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CharlieWhiskey posted:I do this. I keep a log of what tires went on when and where and micromanage their rotation. It's busy work, but it keeps my money in my wallet for longer. Just keep a tread depth gauge in the center console. Quick check when mileage says time to rotate.
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Mar 3, 2017 02:02
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I'm debating using Microsoft Project (or equivalent open source software) for my projects since they're all sorta tangled together and intertwined and I get tired of trying to think what I need to do next, but honestly I'll probably just keep going with the stream-of-consciousness pastebin links/shopping list/notes in Google Keep method that I have right now. It's not the best but it does work, it's nice because I can access Keep from my cellphone app or desktop browser equally well.
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Mar 3, 2017 02:18
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MS project is poo poo.
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Mar 3, 2017 02:20
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tehk posted:How is everyone keeping track of their projects besides a white wall and a sharpie? Is there any project management type software for real life hobbyist projects? I have a spreadsheet, not for cars right now because I have too many other things going on to have any vehicular projects on the go, but I find one project per tab on an Excel sheet works well. Helps well with adding up things like expenses and expected time (days, hours) things are projected to take. Depending on the job, this may have very little basis in reality. When I've got car stuff on the go I whiteboard it in the shed and then transfer it to the 'sheet at the end of a session.
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Mar 3, 2017 02:21
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Lots of unlabeled boxes of parts that I slowly empty as I do poo poo I need to.
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Mar 3, 2017 02:35
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iPhone notes and/or google drive spreadsheets. My phone and laptop are always around when I am working on stuff.
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Mar 3, 2017 03:26
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I will try MS project thanks guys. My project is not as linear as most so the unlabeled box method like Christobevii3 was not cutting it. Right now I just make iphone notes, but that is hard to track when you get as detailed as my build. I don't know half the fittings I need until i install half the other parts and discover the previous half no longer will work. It is a chore. Hopefully some order will help especially with keeping track of specifics like part numbers for rare fittings, what hose sizes I need to order, what I am expecting special order a month out so I dont reorder, and what I plan on putting where to avoid double allocating.
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Mar 3, 2017 03:37
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edit:nevermind
2fat4sex fucked around with this message at 17:49 on Mar 3, 2017 |
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Mar 3, 2017 14:17
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I'm planning a garage build. Breaking ground is at least a year off, so it's not a thread-worthy project yet. As it stands, there's zero chance of a building permit for anything bigger than a 25m2 footprint and a 4m total hight. It's gonna be wood framed, wood paneled with a concrete tiled gable roof in order to harmonize with the surroundings. The plan for workspace optimization is to extend the slab a bit outside the human-sized door, with some type of light roof construction over it and not have a threshold in that doorframe, so things on wheels can be rolled in and out as needed to make more room temporarily. My AI stupid question relates to the roof trusses: if they're gonna be wood, and up to code (snow load) they will probably look something like this drawing I made. It looks like I'll get a bit over 1,8 m between the bottom of a large-ish car and the floor - is this a useful maximum height to lift a car, or should I look into some other (I assume more complicated and expensive) roof ideas to get more vertical clearance? Any other suggestions or critique is welcome, obviously. It's a small garage or no garage at all, and I'd like it to be as useful/good as possible. 
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Mar 3, 2017 16:40
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make sure you've got the bonnet closed before you put the car in the air
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Mar 3, 2017 16:44
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TheReverend posted:Can anyone tell me when to change the ATF on a 2010 Prius? The maintenance schedule says nothing..... I changed mine at 30k. It was a bit smelly and dark colored. Probably manufacturing debris. It's just Toyota WS ATF in there. There's a drain plug on the bottom and fill plug on the lower part of the differential. There's no shifting, no friction bands, and no combustion inside a Prius transmission. It probably does not need to be changed that often, but I am in the habit of changing that often from my older car.
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Mar 3, 2017 16:49
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Invalido posted:I'm planning a garage build. Breaking ground is at least a year off, so it's not a thread-worthy project yet. I'd say try for a gambrel roof. It's a self supporting design that can be reinforced with an A frame type thing too if necessary but either way you get loads more space that way. It should have no problem with snow loading.
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Mar 3, 2017 20:23
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tehk posted:I will try MS project thanks guys. My project is not as linear as most so the unlabeled box method like Christobevii3 was not cutting it. Right now I just make iphone notes, but that is hard to track when you get as detailed as my build. I don't know half the fittings I need until i install half the other parts and discover the previous half no longer will work. It is a chore. Hopefully some order will help especially with keeping track of specifics like part numbers for rare fittings, what hose sizes I need to order, what I am expecting special order a month out so I dont reorder, and what I plan on putting where to avoid double allocating. I'm a huge fan of the web app Workflowy, it's basically a bulleted list but each bullet can keep expanding into its own list. Tough to explain but watch a quick YouTube video and see if it appeals to you.
