb 21, 2017 08:55
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Scarecow posted:So I've recently got myself a lovable mutt who gets all the pats and all the attention a rescue dog could get, gets a walk before work most days and trips to the dog park 3 times a week You can also try a no-chew spray. Nature's Miracle makes one, there's also bitter apple/lime sprays out there. Very affordable and worth a shot.
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Feb 22, 2017 23:36
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   A few days into my new friendship with my own first puppy - Chomsky! He was born on New Years Eve and is a mixture of a maltese and pomeranian. I used the OP as a jumping off point for lots of research, so thanks MrFurious. It's been a busy six days but he already has some of the basics down like a little champ. Rarely any whining anymore when I am out of sight (and I never reward it), goes outside almost exclusively (unless I make him wait way too long out of his crate) and has taken to his crate at night and throughout the day when I can't supervise. I work close by so luckily just two or three hours at a time. Last night was the first night where he didn't cry after being placed in the crate for bedtime and I am already sleeping much better. Just waking up three hours after bedtime to take him out and experimenting with doing it again three hours later...so far he whines for a bit before going back to sleep the second time. Just moved him over to this "Taste of the wild" puppy food from the Cesar wet adult food packets he was eating. Having to soften them up a bit but he eats a good amount. Incredulous Dylan fucked around with this message at 18:30 on Mar 14, 2017 |
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Feb 23, 2017 02:49
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Hi dog thread! PI is participating in a cross-forum event organized by BFC mod pig slut lisa to determine the #1 forums top dog. There are a lot of good dogs in this thread so if anybody would like to participate the thread link is below (also stickied here in this sub but we are drowning in stickies at the moment) https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3811379
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Feb 26, 2017 18:00
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We just purchased a house and the the previous owners had a few dogs. I'm sure they've done a decent job cleaning, but I want to mop the hardwood with something to make sure that our pup will have as few excuses to go inside as possible. Anyone know of an enzymatic cleaner that can used when mopping?
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Feb 27, 2017 16:47
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^You should have no problem mopping with Nature's Miracle. You can get it in gallons at your local pet store.
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Mar 1, 2017 23:05
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There's a Nature's Miracle for Hardwood. I don't know if that would be better than the red jug for mopping though.
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Mar 2, 2017 01:43
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I've known several people with labradoodles who have always been fantastic. They've become my favorite dogs and we're thinking that we might want to get one in the next year or so. From reading the OP and looking for a "good" breeder, it seems like 2.5-3k is the going rate for a dog. Is this the ballpark we're looking at? Does anyone have any suggestions? Are the dogs I see on Hoobly locally for ~$700 going to be from puppy mills?
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Mar 4, 2017 05:52
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Residency Evil posted:I've known several people with labradoodles who have always been fantastic. They've become my favorite dogs and we're thinking that we might want to get one in the next year or so. From reading the OP and looking for a "good" breeder, it seems like 2.5-3k is the going rate for a dog. Is this the ballpark we're looking at? Does anyone have any suggestions? Are the dogs I see on Hoobly locally for ~$700 going to be from puppy mills? I really know nothing about this, but I am chiming in to add my sober thoughts, and 2.5k-3k for a labradoodle just seems...crazy to me, even if that's what they go for. I don't get it, unless you have allergies then, ok, even though not all are hypoallergenic.
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Mar 4, 2017 06:12
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Lmao $2000 for A Dog.
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Mar 4, 2017 06:15
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Honestly it's all down to the breeder, you could get a puppy mill charming 3k so they look legit, or you could have someone home breeding with perfect examples of each parent for 700. You need to be able to see both parents no matter what, a legit high end breeder may very well have a waiting list and give an intimidating interview before they put you on it, but that's often a tactic designed to put you off asking questions like "how old is the bitch and how many litters has she or will she have and at what frequency". Find out of there is a breeders association or club, they are run by obsessive people who refuse to put people on approved breeder lists unless they jump though hoops. I own something called a "chorkie" and once owned a Chinese crested powderpuff, so I'm in no position to judge the pet choices of others tbh.
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Mar 4, 2017 08:52
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Speaking of puppy mills, my grandad bred and trained border collies. The man was 5ft 2 in his socks and the only things I ever remember him saying were "Aye sally" "Nay love" and "come bye". He hears that one of the last dogs he bred is locked in a pig shed and being bred to death. Grandad says nothing, gets in his Land Rover, and drives for 8 hours across Australia. Calmly walks into their yard, belts the farmer across the face with his shotgun knocking him out cold, goes into the pig shed, picks up the dog and calmly walks back to his car and drives back home again.
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Mar 4, 2017 09:02
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Residency Evil posted:I've known several people with labradoodles who have always been fantastic. They've become my favorite dogs and we're thinking that we might want to get one in the next year or so. From reading the OP and looking for a "good" breeder, it seems like 2.5-3k is the going rate for a dog. Is this the ballpark we're looking at? Does anyone have any suggestions? Are the dogs I see on Hoobly locally for ~$700 going to be from puppy mills? Yes, a $700 dog is most likely going to be from a puppy mill. I would also stay away from sites like Hoobly. Look for local breeders, who have health tested parents that you can meet.
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Mar 4, 2017 09:51
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2.5-3k is pretty standard for labradoodles which just, lol you're paying that much for a mutt but okay. 700, as others have pointed out, is probably puppy mills and since doodles (and poodle mixes in general) are the hot designer mutt, puppy mills are common. See if there is a breed club in your city or one close by, chances are there are. See if they have any meet ups and if so, go to them and talk to owners about the breed, meet their dogs, and ask about local breeders that are good (I did that when I was looking to get a shiba puppy and almost everyone recommended the same breeder). As mentioned find one who does health testing, and not just "the parents get vet check ups and the vet says they're healthy!" Ideally they'll do offa(ofa.org) testing. Also, see if their dog has any titles in any dog sport. That's not a requirement at all but a dog with some agility, flyball, or some other sport titles (since the breed isn't recognized by the akc they can't do confirmation), it shows the breeder is actually doing something with their dogs instead of just throwing them together. Since both poodles and labs are very sporty breeds, I'd pass on a breeder who didn't participate in at least some sports
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Mar 4, 2017 16:30
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learnincurve posted:Honestly it's all down to the breeder, you could get a puppy mill charming 3k so they look legit, or you could have someone home breeding with perfect examples of each parent for 700. You need to be able to see both parents no matter what, a legit high end breeder may very well have a waiting list and give an intimidating interview before they put you on it, but that's often a tactic designed to put you off asking questions like "how old is the bitch and how many litters has she or will she have and at what frequency". Find out of there is a breeders association or club, they are run by obsessive people who refuse to put people on approved breeder lists unless they jump though hoops. ImplicitAssembler posted:Yes, a $700 dog is most likely going to be from a puppy mill. I would also stay away from sites like Hoobly. Psychobabble! posted:2.5-3k is pretty standard for labradoodles which just, lol you're paying that much for a mutt but okay. 700, as others have pointed out, is probably puppy mills and since doodles (and poodle mixes in general) are the hot designer mutt, puppy mills are common. Thanks for the posts guys. I don't consider paying for a labradoodle any more silly than paying for any other dog breed, but w/e. All of the breeders I've found have been through the websites of breeder's clubs/associations. I guess all of these are considered "high-end" breeders? We have zero interest in getting show dogs, but presumably that's the case for most people that get dogs. Cost isn't the primary consideration for something that will presumably spend 10 years+ with us, but 2.5k for any dog seems kind of crazy. Is there any way to find the "middle ground" breeders between puppy mills and the high-end breeders I'm finding via associations?