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Mar 3, 2017 22:19
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Invalido posted:I'm planning a garage build. Breaking ground is at least a year off, so it's not a thread-worthy project yet. I have a pair of maxjax. Here is a photo at around 6 inches lower than max lift since I don't have the truck pads on the lift arms(since the car was low). You can use a ramp to use the truck pads and gain another 5 inches. I went with this lift due to my loft. It is comfortable to work under on a garage stool, and lifts normal cars to the ceiling. I would suggest getting a lift even if your ceiling is a issue. They make longer extensions as well so if you have a convertible in the shop you can raise it another 4" with the upgraded truck pads. As a bonus they have wheels and are removable by 4 threaded anchors that you can pop the bolts out of in minutes. A definate plus if you wanted to keep them in the closet or the back and gain side to side room. 
tehk fucked around with this message at 23:20 on Mar 3, 2017 |
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Mar 3, 2017 23:18
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Hello! I have a stupid question ahead. Recently I had some front end damage to the bumper cover and grille. I had the bumper cover replaced with a used one, and I got it resprayed. The color is ever so slightly off after the shop resprayed it because they did not blend in any nearby panels, which is whatever I guess. However, I noticed that the gap between the hood and the bumper cover isn't exactly flush. It's not the worst thing ever, but am I in a position where I can ask the shop take a look at it? Or should I suck it up because welp there was front end damage and it'll never be the same etc. Here is the uneven gap, fairly visible in this photo.  edit: I just noticed how distinguishable the difference in paint color is in this photo. Yikes. ass fucked around with this message at 16:18 on Mar 4, 2017 |
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Mar 4, 2017 16:14
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There are plastic snap rivet fasteners that secure that panel all around the perimeter where it meets metal; either the snaps along the radiator support aren't fully seated, or the rad support is bent...or the cover was deformed on whatever car it came from, and it sorta set like that. If the fasteners & rad support look good, and it's just sorta bulging in that spot, try playing a hair dryer (takes forever) or heat gun (much faster, but start further away, move it around a lot faster, & watch your rear end) over the area & see if heating it up gets it to relax back into the proper shape.
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Mar 4, 2017 16:27
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PainterofCrap posted:There are plastic snap rivet fasteners that secure that panel all around the perimeter where it meets metal; either the snaps along the radiator support aren't fully seated, or the rad support is bent...or the cover was deformed on whatever car it came from, and it sorta set like that. Yeah I was thinking it could be just that the bumper cover itself was hosed, considering it DID come off another car, which is why I was hesitant about asking the shop to take a look at it. I know for sure that something was bent and they had to pull it back in shape but I didn't really ask what it was. It very well could be the radiator support (considering that the grille ate the entire hit, after all). Guess I have a good enough excuse to have the shop take a look at it, huh?
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Mar 4, 2017 16:38
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2009 WRX hatch. Bought 4 new tires in Oct 16 from tire rack. Got a flat that was irreparable in Jan 17. Tire shop said tread wear was effectively null as the tires were so new, so I got one new tire from Tire rack under the road hazard warranty. Now 1 month later, that new tire also has a irreparable puncture. The other three tires have maybe 2k miles on them, just want to make sure that this is low enough miles to be not an issue and I am not doing something dangerous. The tires are BFG Comp 2 A/S.
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Mar 4, 2017 16:43
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2k doesn't sound like much, but if you're worried about it, get a tread depth gauge from napa or autozone. They're a couple bucks and super handy to have around for rotations. Compare to new spec.
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Mar 4, 2017 18:18
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rear end posted:Hello! I have a stupid question ahead. If it helps, I looked at the picture before reading your post and didn't notice anything. Even after reading your post, I still have to look for it. On a scale where 1 is notice and 5 is did not notice, here is everybody: 1 you 2 Dodge Charger enthusiasts 3 Mopar enthusiasts 4 American car guys 5 the other 7 billion people on earth Not saying you shouldn't press the shop to do the right thing if it's their fault, but just know it is most perceptible to you and nearly imperceptible to most.
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Mar 4, 2017 22:02
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CharlieWhiskey posted:If it helps, I looked at the picture before reading your post and didn't notice anything. Even after reading your post, I still have to look for it. On a scale where 1 is notice and 5 is did not notice, here is everybody: WHAT ARE YOU TRYING TO SAY I mean, drat SON 
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Mar 4, 2017 22:26
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I just bought a 2005 ford crown victoria (78,000 miles). Check engine light turned on today code P0430 - catalyst system efficiency below threshold (bank 2). I don't know poo poo about cars but a google search tells me that issues in this area are very expensive. I do not live in a state with emissions tests. Is this something i need to have fixed?