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Mar 4, 2017 16:50
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Labradoodles are at the stage where they are a breed in their own right but the kennel clubs have yet to recognise and ruin them. I rather suspect there is no middle ground on this one, you have the added complication of them being bred as helper dogs for the disabled which is going to take a huge number of puppies out of circulation. If you talk to people on labradoodle websites then you might find that there are older puppies who failed training going cheaper.
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Mar 4, 2017 18:51
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Residency Evil posted:Is there any way to find the "middle ground" breeders between puppy mills and the high-end breeders I'm finding via associations? For a 'designer breed' mutt dog like this, probably not. Doodles aren't usually found at shelters, so those are pretty much your options. You can look more places like FB groups or craigslist for rehomes of dogs previously purchased at breeders, but you know there's always reasons for rehomes, behavioral issues, etc. Your best bet for what you want, clean slate puppy and all, is meeting a breeder's sire/dam and getting on a waiting list.
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Mar 5, 2017 19:51
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learnincurve posted:Labradoodles are at the stage where they are a breed in their own right but the kennel clubs have yet to recognise and ruin them. I rather suspect there is no middle ground on this one, you have the added complication of them being bred as helper dogs for the disabled which is going to take a huge number of puppies out of circulation. If you talk to people on labradoodle websites then you might find that there are older puppies who failed training going cheaper. pizzadog posted:For a 'designer breed' mutt dog like this, probably not. Doodles aren't usually found at shelters, so those are pretty much your options. You can look more places like FB groups or craigslist for rehomes of dogs previously purchased at breeders, but you know there's always reasons for rehomes, behavioral issues, etc. Your best bet for what you want, clean slate puppy and all, is meeting a breeder's sire/dam and getting on a waiting list. Thanks again guys. The "cheap" dogs I've found have been ads like, say, this one: http://www.hoobly.com/yuhgd/f-labradoodle-puppies-red-apricot-family-raised-micro-chipped-lifetime-breeder-support.htm Most likely a puppy mill?
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Mar 5, 2017 20:58
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Residency Evil posted:Thanks again guys. The "cheap" dogs I've found have been ads like, say, this one: http://www.hoobly.com/yuhgd/f-labradoodle-puppies-red-apricot-family-raised-micro-chipped-lifetime-breeder-support.htm Most likely a puppy mill? Aren't you an MD? Why not spend the money to get a puppy that you know won't be crippled by hip dysplasia at age two? You're going to be stuck with this dog's genetics (both health and temperament) for over a decade.
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Mar 5, 2017 22:30
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That actually looks legit right up until they start talking about money and "we have puppies in 35 different states" and then awooga. If legit breeders can automatically get a premium price from disability groups then why would they need to advertise in the paper? It's a really odd combination of dogs to own, the only people who would really have them are people who have specifically bought them to breed. I know you have your heart set on a labradoodle but there are issues you should be aware of, temperament specifically. Second generation seem to be chilled out and loveable, first generation can have the temperament of whichever poodle it has been bred from. The premium dogs will probably be second or third generation which are the ones you want. My alternative suggestion if you like labradoodles would be an old English sheepdog who are ludicrously friendly and chilled out and have very simalar looks when groomed and personality.
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Mar 5, 2017 22:46
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Crooked Booty posted:Look at the seller's other listings. They've got 3 large litters of puppies born within 6 weeks of each other - two litters of doodles and one of Irish Setters. They're breeding multiple breeds. Parents have no health clearances or titles. There's also no way someone with 3 litters on the ground is spending much one-on-one time working with these puppies. learnincurve posted:That actually looks legit right up until they start talking about money and "we have puppies in 35 different states" and then awooga. If legit breeders can automatically get a premium price from disability groups then why would they need to advertise in the paper? It's a really odd combination of dogs to own, the only people who would really have them are people who have specifically bought them to breed. Thanks you two. The 35 states definitely made me worried, but you guys confirmed it. I think we'll talk and take a look at local breeders. We're definitely looking at an second+ generation dogs (Australian Labradoodle, I think?), but we'll also check out Old English Sheepdogs/Wheaton Terriers. Thanks for the suggestion!