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Mar 4, 2017 22:38
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curiosity hosed me up posted:I just bought a 2005 ford crown victoria (78,000 miles). Check engine light turned on today code P0430 - catalyst system efficiency below threshold (bank 2). I don't know poo poo about cars but a google search tells me that issues in this area are very expensive. I do not live in a state with emissions tests. Is this something i need to have fixed? Google says to check for exhaust leaks, then move to o2 sensor and then the catalytic converter. Personally I would just keep driving it until rough idle symptom started unless the o2 sensor is really cheap for that car and not rusted to poo poo.
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Mar 4, 2017 23:25
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Breakfast Feud posted:Google says to check for exhaust leaks, then move to o2 sensor and then the catalytic converter. Personally I would just keep driving it until rough idle symptom started unless the o2 sensor is really cheap for that car and not rusted to poo poo. I paid to have it inspected before i bought it so maybe it is just a bad sensor. The report said everything was fine with the exhaust system. Is this something they should have caught? Thanks for your response btw
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Mar 5, 2017 00:09
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curiosity hosed me up posted:I paid to have it inspected before i bought it so maybe it is just a bad sensor. The report said everything was fine with the exhaust system. Is this something they should have caught? No problem, and it really depends on the shop. I've had places that just check all the checkmarks off the sheet and take your money. Easy way to find exhaust leaks is to grab a flashlight and turn the car on, then point the beam along the length of the exhaust pipe. Should be able to tell pretty quick if there is exhaust gas coming out of somewhere. Realistically a bad sensor is probably the most likely culprit. If it's possible you can remove it and see how dirty it is and maybe clean it?
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Mar 5, 2017 00:35
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curiosity hosed me up posted:I just bought a 2005 ford crown victoria (78,000 miles). Check engine light turned on today code P0430 - catalyst system efficiency below threshold (bank 2). I don't know poo poo about cars but a google search tells me that issues in this area are very expensive. I do not live in a state with emissions tests. Is this something i need to have fixed? Not to scare u Crown vice are nitrous for misfires. Is it a possibility it was missfireing it's rear end off for a while and then they threw a coil in there to fix the misfire before selling it and the convertor is already melted down? Pro tip. If u have a laser thermometer you can see if there is a drastic temperature increase between the beginning of the convertor and the end. If it's heating up its working. If it's hot as hell at the begining and way cooler afterwards it's plugged. If it seams to be working then you should take it to a shop and shell out some diagnostic money to see if your 02s are working and if there are any other pending or history codes.
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Mar 5, 2017 01:13
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How would I go about looking up parts for a Japanese Toyota? I have a new Prius C and in America no roof rails from Toyota. But in Asia they released a "X Urban" version that comes with add on roof rails. Google gets me nowhere. (Prius C called the Aqua there).
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Mar 5, 2017 02:56
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Hey guys, I've been driving a $700 2001 Subaru Outback 2.5L around for a few months now as a winter beater. It has its share of bumps and bruises, the main thing being the power steering squealing at slow speed and a slow oil leak out of (all?) of the gaskets/seals. Frankly I haven't looked at it that closely yet besides maintaining the oil level. The car has been hesitant to rev up in first gear from a stop, and I usually have to baby it up to 2500, where it will shift into second and will rev all the way through the other gears (up to 4 or 5k) just fine. Anyway. I had a big problem with it today. I pulled out onto a major street from a parking lot, and had to do it quickly to avoid traffic. Trying to give it the beans from a stop led to it popping maybe backfire, maybe afterfire? three or four times and it lugging really hard, but I successfully merged into traffic. A few blocks later I noticed that even with my foot off the accelerator the car was idling higgh at about 2000 RPM, and when I pulled up to a red light, it was fighting the brake really hard. I thought I should shift it into neutral, and when I did, the car immediately revved up all the way to the redline. I threw it in park and turned off the ignition until the green light. Started it back up; it tried to hit 7000 again in park but I shifted it into drive and kinda chirped the tires but it was back at idling at 2000 without any throttle input. I got to the nearest parallel parking spot I could slide into without backing and shut it off. As I was doing that, I hesitated putting it in park and it flew up to 7000rpm in park and smoked a bit I figure this was just the oil leak being exacerbated by running at full tilt. Opened up the hood and had my partner depress the gas pedal the throttle linkage was moving correctly and smoothly and returning to its initial position it's not a stuck spring or something. With the handbrake on, two feet hard on the brake, and the wheels turned hard into the curb so I didn't go anywhere, we turned the car on briefly and shifted it into drive it was at 2000 or so again and moving with my hand the lever the throttle cable pulls on the throttle body it did cause the car to rev up as expected (and it lurched a bit into the curb). Shut it off again and had it towed to some mechanics my family has used over the years, but they are closed for the weekend. As I said, this is a winter beater and I got it extremely inexpensively, so I'm not expecting a miracle here. However, I can't figure out what the hell would produce this failure mode. Do you think the backfire broke off some, but not all of the throttle butterfly (or whatever that valve/damper is called) and it's letting air/fuel in regardless? I think that could explain why it would immediately rev up to redline when not connected to the drivetrain but would only run faster than idle when it has to actually drive the wheels. Is there some other part that could be busted in the throttle body? Would it be something entirely different (something in the engine itself?) How much in parts do you think it would cost to fix it, if so? Sorry for the wall of text, but wanted to provide as much info as I could think of.