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Mar 6, 2017 01:13
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Kerfuffle posted:Lmao $2000 for A Dog. pls don't dog-price shame. My $2000 dog:  such smart wow
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Mar 6, 2017 18:09
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What's the usual price tag on cockers? Got mine for £850 from a pretty respectable breeder.
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Mar 6, 2017 19:31
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I paid $1200 for my Vizsla pup from a breeder who specializes in vizslas because hey, I wanted a vizsla and I wanted a puppy without any learned habits or developed behavior issues. I wanted a specific dog for a specific purpose; a pointer used for upland bird hunting and as a hiking/backpacking partner, with high intelligence making training easier, who shows affection and loyalty towards its owner, and that has a clean short coat which is easy to maintain. They typically run smaller than other pointers like GSPs and english pointers and don't require much maintenance. Aside from the practical parts, they are beautiful dogs with a soft temperament and they always seem to have a lot of personality. He follows my wife or I around the house. His tail wagging takes over his entire body when he sees my wife or I. Thats exactly what I want when I come home from work. My breeder had up to date x-rays of each of their breeding pairs hips to ensure none of their dogs had hip displaysia and wouldn't breed a dog unless they were cleared by a trusted vet. The facility was clean and well kept and the puppies seemed to get lots of human interaction and play time. I got to see younger dogs who went home and were back months later for training (bird training and rattlesnake aversion). These people cared about their dogs. I had no problem paying them for a dog that will hopefully be in my life for the next decade. While awesome dogs can be had for free, I've seen places that undercut the average price for a given breed but their dogs are more likely to be unhealthy or born with defects. Thats not to say I don't love mutts and rescues and that they can't be just as healthy or better. Paying good money for a dog shouldn't be a bad thing, it just means that someone wants their future partner in crime to be as healthy as possible.
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Mar 6, 2017 20:48
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Sekhmet posted:pls don't dog-price shame.  $2500 worth of non-smart.
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Mar 6, 2017 21:15
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We're trying to housetrain our 9 week old King Charles puppy right now. One obstacle I've come across is that the weather here has been a bit cold/rainy for the first week of having him and he doesn't appear to like it outside very much, so when we take him out to poop/pee he will sometimes only do one, or none, before trotting back towards the door and sitting there whining to go back in for 10-15 minutes+. There have been times when he's almost certainly needed to go (proven once he's gotten back inside and subsequently wee'd in the kitchen) but prefers to go inside, and I'm not sure how long I can keep him outside in those conditions. It also doesn't help that he has had a very sensitive stomach since we got him a week ago- seemingly set off by the addition of treats- so we are trying to reintroduce them slowly and aren't able to use them for training right now. Are pieces of his dry food effective as a substitute until he's used to the treats? or will that cause more confusion than good.
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Mar 7, 2017 09:22
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You got yourself a stubborn one. Lay down on the floor and make stupid high pitched I'm exited you're exited noises instead of treats for now. When he's outside go out with him no matter the weather, take a ball or a tug toy. Watch him like a hawk inside the house, if he starts to look like he's going to pee, or even if he is peeing take him outside even if it means he piddles all over your hands. He'll soon learn that the indignity resulting from trying to go inside the house isn't worth it.
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Mar 7, 2017 09:41
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He is a little poo poo, definitely tries to get his own way a lot of the time. I should add- I wasn't putting him out in the garden and then staying inside- I'll be at the top of the garden and he'll walk back to the door and look back at me whining waiting for me to take him in. Ignoring it and staying out is fine but when he's getting wet and shivering (drama queen-ing aside) I did worry that I was doing more harm than good. Taking a toy out sounds good, keeping him entertained will no doubt help. We also need to get better with his crate- he currently doesn't like it in there, and without treats it's really hard to get him to view it as a fun/safe space.
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Mar 7, 2017 10:34
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