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Mar 5, 2017 03:08
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First thing I'd do is pop the intake tube off the throttle body and look at the butterfly, and make sure it moves properly when you tug the cable.
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Mar 5, 2017 03:28
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everdave posted:How would I go about looking up parts for a Japanese Toyota? I have a new Prius C and in America no roof rails from Toyota. But in Asia they released a "X Urban" version that comes with add on roof rails. Google gets me nowhere. (Prius C called the Aqua there). Go forward with the model code NHP10R (NHP10 is for the 2011-2014) and remember that it's called the Aqua in Japan, but still Prius C in Australia. There's no european version of the car because they get the Yaris Hybrid there. Googling just the model code may get you more hits. I found the OEM toyota vent visors and the slotted G's rear spoiler this way through ebay.
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Mar 5, 2017 04:33
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0toShifty posted:Go forward with the model code NHP10R (NHP10 is for the 2011-2014) and remember that it's called the Aqua in Japan, but still Prius C in Australia. There's no european version of the car because they get the Yaris Hybrid there. By banging down further and further when I got it I found cool Aqua aftermarket stuff (interior accessories) finally at dirt cheap prices through Amazon Japan and eBay Japan (5 times the price through us sites). Anyone know if US DEALERS can look up JDM parts? Back in the old days I had a 77 Toyota pickup and it wasn't a problem ordering parts from Japan through the dealer and this was 20 years ago Seriously thanks for that model code all my research and forums did not know that everdave fucked around with this message at 06:40 on Mar 5, 2017 |
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Mar 5, 2017 06:36
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bennyfactor posted:Hey guys, I've been driving a $700 2001 Subaru Outback 2.5L around for a few months now as a winter beater. That sounds like a wicked vacuum leak, but I don't know subarus very well so I don't have a suggestion for where to start looking.
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Mar 5, 2017 10:23
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More Jimmy problems... I just need to junk this piece of poo poo. Anyway, I only have DRLs now. No high or low beam. Taillights still work. Right before I discovered this issue a relay in the glove compartment was going loving crazy. Think it's that relay or the circuit breaker?
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Mar 5, 2017 18:41
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Bennyfactor, that sounds like a bad vacuum leak or iacv issue, possibly combined with an engine management system/sensor/actuator issue. Is the check engine light on?
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Mar 5, 2017 18:44
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kastein posted:Bennyfactor, that sounds like a bad vacuum leak or iacv issue, possibly combined with an engine management system/sensor/actuator issue. Is the check engine light on? Yeah. It's got a code for intermittent misfire and cylinder 4 misfire, but I expected that from the bogging down/backfire that happened before the uncommanded revving situation. It has done the misfire stuff a couple times before when I attempted to get it going fast from a standstill, but after clearing the codes and avoiding giving it the beans at a stop, that issue hadn't recurred until yesterday.
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Mar 5, 2017 20:55
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2004 Dodge SRT4 Is this orange goop coming out the side of my engine something I should be concerned about?   Thanks for any info.
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Mar 6, 2017 04:24
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A very recent valve cover gasket job with very liberal use of sillicone liquid gasket. It's probably ok?
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Mar 6, 2017 04:35
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Woops
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Mar 6, 2017 04:38
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Preoptopus posted:A very recent valve cover gasket job with very liberal use of sillicone liquid gasket. It's probably ok? Thanks for the quick response dude.
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Mar 6, 2017 04:39
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2006 Focus hatchback, black. When I turn the key to accessory, I hear a disconcerting grinding/gurgling noise from under my backseat. When I start the car, it cranks for longer than it should. Fuel pump, correct? I just noticed this yesterday. How long do I have before it strands me somewhere? The closest thing I have to a regular mechanic is my tire-and-oil-changes place, so I need to grab some quotes and all that. Anyone have a ballpark for what this will cost me in Michigan?
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Mar 6, 2017 05:39
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